F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

4 years ago



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There are 3478 posts in this topic. You are on page 64 of 70.
#3151 6 months ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Remember to use warm white lights if under a colored insert if you want to maintain accurate insert color. Also be sure to use warm white frosted above play field if it is really exposed to your eyes. Cool white is hard on my eyes unless under an insert or hidden from direct view. I also recommend using warm white flashers (if you’re going with led flashers you need to remove warming resistors). Warm white looks like incandescent bulbs. Of course blue frosted GI looks great under blue plastics and red and blue leds look great under same color inserts. Comet is good! You will def get ghosting if not using a led controller, so if not, get non ghosting leds for all cpu controlled lights. You have to decide before dropping the cash.

I agree with most of this but if your blue arrow inserts are faded like many are on F14 some blue LEDs will bring it right back to life.

#3152 6 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I agree with most of this but if your blue arrow inserts are faded like many are on F14 some blue LEDs will bring it right back to life.

Yes, I used blue and red leds under the arrow inserts on my new repro play field and they look awesome and they weren’t even faded. I did use warm white for all the amber inserts and most white inserts. I used cool white under some white inserts to add some variety and used purple under the three kill lights.

#3153 6 months ago

Here's mine done up entirely with warm white frosted non-ghosting (save the lock and landing ones that would've had rubbers originally) from Pinballbulbs. I kept the flashers incandescent since LED flashers look like crap and it would've been extra effort to switch them in besides.

In the process of doing Big Guns the same way, will be nice to ditch the bad color coordination job someone did in the backbox before I got it...

#3154 6 months ago

Nice. I just put my order in for LEDs yesterday. I will be getting mine from Comet. I used a diagram from the owners manual and excel to figure out and keep track of which bulbs i ordered. See below for all the bulbs I got for the PF inserts. I just got a bulk pack of white LED for the GI bulbs.

F14 Playfield Bulbs.pdf

#3155 6 months ago
Quoted from stumptown:

Here's mine done up entirely with warm white frosted non-ghosting (save the lock and landing ones that would've had rubbers originally) from Pinballbulbs. I kept the flashers incandescent since LED flashers look like crap and it would've been extra effort to switch them in besides.
» YouTube video
In the process of doing Big Guns the same way, will be nice to ditch the bad color coordination job someone did in the backbox before I got it...

I don't know how you can say LED flashers look like crap? I used warm white as well as red and blue Super 5's by Cointaker and warm white 8-smd flat flashers in back box and red 8-smd in back wall, and they look just as good if not better than incandescent IMO. With LED flashers you can have the various colors. Perhaps you witnessed crappy quality flashers? Plus, on F-14, you can remove all those problematic warming resistors which like to desolder themselves and break loose. And reduce the amp draw on your wiring harness. It took me like 10 min to remove warming resistors. But, what ever blows your hair back.

#3156 6 months ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I don't know how you can say LED flashers look like crap? I used warm white as well as red and blue Super 5's by Cointaker and warm white 8-smd flat flashers in back box and red 8-smd in back wall, and they look just as good if not better than incandescent IMO. With LED flashers you can have the various colors. Perhaps you witnessed crappy quality flashers? Plus, on F-14, you can remove all those problematic warming resistors which like to desolder themselves and break loose. And reduce the amp draw on your wiring harness. It took me like 10 min to remove warming resistors. But, what ever blows your hair back.

They're overpoweringly bright and cast harsher shadows (same reason a lot of people don't like LED street lamps). I've run them in other tables and pulled them out again in favor of going back to incandescents. Can't imagine running them in a game like F-14 that is already extremely bright to begin with. If someone came out with a diffused flasher I might take another shot at them, but the bare LED stacks are just painful to look at. That said, different strokes... It's ultimately a matter of taste and opinion.

#3157 6 months ago

Hmm good point.. maybe I can make some.frosted type of cap to go over the flasher...

#3158 6 months ago
Quoted from CoitusMysterioso:

Nice. I just put my order in for LEDs yesterday. I will be getting mine from Comet.

I “Cometed” my F-14 a couple of times over. I started with a full set of their retro bright bulbs and finally ended up with my now favorite bulb in nearly every socket. The two-SMD fluted dome bulbs color coordinated to the inserts with yellow bulbs under the amber inserts (again, my preference after trying all the amber insert lighting options). I used them everywhere except under the white inserts where the retro LEDs looked better to me. Also, I’ve had zero issues with ghosting on the lamp matrix as warned about on Comet’s website.

I’d also highly recommend buying some red and blue silicone condoms for the exposed bulbs for the lock and land lights.

