Check U-19 pin 2 with a logic probe in attract mode, then start a game and see if it changes.
(Topic ID: 66172)
Linked Games
F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
Topic Gallery
Thank you so much for the help. I did buy a logic probe today because I figured I would need it. But, I never used one before so please bear with me. I will attempt this tomorrow. Must sleep now.
Yea I just got home from work and am getting ready to go to bed too. Using a logic probe is real easy and makes trouble shooting a breeze.
Beaumont, TX
Thanks for the photos.
I have mine situated correct now but close up photos like this always help.
I have noticed they used Red/White wires on some F-14's and on others like mine they used a Violet/yellow wire.
I have already flipped my coils over because they were indeed installed upside down and replaced them with new coils with diodes.
Have not gotten to test them out yet because the CPU was a mess behind the Q77 and Q79 area. So much so that it was beyond my repair ability. So I am waiting for it to come back in the mail soon.
Quoted from Arcade:Thanks for the photos.
I have mine situated correct now but close up photos like this always help.
I have noticed they used Red/White wires on some F-14's and on others like mine they used a Violet/yellow wire.
I have already flipped my coils over because they were indeed installed upside down and replaced them with new coils with diodes.
Have not gotten to test them out yet because the CPU was a mess behind the Q77 and Q79 area. So much so that it was beyond my repair ability. So I am waiting for it to come back in the mail soon.
Yes, my F-14 is a real early run. Everything but the "X" in the serial# and the prototype paint job. I suppose there are also wire color differences.
Good luck with board.
I bought a Rottendog MPU board because the original was so roached by previous "experts" making repairs. Now I may have blown chips on it. Oh the pain!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Check U-19 pin 2 with a logic probe in attract mode, then start a game and see if it changes.
OK,
Pin #2 on U-19 is giving both red and green light at same time in both attract mode and after I start game. No change.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Have you read Terryb guide to logic probes?
I am reading it now. This is the logic probe I have. Is it ok? There is no separate yellow LED?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B4NCUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
I think this probe is only good for 12 volts systems such as automotive testing. I use something like this.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj1kvWz9_zUAhUOeH4KHcTyBT0YABAIGgJwYw&sig=AOD64_2C-Wbtibcd1CcDzK9rjRjT5rSPVg&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwi5tNmz9_zUAhXo3YMKHWZdC6QQvhcILg&adurl=
Quoted from GRUMPY:I think this probe is only good for 12 volts systems such as automotive testing. I use something like this.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj1kvWz9_zUAhUOeH4KHcTyBT0YABAIGgJwYw&sig=AOD64_2C-Wbtibcd1CcDzK9rjRjT5rSPVg&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwi5tNmz9_zUAhXo3YMKHWZdC6QQvhcILg&adurl=
Ok, it's on order from Amazon. Will have it in a few days. Please stand by. LOL.
Thanks
I was doing a nationwide Craigslist search for project pins and I found a fully working F-14 listed in Green Bay for $95. I thought that I would share with this forum.
"F-14 Tomcat Pinball Machine. Excellent condition, cosmetically and functionally. Everything works. This is a fun, 4-player machine with lots of action. Four flippers, multiball, flashers, speech (that taunts you), revolving flasher domes on top. Coin changer works. Original backglass."
Quoted from bluespin:F-14 listed in Green Bay for $95
Looks like they corrected the price to $975.
Quoted from ajfclark:Looks like they corrected the price to $975.
Still A Good price
GRUMPY,
It looks like Q10 is the FET controlling the pop bumper (special solenoid) on Rottendog board (CN19 Pin 6). I was incorrectly thinking Q69. Is there a way to test Q10 without removing it?
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_F-14_Tomcat_Tech_Chart.pdf
Quoted from StylesBitchly:I was incorrectly thinking Q69.
You said earlier that the coil doesn't lock on until you start a game or diagnostics so this tells me that the FET Q-10 is fine. This is why I wanted you to get a logic probe.
Quoted from GRUMPY:It is Q-69 on a Williams board. And its Q-10 on a Rottendog board.
You said earlier that the coil doesn't lock on until you start a game or diagnostics so this tells me that the FET Q-10 is fine. This is why I wanted you to get a logic probe.
