Just a small tip, forget about placing those bridge rectifiers back in.
Replace them with a new Bridge Board.
I've got a series of pictures on my website how to do this.
Bridge Boards are available at Big Daddy Enterprises and Marco Specialties.
Also add fuses for the special solenoids while you're at it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/special-solenoid-saver-board-for-wms-3-7#post-3446995

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

Yes, Inkochnito's Bridge is a great replacement and a must have.

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I dig the red.. how do I get one of these ramps?

Sending pm

Are they easy to install? Do you need to remove the old ones from the powerboard?

Yes you have to remove the two old rectifiers and replace them with the board.
Further more you have to disconnect the big capacitor.
I left it in the BB, but of course you can remove it, it has no more function.
At all, it's very easy to install.
The benefit next to the new rectifiers is that the wiring is fused.

Thank for the heads up on this rectifiers. I will do that. And keep the capacitor. It looks cool. Lol

I have had 2 times in the last 2 months where I shoot a ball up the launch and the ball stays in the VUK and the single fuse in the backbox blows. Maybe 8-10 hrs of playtime between fuses. Just curious if there is something I should check as to the cause or if it's just one of those things? Fuse did what it should? Searching around I found old posts that a bad diode on the solenoid could do it but wouldn't that be more often? If this is symptoms of something else I'd like to get it before some bigger issues come up.

Hello all, I'm working on a bunch of repairs on a friend's F14. I have fixed several issues, but the last two are getting the better of me. First, the Yagov kickback rarely fires back. In switch edge test, rolling the ball up there a bunch will get maybe one trigger every 10 times. If I list the PF up and touch on the back side of the switch, it will see it every time. The switch looks like it's pretty close, but maybe it's not close enough.

Next thing, the left sling is locked on. The main transistor was bad, so I replaced that. Power up, locked on again so I quickly powered off. The pre-driver transistor tests fine, so is it now likely a chip? I'm searching for a logic probe locally to check that route. Just wondering if anyone has EXP with this issue.

Thanks.

Have you measured the resistance on the left sling coil itself. It could be shorted.

You need to check the switch input, a closed contact from a sling rubber being to tight or a shorted zener diode will cause this.

There is 7 or 8 coils on this fuse, you need to ohm each one and compare it to the coil resistance chart. One of these coils is drawing to much current.

3.8ohm on the locked on side, 3.9 on a functioning side, so that's ok.

I see that ZR 4 is the one controlling this? I checked that against another and they are measuring the same. I took the sling rubber off and with J19 plugged in it locks on, but... Looks like the transistor is dead again. Black left, red center read 0.000V where a good one reads open. Are these frying instantly, or do I have a second before the cook like coils? These are TIP 102.

I'm getting a 5V (well, 4.78V) reading across the back right tab of the sling switches to the front left tab and I don't think that should be the case. I got continuity there where I did not on the right side. It's the tab with the cap on it and the tab in the opposite corner (if each tab of the two different switches were a corner). I'm also getting a tingle and a 4.78V reading on the trim pieces. Maybe they are related. I will post a picture in the next post. As you can see they are not connected unless the switches close, but with the rubber off, they are both as wide open as they can be.

As promised.

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Yes they can, its always best to remove the control wire from the coil for testing until the problem is solved. Once this is done you can check the switch input with a voltmeter. Install the sling rubber and check the 2 switches for adjustment. Then check for voltage on pin 12 of U-45 in attract mode, should be 5 volts DC then push on the sling rubber and the voltage should drop to zero volts. Then check the voltage on pin 11, it should be 2 volts and higher. Lastly check pin 13 and it should be below .8 volts DC. Let me know what you find.

Hi all,
Picked up our first machine and it is F14. 3 of the 4 displays are out, and, having a few people look at it (I have almost no experience fixing machines), we've been told we most likely need to replace the display. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy? Can you ever find people selling them, or is ordering from something like pinballlife.com the best way to go?

To repair this 225.00 + labor so I would buy a LED display for your game. These can be had for 200.00 and less and should last your lifetime.

