(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 9 days ago by northvibe
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There are 4072 posts in this topic. You are on page 60 of 82.
#2951 2 years ago

The ball popper switch does work and registers with a ball in it during the switch edges test.

#2952 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

The ball popper switch does work and registers with a ball in it during the switch edges test.

Was this switch replaced when you did the p/f swap? If not did you clean the contacts with a new dollar bill?

#2953 2 years ago

I did not replace the switch, nor did I clean it with a bill. However, the switch seems to work at all other times during gameplay. I locked at least one of the other balls that way.

#2954 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

However, the switch seems to work at all other times during gameplay.

If this is the only time the switch doesn't work then there maybe a switch matrix problem or a ROM problem.

#2955 2 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

I thought I read to use a paste of IPA and flour to clean up the inserts?

I don't think there's anything left! From my perspective, I've got a bubbling mylar with lifted inserts having no ink left. Seller (2nd owner ) attempted to pass it off as HUO. Uh huh. Maybe that paste is for the glue left over?

#2956 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

If this is the only time the switch doesn't work then there maybe a switch matrix problem or a ROM problem.

Seems that way. Is there a good way to track that down? This is my first time stepping through that kind of problem.

#2957 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Seems that way. Is there a good way to track that down? This is my first time stepping through that kind of problem.

Start with the simple things first, clean the switch contacts. If that doesn't help then it maybe a switch matrix problem which are not easy to find because it usually a combination of switches to cause the issue. You must make sure you don't have any stuck closed switches by removal all the balls and check switch test for any closed switches. If that is good then test the diodes on the 4 switches that are involved in the multiball. Make sure that the diodes are facing the correct direction. Was there any wires that were removed from switches during the swap, always a good place to start.

#2958 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Start with the simple things first, clean the switch contacts. If that doesn't help then it maybe a switch matrix problem which are not easy to find because it usually a combination of switches to cause the issue. You must make sure you don't have any stuck closed switches by removal all the balls and check switch test for any closed switches. If that is good then test the diodes on the 4 switches that are involved in the multiball. Make sure that the diodes are facing the correct direction. Was there any wires that were removed from switches during the swap, always a good place to start.

No closed switches in test. Diodes all facing the correct way, and all wiring is good. I'll have to check the diodes next. All switches and coils function normally until that moment during multi ball release, so I think the diodes are probably fine. I'm guessing it's a board/ROM issue.

#2959 2 years ago

grumpy any suggestions for me? Or should I have our local tech guru check it out when I get him over to update the code on my rfm?

#2960 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

so I think the diodes are probably fine.

Most switch matrix problems come from a couple of shorted diodes, so unless you test them with a DMM you wont know.

#2961 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

grumpy any suggestions for me?

Have you tested F-2 and F-4 on the power supply?

#2962 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Most switch matrix problems come from a couple of shorted diodes, so unless you test them with a DMM you wont know.

Probably been covered a million times, but just double checking- I have to pull up one leg of the diode prior to testing, correct?

#2963 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

I have to pull up one leg of the diode prior to testing, correct?

Remove 1J8 and 1J10 from the CPU board, remove the 4 balls. Now all switches are open and wires disconnected you should be able to test without lifting a leg.

#2964 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Have you tested F-2 and F-4 on the power supply?

No sir but I will now.

#2965 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

No sir but I will now.

Both should be 4 amp slow blow.

#2966 2 years ago

OK then fuses,yes I pulled every fuse but I'm on my way home and I will double check.

#2967 2 years ago

Well f2 which I swear i checked was blown and the wrong fuse.I'll recheck the rest and make sure the rest are the proper fuse.I can now start a game and some of the things that were not working are and maybe all,I didn't play long enough to find out as I noticed there's some light bulb issues so I turned it off.I did notice f2 in that minute or 2 seemed to be warming up and the other 3 right there weren't. Is it normal for it to get warm?my instinct says something wasn't right but there is current running through it.I'll poke around a little more and report back if needed in a couple days with what the lights are doing.

#2968 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

I did notice f2 in that minute or 2 seemed to be warming up

Something caused the fuse to burn in the first place, so keep your eyes open.

#2969 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Remove 1J8 and 1J10 from the CPU board, remove the 4 balls. Now all switches are open and wires disconnected you should be able to test without lifting a leg.

All 4 of the diodes involved in the issue I'm having tested fine.

#2970 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

All 4 of the diodes involved in the issue I'm having tested fine.

