What was wrong with the coil that you sent back?

Did you have this connected and then tested with the new cpu? If you did then you blew up the driver on the new board. This will be a very important learning lesson for everyone in the club, always test new parts before you install them.

This really isn't your fault, someone sold you a defective new part. You took it on good faith that it was good and installed it and pop goes the mosfet.

Fuses are there to stop the wiring from catching fire and nothing more.

Most likely no, when you have a dead short on a circuit that is switch by a transistor the amperage will climb past the transistors maximum current and or wattage limits in a few milliseconds and a SB fuse will not blow for @ a half a second. But what is important is that the 1 amp fuse would limit the damage to just the driver transistor and there will not be any board trace damage, so it will be a simple repair and look good as new if done properly. What you need to remember is that coils do not just short and this is not a typical problem, so the only safeguard from this is to test all new parts before installation.

How did you test these switches?

Take a pic of the cabinet switch showing the wires.

With the balls removed, does any switches show in switch test?

When you add the jumper like you did before and start a game. Without pushing the flipper button, if you lift the lower right flipper up does it stay up?

All flippers need to have there own EOS switch or they will melt. The upper flippers don't have any switch matrix switches.
What does each winding measure in ohms on the lower right coil?

This makes a lot more sense now.

I think it comes from the flipper power supply to the p/f coil then back to the back box on the same harness but then U turns down into the cabinet to the switch and then returns to the backbox to the cpu flipper relay and then to ground. I can check later on mine if you like.

Nothing wrong there.

These problems are related to a bad U-50 chip.

If you have a power supply from an old computer and the means to make a connector for J-17, then testing on the workbench is much easier then in the backbox.

I cut the thinner wire on the coil about two inches from the coil and install one of these. It takes only a minute to install.

pasted_image (resized).png

No worries, I'm just crazy busy in the summer months.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-804&Product_Code=PPA-F14-INS

Play Ball!

So shiny!

Nothing will blow up, but when you have a switch stuck closed or a shorted diode you will then have random score problems every time the spinner switch
closes.

You don't have to redo the switch stack. Just remove the correct wire from the switch and solder the diode so that its real close to the switch. Then solder the wire real close to the diode. Then slide a piece of clear tubing over the wire and diode.

You said a bad word! ∆∆∆∆

You lost me here, why would you have to move any connectors?

Does display #1, #2 and #4 work 100% correct. If so the display glass is bad and needs to be replaced.

With the game on check the red wire for 30 volts dc. If this is good then take a jumper wire connected to the ground braid and touch the other end to the brown wire, this will turn on the the relay. The motor should turn and the 3 lights should light. A pic of your wiring in the back box maybe helpful too. After you confirm that the relay works like this I will help you troubleshoot the CPU solenoid test issue.

I have an example of both style of boards in my parts, as I was going to change mine to an early version to get the bottom lamps to light the speaker panel. Neither factory board has the connectors reversed. There are size differences in both height and width from early to late. So the holes in the panel are different size too and the mounting brackets. The factory mounting brackets hold the display off of the panel so the connectors don't touch. He just didn't have the correct brackets to convert it to the later style. If you want to run the later version you need to make a new panel wood with the correct size opening and use the later brackets.

If you put the game in display test and lock it on the the number "8" so that all segments and all digits are lit. Then use a volt meter set to dc volts and the black lead stuck under the ground braid, use the red lead and check each pin on display 4 glass and compare to each pin of display 3 glass. If they read @ the same then you will be certain that the glass has out gassed.

Use these for the outside pair. Leave these off if using led flashers.

Use these for the inside pair.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-804&Product_Code=PPS-03-7981-5

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-804&Product_Code=PPS-03-7981

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-804&Product_Code=PPS-03-7981-10

In AMERICA its red, white and blue!

Mine is a bit more golden then yellow, but I want a new white one!

I swear I could feel my IQ dropping by the second.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-aftermarket-beacon-help-for-dummies#post-4289758

Let me know if you need some help.

Green/yellow connects to the green/yellow wire.
Black wire connects to the green/yellow wire also.

Yellow wire connects to the green/violet wire on the T target.

John Deere will have them to but at a higher cost.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/69#post-4544892

I will save you some reading.

Use your logic probe on U-49 pin 1 and pin 2 in coil test. Do you have pulses? Yes, the check U-50 pin 1, do you have pulses? Yes, then replace Q-76. Let me know what you find.

This is a normal off state for a RD board.

What happens when you briefly ground J-18 pin 8?

Where was this board from originally? It wouldn't supprize me if it's from a F-14. From what you describe, both boards are damaged in a similar manner.

You will have to install this board and troubleshoot it too.

This is because you put it in a High Speed machine. If you want to run a 11a board in a 11 game you need to add a jumper on the back of the board.

They change early in production.

