Should be regular 44/47. Most people go with warm white frosted in the GI. It has the look of incandescent just a little brighter. They will spread the light better than the clears.

Do you have a logic probe?

Thank you, and thanks for the help acquiring the pinball! Gwen loves it! Though it is a bit too fast for her, lol.

I don't know, she sprinted from the kitchen pretty fast when I walked in and she wasn't dressed fancy enough for a visitor.

Trying to get the rotating lights on the back box operating. My pin was missing the motor and attaching hardware. I purchased a new motor, two pulleys, and 2 belts along with a snap bushing to go into the metal. Is there another spacer that goes between the nylon snap washer and the top pulley or anything between the two pulleys on the motor such as washers etc? Need to pick up some mounting screws for the motor as well since the motor didn't come with any. Any help will be appreciated. The former owner cut and capped the wires previously going to the motor.

Try to run the motor test in the diagnostics without any of it connected to the belts etc.. This will tell you if the motor is working. I know the belts on mine got bound up with the screws when i installed them wrong.
Joe

I haven't tested the motor yet, but since I just bought it from marco, I'd assume it is good. I need to see the stack up of the assembly since in my manual, it just lists parts, but with no picture. That's where I'm a bit confused. Just not sure if I have everything to make it work properly. I did see a pic and noticed standoffs for the motor. Didn't see them listed nor for sale per say or Marcos site for F-14 specific parts. Any help would be great. The spacer or standoff I think in the manual is P/N 02-4296-1, but it doesn't come up anywhere
Jason

Its just aluminum tubing, cut to size. At work right now but I could measure tomorrow for you.

Great, that would be very helpful. Might be able to find some scrap tubing at work or pick some up elsewhere.

They are 13/16 inch long.

thank you! I got some aluminum tubing from work so just need to cut it down now.

Question, If you want to change all of the flashers in the playfield as well as the backglass to LED flashers on F-14, is there a modification you have to do to make them work? Watching on youtube, TNT amusements said the game didn't like to use LED flashers. I removed the warming resistor to make my gorgar flasher work in the pit with LEDs. Wasn't sure if you had to do something similar with this pinball.
Plus, I just noticed last night that in the backglass area, only two of the flasher stock bulbs work, yet the wires look good as well as all 4 of the bulbs work by swapping them in different sockets. The two sockets that don't work are diagonal from each other. Would this be mainly a socket issue or a board issue? At a quick glance, the wires are all connected to each other and only two wires I think went back to a circuit board with white blocks, resistors I believe.

Again, any help would be great since I new and just learning how to maintain my games.

Jason

Possibly a socket issue on the two light board flashers Try cleaning them with a socket cleaner if you have one or just replace them and see. I would check for power on the two sockets first though. If no power then check the connections and wiring.
As far as changing over to Leds ....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-warming-resistors

Take a pic of the sockets on the insert board, so I can see the color of wires on the sockets.

.

I believe Patofnaud's post number 19 on this thread answers this question:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-warming-resistors

It will be a bit since I'm on a work road trip for two weeks.
Plus I have to figure out why the game doesn't put any balls in play once they go up the ramp. For some reason the game isn't kicking the balls into play at either center L/H R/H or R/H side. oddly enough, when you put a ball in play, it goes down the shoot and waits. The game then kicks out another ball at the pull plunger, like the ball was locked for multi ball. Odd since the game was working just fine the previous day. Not sure if my wife's daughter did anything when I had the play field glass off besides unplug the game while it was on from the power strip. She wasn't sure if the game could be on while the glass was off so instead of turning it off, she unplugged it from the powerstrip on as she placed Gorgar. I checked fuses, etc. everything seems fine, but the game just won't kick a ball into play once it drops down from the shoot.

See some of the later entries in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-flashers-not-working
I also cover how I did it in the following video, and the beacon lights, and I also added under cabinet LED flashers in the video.

Have fun!

I would check and clean the switches. Sounds like it doesn't know where the balls are.

When I get back from Kansas I'll check some more. If I can't find anything, hopefully you'll be able to come over and check. Just seems so odd that is just happened overnight. At least I learned one thing and that is if you don't have all 4 balls in the game, it won't start a game. Handy to know.

