(Topic ID: 66172)
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F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
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A couple questions from a new owner!
My adjustments menu is missing some of the documented settings. It reports L-5 as the version. What was the final version of the F14 software? Planetary only has L-1 on the web site.
How do you get to the flashers on the back wall of the playfield? From the rear somehow or do the domes come off the front?
Thanks!
München
Newmarket, ON
Wodonga
Why ??
The bulbs are not connected as I know ..... and the panel is not original anyway ... so it makes no sense ....
It's a Milionaire Board that commits a Bonus/Level and Coin counter.
F-14 doesn't have that, early production units have bigger boards but no Bonus/Level or Coin Counter.
My machine described above in post #2468-2480 was indeed the 5 volt power supply after having it rebuilt its running so good I damaged a spring on a flipper lol
Charleston, SC
Quoted from doodlesdaddy:Just figured out my Tomcat is a really early one. #54 or so out of 14500
Can you show some photos of the cab and back flashers ?
I think there were a lot more "early" F14s than people realize. I have one with Proto Roms, clear back flashers, wiring for the extra flasher, and I'm sure some other details as well. Not sure on my production number, but those things don't seem all that rare as some others on here have said they have the same thing.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Can you show some photos of the cab and back flashers ?
Quoted from Puffdanny:Mine also says 554 so I don't think that means what you think it does
94222 was the first one so My 94276 would be 54th. 554 is the game designation. All from the pinball serial number database so hopefully correct
Quoted from doodlesdaddy:94222 was the first one so My 94276 would be 54th. 554 is the game designation. All from the pinball serial number database so hopefully correct
Wow. What a bizarre coincidence.
If anyone is looking for a set of plastics for F-14, I bought one a couple years ago before I sold my game.
Added over 7 years ago: *** These are now sold ***
My F-14 was 1,445 in production and it still has the clear flasher domes and extra red flasher wiring as well as no light boards and larger score display etc..
Quoted from Kawydud:If anyone is looking for a set of plastics for F-14, I bought one a couple years ago before I sold my game.
I need an extra right slingshot plastic if anyone has one they can spare?
Quoted from shirkle:I think there were a lot more "early" F14s than people realize. I have one with Proto Roms, clear back flashers, wiring for the extra flasher, and I'm sure some other details as well. Not sure on my production number, but those things don't seem all that rare as some others on here have said they have the same thing.
I believe this as well. I also had a proto roms/clear flasher version a couple years back. It seems like I've seen just as many clear flasher games as red, and the one I just picked up recently at random has...you guessed it, clear flashers.
OK Grumpy,
Your advise about U11 was correct. It is repaired and pop bumper now works correctly in coil test mode. However, I have tried everything to get it working right from the spoon switch in game mode and even with skirt centered exactly on spoon and switch gaped to 1/16" it will only fire intermittently. The spoon switch is new as is every component of the pop bumper assembly. The capacitor is new and correct value. Resistor is also new (100 ohm). I have ordered new IDC connectors and the hand punch tool. Hopefully this may repair the problem. Can't imagine what else to do.
Thanks so much for your help!!
Quoted from StylesBitchly:Your advise about U11 was correct.
I get lucky once in a while. 
Quoted from StylesBitchly:I have tried everything to get it working right from the spoon switch in game mode
Have you checked the height of the switch? If you don't have enough spacers on the switch stack you maybe adding pressure to the skirt pin causing it to drag. If too many spacers the skirt will move a bit before the spoon does causing it to be unresponsive. Spacers that come with a new switch is only to get you in the ballpark, you may need to add or remove as needed. They come in 1/8 1/16 and 1/32 of an inch. And you can also use card stock to make your own = to 1/64.
Hello fellow F-14s...!
So, last night, after several hours of having the machine on, my beacons stopped working, no light, no rotation, nada. I checked the fuse in the backbox and this one is fine, I have read that the relay of the snubber board might have die, is there a way I can confirm that the relay or board died? Lastly, any good source of where to find a new snubber board/relay? I cannot find one with the usual suspects.
Any help will be greatly apprecited!
TIA!
~ja
Quoted from uncle_jose:is there a way I can confirm that the relay or board died?
Put game in coil test and stop at beacons, you should hear the relay clicking.
Quoted from uncle_jose:source of where to find a new snubber board/relay?
I just fix the one I have.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I get lucky once in a while.
Have you checked the height of the switch? If you don't have enough spacers on the switch stack you maybe adding pressure to the skirt pin causing it to drag. If too many spacers the skirt will move a bit before the spoon does causing it to be unresponsive. Spacers that come with a new switch is only to get you in the ballpark, you may need to add or remove as needed. They come in 1/8 1/16 and 1/32 of an inch. And you can also use card stock to make your own = to 1/64.