#3159 6 months ago
Quoted from stumptown:

They're overpoweringly bright and cast harsher shadows (same reason a lot of people don't like LED street lamps). I've run them in other tables and pulled them out again in favor of going back to incandescents. Can't imagine running them in a game like F-14 that is already extremely bright to begin with. If someone came out with a diffused flasher I might take another shot at them, but the bare LED stacks are just painful to look at. That said, different strokes... It's ultimately a matter of taste and opinion.

This is why I use Warm White flashers. The cool whites are blinding as you have stated. I see no real difference between Warm white flashers and incandescent ones. Also colored flashers with colored covers are not any more blinding either. At least not to me.

#3160 6 months ago

I guess I need to put back together.

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#3161 6 months ago

Really nice, this is the best part of restoration - have fun.

#3162 6 months ago

The switch for the left gate is all warped and locks the gate in the up position. Manual says it's part of an A-11550 assembly. I can only find that at Marco's and they are out of stock. I only need the switch, so anyone know what switch I need?

#3163 6 months ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Has anyone tried the Retrobright process to brighten/clean the domes? I would assume since there isn't any screening that would clean them up pretty well. Mine smelled strongly of smoke and the center beacon especially shows it. I'd love to take it off and brighten it up down the road.

Yes, I did. It helped but it was not a drastic change. I tried twice but it still remained yellow. It's not like old NES plastic that has just discoloured. It's nicotine that has rooted itself into the plastic. Makes you wonder about your lungs. I eventually ended up buying a new clear dome.

#3164 5 months ago

OK I got all most of the little problems on my other pins taken care of so I'm now ready to get my F14 back up and running.

I'm having issues with my flashers and back box lights.most of my back box lights are out and some of the flashers most notably most of the ones along the back of the playfield,not all of them but some are not working and also the ones in the big round center insert in front of the kill targets lock on.game still seems to play fine but I haven't left it on very long as when it first did it it blew a fuse and if I turn it on the new fuse gets warm quick.I had a tech out working on some other games but he didn't know to much on system 11's but he did test some of the transistors and found no problem but said this piece was getting hotter than it should.

20180327_134040 (resized).jpg

#3165 5 months ago

Note that the center flasher does turn off for a split second when launching a ball but locks back on.I made a video but don't know how to post it.

#3166 5 months ago

Couple crappy pics.2nd is just turning the game on and 1st is after starting with the lights locked on blinding you and shows the lights out in the backbox.

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#3167 5 months ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

also the ones in the big round center insert in front of the kill targets lock on

This is solenoid #8c.

Quoted from Puffdanny:Note that the center flasher does turn off for a split second when launching a ball but locks back on.

This is because the A/C relay switched to the a side to fire coils. Solenoid 8c is controlled by Q-22, turn off power and with 1J11 disconnected measure ohms from ground to the metal tab of Q-22. A low ohm reading would indicate a shorted transistor.

#3168 5 months ago

1.772

#3169 5 months ago

That is the one I tracked it down to myself and then so did the tech that came out.he tested it then and said it was good and I did a few minutes ago myself and have no clue if 1.772 is low or not.I've also been having an issue with WW I thought I resolved but apparently not so I'll be posting over there again.

#3170 5 months ago

1.772 meg ohm is good. Now turn on power and repeat the same test.

#3171 5 months ago

About the same with 1.8

#3172 5 months ago

It seems it goes to 0 when a game is started.I'll verify tonight when I have a helper that can turn it on and start a game for me while I'm doing a reading

#3173 5 months ago

Well, just joined the club. I was able to pick one up that is partially restored. Very nice game with a redone cabinet and repro playfield. Needs some sorting however.

1. One flasher is out. I've tracked down two others (pesky System 11 resistors) already.
2. It has a Pinscore system but extra segments are lit. Resetting ribbon cable didn't fix it but moving cable alters display. New cable ordered.
3. Inside of cabinet is dirty and stained. Needs a good sand job and some cleaner.
4. Has a mish-mash of incandescent and LED lights. In need of a nice Coin Taker kit. Opinions on going warm white for backbox and white inserts instead of bright white? The translite just looks washed out with the bright white. I certainly want to avoid the TNT F14 rainbow puke show as well.
5. Later game missing the two flashers above TOM and CAT. Definitely need to put this mod on the schedule.
6. Coin door needs a rebuild and a finish job. Inside of coin door is pretty much mint. Skin needs some love.

Game play couldn't be better. It seems sorted very well and plays brutally fast with this new playfield.

We will see how long it stays around, but it's growing on my family pretty fast!

F14 (resized).jpg

#3174 5 months ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

It seems it goes to 0 when a game is started.

Then you have a logic problem, Maybe U-28 or U-38. Has there been any corrosion damage on the board?