I should finally get back from my road trip today and start trouble shooting my pinball. One question I have is the game, on start up, would sound a knocker at times and say adjust switch 12 if I remember correctly. It has done this about 3 times or so of owning the game since I picked it up recently. Could this have something to do with the balls not being kicked out into play once you launch them with the plunger? Plus, what and where is switch 12?

Switch 12 is the right center trough switch. The adjust message is telling you the switch has not been tripped in the past 30 games. Use the switch edge test and use a ball to test the switch, not your finger. Possible causes of failure could be a broken wire or bent switch activation arm. This info is in the manual, which you can obtain a digital copy from IPDB.com

The right ball trough is the right center area that the ball can drop down on during initial game play from the wire ramps near the top flippers correct? If this somehow got stuck, would this cause the L/H center and the far right area where the wire ramps drop the ball at to fail and not kick the ball out into play?? Since this is my problem all of a sudden. Balls get sent down the wire ramps and don't get kicked into play. I launch one ball and then the machine kicks another out at the plunger like the balls are getting locked for multi ball. Hate sitting at airports but at least I can get all of your great info to trouble shoot when I get home tonight!

If the switches were bad the ball would sit there for 10 seconds then the ball search would kick the ball out. Since that doesn't happen the coil can't fire because there is no power or a board issue.

OK after trying various scenarios, this is what I've got:
Nothing appears to be out of place, no fuses seem blown, not sure how to test a slow fuse if that is it though since removed from pinball, the fuses test fine that are under the play field.
After each ball launch it goes down the wire ramp and once it drops to the bottom to be kicked out, the game sees it as out of play and calls for ball two, then ball three, etc. If I take a ball and try to just hit it around, the scoring works etc, but the L/H bottom side kickback is inop. The only kickbacks that do work are the two upper L/H and R/H kickbacks. Doing the solenoid tests per the manual results in only the relays clicking and not the solenoids/plungers firing in faulted areas. No code is given for any switches out of place during the switch test.

I'm stumped. Rest of the game works great, demo mode, game play besides the kickback, etc. There has to be something linking these 4 problem areas that just seemed to fault over night.

Did you check F-4 fuse on the power supply?

Which one is that? Is that located in the backbox or under the playfield?

OK I found it in the manual. And yes, it ohms out fine.

Look at page 28 in the manual. The solenoid 03a ball popper is controlled by the AC relay and transistor Q32. The relay powers the solenoid and the transistor gives it a ground. Page 28 shows the AC relay on the right side. Power goes thru the relay from Sol B+ to NC terminal any time the power is on. Then power goes thru the fuse which is under the playfield and then to the solenoid. So with the game powered on, remove the balls and lift the p/f. Check for DC power (@ 74 volts DC) at both sides of the fuse under the p/f, if its good then check for power on both sides of the coil. If this is good then page 28 shows that there is a diode board (# 11234) inline between the coil and the transistor. Since your troubleshooting solenoid 03a you would check for power on both sides of diode A3 on the diode board which in located in the bottom of the cabinet. If this is good then check for power at the metal tab of Q32 on the CPU board in the back box. If you have power on the transistor then you have a board problem.

Is it just the ball popper 03A I need to look at? I'm not real familiar with the lingo for these items. But I figured this was the solenoid that ejects the ball to the plunger on the bottom R/H of the playfield, and that works fine. I thought I was looking into 05A, 07A, 10, and possibly 13 solenoid since they are inop right now, just the yellow box relay located at each coil clicks when in test mode. It calls out for in note 4 on the solenoid table about a relay snubber board where the relay is mounted. Is this located somewhere else or is it in fact the yellow box relay next to each coil? After I get off work today I'll start checking wires again. Thanks again for the constant troubleshooting ideas. Hopefully I'll find something. I figured It has to be something that connects all of these items since they all went inop overnight. If I need to order a new board, would it be the main large one in the back with all of the chipsets in it? Any ideas on where to look into purchasing one? Hopefully it won't come to that. I hope.

My website (http://www.inkochnito.nl) also has a nice Tech Chart for F-14 Tomcat.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_F-14_Tomcat_Tech_Chart.pdf
Might come in handy.

I'm 99% sure this isn't needed. If you fix solenoid 03a, then the rest will most likely be fixed at the same time. Your problem looks like a broken power wire. To bad you had to work on Sunday.

Unfortunately my normal work schedule here is Thursday thru Sunday. But that gives me 3 days of trouble shooting! Hope to find a simple problem like a busted wire. Is 03a the ball kickout solenoid next to the plunger at the bottom of the playfield? A possible broken wire there?.

Page 46 of the manual shows all of the solenoids and flashers and there placement and correct numbers.

Look at the 2.5 slow blow fuse in the backbox just above the flipper power supply. It has purple/yellow wires on it.

YAY, THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU GRUMPY!!!!! There was a broken wire at the 03a solenoid!!!! When you said to trouble shoot there, I thought that was the solenoid near the plunger was but realized with the manual it was the upper right popper! Soldered it back to the solenoid and now all is well!!! I never saw how they were all linked to this solenoid in the wire diagram but so it is!!! Now my game works as advertised!!!!! Again, thank you for all of you help! I''ll have to at least buy you a drink or dinner if you come to NC near me!

Ive said this before.. (check out my pinside angels thread)GRUMPY is the man !!

Glad to help, now post the pic of those flasher sockets that are giving trouble to get this game 100%.

Awesome. That's what makes his place GREAT.

F the drama!!

Here is the pic of the back board. As you look at it, the upper right and bottom left flashed, not the other two with the standard flash bulb. I just plugged in LED flashers and now the upper left and lower right are steady on and the upper right and bottom left flash. Since I want this to use the LEDs, should I just cut out the two small resistors on either end of the circuit board, and so on throughout the machine? I'm guessing one of the warming resistors is inop since it didn't make the 2 standard bulbs flash.

IMG_1214 (resized).jpg

If you are going to run LEDs in the flashers then remove the two smaller resistors on that flash lamp board. Since the brown/black flash circuit isn't working with standard #89 bulbs, then with the power off ohm the big resistor on the left. It should be 5 ohms. Also check for cracked solder joints on the board for the resistor. If this all checks out OK then turn on the game and go into solenoid test #9 and lock the advance button down so it stays on #9 test. Then use a jumper wire across the big resistor on the left, don't do too long as it will burn out the bulbs. Does it light with the jumper? If it lights with a jumper then the resistor needs to be replaced. Now onto your other problem, most LEDs bulbs are polarity sensitive and I needed the pic to see which wires are in the wrong place. Your bad luck is every wire is wrong on all four sockets. This will all need to be changed to get the LEDs to light. On the bright side, its good soldering practice.

Just joined today. Cl score for me. She needs love but that's alright

IMG_0924 (resized).JPG

Welcome to the club !!

Yay, my luck! I guess I'll have to check to see if the wire diagram shows me the correct connection for these bulbs.

OK, Grumpy, not seeing the wiring for those flashers in the manual, any hint on the correct soldering would be appreciated. It looks OK to me, but you are the expert.

Welcome! this has been a great source of info for me so I'm sure any help you'll need, you'll find it here!

GRUMPY is the master of F14 trouble-shooting. He's helped me before.

You wont find much in the manual on the flasher wiring. In the pic you posted the red wire is the positive voltage. The positive voltage is then daisy chained to all four bulbs. The problem is that the positive voltage needs to go to the center pin of the bulb socket, but yours is going to the side terminal of each socket. So for example the upper left bulb socket, remove the single wire from the center pin and put aside then remove the two wires from the side terminal and install them onto the center pin terminal then install the single wire you first removed to the side terminal. Then repeat the reversing of the wires for each socket. How did the resistor test go?

Once I get back from work today, I'll try to get to desoldering the wires. Both of the large resistors ohmed out at 5 ohms a piece. The smaller ones, the ones Ill be cutting off, ohmed out at 160 ohms a piece.

Click on the link to this post to see how it should be wired to make the LED flashers work correctly in the backbox ... in case this helps.

Note that further in the thread I had discovered that I had to remove warming resistors from boards under the playfield on the same circuit as well in order for them to work. Check those too. (This was under GRUMPY direction too.)