(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,072 posts
  • 321 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by northvibe
  • Topic is favorited by 130 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,223 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Screen Shot 2019-11-27 at 12.20.15 PM (resized).png
0A1FAC8F-F8B7-4022-A2F9-427D30D0E3B0 (resized).jpeg
20191026_193510 (resized).jpg
20191025_220604 (resized).jpg
20191025_220544 (resized).jpg
881B8B42-A93A-4236-8EDC-44DD76BB744F (resized).jpeg
02979AB8-B113-40D4-B71A-E29C2AB9CE66 (resized).jpeg
8F68FF0E-4EC1-42C7-8750-6F3C786179CA (resized).jpeg
F66A765B-6CD5-4CEB-9C94-8321AC303173 (resized).jpeg
625D4BB7-2C1C-49E1-8FC6-856F6C0B01E9 (resized).jpeg
DC33FB5C-B7C1-4208-B6A3-6DAE1D0AFC13 (resized).jpeg
B0F64912-39F5-416C-A94D-58595E0350CB (resized).jpeg
04E3C15C-A6E5-48F6-8CCD-00EFCAA125B7 (resized).jpeg
20191012_085151 (resized).jpg
20191012_085132 (resized).jpg
CF00E10A-4C10-4798-9161-2DFFF008B890 (resized).jpeg

There are 4072 posts in this topic. You are on page 43 of 82.
#2101 2 years ago

Looking for the center plastic over the two targets. Anywhere I can find it? Preferably in europe to avoid customs.

#2102 2 years ago

Going tonight to pick up a tomcat.. any common issues on this machine I should look for ? Thank you ...

#2103 2 years ago
Quoted from Milltown:

Going tonight to pick up a tomcat.. any common issues on this machine I should look for ? Thank you ...

Early machines have a light/socket on the top targets that the target bracket gets bent over/touches and shorts out. Later machines removed the socket. Oh, you better take some speed because it is FAST.

#2104 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Early machines have a light/socket on the top targets that the target bracket gets bent over/touches and shorts out. Later machines removed the socket. Oh, you better take some speed because it is FAST.

Thank you luckily it wasn't the 1st ..

#2105 2 years ago

Pretty stoked.. scored my tomcat tonight for short money.. wouldn't start.. but very clean.. so I took it .
3 minutes after set up.. I checked the batteries then start switch.. it was stuck in the on position.. cleaned and adjusted .. time to play...

#2106 2 years ago

And its alive..

IMG_20161216_012743 (resized).jpg

#2107 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Early machines have a light/socket on the top targets that the target bracket gets bent over/touches and shorts out. Later machines removed the socket. Oh, you better take some speed because it is FAST.

Can you point this out? I think I have a later edition machine (red flashers in the back wall) though.

There is also a service bulletin about bending the plate backwards on one of the coils. But I dont remember what this prevented.

#2108 2 years ago

I think it's under the little red beacon on the top right targets. Later machines still have the hole for the socket in the playfield but no socket.

#2109 2 years ago

Well I absolutely love my f14.. 5 am tweeking and playing.. very stoked. Anyone have a used glass display.. it seems common the 3rd player is dead..

#2110 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Can you point this out? I think I have a later edition machine (red flashers in the back wall) though.
There is also a service bulletin about bending the plate backwards on one of the coils. But I dont remember what this prevented.

The red flashers on the back wall do not necessarily correlate with the playfield target/flasher issue. The appearance of a lot of the early production run items such as the clear domes on the back wall or the opaque vs. clear center beacon lens are often scattered throughout the run, and some folks even changed them later on (to produce an early run look-alike)

The service bulletin to prevent shorting is located at the link below. Often a collector wishes to reverse the mod out and simply insulate the target switch and flasher sockets, so that the light patterns are reverted back to the original design.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_41.pdf

#2111 2 years ago

So if I understand it correctly...RED1 and RED2 are completely disconnected in order to remove the high voltage coil wires from shorting the lamp matrix? And then rewire so that only BLUE and CLEAR is operational?

#2112 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

So if I understand it correctly...RED1 and RED2 are completely disconnected in order to remove the high voltage coil wires from shorting the lamp matrix? And then rewire so that only BLUE and CLEAR is operational?

