WANTED: Complete set of CPR Plastics for F-14 (or info on where to get them). Thanks!
(Topic ID: 66172)
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F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
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I hope Arcade is doing well and got this beautiful game working and didn't get the flooding I saw on tv for Beaumont. Wishing you the best in both. Hope all is well.
Beaumont, TX
Quoted from Buzz:I hope Arcade is doing well and got this beautiful game working and didn't get the flooding I saw on tv for Beaumont. Wishing you the best in both. Hope all is well.
I was extremely lucky with high water.
All machines are still good. Just way to busy helping feed the National Guard and helping others to work on games now.
My cousin lost all 5 of his pins with water up to his attic. 
Then to top it all off both of our city water pumps failed last night in a river that is now 16 feet over flood stage.
The sky is filled with helicopters rescuing people and evacuating one of our hospitals. It is all so very surreal.
Quoted from Arcade:Just way to busy helping feed the National Guard and helping others
Keep up the good fight. 
I'm going to look at a F-14 this weekend. Is there anything in particular to look at that is problematic?
Quoted from captainadam_21:I'm going to look at a F-14 this weekend. Is there anything in particular to look at that is problematic?
Both F-14s I have worked out had burnt diverter coils and well as the coresponding transistors and pre drivers.
Quoted from captainadam_21:I'm going to look at a F-14 this weekend. Is there anything in particular to look at that is problematic?
Aewsome game..good luck...
Quoted from captainadam_21:I'm going to look at a F-14 this weekend. Is there anything in particular to look at that is problematic?
Beacons, although it's not as bad as it used to be since someone is making repro assemblies, but still expensive if all the parts aren't there.
Quoted from Milltown:Love my f14.. beers and yagov until 4 am last night.. dam addictave...
4am, drinking and pinball. Now we're talking.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yagof switch#55 will light the alpha and bravo lights. Check this for being to close. That being said you should check diodes on switches 49 and 50.
OK, I separated #55 contacts with plastic and tried again, no change. Then I replaced diode, no change. As for switch #49, this is a new target switch and no problem with contacts touching.
I also discovered that the Yagov kickback solenoid fires whenever I get an Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, etc... strictly from firing left flipper. Can't find anything other than 'Left E.O.S' registering in switch edges-levels when firing the left flipper. I checked all the other switches mentioned as well and all the switch diodes with diode test on DMM. I am out of ideas.
Quoted from Toyguy:Check the two standup targets just above the outhole drain area. Hitting those while the Kill lamp is on will spot one kill. Associated with that are the 2 inlane switches, so check those too.
Finally, hit the left out lane switch to fire the rescue coil, then see if Rescue delights in the Outland when hitting the flippers. If so, those same two center targets also serve that function so it would make them even more suspicious.
I'm not sure if I am following you. "Two standup targets just above the outhole drain area", you mean the tom cat targets? This has nothing to do with the kill lights and getting a kill.
"Finally, hit the left out lane switch to fire the rescue coil, then see if Rescue delights in the Outland when hitting the flippers."
Not following you here either. If you hit the left out lane switch and fire rescue coil, rescue delights. It has nothing to do with flipper.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:I also discovered that the Yagov kickback solenoid fires whenever I get an Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, etc...
This is the key here. the game thinks switch #55 has closed. Then it fires the coil and lights the alpha light.
You hit the left flipper, the left EOS closes, the game thinks switch #55 closed and fires Q-8 and sometime tilts the game. Does this still happen if you just manually lift the left flipper to close the EOS switch.
Quoted from GRUMPY:This is the key here. the game thinks switch #55 has closed. Then it fires the coil and lights the alpha light.
You hit the left flipper, the left EOS closes, the game thinks switch #55 closed and fires Q-8 and sometime tilts the game. Does this still happen if you just manually lift the left flipper to close the EOS switch.
No, I tried that on both flippers.
Remove and insulate both wires on the left lane change switch. Then retest by using the left flipper button.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Remove and insulate both wires on the left lane change switch. Then retest by using the left flipper button.
Will do.
Thanks again GRUMPY.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:I'm not sure if I am following you. "Two standup targets just above the outhole drain area", you mean the tom cat targets? This has nothing to do with the kill lights and getting a kill.
"Finally, hit the left out lane switch to fire the rescue coil, then see if Rescue delights in the Outland when hitting the flippers."
Not following you here either. If you hit the left out lane switch and fire rescue coil, rescue delights. It has nothing to do with flipper.
The two targets right above the radar scope - those will score kills if the inlane light is light, you roll over the inlane switch and then hit one of those targets. I was wondering if those targets and/or the inlane switches were set too close and flipper vibration was causing them to close.
The Rescue kickback is lit by those same targets once it's been used, so it was just another test of them. If you spend the kickback, but it relight while whacking the flipper, they may be set too tight.
I rather doubt that's your problem, but it's quick to rule out.
Quoted from Toyguy:The two targets right above the radar scope - those will score kills if the inlane light is light, you roll over the inlane switch and then hit one of those targets. I was wondering if those targets and/or the inlane switches were set too close and flipper vibration was causing them to close.
The Rescue kickback is lit by those same targets once it's been used, so it was just another test of them. If you spend the kickback, but it relight while whacking the flipper, they may be set too tight.
I rather doubt that's your problem, but it's quick to rule out.
OK,
I checked all these things and it's not the switches.
Thanks..
Quoted from GRUMPY:StylesBitchly
Did you rebuild this flipper, replace the EOS switch?
Yes.
