(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

5 years ago



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There are 3951 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 80.
#1551 3 years ago

It's possible that the loose pad was touching an adjacent pad on top of the board. The top side is not used - no trace goes to it, so it doesn't matter that it is gone. Make certain there is no solder splashes or conductive material between any of the pads by gently running an x-acto knife between them. Slightly enlarge the hole with the tip of the x-acto knife so it is clean. When you reinstall the transistor, carefully fold the middle lead down onto the pad before soldering. Trim all the leads properly before soldering. The middle lead should look similar to the photo below. Double check your work with the meter when completed.

tools_Lifted_Pad_Repair.jpg

#1552 3 years ago

The bottom of the solder pad is still present and the trace from it to J11-1 is intact. Also, the ring of the eyelet still in the through hole. I checked for continuity between the solder pads on the top of the CPU and there was none. Did the same for the bottom. I will re-insert the transistor as you have described.

I am not a praying man and I don't ask people to pray often, but if owners of F-14 could say a little something to the man upstairs for me I would appreciate it.

[EDIT] Family pictures this evening. Didn't get a chance to work on this. Tomorrow it is!

#1553 3 years ago

Sorry, been away.

A bit confused with the messages. So just to start (game on and in stand by (attract mode)):

Is the coil still locked on? Yes - power off disconnect the coil from the board (remove the pin from the connector 1J11-1 if we are on the same page and talking about the correct coil - the coil that kick the ball over after draining). Tape up end so you don't short it to ground. Power on, coil still locked? Yes problem not on the board you have a short someplace in the harness/playfield.

If no - voltage at base of Q33? High, check voltage at base of Q29?

Q29 base low skip to next paragraph, base of Q33 is shorted to power. Now that could mean Q29 collector to emitter short or something else. Best if you can now bench test it for the following (saves taking in it and out of the game) - no big deal if not, just more time consuming. Power off, cut the trace near the pad of the emitter of Q29 (make sure it is open - use a sharp knife and cut through the trace, make 2 passes the second just beside the first not too wide - just wide enough to break the circuit but narrow enough that it is easy to bridge with solder to repair afterwards). Power on, voltage at base of Q33? If high you will have to trace through the connection between the cut and the base to find where it is getting power. If low measure the emitter of Q29. If high bad Q29

Q29 base high, Check U20 pins 1 and 2. Both pins 1 & 2 have to be high for pin 3 to be high, if either pin 1 or 2 are low and pin 3 is high then power off. Cut the trace that connects pin 3 to the rest of the board (make sure it is open - use a sharp knife and cut through the trace, make 2 passes the second just beside the first not too wide - just wide enough to break the circuit but narrow enough that it is easy to bridge with solder to repair afterwards). Power on check pin 3 of U20 again, if high bad U20 otherwise a bad SR6.

If U20 pins 1 & 2 are high, I will continue. But at this point I suspect a bad PIA

#1554 3 years ago

Sorry for the delay on this one guys. It was Thanksgiving up here in Canada and we had a long weekend. Then swim lessons on Tuesday and family portraits on Wednesday. I am only getting back to this now, but I have seemingly good news...

... the coil is no longer locked on!!! I replaced Q33 again, and this time folded the middle lead onto the solder trace under the CPU. I still had to cut it, but I left much more leg on it than in my original replacements. I installed the CPU into the backbox for the umpteenth time and left J11 off. I powered on the game and checked the resistant on pin 1. 25M ohms. I was a bit disheartened as I was expecting infinite, but I plugged J11 in and voila! The coil didn't energize. It sat there like a beautiful lump. I rolled a ball down to it and it kicked it over! I nearly ran around the house with glee!

Unfortunately I didn't get to play test it. Remember my machine gunning pop bumper? Well as soon as I hit START the pop bumper started popping. I had to shut things down again. So I'm on to troubleshooting something new now. I'll check the switch stack and then dive deeper.

Thank you very much to everyone that has helped me to this point! wayout you have be extremely patient with me and been an exceptional teacher as I fought my way through this!

On to the pop bumper! After my last issue I doubt this one could be any worse (fingers-crossed).

#1555 3 years ago

Just taking my games out of storage and setting up my new game room. Somehow in storage or transport my F-14 lost a spinner. Anyone have a spare? Decals are available but spinners are out of stock.
Any help?

#1556 3 years ago

@zippydapinhead

If you send me an email (sethbrundle@nexgo.de), I can send you a new artwork (Corel) for the spinner-decal.
On this decals you will see the entire MIG and a better explosion in higher Resolution.
I remember, that all decals in stock are done unkind - they look terrible.