In simplest terms, this is correct. The field mod was introduced when it was found that solenoid voltages were being shorted to the switch matrix by impacts to the letter targets. Why it was chosen instead of insulating targets is a bit baffling to me, I guess they figured to be the safest from liability that they would remove the sockets altogether. The mod reversal is quite common, modern heat shrink and/or insulating tape done to both the socket and target back is quite reliable and safe. there's also a reasonably good video describing the process in detail here:

#2113 2 years ago

Thank you, great information. I'll try to reverse it sometime.

#2114 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

I think it's under the little red beacon on the top right targets. Later machines still have the hole for the socket in the playfield but no socket.

Funny mine has no lights or holes.. just the dones.

#2115 2 years ago
Quoted from Milltown:

Funny mine has no lights or holes.. just the dones.

Really ? No holes in the playfield ????

#2116 2 years ago

Just take a look at page 27 to understand how to work with prototype flashers. You can see pictures also.

1 week later
#2117 2 years ago

Still looking for the complete center plastic assembly. I think it's 554-3. Anyone know where I can find one?

#2118 2 years ago

Question,

If the playfield mylar bubbles up in areas, can you just take a heat gun to it to reapply? I don't want to really undo the entire thing since it will mean new stickers etc, but in some areas, the factory mylar is bubbled up and if you push it, it just doesnt' restick itself.

#2119 2 years ago

Mine has done that too. I think part of the onset has raised on mine. I was going to hammer it down flush. Heat gun is a thought too.

#2120 2 years ago

My arrow inserts have raised the mylar too, as is common on most f14. Im going to heat them up slightly and hammer them back in with a piece of oak. Remember to apply some glue afterwards from the bottom.

#2121 2 years ago

Hello all, looking for a source for switch assemblies for the spinners at the top of the playfield. I can't seem to locate them anywhere. Part #'s SW-1A-168. Thanks for any help.

#2122 2 years ago
Quoted from drjbeyer:

Hello all, looking for a source for switch assemblies for the spinners at the top of the playfield. I can't seem to locate them anywhere. Part #'s SW-1A-168. Thanks for any help.

I believe that part is obsolete and replaced by this one which you can get anywhere: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-11664

EDIT: Noticed it was out of stock, but apparantly you can also use this one from Gottlieb as replacement. http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=B-18807

"Leaf switch assembly with bend/hook on end for use with spinner targets and roll-under wireform gates on many Gottlieb games. Can be used on other makes/models as well. Measures approx. 3-1/2 inches overall length. 2 solder lugs. "

#2123 2 years ago

Does anyone have an issue when the ball is coming down the right inlane to the flipper, and it bounces slightly as it transitions from the metal guide to the flipper?

I guessing I need a new lane guide...

#2124 2 years ago

Anyone know how many GI bulbs are used in F14?

Is there supposed to be a rubber on the post between the left inlane and rescue/out lane?

#2125 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Anyone know how many GI bulbs are used in F14?
Is there supposed to be a rubber on the post between the left inlane and rescue/out lane?

The complete Instruction Manual is available for viewing and downloading on ipdb.org
it will have the answers to both your questions.

#2126 2 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

The complete Instruction Manual is available for viewing and downloading on ipdb.org
it will have the answers to both your questions.

Thanks but it does not cover anything about GI lamps. Only PF lamps, flashers, solenoids and rubbers.

#2127 2 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Does anyone have an issue when the ball is coming down the right inlane to the flipper, and it bounces slightly as it transitions from the metal guide to the flipper?
I guessing I need a new lane guide...

New lane guide will indeed cure that. Cliffy sells enhanced lane guides that are really nice. Put a set of my F14 a little while ago.

#2128 2 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

New lane guide will indeed cure that. Cliffy sells enhanced lane guides that are really nice. Put a set of my F14 a little while ago.

Had no idea Cliffy did these. Thanks for the heads up. I shot him an email.

#2129 2 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

Cliffy sells enhanced lane guides that are really nice.

What is "enhanced" about them ? Im curious .

#2130 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

What is "enhanced" about them ? Im curious .

Nothing. Enhanced is just a fancy way of saying 'new'. I bought them as well for my F-14 and they fixed the bounce issue.

#2131 2 years ago

Anyone might know why my flashers 9 and 10 aren't working? I have a later production model without flashers 7 (the two top red domes are empty).

I have not made any modifications, and everything else in the machine works fine.

#2132 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Anyone might know why my flashers 9 and 10 aren't working?

Check the flasher board on the back side of the insert board. Also check for power at the bulb pairs, I think its a orange or red wire.

#2133 2 years ago

I visually inspected the small board under the pf near the right lock switch (white + white/black wires). It looked fine. Should I measure anything here?

