(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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There are 4107 posts in this topic. You are on page 58 of 83.
#2851 2 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Do I do this by basically putting the meter on ohms and making sure it's above 3.9 or so?

Yep.

#2852 2 years ago

Great.. thank you

#2853 2 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Do I do this by basically putting the meter on ohms and making sure it's above 3.9 or so? Thanks

If you get a funny reading then lift a leg of the diode and retest the coil. A bad diode can cause a burnt TIP too.

#2854 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

If you get a funny reading then lift a leg of the diode and retest the coil. A bad diode can cause a burnt TIP too.

Is it pretty rare for it to have a bad diode? How would the coil act? Thanks

#2855 2 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Is it pretty rare for it to have a bad diode?

No, diodes go bad at times. Most of the time they go open and don't cause any immediate damage. Sometimes they short out which will cause current to bypass the coil and damage the TIP driver and possibly other parts in the circuit.

#2856 2 years ago

Someone put in New coils and didnt wire them. Where do these go so i dont blow anything?

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#2857 2 years ago

Page 59 of the manual shows that blue/yellow and blue/violet wires go to the right flipper. Blue/grey goes to the left flipper. Page 29 shows the white /violet wires go to the left and right lane change switch. The green/ grey wire goes to the left lane change switch. All of these wires are direction sensitive and if connected incorrectly can cause damage to something. Would be better for you to start with pics of one flipper assembly and put numbers on the terminals. And I can tell you which wire goes to which terminal.

#2858 2 years ago

I was able to take these, but not label them.
Hope they are a little better.

Quoted from GRUMPY:Page 59 of the manual shows that blue/yellow and blue/violet wires go to the right flipper. Blue/grey goes to the left flipper. Page 29 shows the white /violet wires go to the left and right lane change switch. The green/ grey wire goes to the left lane change switch. All of these wires are direction sensitive and if connected incorrectly can cause damage to something. Would be better for you to start with pics of one flipper assembly and put numbers on the terminals. And I can tell you which wire goes to which terminal.

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#2859 2 years ago

The green coil is for the upper flipper. The blue coil is correct for the lower coil. I only see one diode on the green coil right now, a second diode must be added before using it. So lets start with your last pic, this is the right flipper. The lug with no wire on it (bottom lug in the pic) gets the blue/yellow wire. The top lug gets the blue/purple wire. Now for the lane change switch (switch closest to the return spring) both green/red wires connect to the leaf nearest the led bulb. The last wire for the lane change switch is the white/purple and it connects to the leaf where the diode connects just underneath the white cable tie is. This should fix the right flipper. When you change the green coil out for the correct blue coil I will help you with that then.

#2860 2 years ago

I'm in the club now, my question is does anyone have or know where i could buy just the head decals? The right side of my head is atrocious, the paint is flaked terribly but the rest of the cabinet is in decent shape. Or does anyone have the art in vector format for me to get them printed at my local shop?

I also need a center playfield plastic piece if anyone has one.

Thanks!

#2861 2 years ago
Quoted from prostock32:

I'm in the club now, my question is does anyone have or know where i could buy just the head decals? The right side of my head is atrocious, the paint is flaked terribly but the rest of the cabinet is in decent shape. Or does anyone have the art in vector format fow me to get them printed at my local shop? Thanks!

Ya, I only wanted both the right side and front cabinet decals. But you can only buy the entire set. However, once you do the whole cab, it is really nice and you won't regret it.
I would look at frisket and air brushing with Createx air brush paint. Go read Vid's guide on playfield restoration. He talks about using frisket and airbrushing. No reason you can't do it on a cabinet unless the art is wiped out. It's a lot of work, but if you only need to do one side of the back box it's very doable. You will start with the black and then the red and then yellow and finally white. A good winter project.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-629391

#2862 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The green coil is for the upper flipper. The blue coil is correct for the lower coil. I only see one diode on the green coil right now, a second diode must be added before using it. So lets start with your last pic, this is the right flipper. The lug with no wire on it (bottom lug in the pic) gets the blue/yellow wire. The top lug gets the blue/purple wire. Now for the lane change switch (switch closest to the return spring) both green/red wires connect to the leaf nearest the led bulb. The last wire for the lane change switch is the white/purple and it connects to the leaf where the diode connects just underneath the white cable tie is. This should fix the right flipper. When you change the green coil out for the correct blue coil I will help you with that then.

thank you for the info. I was able to hook up the right flipper, with your help. I also got the left flipper working by doing what i did with the right flipper and looking at the schematics to make sure it was correct. The game is going to be used in league play this weekend, so i didnt have time to wait for the correct coil to come in. It will be changed out when the part arrives. It is a very nice example of the game, with clear flashers in the back and the tomcat flashers wired as originally intended. The inserts are in pretty good shape, with no lifting. All of the plastics are in good shape with none broken.

1 week later
#2863 2 years ago

Hey I'm working on this mangled f14. Trying to just get the beacons up and running. Does anyone have some good pictures of the wiring for it. The manual show the topper asm just being hooked up to white and blue but it comes through the relay which is cut. Can I just direct wire the white blue to the topper

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#2864 2 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Can I just direct wire the white blue to the topper

If you do the beacons will be on as soon as you turn on the machine.