Kind regards
Averell

#1557 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Sorry for the delay on this one guys. It was Thanksgiving up here in Canada and we had a long weekend. Then swim lessons on Tuesday and family portraits on Wednesday. I am only getting back to this now, but I have seemingly good news...
... the coil is no longer locked on!!! I replaced Q33 again, and this time folded the middle lead onto the solder trace under the CPU. I still had to cut it, but I left much more leg on it than in my original replacements. I installed the CPU into the backbox for the umpteenth time and left J11 off. I powered on the game and checked the resistant on pin 1. 25M ohms. I was a bit disheartened as I was expecting infinite, but I plugged J11 in and voila! The coil didn't energize. It sat there like a beautiful lump. I rolled a ball down to it and it kicked it over! I nearly ran around the house with glee!
Unfortunately I didn't get to play test it. Remember my machine gunning pop bumper? Well as soon as I hit START the pop bumper started popping. I had to shut things down again. So I'm on to troubleshooting something new now. I'll check the switch stack and then dive deeper.
Thank you very much to everyone that has helped me to this point! wayout you have be extremely patient with me and been an exceptional teacher as I fought my way through this!
On to the pop bumper! After my last issue I doubt this one could be any worse (fingers-crossed).

First you learn to swim....than you solve a pinball bug!! Life is good

#1558 3 years ago

Looking at a nice F-14 though it does not have the dome lights on top. Are those ready available and easy to add?

Thanks

#1559 3 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

Looking at a nice F-14 though it does not have the dome lights on top. Are those ready available and easy to add?
Thanks

They are not impossible to find, but they are borderline rare. If you are missing the entire metal beacon assembly then be prepared to begin a long search.

#1560 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I am only getting back to this now, but I have seemingly good news...

Well done getting this fixed up, I suspect the pop bumper will be a simpler fix

#1561 3 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Well done getting this fixed up, I suspect the pop bumper will be a simpler fix

Maybe simpler to troubleshoot since I just went through a bit of hell. Here we go again...

Problem: The pop bumper begins to machine gun as soon as you hit start or go into test mode.

Troubleshooting: I checked the switch stack and adjusted the gap. No change. Grounded Q69 and the Pop Bumper fires. Issue is on the CPU which makes sense because I have had it in and out of the machine countless times. Took out the logic probe (what a handy tool). U45 pin 8, 9 are the inputs and 10 is the output. 9 is pulsing non-stop high. Not good. U45 pin 9 is fed from U44 pin 20. Pin 20 is pulsing non-stop high/low. U45 pin 20 is fed off U51 pin 5. Pin 5 is pulsing non-stop high/low. When I was troubleshooting an earlier issue I saw "U51 Failure" on the display. I haven't seen that message since, but U51 is definitely not supposed to be rapidly pulsing like this.

Does my troubleshooting make sense? I could use a second opinion.

#1562 3 years ago

If you saw U51 failure and you also have pulsing when you shouldn't, I would agree with the likelyhood that U51 is flaky.

#1563 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

If you saw U51 failure and you also have pulsing when you shouldn't, I would agree with the likelyhood that U51 is flaky.

Well, I'm going off an assumption that it shouldn't be pulsing like that. It's a rapid pulse and none of the other pins on U45 are behaving in this manner.

#1564 3 years ago

When I got my F14 I was getting intermittent PIA error like you had - most of the time it would boot fine (sorry don't remember the actual problem, but different PIA also). Once I replaced the PIA, the problem went away and never had it pop up as an error again.

#1565 3 years ago

Well the first version of the custom shooter rod (see above post) didn't work out so well for practical reasons. I liked how it looked, but it was indeed cumbersome and annoying to use.

So, for version 2, just went with the flight helmet. This is working out much better and still looks pretty sweet, imo.

Flight Helmet Shooter Rod. version 2

Flight Helmet Shooter Rod v2 installed

Maverick Flight Helmet Shooter Rod

#1566 3 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

When I got my F14 I was getting intermittent PIA error like you had - most of the time it would boot fine (sorry don't remember the actual problem, but different PIA also). Once I replaced the PIA, the problem went away and never had it pop up as an error again.

If I disconnect 1J19 the machine gunning stops. I'm going to look closer at the spoon switch.

#1567 3 years ago

Im in! Got me a F-14. Be starting on it this winter. After i finish my Tron cocktail. Woman says i can only have one project at a time lol.

