(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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  • 4,079 posts
  • 322 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 132 Pinsiders

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There are 4079 posts in this topic. You are on page 54 of 82.
#2651 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You can't drive a 50 volt coil directly from a TIP122 or a TIP102. You need to add a TIP36a in between the TIP102 and the coil.

Remember I have a Rottendog mpu board.
What about just installing a more powerful coil or removing windings from coil to reduce resistance?

#2652 2 years ago

I was wondering about the flashers and using led's. I read about taking the warmer off the boards, but I was curious if I only did the playfield ones and not the back box or the row on the backboard if that is necessary. I saw a post that someone had stated this but didn't see an answer. I don't want to do any harm to it and not sure if I tried that the bulbs possible staying on a little would be the only thing that would happen. I just don't want to mess up an amazing 30yr old pin because I wanted to be blinded more. Any input is greatly appreciated.

#2653 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

I was wondering about the flashers and using led's. I read about taking the warmer off the boards, but I was curious if I only did the playfield ones and not the back box or the row on the backboard if that is necessary. I saw a post that someone had stated this but didn't see an answer. I don't want to do any harm to it and not sure if I tried that the bulbs possible staying on a little would be the only thing that would happen. I just don't want to mess up an amazing 30yr old pin because I wanted to be blinded more. Any input is greatly appreciated

Its fine to leave the first flasher in the circuit incandescent as it will absorb the warming current and prevent the led flashers from staying on but removing the warming resistors is very easy . Up to you.

#2655 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

I was wondering about the flashers and using led's. I read about taking the warmer off the boards, but I was curious if I only did the playfield ones and not the back box or the row on the backboard if that is necessary. I saw a post that someone had stated this but didn't see an answer. I don't want to do any harm to it and not sure if I tried that the bulbs possible staying on a little would be the only thing that would happen. I just don't want to mess up an amazing 30yr old pin because I wanted to be blinded more. Any input is greatly appreciated.

I don't see any downside to doing that. But I also don't see any downside to eliminating all the warming resistors. Less problems. I used WARM WHITE for all the white flashers. Use the 89 Flat 8 smd type (Pinball Life) in the back box. I also used RED Flat 8 smd type in the rear because I have an early run machine with the clear flasher domes. They are not blinding at all. The only place I thought the flashers were too much was the three under the radar insert. I wound up using two blue and one warm white for that. It looks cool.
All the other playfield vertical flashers I used CoinTaker Super 5's

#2656 2 years ago

Thank you all so much. I really appreciate everyone's insight on this. You all are awesome thank you for the fast responses.

#2657 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Thank you all so much. I really appreciate everyone's insight on this. You all are awesome thank you for the fast responses.

You're very welcome.
Cheers!

#2658 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

But I also don't see any downside to eliminating all the warming resistors.

You dont need to remove any resistors. Just remove the ground wires off the boards and heat shrink . Thats it. Takes 15 mins and your done. Also super easy to restore back to original if you ever wanted to.

#2659 2 years ago
Quoted from Bren-E:

Hey guys X-Pin have made a short run of "EARLY F-14" Tomcat / millionaire digital displays (See link)
https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms11415-m/
Great spare, be quick
Bren-E

No,
The one you listed is the XP-WMS11415-M (Millionaire).
This one is the XP-WMS11415-F (Early F-14 and Space Station) https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms11415-f/

The XP-WMS11610 is the (F-14 Late production model) https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms11610/

For those of you that don't know about this, the early run F-14's had a different back box design that used the original millionaire display. If you install a later run compatible display in an early run machine, the connectors will not fit and the LED's will be too far back from the glass cover. It can be modded to fit, but will still be farther back and not look so good.
The two lamp socket holes on bottom left and right and missing Led displays in middle were for Millionaire. They were not used on F-14. See Pic below..
For later run display (XP-WMS11610) bottom pic, notice the lack of bottom section where lamps and extra LED displays were. This is a smaller board made to fit later run F-14 back box design.
** The early production displays only come in orange and cost $90.00 more than the orange later production display. But the later production displays come in other colors which cost the same as early production display.
="11415f (resized).jpg"]

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a4c638f5acd21135c0fd405cbf0e7904192d8d6f (resized).jpg

11610-O (resized).jpg

#2660 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

You dont need to remove any resistors. Just remove the ground wires off the boards and heat shrink . Thats it. Takes 15 mins and your done. Also super easy to restore back to original if you ever wanted to.

Yes, that works too, But I removed them. Not ever going back. I like 21 century tech! I even have an OCD LED controller.

#2661 2 years ago

That is the one which is compatible with the later run F-14's..
Cheers!