This is because one of the warming resistor is good and one of them is bad. If you are going to run led flasher you will need to remove the outside resistors from every resistor board or remove the black ground wires and insulate.

These were removed from the P/F so they wouldn't short out against the targets.

Yep!

Have you cleaned the contacts with a dollar bill and some alcohol? If that doesn't help, the gold layer of the contact maybe worn thru or has been removed from improper cleaning in the past. Since you can't find a replacement switch assembly you can replace just the contacts on your switch assembly with new contacts from PBR.

Contact-SM-X

CU-Contact

Switch Contacts

We offer Contacts for the blades listed above.

The CONTACT-SM-X are a silver alloy- gold flashed for EM/SS use.

The CU-CONTACT are tungstein face, copper backed for high current applications.

Contact-SM-X
CU-Contact

$0.36ea
$0.40ea

I'm not sure if you have a early production machine or that someone just installed two posts in place of the correct part. But it should look like this.
( Pic blatantly stolen from another Pinsider).

9ad8993bb140e9abb90d4add74e3dcb78e0da956 (resized).jpg

I think this is the part you would need.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-6933

Me TOO!

Its so shiny!

You did check the single fuse holder next to the relay in the back box.

You wont be able to tell the difference. A pop by itself is always going to be mellow.

Add a high current driver, then change the pop power to 50 volts. That may wake it up a bit.

Not hard at all. I recommend switching the power from the divertors to the pop. This also solves the blacken CPU sindrome. Most games came with 75 volts on the divertors ( purple/yellow) which is too high and 25 volts (red/white) on the pop which is too low. If you buy a high current driver board you will have a clean install but will have to make two IDC connectors to finish the install. This will cost @ 35.00 dollars. This can also be done with a TIP 36 and 220 ohm resistor for @ 7.00 dollars, just not as pretty.

No links for this as I just do this for my own pins. But if people are interested I can do something with some pictures.

The white striped wire connects to the non banded side of the diode.

Can also be a bad diode to.

This is more of a common problem then you know. SCR6 has been know for phantom tilting before.

You will need a 5 and a 6 pin .156 IDC connector and 2 key pins.

_High_Current_Driver_Board (resized).JPG

Mount the board with J-2 facing the coil. Remove the wires and diode from the pop coil. Connect pins one and five of J-2 to the coil. Doesn't matter which way they go because the diode is on the driver board now. Connect the 75 volt purple/yellow wire to J-1 pin 5. Connect a ground wire to J-1 pin 1, this can be gotten from the ground of a near by snubber relay board or a ground from a resistor board. Lastly connect the blue/yellow that was connected to the pop coil to J-1 pin 4. Easy peasy lemon squeezy!!!

resistor board (resized).jpg

snubber relay (resized).jpg

On either side of the pop coil is the left and right center eject coils, both of these should have a purple/yellow power wire on them. Just add on to one of these.

Or chip.

Does the 03c and 04c flash bulbs on the playfield work? They are tied together with the bulbs on the backboard. Are you using LEDs or standard bulbs in the backboard?

Lots of good info on this page.

solenoid table (resized).PNG

Ok, then there is nothing wrong with the resistor boards. You either have a bad bulb in each socket, a bad lamp socket or bad wiring to those 2 bulbs.

These are considered solenoids and not lamps, so run the solenoid test from the menu and you will see them work.

Yes if it had been a bad resistor board you could have tested each resistor for ohms. The larger resistor should be 5 ohms and the smaller warming resistor should read 330 ohms.

Did you look for a cracked solder joint where the lamp socket connects to the PCB board. Also a lot of the time a bulb filament will look fine, but when power is applied the cracked filament opens up and the bulb doesn't work. Best to replace them with a know working bulb and retest.

Left out by the factory. But it can be reconnected if you want to.

Look for the flasher board with the black/orange wire, check the resistance of the larger resistor closer to the blk/org wire.

The resistor board for these 4 bulbs is behind the insert board. Follow the wire from the pair of non working bulbs to the flasher board to see which side of the board you need to test the resistor on.

Quick answer is no, but most people will not understand why and think this is a hack of some sort. I think you should try soldering directly to the board first, you may find it's not as hard as you think it is. This is a good board to try on as the traces are larger and not so delicate. Adding some solder to the wire and the iron first will stop you from needing a third hand while connecting the wire. Also buy some solder flux to make the solder flow better.

Yep, then while it's hot insert the wire into the hole, then remove the soldering iron while holding the wire still until it cools down.

It is the score switch for the left kicker. Switch #57.

These are capacitors for reducing the arc across the switch contacts.

It should. It's switch #58 and has a white/red and green/grey wires on it.

Those should go to Yagov coil on top of the playfield.

I could use some more info on what you have done to the machine. Was there any alkaline damage to the CPU board?