#1568 3 years ago

Here is my F-14! Such a fun pin!

DSC_4039.jpg

#1569 3 years ago

Looks not so bad.

#1570 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

If I disconnect 1J19 the machine gunning stops. I'm going to look closer at the spoon switch.

I'm finally getting back to troubleshooting this. Election on Monday, swim lessons for kids on Tuesday... Wednesday begins a new week of troubleshooting.

I checked the resistor on the pop bumper. 100 ohms.
I checked the diode and it came in at 5.6 and OL as it should.

I disconnected the orange-yellow wire off the spoon switch. I thought I would start here because when I was fixing my outhole issue the pop bumper would start machine gunning and I would disconnect 1J19 to get it to stop. So off comes the orange-yellow and I start up a game. Everything is playing fine and the pop bumper starts machine gunning. I turned off the machine. Okay... Seems like It's not the orange-yellow wire.

I unscrewed the entire switch stack from under the PF. Instead of disconnecting the green-yellow wires next I just wrapped electrical tape around the switch contacts. I started playing a game and managed to get multiball started before the pop bumper starts machine gunning again. Since I was in multiball mode I just ignored it and let it continue machine gunning. The game comes first right? So I'm playing multiball and all of a sudden the pop bumper stops. 30 seconds later it pops 5 or 6 times and then stops again. Then it machine guns for a bit and stops. It continues this random pattern even after multiball has ended and a new ball is sitting in the trough.

Well shit...

So my plan now is to connect the orange-yellow back up and see if I can get the machine gunning to happen. Maybe when I was disconnecting in during my outhole troubleshooting I just never had it disconnected long enough or just never had the machine on long enough. I need to narrow down the problem.

Thoughts anyone?

#1571 3 years ago

There are two switches for the pop bumpers. One that activates it and one for scoring, etc.

I was having a similar problem with my Rollergames. One of my six "special solenoids" was activated-I would disconnect one at a time until the problem stops. Also you can burn your coil out allowing it to fire like that.

There is a good description and explanation here: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html

Just do a control 4 search for "machine gun"

#1572 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

There are two switches for the pop bumpers. One that activates it and one for scoring, etc.
I was having a similar problem with my Rollergames. One of my six "special solenoids" was activated-I would disconnect one at a time until the problem stops. Also you can burn your coil out allowing it to fire like that.
There is a good description and explanation here: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html
Just do a control 4 search for "machine gun"

Thanks for this. Great info. I'll start by disconnecting the pop bumper.

#1573 3 years ago

Something as simple as your sling shot switch being just a hair too close and misfiring could cause it.

#1574 3 years ago

I just bought a F14 to keep my Black Hole company. Its in fairly decent shape with the normal F14 problems. Got parts coming to fix most of the stuff. It had perfect plastics until Yagov had his way with the right sling plastic. I even had a plastic protector set in my cart to buy later If anyone has a right sling plastic, let me know. The lights on this are crazy!

#1575 3 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

I just bought a F14 to keep my Black Hole company. Its in fairly decent shape with the normal F14 problems. Got parts coming to fix most of the stuff. It had perfect plastics until Yagov had his way with the right sling plastic. I even had a plastic protector set in my cart to buy later If anyone has a right sling plastic, let me know. The lights on this are crazy!

I've needed the right sling plastic forever. Then I found one, replaced it, and broke it again...so now I have one and need it forever again. It's not common to find, so if you find two, please let me know.

#1576 3 years ago

Any-one have the issue where all the out-lane switches don't work? ( including the kick-back ) Ive checked all the fuses, everything was working fine and then I noticed the kick-back didn't work. Checked all 4 switches and none are working now??

Im looking for a right side sling too, if the Canadian dollar didn't suck so bad, I would just order a full set but with shipping, exchange, its over $200 and I only have 2 broken plastics. ( the other is up top and you don't really see it )

#1577 3 years ago

Ill probably break down and order a new set, but make sure I get protectors before I install them. I so wish you could just buy single pieces...the rest of mine are just fine.

#1578 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Any-one have the issue where all the out-lane switches don't work? ( including the kick-back ) Ive checked all the fuses, everything was working fine and then I noticed the kick-back didn't work. Checked all 4 switches and none are working now??

I don't have the manual handy right now, but are they on the same Matrix?

I was having a similar problem with my Rollergames took me days/hours to sort out. I was tracking/tracing everything back to no avail. It turned out there was an undocumented under the PF fuse. Popped in a new one and all of my kickbacks were up and running. Not sure if the F14 has one or not, but might be worth a look.

