(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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There are 4072 posts in this topic. You are on page 51 of 82.
#2501 2 years ago

Thanks for the help. Cut the 330's and flashers working. Played around and with LED's the back flashers worked again as before. Playing with #6 got a faint glow, so think the socket is bad...will try to clean it and see what happens. Pretty sure #4 is a solder issue. I stink at soldering and after 3 tries have failed. So, perhaps this weekend I will just take the time and do some soldering practice on some spare wires. Moving too fast for my skill level. But enjoying it. It's an addiction I never saw coming. Thanks for all the help. Will check back in when I have an update.

#2502 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

I stink at soldering and after 3 tries have failed.

Get some paste flux, it will help.

#2503 2 years ago

Make sure to heat it up properly also.

One very easy method is to first apply some solder on both joints. Let it cool slightly for a few seconds and then apply heat to the board. Put the new piece to the solder joint and watch the solder melt together. Done.

#2504 2 years ago

I added the Ice Man and Maverick patches to give it a little nod to Top Gun. I found these on eBay. Seller shipped them fast and I had them in about 4 days.

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#2505 2 years ago

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#2506 2 years ago

Finally got my project F14 going. A quick question about the sound.

The voice and sound effects are very loud relative to the music. If I adjust the pot to get the music to a decent level the sound effects are way too loud. Does anyone no if an adjustment to raise the music level in game?

Thanks!

#2507 2 years ago

I just jumped into this club as well. Is there an adjustment to limit the Jackpot to make it more balanced in a tournament?
Or is it possible to increase the number of Landings to a very high level before a Jackpot is awarded?

Added over 2 years ago: It seems that there is no Tournament setting or other way to limit the progressive jackpot or to make it more difficult to acheive directly. Just the usual game settings.

#2508 2 years ago

Finally joined the club yesterday. After helping fix an F14 one town over from my a few months ago I finally came across another one for sale as a project. It is indeed a project, but I should be able to get it working eventually. The seller says the displays work and the game plays but he robbed three molex connectors from the backbox that I have to rewire. It is missing 3 rollover switches. The coin door buttons are messed up and the usual divertor coils are a problem. I think that is the worst of it.
It has the usual mylar bubbling over the inserts.
I will no doubt eventually start my own tech thread once I dive deeper into it.
Here are a few photos.

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#2509 2 years ago

Looks like its in prety nice shape overall Arcade. Welcome to the club !

#2510 2 years ago

Just started my tech thread. Here is a direct link to it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-switch-help-and-wiring-help-needed

What I really need are two photos.
The underside of the ball trough area showing the switches and how they are wired.
And one of the plugs on the power board showing the wiring order. I believe it is 3J3.
The photos is the thread show exactly what I need.

Then if anyone knows where to get the switches from that I need, that would be awesome. None of the part numbers from the manual show in stock anywhere.
Thanks.

#2511 2 years ago

Well I finally installed my F-14 decals with the metal leg protectors and the legs still dug into the decals and cut them, but below the protectors.. It appears that they may have cheapened up the leg protectors by making them thinner metal. Had they been thicker, this wouldn't have happened. I bought these protectors from Pinball Life "Metal Cabinet Protectors (set of 4) 535-0599-00" I should have checked closer before tightening them down. But this is B.S. So be warned. The legs are brand new Williams system 11 legs too. Sorry no picture.

#2512 2 years ago

Why bother? Just cut up a new "foam" dishwash cloth for no money. Ultra effective.

#2513 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Well I finally installed my F-14 decals with the metal leg protectors and the legs still dug into the decals and cut them,

I restored a Mousin Around about a year ago and bought a set of the metal protectors, I could tell that the leg was still too close to the cabinet on the first one I installed so I stopped and ordered another set and doubled them up....I haven't had any problems at all with the new decals wrinkling. I also cut around the new protectors and removed the decal film from under the leg protectors. no issues what so ever.

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#2514 2 years ago

That's exactly the only way to protect the decals.
Use metal protector and first cut the decal at that area.

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-1
#2515 2 years ago

F-14 has no decals .... sorry ... could not resist ...

#2516 2 years ago

My F-14 already has decals... possibly most owner use stencil kits or repaint, but decal is an Option.

#2517 2 years ago
Quoted from TomDK:

F-14 has no decals .... sorry ... could not resist ...

No Shit!

#2518 2 years ago

Yes, I did trim the decals around the protectors. It wrinkles down lower where the legs touch. If the protectors where thicker this wouldn't happen. The legs dig right into the cabinet. I thought of doubling them up. So that's the solution then.

#2519 2 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

My F-14 already has decals... possibly most owner use stencil kits or repaint, but decal is an Option.

There are no stencils for F-14
I was going to go at it with frisket and my air brush, but the work load was too much and I suck at air brushing any way.

#2520 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I was going to go at it with frisket and my air brush, but the work load was too much and I suck at air brushing any way.