Ya, I can't find anything wrong with Q10 or wire. Funny that there is a Q69 on the Rottendog board too. Probe is on it's way.
Does anyone know why both of my roll under switches in the upper loop are getting stuck in one direction in the upward position after ball passes through. I'm thinking that the feather switches may need to be repositioned?
Either you have to reposition the switch or clean them.
Often the small cam switch is hooked by dust, or the switch is burned.
Quoted from Averell:Either you have to reposition the switch or clean them.
Often the small cam switch is hooked by dust, or the switch is burned.
Solved!
These feather switches are both brand new. Being that this is a repro play field, the holes are not in exactly the same place. I just epoxied the feather switch holes over and will reposition them and drill new holes. This is my problem on both roll unders.
Cheers!
GRUMPY,
I just got my "Elenco LP-560" probe in.
I rechecked U-19 pin 2 with a logic probe in attract mode, and after starting a game, and still get both red and green lights at same time as well as blinking yellow light in both modes..No change between modes.
Quoted from GRUMPY:What does U-11 pin 18 show in attract mode and in a game?
OK,
In attract mode I have Low, and during game High. No pulse on either.
Quoted from GRUMPY:This should stay low until the skirt switch closes. Is this chip socketed?
Chip is not socketed.
Hold on. I counted the pins counter clockwise from pin 1 (chip indicator mark) to pin eighteen. I did compensate for chip being upside-down. Is this correct? Also, I measured connected to 5V on TTL setting.
Also, the pop bumper skirt switch is closing according to my DMM continuity test, but will not show up in switch edge test or switch levels test.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:but will not show up in switch edge test or switch levels test.
This maybe where the problem is starting from. Doesn't RD boards only fire a coil once if a switch is stuck closed.
Quoted from GRUMPY:This maybe where the problem is starting from. Doesn't RD boards only fire a coil once if a switch is stuck closed.
I am pretty sure that is correct. Even Williams System 11A "Big Guns" and later had that ability.
Please understand that with my DMM connected to the spoon switch, it is only closed when I push on the skirt. One released, switch opens. So switch is ok. I did install a new electrolytic polarized cap on it. The same uF and voltage value (22uF and 25V ). The resistor in series with it is good as well (100 ohms).
Read this: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Special_solenoid_problems
"Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor."
Quoted from StylesBitchly:You still out there?
I'm back, check pin 9 of U-24 in attract mode and in a game.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Check pin 2 of U-11 in attract mode and in a game.
OK,
U-11 pin2 is High in both modes. No pulsing.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:U-11 pin2 is High in both modes
This is what it should be. So lets recap here, U-11 input pin 2 stays high in game mode but its output pin 18 switches from a low (correct signal) to a high. This leads me to believe that U-11 is bad. But remember I'm no RD expert.
Quoted from GRUMPY:This is what it should be. So lets recap here, U-11 input pin 2 stays high in game mode but its output pin 18 switches from a low (correct signal) to a high. This leads me to believe that U-11 is bad. But remember I'm no RD expert.
OK,
I have already ordered a couple logic chips for U-11 and sockets for it. Also a couple MOSFETS for Q10. I will probably take it to this TV electronics shop I talked to to have the socket put in. I am afraid to attempt this. So I will report back with results.
Do you think I should send it in to Rottendog instead?
Thanks
Quoted from GRUMPY:It's good to have a few spares on hand for the future, but Q-10 is still working correctly.
Yes, I won't change it. But like you said, it's good to have extras.
Thanks again!
Here are some photos of my F-14. I added the decal set, the USSR stickers, and for a $3 roll of American Flag duct tape, some really cool looking side "blades".
Newmarket, ON
You'll regret that as it goes out the door for sure. I'm in same situation. Need to make room, but that one has to stay.
Quoted from volkdrive:You'll regret that as it goes out the door for sure. I'm in same situation. Need to make room, but that one has to stay.
Yeah, there is just something about it that says "KEEP ME " !!
Quoted from Puffdanny:One of my cheapest yet favorite in the collection
Yep, one of the best bang for your buck pins out there !
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