#1579 3 years ago

Yagov is not supposed to shoot towards the slingshots is it?

#1580 3 years ago
Quoted from koen12344:

Yagov is not supposed to shoot towards the slingshots is it?

No, but even on the standard strength setting he jets the ball fast enough for a ricochet off the flippers that will often propel it off the flipper bat to the right if your not fast enough on the flip. This is why everyone gets right side slingshot plastics broken and not the left. Sometimes the ball will even go right over the flipper, and I've even had them fly over the sling and into the shooter lane!

yagov2.jpg

#1581 3 years ago

Thats exactly how mine broke. It bounced off the left flipper into the plastic, broke it, and the ball ended up in the shooter lane...lol. It was pretty cool except the whole breaking part.

#1582 3 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Any-one have the issue where all the out-lane switches don't work? ( including the kick-back ) Ive checked all the fuses, everything was working fine and then I noticed the kick-back didn't work. Checked all 4 switches and none are working now??

These are all in the same column (8) of the switch matrix. Put the pin in the switch test and remove J8 and J10 and use a jumper wire to jump the pins j8-9 with J10-3 through J10-7 and see if it registers. This will tell you if you have a problem on the board or the playfield. If it's the playfield then you probably have a wire that came loose or a bad diode. If it's the board start with replacing the Q46 transistor.

#1583 3 years ago

Hey guys,
I've got an issue with my f14 tomcat. My ball launch solenoid locked on and burnt up the diode during a game. I changed out the solenoid and put in a new diode. Tried to turn it on and the coil energizes and locks on until the fuse blows. So I changed out the fuse and the Q32 transistor that drives this coil. Still no change.

Any ideas? I have a multimeter but I'm not sure where to look next.

#1584 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Hey guys,
I've got an issue with my f14 tomcat. My ball launch solenoid locked on and burnt up the diode during a game. I changed out the solenoid and put in a new diode. Tried to turn it on and the coil energizes and locks on until the fuse blows. So I changed out the fuse and the Q32 transistor that drives this coil. Still no change.
Any ideas? I have a multimeter but I'm not sure where to look next.

First, run a switch levels test and make certain that the switch #24 ball popper is not stuck on. It's probably not, but a good thing to check anyway. When you changed the Q32 driver transistor, it's always a good idea to change the predriver transistor at the same time.

#1585 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

First, run a switch levels test and make certain that the switch #24 ball popper is not stuck on. It's probably not, but a good thing to check anyway. When you changed the Q32 driver transistor, it's always a good idea to change the predriver transistor at the same time.

Thanks Wayout, the ball popper switch is not stuck on and it does register correctly in the switch edge test.

How can I tell which transistor is the predriver transistor?

#1586 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

How can I tell which transistor is the predriver transistor?

You have to read the schematic. Q28 is the predriver for Q32. If you still have an issue after replaceing Q28 then replace the IC at U20.

Screenshot from 2015-10-23 20:39:40.png

#1587 3 years ago

My schematic I printed out is really fuzzy. I will replace Q28 first, and then the chip if need be. Thanks for the assistance!

#1588 3 years ago

Does anyone have a logic probe that is willing to buzz out pin 10 and 11 of U49 for me. I'm getting the following in attract mode;

U49
pin 11 - solid HIGH
pin 10 - fast pulsing HIGH

The input is pin 11 is the output is pin 10. My understanding of this IC is that whatever is going into pin 11 should be coming out of pin 10 but that is not happening in my case.

Could someone verify their U49 for me. In attract mode please.

Thank you!

#1589 3 years ago

I wondering if someone can help me with an issue Im having. When locking in balls, ball 1 locks, ball 2 locks, ball 3 locks, then when ball 4 comes to lock, it kicks the ball out of the right shoot (ball 3) like it should. At that point, there should be 3 balls locked, ready to start multiball. However, as soon as I activate the upper right flipper, it shoots the top right ball out (where ball 3 locks), so that I have 2 balls going. I know that switch is bad (I tested and found it only sometimes activates to know a ball is there), but cant see why that would cause this issue. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

#1590 3 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

I wondering if someone can help me with an issue Im having. When locking in balls, ball 1 locks, ball 2 locks, ball 3 locks, then when ball 4 comes to lock, it kicks the ball out of the right shoot (ball 3) like it should. At that point, there should be 3 balls locked, ready to start multiball. However, as soon as I activate the upper right flipper, it shoots the top right ball out (where ball 3 locks), so that I have 2 balls going. I know that switch is bad (I tested and found it only sometimes activates to know a ball is there), but cant see why that would cause this issue. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

The pin thinks that your ramp switch was activated. I'm not sure which ball your talking about but the pin thinks switch 30, 31 or 32 has activated. If it detects that it will shoot the ball out thinking another ball is coming. Remove the balls. Put the pin into the switch level test that will show multiple switch closers and activate the flipper and it will probably show the ramp switch activating as well. Test other switches in the same rows/columns and see if you get the same results. But you have some type of switch matrix problem. Your going to have to test around to see if its a switch row or column problem. Or it could be something shorting out that is causing the other switches to fire.