Beacons are 26 vac and the VUK coil is 50 volts dc. But the VUK coil is turned on by a snubber relay, this relay is powered by B+ which comes from the same winding that power the beacons. I would check the connector 6P1 in the cabinet for a poor connection on the red wires. Then I would remove the snubber and look for cracked solder joints.

trans (resized).PNG

cracked pins (resized).jpg

The fuse with the purple/yellow wire is for the 50 volt coils.

Yes, 2.5 slow blow.

Check the switch in the lower right ball lock.

This is the special solenoid section. The jumper is on special solenoid #3.

I'm not saying that I have tried this, but I would cut off the mounting bracket. Then I would solder on a piece of wire for each lead to the board. Then epoxy the socket to the board lining up the center pin to the hole in the board. Hold It straight until dry. Then solder the wires to the socket tabs.

He installed the wrong transistor. He should have installed a 15030. I'm not sure what else is damaged too.

You should have used a MJE15030 not a MJE15031.
The power supply needs to be recapped too.
The next time you work on the power supply only connect this one connector. Then power on the game and check for the correct outputs on the power supply first before connecting the CPU board.
When done let us know what you got.

ps (resized).PNG

Did the epoxy job work?

Sounds good, post pics when done.

Playball!

When it stops working, check the 5 volts on the power supply and on the CPU board. You may have some cracked header pins.

Correct, but in the manual it is labeled as EOS switch. It's not a lane change switch either as High Speed does have lane change lamps. But order a lane change switch for your replacement part.

It is under the play field, all switch matrix switches will have a diode on it. The other pair of switches are to fire the coil and have nothing to do with scoring points.

You need the find the third switch under the play field. The switch maybe out of adjustment, dirty, has a bad diode or a broken wire.

No just 3 for each sling.

You need to test ZR1, ZR2, D-3 and Q-2.

You can use 1n4001 diodes for all switches and all lamps, but not for coils. Williams switched to the green coils to stop target damage. Proto and early games were all blue coils. Your call on switching or not.

No, they don't have a lane change switches just EOS switches.

You can clean low voltage switches such as the lane change or the sling score switch, however EOS switches are high voltage tungsten contacts and must be filed to renew the surface. Tungsten is very hard and takes quite a bit of time to file it smooth.

flip (resized).PNG

Correct.

When the contacts are too thin to file. Always readjust the EOS switch after filing.

You adjusted it to be closed when the flipper is up.
It's open at rest.
Did you test the diode.

This switch will not give the warning as the other switch did. It isn't programmed to give warnings as it not used normally.

I marked it for you (red circle).

They both share a same wire (green/red) I would follow this wire looking for a break.

f-14 (resized).PNG

Put the game in display test. Lock it so that all displays show the number eight. Then compare the voltage readings from each pin on the good display #4 to the to the dead display #3. If they read the same then the glass has out gassed. If the readings are different, then there is a problem on the display driver board.

Take the black lead and stick it under the ground braid in the back box. Set meter to DC volts. Probe each pin with the red lead.

Nope, this is for the comma on the display.

The white circle is the +90 volts (pins 6,34), the black diamond is the -100 volts (pins 7,31). All of the rest of the pins are data signals and strobe signals.

With the number 8 locked on the displays, there should be a least 15 signals going to each display. If 1 or 2 signals were wrong the display wouldn't be a completely blank display. Unless the missing signals were the +90.00 or the negative 100.00 volts. So if those 4 pins are good and some of the other pin look good you should have something on the display. If you do replace this display with an led and want to sell the old one, give me a PM. I use the parts to repair pins in my local area.

Your numbers are exactly what I would expect. #3 display is bad. If you want to keep things on budget you can buy a new glass for 75.00 dollars and sent both to me and I can repair it for you. You just pay the shipping.

Big Daddy's Enterprises has nos displays for 73.00 each.

Unplug J-8 and J-10 from the CPU board. Then put the game back into switch test. You should see no switches show up on the display. If you do see switch numbers on the display you have a CPU problem.

Spend ten minutes and just look over all the lamp sockets, ensure that none have gotten bent into a switch blade or diode.
Look at all switch diodes and wires to ensure nothing is shorting out a diode and all switches are open.

Post some pics so a bunch of eyes can look too.

http://web.archive.org/web/20180126193546/http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Switch_Matrix_Row_and_Column_Testing

Do this first.

Take a pic of the resistor board.

You need to have R-2 and R-3 installed on every resistor board.

Playball!

I like the pinscore better.

Check the outputs of the power supply.

It might, but you may also have multiple issues.

There is a break in the purple/yellow wire daisy chain, so someone added this yellow wire to supply power back to the purple/yellow.

Correct. If you need more help with this just ask.

This is the coil activation switch that is working.

This is the sling score switch that is not working. It is under the play field. May need to be cleaned, adjusted, have the diode replaced or may have a broken wire.

Look for a bad diode on the snubber relays.

Playball!!

How about checking the fuse?