The ball popper switch does work and registers with a ball in it during the switch edges test.

Was this switch replaced when you did the p/f swap? If not did you clean the contacts with a new dollar bill?

I did not replace the switch, nor did I clean it with a bill. However, the switch seems to work at all other times during gameplay. I locked at least one of the other balls that way.

If this is the only time the switch doesn't work then there maybe a switch matrix problem or a ROM problem.

I don't think there's anything left! From my perspective, I've got a bubbling mylar with lifted inserts having no ink left. Seller (2nd owner ) attempted to pass it off as HUO. Uh huh. Maybe that paste is for the glue left over?

Seems that way. Is there a good way to track that down? This is my first time stepping through that kind of problem.

Start with the simple things first, clean the switch contacts. If that doesn't help then it maybe a switch matrix problem which are not easy to find because it usually a combination of switches to cause the issue. You must make sure you don't have any stuck closed switches by removal all the balls and check switch test for any closed switches. If that is good then test the diodes on the 4 switches that are involved in the multiball. Make sure that the diodes are facing the correct direction. Was there any wires that were removed from switches during the swap, always a good place to start.

No closed switches in test. Diodes all facing the correct way, and all wiring is good. I'll have to check the diodes next. All switches and coils function normally until that moment during multi ball release, so I think the diodes are probably fine. I'm guessing it's a board/ROM issue.

GRUMPY any suggestions for me? Or should I have our local tech guru check it out when I get him over to update the code on my rfm?

Most switch matrix problems come from a couple of shorted diodes, so unless you test them with a DMM you wont know.

Have you tested F-2 and F-4 on the power supply?

Probably been covered a million times, but just double checking- I have to pull up one leg of the diode prior to testing, correct?

Remove 1J8 and 1J10 from the CPU board, remove the 4 balls. Now all switches are open and wires disconnected you should be able to test without lifting a leg.

No sir but I will now.

Both should be 4 amp slow blow.

OK then fuses,yes I pulled every fuse but I'm on my way home and I will double check.

Well f2 which I swear i checked was blown and the wrong fuse.I'll recheck the rest and make sure the rest are the proper fuse.I can now start a game and some of the things that were not working are and maybe all,I didn't play long enough to find out as I noticed there's some light bulb issues so I turned it off.I did notice f2 in that minute or 2 seemed to be warming up and the other 3 right there weren't. Is it normal for it to get warm?my instinct says something wasn't right but there is current running through it.I'll poke around a little more and report back if needed in a couple days with what the lights are doing.

All 4 of the diodes involved in the issue I'm having tested fine.

That's the trouble with switch matrix problems, it's not the switch that causes the problem it's another switch somewhere else that's bad and when the two of them are closed together it causes a problem.

The only closed switches in the game at the time of the issue are the 4 I tested(the 3 locked balls and the 1 in the upkicker hole). No other switches would be closed then. Should I just check every diode in the game? Is there a way to narrow it down?

Correct, but could you have hit a flipper switch (l/r lane change switch).

Very nice video. I've never had a switch matrix problem and I've owned my machines for about a decade. Learning something new!

So, a switch matrix problem could show up in the switch test as a false closed if I close the right combination of switches. Is that correct? Since I know where the game is still playing well (3 balls locked), I could close those three and then one by one close the others in same row and see what happens(open them if they're normally closed)? I believe both EOS switches are in those rows, so that where my suspicion is now.

Yes. This can also be reproduced with the playfield disconnected. You can use 2 new connectors and add jumpers across the connectors to simulate the 3 closed switches and see if it drains the balls. Then you would know if it's a pf problem or not.

I have also seen battery alkaline run down the board and and cause troubles with J-8 and a cracked SRC -6 cause many problems.

I found a bad diode on the ball shooter lane, which is the same row as the ball popper on the switch matrix. Replaced it and it seems to have solved the problem!

I played a bunch of games and did some testing by hand as well. At one point it did put two balls in the shooter lane, so I'll have to see if I can recreate that problem and tackle that next.
For now, I'm excited to have solved the ball popper issue.
Thanks grumpy!

Nice find!!

This can be a trough switch, do you have any pink connectors on the switches, if so cut them off and solder the wire direct to the switch tab.

Playball!

Hi All,

I have my used PF up in the classified section from my recent PF swap. Not perfect by any means, but if yours is trashed this is maybe a reasonable alternative, especially with a little TLC..

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/57479

Hell yes!
That thing is light years better condition than mine was.

Rotten dog cpu, newly rebuilt power supply. PS works fine was tested in a pinbot for plenty of time. Here is my ?
No display or sound will not coin up. +5 volt light stays on as well as PIA.
The pf is not in but should still be able to do some testing and display should work.
Any suggestions?

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Just curious what a person does if the backbox light board isn't in the greatest shape. Do you go ahead and use it if it works or would you replace the board somehow? Thanks

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If it is structurally sound, I'd give it a fresh coat of white paint on the front and call it a day!

Don't look too bad, do as Freeplay40 suggests and give it a paint job. I use semigloss white.

I don't paint anymore, I use white glossy decal in all of my Pinball Machines - same material used on front of kitchen doors.
The light behind the translite then shines in very nice colors without hard edges.
It just need some time to cut out all the holes, but can be done in an hour.
Another advantage is that the board is very easy and quick to clean without scrawl.

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Good tip on the gloss decals - can be applied to any game!

So I may be looking into one of these and heard that a light effrct or two may be noy working correctly snf this is dur tk the cement block resistor board, sys11 in the lower rear of the main cab?
Anyone had this problem before? I believe the lamps work and I know f14 has dome swanky effects as I play it alot in the electronic video game, the pinball arcade.

Yep just as freeplay says. That’s how I did mine!

So if you are running flasher 3c, 3c doesn't light but 1c and 5c both light instead. Is this correct?

Yes, if there is 2 bulbs on the circuit and 1 is led and the other is incandescent no harm no foul. If only 1 bulb then the warming resistor or ground wire needs to be removed from the flasher board for this circuit for the led to work properly.

Switched or controlled no problem with leds if you remove the warming resistor or ground wire for the circuit you are installing leds.

Remember each flasher board is 2 circuits, and not all of the circuits are being used.

Has anybody had their bottom 2 displays not work? How did you go about repairing this or did you have to order a whole new display? I tried resetting the cables with no luck. Thank you

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Yes.

I start by checking the output of 1J3 of the cpu board with a logic probe.

Thanks... pm sent

Just joined the club. Came super clean and no raised inserts!!
Been playing f14 on my phone non stop for weeks!

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Congrats ! I'll have to come over and check it out sometime.

Wondering what may be causing new incandescent light bulbs to burn out in the blue (right) beacon after it comes on 2-3 times? Thanks.

That's a 26v circuit, isn't it? Are you using the right bulbs? The manual says #1683 (eg http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-1683 )

Pretty sure a #89 will fit in the socket as they're both BA15s, but as it's a 12v bulb it'll be really bright and then blow. #89 only work as flashers at 24v because they are only on such a short time, as soon as they are on for a while, they'll fail. Same deal if you put #89s where the manual calls for #1531s on my Space Station:
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