#1591 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Does anyone have a logic probe that is willing to buzz out pin 10 and 11 of U49 for me. I'm getting the following in attract mode;

My F14 is down and out right now. When I get it working again I will be glad to do this but it might be a few days or next week before I can get to it. Hopefully someone else will be able to help out before then.

#1592 3 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

The pin thinks that your ramp switch was activated. I'm not sure which ball your talking about but the pin thinks switch 30, 31 or 32 has activated. If it detects that it will shoot the ball out thinking another ball is coming. Remove the balls. Put the pin into the switch level test that will show multiple switch closers and activate the flipper and it will probably show the ramp switch activating as well. Test other switches in the same rows/columns and see if you get the same results. But you have some type of switch matrix problem. Your going to have to test around to see if its a switch row or column problem. Or it could be something shorting out that is causing the other switches to fire.

That makes total sense. Ill have to play around. Thanks!

#1593 3 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

My F14 is down and out right now. When I get it working again I will be glad to do this but it might be a few days or next week before I can get to it. Hopefully someone else will be able to help out before then.

I feel your pain. My has been down and out for just over a month. I fixed one issue only to have another rear its ugly head. I've been chasing this new issue for over two weeks. Damn life keeps getting in the way of my troubleshooting.

#1594 3 years ago

I rebuilt the top flippers on my F14 and now the top left is kind of shotgunning. I tried adjusting the switches, but it's either doing this or not working at all. Can something other than a stuck switch cause this?

#1595 3 years ago

I guess I will have to add that I am a member of the F14 Club too. New to Pinside, but have had my F14 for about 6 years now.

I pulled the PF, cleaned it up, new decals, re-painted and auto clear coated it, new plastics, installed LED's, touched up the cabinet.....

I will try to post a couple pictures.......
Before 100_0131.JPG

After 001.JPG

#1596 3 years ago

very nice!!!

#1597 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I rebuilt the top flippers on my F14 and now the top left is kind of shotgunning. I tried adjusting the switches, but it's either doing this or not working at all. Can something other than a stuck switch cause this?
» YouTube video

Check the EOS gap.

I take it it was working before you rebuilt the flippers? I'm having a similar issue with my pop bumper machine-gunning.

#1598 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I rebuilt the top flippers on my F14 and now the top left is kind of shotgunning. I tried adjusting the switches, but it's either doing this or not working at all. Can something other than a stuck switch cause this?

Just a guess would be that the coil has lost the low power side of the coil. After the EOS switch engages to enable the low power side of the coil if its not working it will drop down and the EOS will disengage and fire the coil again. Inspect the coil and make sure all the tiny coil wires are connected and not broken. Also make sure all the power wires are secure and you have power to them.

#1599 3 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

Just a guess would be that the coil has lost the low power side of the coil. After the EOS switch engages to enable the low power side of the coil if its not working it will drop down and the EOS will disengage and fire the coil again. Inspect the coil and make sure all the tiny coil wires are connected and not broken. Also make sure all the power wires are secure and you have power to them.

OK, so I looked at this coil and compared it to the one on the right-the wiring for the outer lugs had been reversed. My friend had labeled the lugs and the wires, but they were completely opposite of the other coil. Other odd thing was that this coil does not have any diodes on it? That being said it was working before we took apart the flippers to rebuild.

I flipped the wires around to match the coil on the right and now I get nada. I'm guessing I should go back to where we started and go from there.

#1600 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

OK, so I looked at this coil and compared it to the one on the right-the wiring for the outer lugs had been reversed. My friend had labeled the lugs and the wires, but they were completely opposite of the other coil. Other odd thing was that this coil does not have any diodes on it? That being said it was working before we took apart the flippers to rebuild.
I flipped the wires around to match the coil on the right and now I get nada. I'm guessing I should go back to where we started and go from there.

Photos would help. Please post.

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