Quoted from GRUMPY:pop bumper coil a 00.9
I'm also gonna wait to receive the correct fuse for that specific holder, it should arrive tomorrow.
Quoted from GRUMPY:pop bumper coil a 00.9
I'm also gonna wait to receive the correct fuse for that specific holder, it should arrive tomorrow.
Quoted from raplaka75:I'm also gonna wait to receive the correct fuse for that specific holder
Before replacing the fuse disconnect 1J19 and check the ohms between ground and the metal tab of Q-69. Low ohms = a bad Q-69 transistor which will lock the coil on and burn the fuse.
Quoted from Budski:I just joined the F14 owners today.
Congrats! Lots of great information in this thread.
Cleared for take off.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Before replacing the fuse disconnect 1J19 and check the ohms between ground and the metal tab of Q-69. Low ohms = a bad Q-69 transistor which will lock the coil on and burn the fuse.
Ok I tried testing ohms with the 1J19 unplug, putting the black lead on the ground braid and the red lead on top of the Q69 and it's giving me a reading of O.L
Quoted from GRUMPY:Before replacing the fuse disconnect 1J19 and check the ohms between ground and the metal tab of Q-69. Low ohms = a bad Q-69 transistor which will lock the coil on and burn the fuse.
It seems like you have a couple of problems at the same time. Repeat this test on Q-75
Quoted from raplaka75:top of the Q69 and it's giving me a reading of O.L
This is fine.
Quoted from GRUMPY:It seems like you have a couple of problems at the same time. Repeat this test on Q-75
This is fine.
I'm getting the same exact reading on Q75 (O.L) but when I have 1J19 plugged in with the power off, I'm getting 09.8 on both Q75 &Q69
Quoted from raplaka75:I'm getting 09.8 on both Q75 &Q69
This doesn't sound correct. If you remove F-2 and F-4 from the power supply and turn on the game, what do you read for voltage on the F-2 fuse clip? Check for A/C and DC.
Quoted from GRUMPY:This doesn't sound correct. If you remove F-2 and F-4 from the power supply and turn on the game, what do you read for voltage on the F-2 fuse clip? Check for A/C and DC.
Ok I'm getting 30.2 in DC and 7.22 in AC
Quoted from raplaka75:Ok I'm getting 30.2 in DC and 7.22 in AC
This looks like you have a bad bridge rectifier. You should be getting 37 volts dc and .75 ac. I think you have a shorted diode in the bridge. There are 2 bridges mounted against the metal back plane in the lower right corner of the back box. Remove the one with 2 red wires and a black and orange wire. Once removed you can retest it to know for sure but it looks as tho you need a new one, on a brighter note you were not getting full power to the coils and when fixed you will have a lot more power.
Planning to look at a machine possibly this weekend. He tells me it needs a new power supply. And I'm guessing possibly an mpu board. Wondering how much that would set me back in Canadian dollars. If not sure I'd take the U.S. dollars amount and figure it out. Just trying to figure out what I want to spend on this thing. Thanks in advance.
Quoted from GRUMPY:This looks like you have a bad bridge rectifier. You should be getting 37 volts dc and .75 ac. I think you have a shorted diode in the bridge. There are 2 bridges mounted against the metal back plane in the lower right corner of the back box. Remove the one with 2 red wires and a black and orange wire. Once removed you can retest it to know for sure but it looks as tho you need a new one, on a brighter note you were not getting full power to the coils and when fixed you will have a lot more power.
Ok I'm trying to take the wires off but they are on there tight, after I take them off do I go back and test the fuses?
Quoted from raplaka75:Ok I'm trying to take the wires off but they are on there tight
They may have been soldered also. When you get the wires off you need to test the bridge rectifier to make sure its truly bad.
Quoted from GRUMPY:They may have been soldered also.
Yeah they not budging at all and it's not even soldered but it's a little rusty
I would just replace it as they are 4 dollars and cut off the crimp on connectors and solder wires directly to the new bridge. Clean the metal ground plane and add new heat sink compound to the bridge and remount it.
Ok looks like I will hunt for them and order em. But for the meantime I still got to cut off the wires and still test the voltages on the fuse holder correct?
Quoted from raplaka75:I still got to cut off the wires and still test the voltages on the fuse holder correct?
This bridge rectifier is the source of the power for all of the low power coils in the game. If you remove this then do NOT turn on the power until its replaced. Also I see that your game doesn't have the fuses installed for the bridge rectifiers yet. This was a error on Williams part and needs to be done as its a fire hazard.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Also I see that your game doesn't have the fuses installed for the bridge rectifiers yet. This was a error on Williams part and needs to be done as its a fire hazard.
I had no idea I had to add fuses with the rectifiers.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I would just replace it as they are 4 dollars
I also wanted to ask where can I get these bridge rectifier from?
Quoted from raplaka75:I had no idea I had to add fuses with the rectifiers.
You can get bridge rectifiers from PBL, Marcos, Bay area, Big Daddys and GPE.
I cut the red wire on the right for the top bridge and the blue wire on the right for the the bottom bridge @ 2 inches from the bridge. I then strip both ends of the wires and solder a fuse holder to the wires. Then I mount the fuse holder to the side of the back box with a screw. Then install a 8 amp SB fuse in each holder, no more fire hazard. Total cost 3.00.