That's how I did mine and it came out great. I certainly am no artist with an airbrush, but it is a great little spray gun.

#2521 2 years ago

TomDK did a very well paint job some weeks ago on a F-14.

#2522 2 years ago

Here's a photo of the front of my repainted F-14. Took this photo to show the repair I did to the front. This was done by slicing off the bad, then sectioning in a new piece of plywood along the bottom.

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#2523 2 years ago

I has luck .. my F-14 was not completely faded or destroyed. I bought several cans of good paint and tested which color will fit best for red and black. Little white and yellow was brushed. Masked with regular tape.
The whole was coated with a non glossy clearcoat .. also in a can.
The good point: I could rescue the little sticker in the front

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#2524 2 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

I just jumped into this club as well. Is there an adjustment to limit the Jackpot to make it more balanced in a tournament?
Or is it possible to increase the number of Landings to a very high level before a Jackpot is awarded?
Added 9 days ago: It seems that there is no Tournament setting or other way to limit the progressive jackpot or to make it more difficult to acheive directly. Just the usual game settings.

I know High Speed has an unofficial (hacked) "tournament" ROM available that fixes the jackpot at a set value (250K IIRC), my guess is the same thing is out there for F14. Just have to find someone who has it and will send it to you to burn.

#2525 2 years ago

I really did a lot of prep work on the cabinet before installing the decals. It turned out almost perfect. I used the dry method. They aren't kidding when they say every little flaw shows! Then of course the legs have to dig in. Oh well. No biggy.

#2526 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I really did a lot of prep work on the cabinet before installing the decals. It turned out almost perfect. I used the dry method. They aren't kidding when they say every little flaw shows! Then of course the legs have to dig in. Oh well. No biggy.

Which art did you use (from which company)? The only part of mine that truly needs redone is the front, but stenciling it is tough because it keeps pulling up original layers of paint. I even clearcoated it, but then when I used frisket and cut it, it cut through the clear and still pulled up previous layers. It's pretty frustrating. I'm considering decals now, but my sides are nice enough to just touch up.

#2527 2 years ago

Have any of you added spotlights to this game? It seems so dark and it's very hard to see the ball when it's bouncing around up near the top, by the pop bumper. I'd love to see some ideas of locations of where to place a spot or two.

#2528 2 years ago
Quoted from Minneapolispin:

Have any of you added spotlights to this game? It seems so dark and it's very hard to see the ball when it's bouncing around up near the top, by the pop bumper. I'd love to see some ideas of locations of where to place a spot or two.

Wow! add spot lamps, really? ...Mine was so bright (with CT premium LEDs) that I needed sunglasses to play it! And I didn't even have LED flash bulbs in it.

#2529 2 years ago

I'm also thinking about adding a spotlight or two. I agree that it's a bit dark up top. You must have the super bright LE edition wayout.

#2530 2 years ago

Just fired up my project F-14 for the first time. (Had a lot of issues to tackle first)
Good news it boots up.
But I noticed that two of the little square segments on the display are not on.
One in the top left and one in the bottom left.
What should I check first to maybe get these working again?
All the rest of the segments are bright and good.

#2531 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Just fired up my project F-14 for the first time. (Had a lot of issues to tackle first)
Good news it boots up.
But I noticed that two of the little square segments on the display are not on.
One in the top left and one in the bottom left.
What should I check first to maybe get these working again?
All the rest of the segments are bright and good.

Start with reseating - more appropriately, replacing - the score display ribbon cable. 9 times out of 10 faulty cable will cause various problems with the score displays. You can reseat or wiggle and sometimes get them to work, but likely that a flaky cable will fail again later is high. Replacement insures the connectors get a nice, gas tight seal between male and female pins.

The next step would be to take a look at this link:
Partial Segment Failures on Score Displays and on down the page.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm#display

#2532 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Start with reseating - more appropriately, replacing - the score display ribbon cable. 9 times out of 10 faulty cable will cause various problems with the score displays. You can reseat or wiggle and sometimes get them to work, but likely that a flaky cable will fail again later is high. Replacement insures the connectors get a nice, gas tight seal between male and female pins.
The next step would be to take a look at this link:
Partial Segment Failures on Score Displays and on down the page.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm#display

Thanks wayout440.

#2533 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

But I noticed that two of the little square segments on the display are not on.
One in the top left and one in the bottom left.

Would this be the same segments on both displays #1 and #3?

#2534 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Would this be the same segments on both displays #1 and #3?

Yes. One on top the other

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#2535 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Yes. One on top the other

Is that the machine plugged into that white extension cord?
....not that it would have anything to do with the display

#2536 2 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

Is that the machine plugged into that white extension cord?
....not that it would have anything to do with the display

Yes. Extension cord is the only way to get power to the games in the work area.
The room has 16 pinball machines in it so I can't get it near an outlet when I work on them.
It is grounded though. I have never had an issue with this in over 25 years of repairing games.

#2537 2 years ago

If someone could take some close up photos of how these two diverter coils should be wired up and oriented it would help me a lot.
Looks like from the photo below someone has put the coils on upside down and spliced into the purple/yellow wire to only have to run one Purple/yellow to each coil. (Will that work?)
Also are these coils supposed to have diodes or no diodes.
Photos of a working games diverter coils are really needed.
I have two new coils with diodes, just don't want to install wrong. I already have to replace the tip and pre driver.

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#2538 2 years ago

To tell whether its the CPU or the display board, lock the displays on all 8s and check 1J1 pins 1-7 with your logic probe and see if they are all pulsing. If you find one that isn't pulsing then remove the connector and retest. If you still find one that is not pulsing then check src-7. If they all are pulsing then the display board needs testing.

#2539 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Looks like from the photo below someone has put the coils on upside down and spliced into the purple/yellow wire to only have to run one Purple/yellow to each coil. (Will that work?)

Yes as long as the splice is good.

Quoted from Arcade:Also are these coils supposed to have diodes or no diodes

Diodes, yes a must. Silver band towards the purple/yellow wire.

Quoted from Arcade:I already have to replace the tip and pre driver.

I have install a 1.5 amp fuse on each of these coils on my game to stop this from happening.

#2540 2 years ago

Thanks Grumpy.
Awesome info.
I have 3 pulled out switches I am replacing now. But when I'm done with them I will tackle the two diverter coils and the display segments

#2541 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Yes. Extension cord is the only way to get power to the games in the work area.
The room has 16 pinball machines in it so I can't get it near an outlet when I work on them.
It is grounded though. I have never had an issue with this in over 25 years of repairing games.

I was just having flashbacks from a couple weeks ago when I unloaded an older Bally ss.
I sat it down on the ground after I unloaded it and plugged the cord (someone cut the ground prong off) into my grounded extension cord. I went to open the coin door and it shocked the piss out of me.....I haven't looked yet to see what is shorted or grounded.

#2542 2 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

I was just having flashbacks from a couple weeks ago when I unloaded an older Bally ss.
I sat it down on the ground after I unloaded it and plugged the cord (someone cut the ground prong off) into my grounded extension cord. I went to open the coin door and it shocked the piss out of me.....I haven't looked yet to see what is shorted or grounded.

Been there, done that. lol
We once got a Xenon that someone had wired the plug up backwards. (they had put the ground on a hot prong)
It actually worked until you accidentally leaned on two machines next to each other.

#2543 2 years ago

I

#2544 2 years ago

Take a picture of the pop coil.

#2545 2 years ago
Quoted from Minneapolispin:

Have any of you added spotlights to this game? It seems so dark and it's very hard to see the ball when it's bouncing around up near the top, by the pop bumper. I'd love to see some ideas of locations of where to place a spot or two.

I put a clamp lamp with a 25watt bulb on the ceiling off to the side (so it won't reflect off of playfield glass). This helped a lot! Also, too bright of LEDS can make the problem worse. This is another reason I'm planning to install a LED OCD in mine. To dim the overly bright LED's that I used. F-14 is not a game for a dark room! The playfield is just too dark for that, and the game is too freakin fast!

#2546 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Which art did you use (from which company)? The only part of mine that truly needs redone is the front, but stenciling it is tough because it keeps pulling up original layers of paint. I even clearcoated it, but then when I used frisket and cut it, it cut through the clear and still pulled up previous layers. It's pretty frustrating. I'm considering decals now, but my sides are nice enough to just touch up.

I got my decals at Bay Area Amusements. Very nice!

#2547 2 years ago

Rebuilt pop bumper. Now I have pop bumper power locking on in diagnostic mode, not power on. It blows the 2.5A fuse on lower right under play field. I have a Rottendog MPU (System 11A) driver board. Can't find any shorted transistors with diode test to ground strap. And the Mosfets seem ok even though my DMM (diode test) will not turn them on. The Q69 (pop bumper) transistor is a TIP107 and appears good (no short from tab to ground strap). Coil and diode are good. Stack switch is removed.
Any suggestions please?

#2548 2 years ago

I would need a schematic for a RD board to be sure. Not sure what RD has changed from the original system 11A board.

#2549 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

If someone could take some close up photos of how these two diverter coils should be wired up and oriented it would help me a lot.
Looks like from the photo below someone has put the coils on upside down and spliced into the purple/yellow wire to only have to run one Purple/yellow to each coil. (Will that work?)
Also are these coils supposed to have diodes or no diodes.
Photos of a working games diverter coils are really needed.
I have two new coils with diodes, just don't want to install wrong. I already have to replace the tip and pre driver.

IMG_0665 (resized).JPG

IMG_0668 (resized).JPG

#2550 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I would need a schematic for a RD board to be sure. Not sure what RD has changed from the original system 11A board.

http://rottendog.us/MPU004.pdf

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