(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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There are 4101 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 83.
#1951 3 years ago

When I had the same problem with my Tomcat, it turned out to be a shorted cap in the MPU sound mixer section. Voice cues from PIA U9 are sent to the CVSD chip U3, which runs then through the sound mixer. It is not a problem with your sound board(s)

#1952 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

When I had the same problem with my Tomcat, it turned out to be a shorted cap in the MPU sound mixer section. Voice cues from PIA U9 are sent to the CVSD chip U3, which runs then through the sound mixer. It is not a problem with your sound board(s)

Thanks SUPERBEE and wayout440 for the replies. A shorted cap would make sense, and this gives me something to go on--I really appreciate it. I think I'll have to get tech help for board soldering and schematics reading on this one, in that it's likely well beyond my skills. I'll let you know if I solve it with the help of a tech.

#1953 3 years ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Tech help needed. I disassembled my project F-14 and did a bunch of fixes. Before disassembly the sound was working fine, but since reassembly half the sounds are gone (the group 00-07 in the sound test, which represents the voice callouts) but the rest of the sounds (the music) all work. I believe that all connectors are correctly placed, including the ribbon connector.
I actually have two sound boards, both with these chips: U-19 1-1 and U-4 1-1. In one of those boards I put in new chips, and in the other board I left the chips alone. I've swapped both sound boards in, but with no change in sound behavior. Therefore, I think I can eliminate the sound board as the culprit. Yes?
In the CPU, I've already tried replacing chips U21 1-1 and U22 1-1, with no change.
My other marked chips on the CPU are U26 Rev 1 and U27 Rev 1. I have not touched those.
Should I replace U26 and U27? If so, where do I find those? Any other ideas?
Please help! I miss hearing "You D-D-D-Die!"

You can try replacing the ribbon cables.

#1954 3 years ago
Quoted from Tim_may:

You can try replacing the ribbon cables.

Thanks, I've got some spares, so I'll try swapping one in just in case.

#1955 3 years ago

Interesting--following up on the sound problem described above, I also just got a "U10 PIA Failure" message upon booting. The message went away and the game plays, but perhaps that error is related as well. It doesn't happen every time I boot, but it did at least once. Looks like I have some work to do. Again, any advice appreciated. I've never done CPU board work.

#1956 3 years ago

I've had the U10 PIA error once, after turning the machine off and on again very fast, by accident. Maybe its a power supply issue?

#1957 3 years ago
Quoted from Tim_may:

You can try replacing the ribbon cables.

Tried swapping in the ribbon from another machine connecting the CPU to the sound board, with no change. Thanks for the idea though.

#1958 3 years ago
Quoted from koen12344:

I've had the U10 PIA error once, after turning the machine off and on again very fast, by accident. Maybe its a power supply issue?

Appreciate the advice and confirmation. I don't suspect the power supply given the other game behaviors, and indeed I had turned the machine off and on quickly. I'll stop doing that!

#1959 3 years ago

Tech help please.... Lower right flipper coil heating up super fast. Have flipper assembly coming to replace, but concerned on how it is wired. If someone can post pic of theirs it would be great for comparing. Also, any other things I should rule out? I'm thinking EOS issue.

#1960 3 years ago

Here's the lower right flipper pic. I just replaced the coil and rebuilt it. If it is heating up, check to make sure you EOS (end of stroke) switches look good. The one closest the coil should be closed in resting position. That feeds current to the high power portion of your coil. Then when the coil activates, it only needs the low power portion of the coil. That switch then opens and the switch away from the coil closes (makes contact). If the high power portion stays on, it'll certainly heat up. Coils don't go bad often. On mine the low power portion stopped working altogether.

image (resized).jpg

#1961 3 years ago

Thanks, like I said I have new assembly coming, just want to verify for install. It's a fun game and stinks when you can play only 2 games and have to shut it down. I'll compare my wiring to yours when replacing. Thanks again for quick reply post.

#1962 3 years ago

I got one a couple weeks ago. Everything is in great shape but it needs to be shopped out. The biggest issue is many many raised inserts. I plan on pulling the mylar so the inserts can be removed and reinstalled level. Other than that is just needs a good shop out to get it back up to snuff.

#1963 3 years ago

If you want in on the new Pf, I think yesterday was cut off. But with the weekend, if you contact Peter he might add you.

#1964 3 years ago
Quoted from Riptor:

I plan on pulling the mylar so the inserts can be removed and reinstalled level.

I wouldnt pull the inserts. Your running a big risk of them breaking. I would just heat the underside of the insert, level, then put some glue underneath to help prevent them from lifting again.

#1965 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I wouldnt pull the inserts. Your running a big risk of them breaking. I would just heat the underside of the insert, level, then put some glue underneath to help prevent them from lifting again.

actually better choice would be to replace them entirely. They are likely faded and old/shitty. If you are going to take them out, its easy to get new ones.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-F14-INSERTSET

Boom, $30. Easy cheesy.

#1966 3 years ago
Quoted from koen12344:

I've had the U10 PIA error once, after turning the machine off and on again very fast, by accident. Maybe its a power supply issue?

Quoted from wayout440:

When I had the same problem with my Tomcat, it turned out to be a shorted cap in the MPU sound mixer section. Voice cues from PIA U9 are sent to the CVSD chip U3, which runs then through the sound mixer. It is not a problem with your sound board(s)

Following up on the above discussion and advice--thanks very much to koen12344 and wayout 440--I discussed the issues I'm having with my F-14 with a few techs and decided to send the CPU and power supply both out for repair and upgrades. Decided it was worth it to me since I'll be routing the machine. After that board work, I expect the machine will be 100% in a few weeks. Thanks again to all those who replied.

#1967 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I wouldnt pull the inserts. Your running a big risk of them breaking. I would just heat the underside of the insert, level, then put some glue underneath to help prevent them from lifting again.

Thanks for the tip. I will make a game plan once I get into it and see what im working with. I need to pull the mylar and replace it.
I dont believe the inserts are faded but its good to know they are available in a set like that.

1 week later
#1968 3 years ago

I am having issue with lower right coil heating up fast during active game. Looking at wiring compared to lower left it appears to be wired incorrect. Is someone willing to provide some up close pics and list of where each wire is going from coil? At first I thought EOS was bad, but now thinking wiring error. I have attached how mine is wired since I bought it.

image (resized).jpeg

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#1969 3 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

Is someone willing to provide some up close pics

Look at the photo in post 1960 a few above yours. Looks a little different.

#1970 3 years ago

Yes, blue violet and one blue are swapped, that would account for the heat up.....some connection swapping coming up. Thought EOS at first but it registered in test mode. Will do some wire tracing, then re solder connections

#1971 3 years ago

Blue/purple to right in photo
Blue/yellow to left
Middle and left to EOS tabs

Did this last night.

However, I originally soldered the capacitor to the lane change switch like a moron and then realized when knocker went off at start-up.

It's good I soldered both ends to the lane change switch or I probably would have fried something. Shouldn't work on these when I'm tired.

#1972 3 years ago

Confirm that the diodes white bands are also orientated correctly, in regard to the wiring.

#1973 3 years ago

Diodes are good, checked that first. Definitely wiring mixed up, will fix this afternoon.
Thanks to everyone who provided info!

#1974 3 years ago

Hi All,

When the third ball is locked, the top lights on my machine come on, but the spinners only work intermittently. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions of what the cause might be?

Thanks in advance!

#1975 3 years ago
Quoted from HughesDForce:

Any suggestions of what the cause might be?
Thanks in advance!

Likely mechanical, and not electrical in my experience. The belts and pullys need to be able to be rotated very easily. If there is a friction point, the beacons will not rotate. I would double check them by hand and see if they're biding up somehow. Also, start the mode, and then help them with a little turn manually by hand. If they fire up, you know that there needs to be adjustments somewhere.

#1976 3 years ago

All good, plays perfect, and no coil heat up. Nice to play more than 2 games before having to shut it down....now just waiting for the new pf to ship......F14 one of the best tables out there. First and favorite!

#1977 3 years ago
Quoted from HughesDForce:

Hi All,
When the third ball is locked, the top lights on my machine come on, but the spinners only work intermittently. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions of what the cause might be?
Thanks in advance!

On mine the gear on the drive shaft was worn (or the gear was slipping on the shaft, I don't remember). I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I believe I fixed it by taking the gear of the shaft with a small socket and a hammer, and putting it on the shaft upside down.

You'll see what i mean if you open up the gearbox on the motor

#1978 3 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Likely mechanical, and not electrical in my experience. The belts and pullys need to be able to be rotated very easily. If there is a friction point, the beacons will not rotate. I would double check them by hand and see if they're biding up somehow. Also, start the mode, and then help them with a little turn manually by hand. If they fire up, you know that there needs to be adjustments somewhere.

Quoted from koen12344:

On mine the gear on the drive shaft was worn (or the gear was slipping on the shaft, I don't remember). I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I believe I fixed it by taking the gear of the shaft with a small socket and a hammer, and putting it on the shaft upside down.
You'll see what i mean if you open up the gearbox on the motor

Thank you both!

#1979 3 years ago

My issue (beacons only rotating intermittently) turned out to be a loose connection to the motor.

The beacons rotated all the time with the backglass open, and then stopped when I closed it up again. That struck me as odd until I noticed the motor power leads sticking out past where the backglass would normally sit. Jiggling the wires confirmed the cause, and now my beacons rotate consistently.

Thanks again for the advice!

#1980 3 years ago

Anyone interested in my reserved spot for a reproduction playfield? Cost is 745€, or about $833 shipped to the US.
I have a 100€ deposit down. See this thread for more info. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demand-check-f14-tom-cat
1e2a3bd1ec0cddf18a4d2ae8a938bb2281b37e88 (resized).jpg

Added over 3 years ago: Edit: Nevermind. All is good in the neighborhood.

2 weeks later
#1981 3 years ago

Any one have a topper for sale? I am think of picking one up for $ 1,500, playfield good, but since repo pf is on its way not to worried, he has the lenses but no guts for the topper, is $ 1,500 to much?

Ed

#1982 3 years ago
Quoted from T2play:

Any one have a topper for sale? I am think of picking one up for $ 1,500, playfield good, but since repo pf is on its way not to worried, he has the lenses but no guts for the topper, is $ 1,500 to much?
Ed

$1500 is a bit much. There are lots of f14's out there. For $1500 you should get a complete machine, working and in decent condition.

#1983 3 years ago

Anyone have a decent one for sale?

#1984 3 years ago
Quoted from T2play:

Anyone have a decent one for sale?

I sold a very decent early production one at expo for 1800 (for price reference).

To anyone in the thread needing a plastic play filed overlay protector, I have one that's never been installed for $100, if anyone needs one. Originally bought on eBay from: www_sspruch_de ...

#1985 3 years ago

I'll probably be selling mine in the near future. After buying another machine this weekend I'm at full capacity. Once again something is going to need to go. That's likely going to be F14.

#1986 3 years ago

The last 2 beacon parts I saw were on eBay and were approx $180 each but none there now. There are only the reflectors here at Pinside. At a minimum, $300 should be knocked off if topper missing.

#1987 3 years ago
Quoted from T2play:

Anyone have a decent one for sale?

I might be willing to part with mine for the right price. I would consider it in very good condition. (LED's - CPR plastics - clear coated PF - completely rebuilt - 100%)

IMG_3049 (resized).JPG

IMG_3408 (resized).JPG

#1988 3 years ago
Quoted from T2play:

Any one have a topper for sale?
Ed

I could make you one, built one for my F-14 and have most of the parts ready to assemble a couple more new ones. Here is the topic showing my first one: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-beacon-reproduction. I would need to crunch some numbers see what it's cost me in parts.

Shoot me a PM

#1989 3 years ago

The bottom two displays on my F14 have stopped working (player 3 and player 4). Any ideas of what to check?

#1990 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

The bottom two displays on my F14 have stopped working (player 3 and player 4). Any ideas of what to check

I would start with checking and reseating all cables and connections and see if that works. Report back.

#1991 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I would start with checking and reseating all cables and connections and see if that works. Report back.

Thank you for your willingness to help. I reset all of the cables and also switched out the ribbon cable with a known good cable to eliminate that as a possibility. No change. The back of the board show black magic marker circles around the pins to the displays for player 1, player 3, and player 4. Possible issue in the past? I do know the ribbon cable is not attached in the picture of the back of the board.

IMG_1977[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_1976[1] (resized).JPG

#1992 3 years ago

Might as well also share some pictures of the decal mods.

IMG_1973[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_1972[1] (resized).JPG

#1993 3 years ago

Where did you find those decals? I can't seem to find them anywhere.

#1995 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Thank you for your willingness to help. I reset all of the cables and also switched out the ribbon cable with a known good cable to eliminate that as a possibility. No change. The back of the board show black magic marker circles around the pins to the displays for player 1, player 3, and player 4. Possible issue in the past? I do know the ribbon cable is not attached in the picture of the back of the board.

Photos are kind of blurry. Were they working and then just went out ? Is anything else affected ? A little history might help someone here help you figure it out.

#1996 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

ebay.com link » F 14 Tomcat Williams Pinball Machine Yagov Sticker Decal Mod

The seller also sells a set for the other side. I bought both. I really think they helps to tell the story of F-14. If you are interested you can also reach out to him on Pinside, username Dreg604. The pop bumper decal is from http://www.metal-mods.com/.

#1997 3 years ago

Added a few toys to my F-14.

IMG_1980[1] (resized).JPG

#1998 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Added a few toys to my F-14.

Very nice !!!

#1999 3 years ago

Are the GI bulbs in the playfield 44 bulbs or 555? I haven't had the time to check since I bought the game Thursday and have been working ever since. The original owner put LEDs in all of the playfield areas except the GI lights. Was planning on putting LEDs in there to brighten up the art work a bit since the standard bulbs really pale next to the now bright arrows etc. Any recommendations on having the LEDs being frosted domed, open, or clear cylinder as listed on cointaker in their premium section? I bought their "kit" for my gorgar and loved the way it turned out. Since this pinball is mostly converted, I just need to add a few here and there.

Thank you for the assistance!
Jason

#2000 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

The seller also sells a set for the other side. I bought both. I really think they helps to tell the story of F-14. If you are interested you can also reach out to him on Pinside, username Dreg604. The pop bumper decal is from http://www.metal-mods.com/.

Thanks for the heads up! Just took ownership of this game, and it seems nearly perfect for being almost 30 years old. Mainly since it sat in storage for 26 years! So much faster than my gorgar, but I love them both!

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