Has anyone tried these ? Thoughts ?
http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/boards/boards-index.htm#bridgeboard
Anyone needing some detail on how to fuse the rectifier... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945742
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Has anyone tried these ? Thoughts ?
http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/boards/boards-index.htm#bridgeboard
I think Mark installed these into his. I may be remembering incorrectly though.
I have some bulbs burnt out in the top left of the play field where the balls get directed down the ramps. The ones that are covered by the red and blue silicone covers. Anyone know a good LED bulb to replace them with? Thanks
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Has anyone tried these ? Thoughts ?
http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/boards/boards-index.htm#bridgeboard
Those boards are great!
They solve 5 problems in one go.
Replaces both rectifiers, adds both fuses and replaces the BIG cap.
More info is on my website www.inkochnito.nl
Just click on the Bridge Boared image.
Here is an image from my proto type board in F14...
Quoted from Inkochnito:Those boards are great!
They solve 5 problems in one go.
Replaces both rectifiers, adds both fuses and replaces the BIG cap.
More info is on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Just click on the Bridge Boared image.
Here is an image from my proto type board in F14...
If I hadn't already installed the fuses for the rectifiers and spent entirely too much money already restoring F-14, I would have bought one of these. They are great!
Quoted from Inkochnito:Those boards are great!
They solve 5 problems in one go.
Replaces both rectifiers, adds both fuses and replaces the BIG cap.
More info is on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Just click on the Bridge Boared image.
Here is an image from my proto type board in F14...
Yeah, but your biased ! Im thinking of ordering one even though i fused the rectifier many moons ago .
Quoted from Samuelson3:Anyone know what are the replacement bulbs for the little red domes in the back?
just get 3 blue and 3 red frosted leds. They are 44s .
Quoted from SUPERBEE:just get 3 blue and 3 red frosted leds. They are 44s .
Thanks I just needed to know what number they were. Where did you find that info?
A metall socket with 2 watts is a 44, therfor you need no manual.
Never would I use a LED in a vintage game ... just replace the bulb, its a red or blue cap on it. remove it with some water and you can use it again .. dont forget to clean the "billy boy".
Quoted from Inkochnito:Those boards are great!
They solve 5 problems in one go.
Replaces both rectifiers, adds both fuses and replaces the BIG cap.
More info is on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Just click on the Bridge Boared image.
Here is an image from my proto type board in F14...
Just got mine yesterday and about to install it today
Quoted from GRUMPY:You can get bridge rectifiers from PBL, Marcos, Bay area, Big Daddys and GPE.
I cut the red wire on the right for the top bridge and the blue wire on the right for the the bottom bridge @ 2 inches from the bridge. I then strip both ends of the wires and solder a fuse holder to the wires. Then I mount the fuse holder to the side of the back box with a screw. Then install a 8 amp SB fuse in each holder, no more fire hazard. Total cost 3.00.
Hey Grumpy, I've now replaced the old bridge rectifier with the new rectifier board from Inkonito and that was a success. I've replaced the 2.5 fuse on the bottom for the kickers (just to test things out), but when I turn the game on the right slingshot kicker clicked and it was stuck until I've unplugged the game. Do I need to replace that whole part (coil etc)?
Quoted from GRUMPY:It seems like you have a couple of problems at the same time.
This is the other problem
Disconnect 1J-19 to avoid melting the coil. Then power on the game and check 1J-18 pin 3 with your voltmeter with the connector still in place. What do you get?
Quoted from GRUMPY:This is the other problem
Disconnect 1J-19 to avoid melting the coil. Then power on the game and check 1J-18 pin 3 with your voltmeter with the connector still in place. What do you get?
Ok I'm getting 4.88 DC
Quoted from raplaka75:Ok I'm getting 4.88 DC
That's good. Now measure voltage on U-45 pin 4 with the power on in attract mode.
Quoted from GRUMPY:That's good. Now measure voltage on U-45 pin 4 with the power on in attract mode.
It's reading 156.8 DC, if that's correct
Quoted from raplaka75:It's reading 156.8 DC, if that's correct
Could this be milivolts?
If this is 156 milivolts than it's good. Then you will need to replace Q-70 (2n4401) and Q-71 (TIP102) and the diode (1n4007) on the coil.
Quoted from raplaka75:I've now replaced the old bridge rectifier with the new rectifier board from Inkonito
Just my OCD here... check the solenoid power at the fuse for both AC and DC.
Quoted from raplaka75:Ok I'm getting 30.2 in DC and 7.22 in AC
I bet they will be a lot better ^^^^ then these numbers.
I'm looking for a scan of an f-14 playfield. I'm in the middle of a playfield restore and need to make some decals. Any help would b awesome.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Just my OCD here... check the solenoid power at the fuse for both AC and DC.
I bet they will be a lot better ^^^^ then these numbers.
Ok I will check it tomorrow, I've changed the Q-70 & the Q-71 but I didn't test it tonight because I didn't change the diode at the coil yet.
Quoted from raplaka75:I didn't change the diode at the coil yet.
When you remove the diode, check the ohms on the coil. 23-800 coils should read @ 4.2 ohms.
Quoted from GRUMPY:When you remove the diode, check the ohms on the coil. 23-800 coils should read @ 4.2 ohms.
That's with the game powered on and test it on the coils lugs correct?
Quoted from raplaka75:That's with the game powered on
Ohms=not powered, volts=powered.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Ohms=not powered, volts=powered.
Ok will check tomorrow and report back
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