People don't normally resell these items unless they are parting a machine. You can order from PBL, BDE, Bay area amusments and Marcos.
Congrats on your purchase you will love it.

Former F14 owner here... Have an issue with a friend's F14. Here's how we would describe it:

Everything seems to play fine but after a couple balls locked, it will cut off like it loses power and drains all the balls and immediately.
This usually happens when it enters multi-ball but it sometimes does this before when there's a lot of action going on.

After the cut off, it's ready to hit the start button and start another game. Is this a possible power drain from too much power going on causing it to clip and lose everything for a split second? It doesn't need to rebooted when this happens. It started doing it once every 10-15 games and now it seems to do it every game.

Thanks!

This is my F14 that @bcgameguide posted about.I should add in that during multiplayer games I'm getting wierd flight insurance.had one happen on ball 2 and then gave the same player 2 flight insurances on the same ball.

Now you have 2 broke down, will this cause more drinking? This sounds like a power supply issue or a slam tilt. Make sure both slam tilts have a large enough gap so to not cause accidental tilts. If that's not it then put a voltmeter on the 5 volt line and have someone watch it while you play a mutiball. If it drops below 4.8 volts on the CPU you will have resets. Also flip you meter to AC while on the 5 volts test point and see how AC is on the DC signal, should be less than .2 of a volt. Did you ever replace your BR?

GRUMPY yes 2 down and leaving in a few to pick up a Black Belt with a faulty flipper and the sound can barely be heard so let's make that 3 down lol.I wasn't going to post this until I got the WW going so you didn't think all the time you've spent with me was wasted but I talked to BC above and he posted for me so I figured I'd chime in.I was already thinking check the 5volt(seems like it's a common culprit).I have the BR along with capacitors and diodes to rebuild the whole thing but now I can't find my solder.I ordered some the other day using Terry B's advice of 63/37 so hopefully soon WW will be back up.again thanks for the help!!!!!!!!! I've been reading a lot and I'm looking in to taking a few classes at the local community college.they have a few classes I think would benefit me.

I believe these are all my tilt mechanisms.as you can see no ball on the oNE so that can't tilt.the pendulum has a good gap and when activated gives a warning.the one on the door has a wide gap but if activated resets the game as described above(no way that the contacts are touching while playing though).the last pic of the round thing appears to be wired to the tilts but does nothing if I make contact.are there any other tilt/slam tilt mechs?

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The pins are a popping!!!

I'm going to be pro repair man or a broke collector,time will tell.

There is a slam tilt under the p/f around the flippers and on the coin door. The other tilts give a warning but a slam tilts kills the game just like a reset. The last pic is the coin reject coil, this will give you your quarter back if the game is turned off.

Maybe a broke pro.....

Found the playfield tilt (couldn't miss the big label) this one has a huge gap and when triggered it makes a tilt(screen says tilt/audible sound and can't use flippers until the ball is drained)where as the doors slam tilt resets the entire game and screen reads free play as described above.

I'll check voltages tonight

I'm thinking you will have 2 PS to rebuild now.

See page 60a of the manual (note 3).

I just joined the club (didn't pay $2500 -got it for $1600). I can't wait to get it cleaned up and moved to my game area.

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Looks nice, is it restored like she said or just a 5 year old shop out? At any rate it is a great looking F-14

Not restored. She thought she was only the second owner, but I found an operator steel tag attached to the top of the back box. It's on great condition and plays fast.

Congratulation, this Fighter looks really nice for it's age and it's almost complete - some broken parts, but nothing special.
Just clean it up, refit the broken parts and swap some decals - done.

Back in town, so finally able to report back.

U45 Pin 12: 4.88V
Pin 12 when left sling pressed: 4.88V
Pin 12 when right (working) sling pressed: 0V
Pin 11: 4.8V
Pin 13: .113mV

One of two things can cause this,
#1 Q-74 is bad even tho is test good. I usually replace the predriver when I change the driver.
# 2 There is a broken trace between U-45 pin 13 and R-97.

I will investigate. U45 is assumed to be good at this point? I need to stock up on TIP 102s again, so I will get the predriver as well. I will unsolder the sling coil as well. Maybe I will hook up a light instead to the driver and see if I can keep from killing the driver by testing with 5V.

Thanks for the continued help.

This is very important while testing, if your not using the game then unplug 1J19 to remove the control wire.

Not needed, other tests can be done to confirm correct operation before plugging in 1J19.

Hi, new here. Does anyone have a lamp board for the back flashers. I picked up a Tomcat and it is missing this part.

I am back in this club! Happy to have a nice F-14 to play again. Might not be forever, as the local pinsider and friend of mine has a buy back option at 6 months. While in my possession it gets a Dozer1 flipper rebuild and a few other tweaks as per the deal. For the time being, I am back to battling jagov

I measure continuity between U45 pin 13 and R-97. I'm about to replace the pre-driver and the TIP 102. You mention a test that doesn't involve treating TIP 102s like fuses and not requiring a light bulb. Can you clue me in on that?

Sure can, with 1J19 disconnected you need to start a game for the special solenoids. Then you can use a logic probe or a DMM and check the base leg of each special solenoid TIP transistors, they should be a low or zero volts. If you are reading voltage then the predriver is turned on or shorted and needs to be replaced. If your reading zero volts on the TIP base leg (transistor is off) then check resistance between ground and the metal tab or the corresponding pin on 1J19. There should be very high resistance if not the TIP is bad.

Rock on! Turns out the pre-driver was in fact bad. replaced that and the 102 and after doing this test everything measured the same for all the special solenoid drivers. Plugged in J119 with a very high pucker factor and nothing happened. That's a good thing for sure. Pressed the sling switch and it fired just as it should. Phew. That was getting the better of me for a while. Thanks!

Last issue is the upper left kickback switch not registering. In switch edge test it will register when touched from under the playfield, but not by rolling a ball up there. I'm going to be adjusting the gap to see if that's the ticket, but just wanted to say that the major problem is solved.

I didn't even get excited.

Glad to hear it.
Now play ball.

Okay, so I bought this flasher panel for back flashers off ebay. Put new 89 bulbs in. Flashers 4 and 6 did not work. Flasher 4 had cracked solder where bulb socket connected. I tried to add solder to stabilize. I am complete rookie at soldering. It didn't fix the problem. So, I thought, well 4 out of 6 flashers isn't so bad. I replaced all bulbs with led' s including flashers EXCEPT for back panel bulbs. I did this because heard would still work if left bulbs in back. Now, none of the bulbs in back flash even in test. Also, all but the flashers above pop bumper stay permanently on (330 ohm reistor issue, right?). Any ideas, also anyone want to take a crack at fixing the board if that is the problem?

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All flasher resistors needs to be removed when using LED if I'm not mistaken. Also make.sure to check the solder on those ceramic resistors (huge white rectangular ones). It's very common that they break off rendering flashers inert.

Do the #4 and #6 flashers on the playfield work?

Did the connector fall off the board after you installed it.

Correct, either remove the ground wire from each flasher board or remove both 330 ohm resistors from each flasher board.

Some 12 volt flasher bulbs are polarity sensitive and will not light when wired backward. So you should check to see if the center pin of the bulb socket has a positive DC voltage. If not the socket needs to be reversed on the board.

Connector was still on and tight. 4 and 6 flasher on table work fine. It was strange, 1,2,3,and five all worked. Then I swapped to LED's (leaving 89 bulbs in back panel) and now they don't light up either. Tonight I'll pull the resistors. Think that will bring the others back to life?

When pulling 330 resistors, do I pull ALL of them? That is, each one that is next to the longer (5 ohms) ones? I guess, I'm also wanting to verify how many of these resistor boards there are. Afraid of disconnecting something I need.

You need to both on every flasher board under the p/f and in the back box.

Flasher boards are only for the flashers bulbs and the standard bulbs will still work with out the warming resistors.