I followed Vid's guide on rebuilding flippers closely and did everything suggested. Can't imagine where I could have messed that up. But knowing me, it's possible.
I will check the wiring and E.O.S. switch of the right flipper against the left flipper to see if there is an obvious mistake.
Thanks..
Quoted from GRUMPY:Remove and insulate both wires on the left lane change switch. Then retest by using the left flipper button.
Checked wires very closely. No problems. Did find a lame solder joint and fixed it, but no change.
What I am wondering is there any way that the lane change switch can be Getting voltage from the EOS switch.
Is there any fishpaper between the two switches? If that's worn through you could get some connectivity where you don't want it.
OK,
I finally figured out what the problem was, but for the life of me, I don't really understand why it caused the problem. Grumpy, you tipped me off when you mentioned that the E.O.S. switch was somehow getting power when it shouldn't. What it turned out to be was the wood screws running through the stack switch on left flipper were energizing the flipper assembly frame. Don't really understand how this was wreaking havoc. When the E.O.S. opened, it broke the circuit. I disassembled and reassembled the stack and it solved the problem. No more hot screws and no more free kills. I put my first high score on F-14 today....YA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
*The screws must have somehow been touching both the hot E.O.S. leaf and mounting bracket that supports the stack switch. *The Lane Change switch was unaffected according to continuity test??
Thanks again for all the help GRUMPY. YOU DA MAN!!!!!!!
Quoted from Toyguy:Is there any fishpaper between the two switches? If that's worn through you could get some connectivity where you don't want it.
Yes, I did make sure the fish paper was correctly installed between switches.
Thanks
Does anyone know how to configure this remote batter to work with F14? The instructions say to put the red wire up in the far right and the black wire down on the far left. Leave the middle battery slot on the board open. When I do this, my machine resorts to factory defaults and gives and Adjust Error.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:I disassembled and reassembled the stack and it solved the problem. No more hot screws and no more free kills.
Do you have the insulation tubes in the stack spacers?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Do you have the insulation tubes in the stack spacers?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/3A-7007-114
Yes, those appeared to be built in to the stack switch assemblies. I even checked with my DMM to make sure they were insulated. But I never knew these were offered separately. It does lead me to wonder how the screws ever made contact though?
Thanks..
Quoted from SkaterVet:Does anyone know how to configure this remote batter to work with F14? The instructions say to put the red wire up in the far right and the black wire down on the far left. Leave the middle battery slot on the board open. When I do this, my machine resorts to factory defaults and gives and Adjust Error.
If you clear the error, play a game then turn it off and back on do you get the Adjust Error? If so test the voltage at the board where the battery contacts are.
Quoted from SkaterVet:Does anyone know how to configure this remote batter to work with F14?
I just installed the OCD LED controller on F-14. The LED's now behave exactly like incandescent bulbs. Nice smooth fade in and out. Very liquid and no ghosting at all. Beautiful light show! Well worth the money to me. And easy to install.
Now for my last issue. About half the time the diverter lands a ball into the left or right center eject trough, it will either wait to kick it out or I have to hit a flipper to get it to launch ball. Like I said, it's only about half the time this happens. The habitrail switches work well and also the trough switches in switch test using ball. So I am stumped as to what is going on here?
Do these switches have a pink crimp on connector? If so remove them and solder wire to the switch directly.
Newmarket, ON
Quoted from GRUMPY:Do these switches have a pink crimp on connector? If so remove them and solder wire to the switch directly
These pink crimps are pure evil !!! lol
OK, I done removing evil pink crimp connectors and soldering wires to switch tabs. That fixed the right kicker. The left one required me to remove eject switch and drill mounting holes in different location. This has been an ongoing issue with the repro playfield. Holes are not in exactly the same position so problems arise. Anyone without patience should avoid a playfield swap. Looks like my pain is at an end! Time to play pinball!!!
Thanks for all the help Grand Master GRUMPY!
Here are some pics of the finished project with new repro playfield and plastics and cabinet decals and LED lighting with OCD LED controller installed. Also new Rottendog MPU board and power source and Pinscore LED Display, Pinball Pro Speakers and under cab LED lighting. Many other improvements and mods as well.
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Quoted from StylesBitchly:Here are some pics of the finished project with new repro playfield and plastics and cabinet decals and LED lighting with OCD LED controller installed. Also new Rottendog MPU board and power source and Pinball Pro Speakers.
Remind me where the cab decals came from please?
Quoted from bobukcat:Remind me where the cab decals came from please?
Bay Area Amusements.
Quoted from Travish:It's like brand new!!!
My OCD would FORCE me to get rid of all those IDC connectors. I hate those things.
Yes, I spent too much money on this game, but that is my CDOness! I have to admit though, F-14 is in a class all it's own and so much fun to me. I really can't think of a pin I would rather have fully restored.
Cheers!
Here is a shot of the 'Metal-Mods F-14 Tomcat Chrome Cap decals' I installed today. Really nice. Be very careful while installing. The chrome scratches easily and it is a challenge to line up perfectly. I used an Xacto Knife to position it.
I also added some target decals to the front Kill/Rescue targets. I used an EK Tools Circle Punch, 0.75-Inch for the decals and mylar covers and a standard hole punch for the center rivet. If you stick decal over rivet it will look like crap. I'm pretty sure I downloaded the decal art from mbott1701 on page 8 this thread. It is inkjet printed onto matt white sticky-back vinyl.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Look at that score! Practice, practice, practice. : ))
It was my wife!!!
I promise!
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