#2662 2 years ago

Cool I don't have plans to do my back box yet so I think I just do the playfield and try the lazy method. I just wanted to make sure I was not going to create bigger problems for I'm really loving this game. I'm still learning stuff and getting better every day. Thank you again everyone

#2663 2 years ago

Buzz one of the back box flasher is tied with one of the pf flasher circuit and need to changed together.

#2664 2 years ago

I'm so sorry not to quite understand fully when you have put so much information on this game out there for us. If I just do the playfield flashers the back box ones that are tied will take the warming voltage? If I do the whole game the resistor or grounds need to be removed. If I just do the playfield I need to replace the one in the back box too? I was just thinking of doing the 6 domes and the 1 kill target. Again I apologize if you have covered this and I just didn't get it. And really appreciate your help thank you so much

#2665 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

No left flipper and left sling coil.

Ok GRUMPY,
I changed the left flipper coil diodes and the left sling coil diode and no change. Still tilting.??

#2666 2 years ago

Then the Left lane change switch and the left sling score switch diodes.

#2667 2 years ago

Buzz the flashers 1c-8c that you want to change are not tied to the back box. But you can remove the ground wire from all the boards as it won't bother either type bulb if you want.

#2668 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then the Left lane change switch and the left sling score switch diodes.

Will do!
I'm on it tomorrow evening. Will post results about same time.
Thanks again!

#2669 2 years ago

Thank you

#2670 2 years ago

No problem. Now if you find a LED bulb that doesn't work, check that the center terminal of the socket has the orange (flashers 1-8)or red (flasher 9-10) wire.

#2671 2 years ago

Just got my F14 to boot up and start a game with special thanks to Chris Hibler.
But since I do not want to bother him on his personal phone any more then necessary I figured I would post my new issue here for Grumpy and the rest.

My game now starts up and will kick out a ball to start a game. Yes!!! Finally getting somewhere.

But while most game switches and coils work, I have no flippers, pop bumper or slings. (All fuses tested)
Chris had me ground out a small diode on the MPU board to see if it brought back power to the flippers.
It is the first diode D3 above the large flipper relay dome in the photo. I believe he called it a 2N3904.
And success, it worked!!!
If I keep the left side of that diode grounded I get my flippers back.

But that is where we left off.
What should my next steps be to get the game playing fully?

Any ideas appreciated.

FullSizeRender(1) (resized).jpg

#2672 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

It is the first diode D3 above the large flipper relay dome in the photo.

If you applied a ground to the anode side of D3 the relay will engage making the flippers work which then leads you to a CPU board problem.

#2673 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Any ideas appreciated.

You can start a game then check the voltage at U-50 pin 10.

#2674 2 years ago

Are you sure that both diverter coils are working?

#2675 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Are you sure that both diverter coils are working?

No but when we plunged the ball it was diverted by one of them.
They are new coils and the CPU board was repaired by Chris a few weeks ago.
We can check the voltage sometime tomorrow. Not near the game at the moment.

#2676 2 years ago

You should check in coil test. It sounds like none of the SS are working. Do you have a logic probe?

#2677 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Thank you all so much. I really appreciate everyone's insight on this. You all are awesome thank you for the fast responses.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-beacon-diy-step-down-voltage-regulator#post-3044401

#2678 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You should check in coil test. It sounds like none of the SS are working. Do you have a logic probe?

Just a multimeter.
I will get back to the game soon but kinda stuck in what's left of Hurricane Harvey at the moment.
We had 7" of rain fall last night.
Beaumont is flooded pretty good right now.
It is not as bad as Houston which is close by but we could get in that situation fast.

This is the road my business is located on here in Beaumont.

IMG_0032 (resized).JPG

#2679 2 years ago

Shit man be safe and good luck

#2680 2 years ago

Had a few min.
Both diverter coils are working great. I was able to lock all balls and start a multiball.
Just found U50.
Noticed that every time I press on it the relay above it clicks.

#2681 2 years ago

Here is a photo of U50.
Since I don't want to screw anything up which pin is 10 ?
Guessing third from left on bottom row of photo.
The white dot on the board is on the top right pin just like the chip to the left shows.

IMG_4496 (resized).JPG

#2682 2 years ago

Weather is crazy and only going to get worse until Thurs or Friday.
Hoping for the best but the damn storm is heading back out into the gulf and then straight into Houston. Thank god we all have flood insurance but not looking forward to a drowned house which could easily happen now.
On the bright side we are stuck at home with electricity and pinball machines.

#2683 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then the Left lane change switch and the left sling score switch diodes.

Changed both of these and still the random tilt. Checked the new diodes after I soldered them in and they are good.

#2684 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Changed both of these and still the random tilt

Last one I would change is the slam tilt diode on the coin door.