"Back side of insert board", sorry...don't follow you on this one.

#2134 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

"Back side of insert board"

The board behind the translight.

#2135 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

What is "enhanced" about them ? Im curious .

Quoted from Fifty:

Nothing. Enhanced is just a fancy way of saying 'new'. I bought them as well for my F-14 and they fixed the bounce issue.

Actually they are different. Here is the page that shows the pics and explains it: http://passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

pasted_image (resized).png

#2136 2 years ago

Odd I have domes and no flashers. . But have 89 sockets on the back ?? And the old display..

#2137 2 years ago

Fellow F-14 owner, here. I'm unsure of how this happened, but the pin got set to coin mode and when I attempted to change the setting back to free play I discovered that the "set" or "enter" button on the left of this picture was no longer working. The other two switches are working fine, so I can go forward and backward through the menu, but not select or make changes. The connections appear to be tight, but there is a resistor (I think) that one of the switch wires passes through that could be bad.

(I'm a software guy - starting to learn about the electrical/electronics part of the hobby).

So, I have two questions:

- Any suggestions for troubleshooting the problem?

- If the switch is bad, any ideas for a replacement or substitute? I found the part # and searched Marco and a few other suppliers, only to find that it's out of stock. If this is the issue and anyone can suggest a substitute part that would be great.

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

5E821DC4-5972-4BC7-8E97-77E33A5AFE90 (resized).JPG

#2138 2 years ago

I would put a meter and check the switch before sourcing a new one. Could be the switch is fine but instead a broken wire or a connector not tight.

#2139 2 years ago
Quoted from Frogman:

but not select or make changes.

Use the credit switch for changes.

#2140 2 years ago
Quoted from Frogman:

button on the left of this picture was no longer working.

This is the high score reset button, press and hold for 5 seconds to reset game high scores.

#2141 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Use the credit switch for changes.

Thank you. Apparently, the only thing that's malfunctioning is my brain and not the pin. I searched Pinside, but next time I'll also read the manual.

#2142 2 years ago

Regarding to the not working service button, check the harness and connector. I've got the same problem and the reason was a bended pin in the connector of the coin door harness.

#2143 2 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Regarding to the not working service button, check the harness and connector. I've got the same problem and the reason was a bended pin in the connector of the coin door harness.

Thanks for the suggestion. Grumpy correctly identified that this wasn't a technical issue, but a user problem - I didn't realize that the credit switch acted as the select or enter button.

#2144 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check the flasher board on the back side of the insert board. Also check for power at the bulb pairs, I think its a orange or red wire.

I haven't checked with a multimeter yet since mine died recently. I went through the coil test and flasher #9 and #10 domes are not triggered on the playfield. However they are triggered in the backbox.

If I'm not mistaken, the machines that're missing the two red dome flashers (#7) have the clear and blue flasher wired to flasher #10. However, initially they were separated each to flasher #9 and #10 (synced with those in backbox)

EDIT: I'm suspecting the flasher board has a broken ceramic resistor, if the board now only controls playfield flashers. A quick look in the manuals tells me that Q14 and Q17 handles both backbox and dome flashers so it must be the board underneath since backbox works.

#2145 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

it must be the board underneath since backbox works.

There is a separate flasher board for the backbox and for the playfield. I think its next to the shooter lane and should have a Wht/Blk wire going to it. In solenoid test, repeat solenoid #10 and briefly place a jumper across the larger resistor and see it the flasher bulb works. If the bulb flashes with the jumper on the resistor then the resistor is bad. Don't leave the jumper on to long as it will burn out your bulb.

#2146 2 years ago

Grumpy rules on troubleshooting...

#2147 2 years ago

Sure enough. One of the big resistors was broken off. All of them are working though since I measured a connection through them.

And as I was standing there with the soldering iron, the power went in the neighbourhood and I let out a big WTF before realizing it wasnt my fault. lol

#2148 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

And as I was standing there with the soldering iron, the power went in the neighbourhood and I let out a big WTF

You need to get a smaller soldering iron!

#2149 2 years ago

Any ideas where to get the sticker/trim that goes around each display? Mine has 2 missing and I can't seem to find them. Thanks in advance.

#2150 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to get a smaller soldering iron!

It has the power of a small sun. At least the F14 feels like it does now. video below

https://instagram.com/p/BPD5Og0hOCh/

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 99.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Sales
$ 14.99
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 9.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 36.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
There are 4072 posts in this topic. You are on page 43 of 82.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside