Sorry, been away.
A bit confused with the messages. So just to start (game on and in stand by (attract mode)):
Is the coil still locked on? Yes - power off disconnect the coil from the board (remove the pin from the connector 1J11-1 if we are on the same page and talking about the correct coil - the coil that kick the ball over after draining). Tape up end so you don't short it to ground. Power on, coil still locked? Yes problem not on the board you have a short someplace in the harness/playfield.
If no - voltage at base of Q33? High, check voltage at base of Q29?
Q29 base low skip to next paragraph, base of Q33 is shorted to power. Now that could mean Q29 collector to emitter short or something else. Best if you can now bench test it for the following (saves taking in it and out of the game) - no big deal if not, just more time consuming. Power off, cut the trace near the pad of the emitter of Q29 (make sure it is open - use a sharp knife and cut through the trace, make 2 passes the second just beside the first not too wide - just wide enough to break the circuit but narrow enough that it is easy to bridge with solder to repair afterwards). Power on, voltage at base of Q33? If high you will have to trace through the connection between the cut and the base to find where it is getting power. If low measure the emitter of Q29. If high bad Q29
Q29 base high, Check U20 pins 1 and 2. Both pins 1 & 2 have to be high for pin 3 to be high, if either pin 1 or 2 are low and pin 3 is high then power off. Cut the trace that connects pin 3 to the rest of the board (make sure it is open - use a sharp knife and cut through the trace, make 2 passes the second just beside the first not too wide - just wide enough to break the circuit but narrow enough that it is easy to bridge with solder to repair afterwards). Power on check pin 3 of U20 again, if high bad U20 otherwise a bad SR6.
If U20 pins 1 & 2 are high, I will continue. But at this point I suspect a bad PIA