I completely disassembled the stack switch and reconfigured it like the original with spoon switch at very bottom where it rests on mounting bracket. This is as close to perfect as I can get it. The skirt pin is centered in spoon and at rest, is not pushing but just touching. This is why I think it is a wiring problem causing signal loss at MPU. Most likely the old IDC connector. New ones are ordered. I will report back with findings.
Cheers!
Quoted from StylesBitchly:Most likely the old IDC connector.
A new board should have new connectors installed, but don't forget the molex connector on the harness in the cabinet.
Quoted from GRUMPY:A new board should have new connectors installed, but don't forget the molex connector on the harness in the cabinet.
GRUMPY,
You were right about spoon position. I needed to add a 1/32" shim between spoon and mounting bracket to get it just right. It was dragging the skirt pin a little. Amazing how perfect these have to be to work right!
Well, I was right about the wiring to spoon switch. It was a bad connection at the female IDC connector. Pop bumper now working correctly. I must be cursed, because no sooner did I finally get the stupid-ass pop bumper fixed, then the VUK stopped working. Guess what? Another bad IDC connector. The IDC Wire Insertion Tool I bought off Pinball Life sucks. It works, but very hard to make work right. And hard on your hand. I didn't want to deal with crimping, so I just bought new IDC connectors. None of the IDC connectors in the back box are blackened. They all look fine, but now I found two of them that had bad wire connections.
Now on to installing the LED OCD!!! Yay!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks once again GRUMPY. You know your stuff!
I use that same IDC connector. lol
It is indeed hard on the hands.
We had 4, 9 pin IDC connectors that were clipped off our F-14.
My brother and I traded off after each connector because our arms were killing us.
We did make the process easier by using a small piece of wood in our other hand to press against.
But sometimes the wires were so short it was a real magic act to get it done.
This is the tool I got from Swinks. I like it and it will last a life time.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:Pop bumper now working correctly.
Glad to hear it.
Quoted from Arcade:I use that same IDC connector. lol
It is indeed hard on the hands.
We had 4, 9 pin IDC connectors that were clipped off our F-14.
My brother and I traded off after each connector because our arms were killing us.
We did make the process easier by using a small piece of wood in our other hand to press against.
But sometimes the wires were so short it was a real magic act to get it done.
Glad it's not just me!
Good idea about the small piece of wood!
Well tonight was the first time in almost 3 years (since I bought it) that I got to play on a fully restored and 100% working (well almost) F-14! What a rush!! This game rocks with all the LEDs and Pinball Pro speakers and extras! I haven't installed the LED OCD yet but WOW! What a blast! The playfield protector sure as hell does not slow it down. My only problem left now is to figure out why I am getting random tilts when racking up lots of points. It happened twice (no nudging at all) and I haven't yet nailed down the conditions as to when it happened. Just when lots of lights are going off and racking up points.
Any suggestions?
Quoted from GRUMPY:This is the tool I got from Swinks. I like it and it will last a life time.
Glad to hear it.
Cool!
I will order one.
Mine would slam tilt when I would be having a good game usually around multi ball.it's described and diagnosed a few pages back.turned out to be the 5v power supply on mine.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:I haven't yet nailed down the conditions as to when it happened.
You could have a bad diode or two, or as Puffdanny has suggested you may have a low 5 or 12 volt condition.
you could also search for "phantom tilt". That is where I found my solution. It was a bad scrc6 resistor on the MPU. The Pinside Forum Topic title for this fix is "f14 slam tilt issue...". Hope you figure it out.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:Pop bumper now working correctly.
Let me know if you want to have more pop in your pop.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Let me know if you want to have more pop in your pop.
Hell yes. It's lame!
Well, I figured out what is causing the phantom tilts. These are not slam tilts, but regular loose ball only tilts. It happens when I quickly, alternately trigger the Left flipper and Left sling. I can reproduce it every time in game mode. Doesn't have to be multi-ball or anything special. I can't see anything wrong with wiring and I did replace the capacitors on both slings with 22uF 25V.
Also want to mention that I installed a new Rottendog power source as well as a Rottendog MPU board, so not going to be a voltage problem. 5 Volt is good. Pinscore display is working perfectly. My original power source had a bad voltage regulator and I didn't feel like messing with an IC chip replacement so I sold it on ebay and bought the Rottendog PSU. Nice test points and it fixed my dead LED segments on Pinscore. I suppose it could be another (you guessed it) bad IDC connector? F**K Me if it is!
Any further suggestions appreciated..
Quoted from StylesBitchly:Hell yes. It's lame!
You can use or make your own high current driver for this coil. Then run this coil on 50 volts instead of 25 volts. Not very hard to do.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:alternately trigger the Left flipper and Left sling
Replace the diodes on both.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Diodes on the coils.
Both left and right sling coils?
OK will do.
Thanks GRUMPY!
Not sure what you mean about high current driver for pop bumper coil though?
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