#2685 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Noticed that every time I press on it the relay above it clicks.

I think you found your problem, this is a good reason for not using sockets.

#2686 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I think you found your problem, this is a good reason for not using sockets.

So--- resolder the back of the socket?
Replace the socket?
Or bend the legs out a little bit on the chip and reinsert?

#2687 2 years ago

Only you can tell if this socket is any good still. Pull the chip and look at the socket leafs, have they been damaged from the corrosion. Was it just poorly installed and needs to be reflowed? These connections needs to be 100% reliable.

#2688 2 years ago

Thanks grumpy.
We got over 5" more of rain last night.
Still stunned at how insane this weather event is.

You guys are awesome with all of your help with games.
Much appreciated.

#2689 2 years ago

Wow that 12 inches in 24 hrs. Do you need a snorkel yet? I hope things work out for the best for you and yours.

#2690 2 years ago

Thanks Grumpy.

Ok had time to pull U50 bend the pins a bit and re seat.
Now my flippers are working again!!!!
Very happy camper.
Only 3 issues left.

1. No slingshot scoring or sling coil activity.
2. No pop bumper.
3. One entire segment out on player 1 and player 3. Same segment on both, they are stacked one on top the other.
It is the 5th segment from the left on each.

Will have time for 1 and 2 later. Hoping it is just wiring or switch issue.
Edit... All wiring, diodes and coils look good on both slings and pop.

#2691 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Last one I would change is the slam tilt diode on the coin door.

OK GRUMP,
That one didn't change anything either, however, while flipping the left flipper alone again and again (in game mode), and no balls rolling around at all, I noticed that the phonetic alphabet inserts (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, Delta, Echo...etc.) are one by one lighting up until they are all lit up and I get a KILL!
WTF??

#2692 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

OK GRUMP,
That one didn't change anything either, however, while flipping the left flipper alone again and again (in game mode), and no balls rolling around at all, I noticed that the phonetic alphabet inserts (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, Delta, Echo...etc.) are one by one lighting up until they are all lit up and I get a KILL!
WTF??

Crap. It looks like the easy ideas are not working. Time to check them all now, that's a lot of fun. The alpha, bravo, Charlie sounds like a switch is set to tight. Vibration from the flipper is causing a switch to register.

#2693 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Crap. It looks like the easy ideas are not working. Time to check them all now, that's a lot of fun. The alpha, bravo, Charlie sounds like a switch is set to tight. Vibration from the flipper is causing a switch to register.

So just check all the switch contacts for too close togetherness?

#2694 2 years ago

Check the two standup targets just above the outhole drain area. Hitting those while the Kill lamp is on will spot one kill. Associated with that are the 2 inlane switches, so check those too.

Finally, hit the left out lane switch to fire the rescue coil, then see if Rescue delights in the Outland when hitting the flippers. If so, those same two center targets also serve that function so it would make them even more suspicious.

#2695 2 years ago

Yagof switch#55 will light the alpha and bravo lights. Check this for being to close. That being said you should check diodes on switches 49 and 50.

#2696 2 years ago

Ok, Will do this tomorrow after work.
Thanks much to both of you guys!

#2697 2 years ago

If anyone is looking for a F14 PM me.

#2698 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

1. No slingshot scoring or sling coil activity.

Quoted from Arcade:

2. No pop bumper.

These are most likely a problem with U-50 still. A trace on top of the board from pin 6 U-50 connects all 4 enables on U-45 together. I think this trace is not making contact with the pin of the socket which will kill all of the other 4 special solenoids. You can check this easy by checking ohms between pin 6 of U-50 and pin 6 of U-45. Should read 1 ohm or less.

Quoted from Arcade:One entire segment out on player 1 and player 3. Same segment on both, they are stacked one on top the other.
It is the 5th segment from the left on each.

You will need a logic probe for checking this, you lock the display on any number and test 1J1 connector for low pulses.

#2699 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

These are most likely a problem with U-50 still. A trace on top of the board from pin 6 U-50 connects all 4 enables on U-45 together. I think this trace is not making contact with the pin of the socket which will kill all of the other 4 special solenoids. You can check this easy by checking ohms between pin 6 of U-50 and pin 6 of U-45. Should read 1 ohm or less.

You will need a logic probe for checking this, you lock the display on any number and test 1J1 connector for low pulses.

As usual, Awesome info Grumpy.
Thanks.

And just to make sure I am counting my pins correctly, from my photo above pin 6 would be the second pin from the left on the top row of U50. Correct?
If my memory is right on this you count from the white dot on the board, notched end of the chip and go all the way around.

#2700 2 years ago

Correct, counter clockwise from the notch.

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