That's the trouble with switch matrix problems, it's not the switch that causes the problem it's another switch somewhere else that's bad and when the two of them are closed together it causes a problem.

#2971 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

That's the trouble with switch matrix problems, it's not the switch that causes the problem it's another switch somewhere else that's bad and when the two of them are closed together it causes a problem.

The only closed switches in the game at the time of the issue are the 4 I tested(the 3 locked balls and the 1 in the upkicker hole). No other switches would be closed then. Should I just check every diode in the game? Is there a way to narrow it down?

#2972 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

No other switches would be closed then.

Correct, but could you have hit a flipper switch (l/r lane change switch).

Quoted from shirkle:

Is there a way to narrow it down?

#2973 2 years ago

Very nice video. I've never had a switch matrix problem and I've owned my machines for about a decade. Learning something new!

#2974 2 years ago

So, a switch matrix problem could show up in the switch test as a false closed if I close the right combination of switches. Is that correct? Since I know where the game is still playing well (3 balls locked), I could close those three and then one by one close the others in same row and see what happens(open them if they're normally closed)? I believe both EOS switches are in those rows, so that where my suspicion is now.

#2975 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

So, a switch matrix problem could show up in the switch test as a false closed if I close the right combination of switches. Is that correct? Since I know where the game is still playing well (3 balls locked), I could close those three and then one by one close the others in same row and see what happens(open them if they're normally closed)? I believe both EOS switches are in those rows, so that where my suspicion is now.

Yes. This can also be reproduced with the playfield disconnected. You can use 2 new connectors and add jumpers across the connectors to simulate the 3 closed switches and see if it drains the balls. Then you would know if it's a pf problem or not.

#2976 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Very nice video. I've never had a switch matrix problem and I've owned my machines for about a decade. Learning something new!

I have also seen battery alkaline run down the board and and cause troubles with J-8 and a cracked SRC -6 cause many problems.

#2977 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Correct, but could you have hit a flipper switch (l/r lane change switch

I found a bad diode on the ball shooter lane, which is the same row as the ball popper on the switch matrix. Replaced it and it seems to have solved the problem!

I played a bunch of games and did some testing by hand as well. At one point it did put two balls in the shooter lane, so I'll have to see if I can recreate that problem and tackle that next.
For now, I'm excited to have solved the ball popper issue.
Thanks grumpy!

#2978 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

I found a bad diode on the ball shooter lane, which is the same row as the ball popper on the switch matrix. Replaced it and it seems to have solved the problem!

Nice find!!

Quoted from shirkle:

At one point it did put two balls in the shooter lane,

This can be a trough switch, do you have any pink connectors on the switches, if so cut them off and solder the wire direct to the switch tab.

Quoted from shirkle:

For now, I'm excited to have solved the ball popper issue.
Thanks grumpy!

Playball!

1 week later
#2979 2 years ago

Hi All,

I have my used PF up in the classified section from my recent PF swap. Not perfect by any means, but if yours is trashed this is maybe a reasonable alternative, especially with a little TLC..

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/57479

#2980 2 years ago

Hell yes!
That thing is light years better condition than mine was.

#2981 1 year ago

Rotten dog cpu, newly rebuilt power supply. PS works fine was tested in a pinbot for plenty of time. Here is my ?
No display or sound will not coin up. +5 volt light stays on as well as PIA.
The pf is not in but should still be able to do some testing and display should work.
Any suggestions?

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#2982 1 year ago

Just curious what a person does if the backbox light board isn't in the greatest shape. Do you go ahead and use it if it works or would you replace the board somehow? Thanks

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#2983 1 year ago

If it is structurally sound, I'd give it a fresh coat of white paint on the front and call it a day!

#2984 1 year ago

Don't look too bad, do as Freeplay40 suggests and give it a paint job. I use semigloss white.

#2985 1 year ago

I don't paint anymore, I use white glossy decal in all of my Pinball Machines - same material used on front of kitchen doors.
The light behind the translite then shines in very nice colors without hard edges.
It just need some time to cut out all the holes, but can be done in an hour.
Another advantage is that the board is very easy and quick to clean without scrawl.

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#2986 1 year ago

Good tip on the gloss decals - can be applied to any game!

So I may be looking into one of these and heard that a light effrct or two may be noy working correctly snf this is dur tk the cement block resistor board, sys11 in the lower rear of the main cab?
Anyone had this problem before? I believe the lamps work and I know f14 has dome swanky effects as I play it alot in the electronic video game, the pinball arcade.