#2865 2 years ago

Give me a couple min. I'll send you pics of mine. If it will help anything.

#2866 2 years ago

If you need more just send me a pm in case I don't see the thread.

I cut the zip ties to try to show it better. The two white with blue wire running off the left of the pic go to the motor. I tried to get everything covered in one pic.(lower pic)

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#2867 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It sounds like the adjustment tab is not as strong as it should be. Instead of bending the whole thing forward to make the contacts tighter try to use a pair of small needle-nose pliers and bend the end of the adjustment tab forward at an angle. This may help to maintain a more consistent gap.

Ok it’s been a while now. The advise you offered did the trick. Contacts have been holding steady, so this is the proper way to bend an adjustment tab for contacts.
Thanks much!!

#2868 2 years ago

Last night while I had a friend over for F-14 battle, we noticed that both the right and left flippers are causing random scoring to occur, but only in 100 point increments at a time. Can't locate any tight switches that could be causing this. Any other suggestions as to the cause?
Thanks

#2869 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Last night while I had a friend over for F-14 battle, we noticed that both the right and left flippers are causing random scoring to occur, but only in 100 point increments at a time. Can't locate any tight switches that could be causing this. Any other suggestions as to the cause?
Thanks

Almost has to be a switch gapped to close.
With 4 flippers on this game it could be almost anywhere.
How about the pop bumper. Sometimes that gets to close simply from gravity.
I would certainly check any gap on switches near a flipper.

#2870 2 years ago

Just chimp flip your way to victory

#2871 2 years ago

Check diode elements at flipper coils and scoring switches at the slingshots.
Take care, the scoring switches are mounted under the playfield, the both on top behind the slings are for slingshots coils only!

#2872 2 years ago

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#2873 2 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Check diode elements at flipper coils and scoring switches at the slingshots.
Take care, the scoring switches are mounted under the playfield, the both on top behind the slings are for slingshots coils only!

Good thinking!
I never thought to check those!
Thanks

OK,
I figured out what was going on. It turned out to be the blue target switch at bottom right. I must have missed that one first time around. I tested each target individually with a piece of paper between contacts while chimp flipping away. Also discovered that the orbit left roll under feather switch was also intermittently scoring 1000 points. Both properly gapped now. Problem solved!
Thanks.

#2874 2 years ago

My VUK on the upper right of the playfield isn't working. The switch makes contact and I can hear the relay clicking, but the coil is not firing. All wiring is intact. It did have a blown fuse (2.5A, slow blow) that I replaced, but still nothing. Any thoughts before I start tearing it apart?

#2875 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

The switch makes contact and I can hear the relay clicking, but the coil is not firing.

Check for voltage at both lugs on the coil. Should be @ 62 volts DC.

#2876 2 years ago

Slight update- the VUK seems to have magically started working over night. However, I've noticed the 2.5A fuse under the playfield blew again. Now, I've noticed the pop bumper and slings aren't working correctly. I did test the pop bumper and it worked very briefly with a new fuse, maybe 3-4 "pops"(which seemed relatively weak, also), and then blew the fuse and stopped working. I can test the coil by jumpering the single-wire lug to ground and it does work. Switch edges appear fine and not touching/making contact.

I'll also state that this is a new playfield- the game was working before the swap, so it's possible that I've messed something up in the swap. I'm only just now noticing issues as I test it now that the swap is complete. Based on that, I don't think it's a board issue....but I don't know what else to look for. Any ideas?

#2877 2 years ago

New problem.on ball 3 I completed all the kill lites to light extra ball (never collected)also 2 sets of tomcat targets.the big round light in front of the kill targets went white and stayed on which I dont recall happening before.I shot a ball up the right side to start the lock and it went crazy as if i got an extra ball or something as it locked the first ball then let me lock the second ball at that point it ended my turn and went to ball 4 and would not kick the ball out to the shooter lane.I retrieved the balls and can start a game but it won't kick the ball out. P.s.it also reset my high scores the other day and the batteries are not old.

#2878 2 years ago

Check the Micro-Switches in the gates and locks.
Sometimes CPU is unable to count the locked balls if a switch is not working properly, then during gameplay balls will be rejected one by one through the CPU.

#2879 2 years ago

Finally have some time to work on my game again.
Everything is working great but the pop and slings.
When I turn on the game it tells me to check pop and sling switches.
I pulled every switch out and checked for shorts or missing parts.
I found the left sling had it's 25v cap with a leg missing so I replaced the cap.
Still no luck though. Game plays great but refuses to activate those three coils.

#2880 2 years ago

Sounds like we've got a similar issue(see my post a couple above yours)! I'm curious why these three are out. Is your issue also taking out that under playfield fuse?

#2881 2 years ago

Does F-14 knock while self-testing?
Then check counter switches for slingshots!

#2882 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Sounds like we've got a similar issue(see my post a couple above yours)! I'm curious why these three are out. Is your issue also taking out that under playfield fuse?