#3175 5 months ago

I'll check for corrosion tonight but never noticed any.how do I check u28 and u38?

#3177 5 months ago

Ordered.I might as well ask now how to check u28 and u38 so I can do it as soon as it arrives.and what kind of reading should I be looking for?

#3178 5 months ago

Board looks corrosion free to me

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#3179 5 months ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Board looks corrosion free to me

To keep it that way, I would invest in a remote battery pack at least.

#3180 5 months ago

just tbought i would share some pictures and here's my tomcat . With some led frosted lights in GI .

20180329_181105 (resized).jpg

#3181 5 months ago

Looking good.
Why do your right chevrons appear purple/white, instead of blue?

#3182 5 months ago
Quoted from RonSS:

Looking good.
Why do your right chevrons appear purple/white, instead of blue?

Sometimes the blue fades out of plastics. I have a blue flasher dome that's pretty well transparent in my Space Station.

#3183 5 months ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Sometimes the blue fades out of plastics.

Blue LED's will make those look good again.

#3184 5 months ago

Mine were completely washed out. Blue leds sorted them.

F7524E73-CB41-41F3-AAB8-0DEEC69B7C94 (resized).jpeg

#3185 5 months ago

Wow that was fast my logic probe is already here.so how do I test these things?

#3186 5 months ago

Can anyone help me out with a left slingshot plastic?

That's the only plastic I need as someone decided a Pinbot one would look ok instead of awesome fighter planes.

Would consider a non perfect one depending on price. Thanks!

#3187 5 months ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Wow that was fast my logic probe is already here.so how do I test these things?

If you look at page 2 of 4 of the CPU schematics you will see that U-19 controls Q-18 and Q-22. U-19 has 2 inputs and 1 output. Connect the logic probe to the CPU board 5volt and ground test points and set it to TTL level. Turn on the power and check pin 6. In attract mode pin 6 should be low, pin 4 is the blanking signal and should be high whenever the CPU board boots correctly. Pin 5 comes from U-28 and is what turns on the flashers when the programing tells it to. Pin 5 should be low in attract mode. If you find that pin 5 is low and pin 6 is high then U-19 is bad. If pin 5 is high then you will need to test U-28.

#3188 5 months ago

Good day folks.

Question is there a way to lower the default high scores on F-14 Tomcat? I want my kids to be able to compete against each other and get excited about entering their initials but the default high scores start around 3,500,000 points and that's just not realistic for them at the moment.

#3189 5 months ago
Quoted from CoitusMysterioso:

Good day folks.
Question is there a way to lower the default high scores on F-14 Tomcat? I want my kids to be able to compete against each other and get excited about entering their initials but the default high scores start around 3,500,000 points and that's just not realistic for them at the moment.

Yes. Head in to the settings, you're looking for the backup high scores, adjustment numbers 14, 15, 16, 17. Set those really low (maybe 0?) and save and then reset teh high scores.

I usually turn off the reset after X plays setting too (22).

#3190 5 months ago

Thank you very much ajfclark that worked great! Not sure how i missed that in the manual before but once i looked for the term "backup" i found what you were talking about.

Thanks again much appreciated!

Quoted from ajfclark:

Yes. Head in to the settings, you're looking for the backup high scores, adjustment numbers 14, 15, 16, 17. Set those really low (maybe 0?) and save and then reset teh high scores.
I usually turn off the reset after X plays setting too (22).

#3191 5 months ago

OK I found U19 and the 2 test points to connect the logic probe but how are the pins numbered? Am I checking the top row or bottom? And does #1 start on the left or right?

Screenshot_2018-04-01-10-49-56 (resized).jpg

#3192 5 months ago

085432e5227146db32239ae2ae4919d3 (resized).png

#3193 5 months ago

The pins are numbered anti-clockwise around the IC (chip) starting near the notch or dot. The diagrams show the numbering for 8-pin and 14-pin ICs, but the principle is the same for all sizes.

icpins (resized).png

#3194 5 months ago

You beat me to it Grump. I shall stay out of your way!

#3195 5 months ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

You beat me to it Grump. I shall stay out of your way!

Jump on in the water is fine.

#3196 5 months ago

I think I got it I can see the trace from the one I labeled 5 going to u28

Screenshot_2018-04-01-13-53-38 (resized).jpg

#3197 5 months ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

I think I got it

So what does pins 4,5 and 6 read in attract mode.

#3198 5 months ago

I'll check when I get home I'm going off pictures I took last night

#3199 5 months ago

4 is high 5 and 6 are low

#3200 5 months ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

4 is high 5 and 6 are low

Sounds good. Now check continuity from pin 6 to the middle leg of Q-18.

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