#2987 1 year ago

Yep just as freeplay says. That’s how I did mine!

#2988 1 year ago

I have a problem with my flashers that is driving me crazy. The controlled flashers work fine, but the switched flashers are messed up. When running the coil test, flashers 1 and 5 light simultaneously for each of the switched flashers, but none others light. As mentioned, the controlled flashers test fine. I have done the following:

* Several of the resistor boards were a mess. All have been repaired and new resistors were added as necessary.
* Swapped in an MPU from a different game. Same result.
* Checked the multiplexing relay. Is is working fine. Its normal state is not to be energized.
* Tested all of the diodes on the diode board. All test fine.

There is no voltage at any of the resistor boards connected to the switched flashers until the multiplexing relay is switched. Is that correct? The resistor boards connected to the controlled flashers have voltage and the small resistors are appropriately hot (very hot).

Any help or magic would be appreciated.

#2989 1 year ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

When running the coil test, flashers 1 and 5 light simultaneously for each of the switched flashers, but none others light.

So if you are running flasher 3c, 3c doesn't light but 1c and 5c both light instead. Is this correct?

#2990 1 year ago

Yes. Likewise, if I run the test for 2c, 3c, 4c, 6c, or 7c, they don't light but for each one tested both 1c and 5c light simultaneously. Flashers 9, 10 and the backbox flashers (controlled, not switched) work just fine during the test.

#2991 1 year ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

I have a problem with my flashers that is driving me crazy. The controlled flashers work fine, but the switched flashers are messed up.

SOLVED. I had natural white LED flasher bulbs in 1c and 5c (the ones with clear lenses) and incandescent #89s in the rest of the switched flashers (the ones with colored lenses). On F14 Tomcat, the switching relay is set to the "a" coils until switched for use with any one of the switched flashers. That means there is no voltage to the 330ohm resistors on the resistor boards (they are all cool to the touch). I don't know the science of the electricity flow other than to say it all now works fine with nothing but incandescent 89 bulbs in all of the switched flashers.

Has anyone every mixed LEDs and 89s before with this result? Do LED flashers work in this game for the switched flashers?

#2992 1 year ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

Has anyone every mixed LEDs and 89s before with this result?

Yes, if there is 2 bulbs on the circuit and 1 is led and the other is incandescent no harm no foul. If only 1 bulb then the warming resistor or ground wire needs to be removed from the flasher board for this circuit for the led to work properly.

Quoted from FiatsRUs:

Do LED flashers work in this game for the switched flashers?

Switched or controlled no problem with leds if you remove the warming resistor or ground wire for the circuit you are installing leds.

Remember each flasher board is 2 circuits, and not all of the circuits are being used.

#2993 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes, if there is 2 bulbs on the circuit and 1 is led and the other is incandescent no harm no foul. If only 1 bulb then the warming resistor or ground wire needs to be removed from the flasher board for this circuit for the led to work properly.

Switched or controlled no problem with leds if you remove the warming resistor or ground wire for the circuit you are installing leds.
Remember each flasher board is 2 circuits, and not all of the circuits are being used.

Great info. Thanks!

#2994 1 year ago

Has anybody had their bottom 2 displays not work? How did you go about repairing this or did you have to order a whole new display? I tried resetting the cables with no luck. Thank you

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#2995 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Has anybody had their bottom 2 displays not work?

Yes.

Quoted from scampcamp:

How did you go about repairing this

I start by checking the output of 1J3 of the cpu board with a logic probe.

#2996 1 year ago

Thanks... pm sent

#2997 1 year ago

Just joined the club. Came super clean and no raised inserts!!
Been playing f14 on my phone non stop for weeks!

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#2998 1 year ago

Congrats ! I'll have to come over and check it out sometime.

#2999 1 year ago

Wondering what may be causing new incandescent light bulbs to burn out in the blue (right) beacon after it comes on 2-3 times? Thanks.

#3000 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Wondering what may be causing new incandescent light bulbs to burn out in the blue (right) beacon after it comes on 2-3 times? Thanks.

That's a 26v circuit, isn't it? Are you using the right bulbs? The manual says #1683 (eg http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-1683 )

Pretty sure a #89 will fit in the socket as they're both BA15s, but as it's a 12v bulb it'll be really bright and then blow. #89 only work as flashers at 24v because they are only on such a short time, as soon as they are on for a while, they'll fail. Same deal if you put #89s where the manual calls for #1531s on my Space Station:
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