Both under playfield fuses are good and do not blow out.
If there are more then two then the one I can't find may be my problem.
I have located one by the left flipper which I assume are for the flippers.
And a second all the way down at the bottom right side when the playfield is lifted.

#2883 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Both under playfield fuses are good and do not blow out.

All SS use a ground wire to activate the TIP on the CPU. These grounds are daisy chained from switch to switch. Did you remove the ground wires from the resistor boards to add LED flashers?

#2884 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

I shot a ball up the right side to start the lock and it went crazy as if i got an extra ball or something as it locked the first ball then let me lock the second ball at that point it ended my turn and went to ball 4 and would not kick the ball out to the shooter lane.I retrieved the balls and can start a game but it won't kick the ball out.

You need to check the trough switches in switch test.

Quoted from Puffdanny:P.s.it also reset my high scores the other day and the batteries are not old.

You need to check the battery holder to see if the contacts have come off.

#2885 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

All SS use a ground wire to activate the TIP on the CPU. These grounds are daisy chained from switch to switch. Did you remove the ground wires from the resistor boards to add LED flashers?

I did not remove any ground wires. The only LED flashers I have installed are under the large round clear window in the center of the playfield. All the rest of the flashers I have not messed with yet.
Where are the resistor boards so I can check if someone else may have done that?
The two led flashers in the round window do work though.

#2886 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I did not remove any ground wires.

Then you should check the inputs at the CPU board 1J18 pin 3, 4 and 5. Use a voltmeter check for 5 volts at pin 3, then press the right kicker rubber and the voltmeter should drop the zero volts. Then repeat for pin 4 = pop skirt. Pin 5 = left kicker.

#2887 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then you should check the inputs at the CPU board 1J18 pin 3, 4 and 5. Use a voltmeter check for 5 volts at pin 3, then press the right kicker rubber and the voltmeter should drop the zero volts. Then repeat for pin 4 = pop skirt. Pin 5 = left kicker.

Thanks Grumpy

#2888 2 years ago

When it goes through coil test nothing happens until 17 L sling then 18 R sling then 20 pop bumper 21 top diverted and 22 lower diverted nothing happens on the rest.switch level test I get an audible that sound like it's telling me to address the 4 thing it's cycling 11 Rt ball trough,12 Rc ball trough,13 Lc ball trough and 22 L cent eject. I'll look at my manuals and see what I can guess and post back before any advice maybe I'll get lucky.

#2889 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

When it goes through coil test nothing happens until 17

So none of the flashers are working? As for the coils not working check the fuse in the backbox just above the flipper power supply.

#2890 2 years ago

No flashers, I checked every fuse in the back box I could find on and off the boards.

#2891 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

No flashers, I checked every fuse in the back box I could find on and off the boards.

Remove 1J8 and 1J10 from the Cpu and retest the coils.

#2892 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then you should check the inputs at the CPU board 1J18 pin 3, 4 and 5. Use a voltmeter check for 5 volts at pin 3, then press the right kicker rubber and the voltmeter should drop the zero volts. Then repeat for pin 4 = pop skirt. Pin 5 = left kicker.

Done.
All spots on J18 behave as described. 4.8 volts then drop to zero when pressed.

#2893 2 years ago

Same thing except now it won't go through the switch test but I bet you already know that.also it doesn't do nothing on the switch edges test (ever) unless I hit a flipper or start button.

#2894 2 years ago

Hmm.... where did my manual go?

#2895 2 years ago

I finally figured out what "Ripoff" means on F-14.
I took the glass off to verify this. I am posting this for other F-14 players that may not know this.
System 11 games are known for lock stealing. And F-14 has this feature when playing multi player games.
If player one locks any balls, the next player (player two) only has to spell TOM CAT to qualify the locked ball and doesn't have to re-lock the ball by shooting the new ball into the launch VUK. Say player one has all three balls locked and then drains before getting multiball, player two only needs to spell tom cat for each locked ball and then spell it again (a fourth time) to light Ripoff and you get the multiball for shooting Ripoff. So you Ripped off the previous players locked balls. You never actually had to lock the balls.
Player two will get to re-lock his balls again at start of turn, but the previous player does gain the advantage here.
Cool man!

#2896 2 years ago

Just sayin hello. Picked up a working F14 today.

After a thorough cleaning and some new rubber I'll be in business I hope.

Prepare yourselves for multiple questions!

#2897 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Done.
All spots on J18 behave as described. 4.8 volts then drop to zero when pressed.

Then check for power on both lugs of each coil that doesn't work. If power is good then briefly ground the metal tab of Q-69, Q-71 and Q-75 to see if the coil fires.

#2899 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Same thing except now it won't go through the switch test but I bet you already know that.also it doesn't do nothing on the switch edges test (ever) unless I hit a flipper or start button.

Replace J8 and J10.
Try reseating game ROMs as this is a weird problem. You can do a factory reset also.

#2900 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then check for power on both lugs of each coil that doesn't work. If power is good then briefly ground the metal tab of Q-69, Q-71 and Q-75 to see if the coil fires.

Not exactly sure how to test coil power. But by grounding each wire on the three coils while In attract mode I get 1.5 volts.
Grounding the transistors while in attract mode does not fire the coils.

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