(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Jumping-Box
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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 5,581 posts in this topic. You are on page 27 of 112.
#1301 8 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

Hey Snux, care to share how you did that moving radar?

Buy something like this? (search for led hobby kit)

k6.jpgk6.jpg
#1302 8 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Can someone tell me the winning lottery numbers for tonight, so I can retire and finally find some spare pinball time again?

Tell me about it. Dang work interferes with pinball time. So does yardwork, children, laundry, eating and sleeping. Not enough hours in the day

#1303 8 years ago

I just replaced my acid damaged nightmare of a driver board with a new Rottendog one and I'm having a couple of issues. Most of my special solenoids are firing out of order, when it gets to the right slingshot the lower diverter kicks, when the lower diverter is supposed to go the pop bumper kicks and so on.

I also have a bit of a hum that fluctuates with the lighting of the controlled lamps. I've seen this before when the driver board wasn't fastened properly in the backbox but they all have new hardware and are in there nice and tight.

#1304 8 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

Hey Snux, care to share how you did that moving radar?

It's one of these

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1463

driven by a little Arduino. I'm not sure if you've seen my F-14 "Second Sortie" project, I'm redoing the software with a P-ROC and using an Arduino to control a bunch of RGB lighting including this radar.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-second-sortie-information-and-on-going-development

#1305 8 years ago

I have checked out your project. It looks awesome. Looks a little too complicated for this cat, but the radar would be a nice addition.

#1306 8 years ago

Here're new pictures...

DSCN1413.JPGDSCN1413.JPG

This is the capacitor to power up the upper flipperfingers

DSCN1419.JPGDSCN1419.JPG

Here the restored flashers from Prototype and Early protected against short circuit.

DSCN1418.JPGDSCN1418.JPG

The key-fob signed from Steve, in my opinion the best place to put in.

DSCN1429.JPGDSCN1429.JPG

Mirror metal plate left...

DSCN1428.JPGDSCN1428.JPG

... and right.

The Apron was in a bad condition.

DSCN1432.JPGDSCN1432.JPG

I've cleaned it outside...

DSCN1445.JPGDSCN1445.JPG

... and inside

DSCN1446.JPGDSCN1446.JPG

The Speakerpanel will be upgraded, too.

First sanding...

DSCN1455.JPGDSCN1455.JPG

then painting...

DSCN1458.JPGDSCN1458.JPG

... and new LED-Display.

DSCN1459.JPGDSCN1459.JPG

I will change the speakers against Visaton FX16-4 and SC10N-8, they will fit into the panel like the original. They also harmonize with the Visaton BG20 in the cabinet. I just have to use a 10 yF Capacitor for the SC10N.

The panel for the translite was not so beautiful.

So again sanding...

DSCN1471.JPGDSCN1471.JPG

... and painting.

DSCN1483.JPGDSCN1483.JPG

With the new Superfluxx-LED it will be an amazing effect with the translite.

#1307 8 years ago

I've been prepping my game for a tournament and I want to leave flight insurance on but disable all extra balls. Seems that the game considers a flight insurance ball an "extra ball", so when I set extra balls to 0 in the settings, it doesn't end up giving a flight insurance ball in-game. Is there any possible combination of settings to enable flight insurance but disable extra balls?

#1308 8 years ago

Here're the new speakers - not high-end, but better as original at all.
They fit perfect in the panel and the drillings are same.

DSCN1498.JPGDSCN1498.JPG

DSCN1499.JPGDSCN1499.JPG

DSCN1500.JPGDSCN1500.JPG

DSCN1517.JPGDSCN1517.JPG

Now the panel is ready, I had to turn the speakers for 90° to be able to solder the cables.

#1309 8 years ago

Next step is my "Afterburner" for the upper flipperfingers.

With this modified circuit you get much more power into the game.

DSCN1518.JPGDSCN1518.JPG

DSCN1519.JPGDSCN1519.JPG

DSCN1522.JPGDSCN1522.JPG

DSCN1523.JPGDSCN1523.JPG

With the little switch you can fly without "Afterburner".

DSCN1524.JPGDSCN1524.JPG

The sign just shows the direction how to switch to play with "Afterburner".
DSCN1525.JPGDSCN1525.JPG

#1310 8 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Next step is my "Afterburner" for the upper flipperfingers.
With this modified circuit you get much more power into the game.
DSCN1518.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
DSCN1519.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
DSCN1522.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
DSCN1523.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
With the little switch you can fly without "Afterburner".
DSCN1524.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
The sign just shows the direction how to switch to play with "Afterburner".
DSCN1525.JPG (Click image to enlarge)

You're dedicated, I'll give you that.

#1311 8 years ago

Now, the speaker panel is finished with self build filter.

DSCN1553.JPGDSCN1553.JPG

DSCN1554.JPGDSCN1554.JPG

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#1312 8 years ago

Today the apron was finished.

Inside...

DSCN1570.JPGDSCN1570.JPG

and outside in top condition - better than new!

DSCN1572.JPGDSCN1572.JPG

#1313 8 years ago

The machine looks beautiful. It must be costing you a fortune to put this much work into it.

#1314 8 years ago

I have had so much work with it but now the end is in sight.

I just have to do some cosmetic into the cabinet and the electric for the proto-flashers.

Just take a look at this beauty... I love this pinball so much.

DSCN1579.JPGDSCN1579.JPG
Finished speakerpanel

DSCN1582.JPGDSCN1582.JPG
Undamaged translite

DSCN1583.JPGDSCN1583.JPG

DSCN1584.JPGDSCN1584.JPG

#1315 8 years ago

Can't wait to see it with the mirror blades exposed.

#1316 8 years ago

Me too
Here's my idea with decals on the apron - it looks like original.
They're colored same as the apron in glossy RAL 9005
With my special playfield glass the outlines are invisible.

DSCN1585.JPGDSCN1585.JPG

DSCN1586.JPGDSCN1586.JPG

DSCN1594.JPGDSCN1594.JPG

#1317 8 years ago

Polished plate for main switch...

DSCN1602.JPGDSCN1602.JPG

#1318 8 years ago

Fantastic work !!....where did you buy your apron decal? And your white color for panel backbox is glossy or mat?

#1319 8 years ago

Hi pinballfan,

the decals are created on my own - if you need them, send me your Email.
The panel is glossy white and I did the same for this:

DSCN1615.JPGDSCN1615.JPG

DSCN1616.JPGDSCN1616.JPG

DSCN1618.JPGDSCN1618.JPG

#1320 8 years ago

That's looking great!
Are you going to illuminate your flippers buttons while you're working in the cabinet? Vid has a nice guide on how to easily and inexpensively do it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

#1321 8 years ago

No,
I have created button in full Aluminium - they're in outstanding quality.

Flippertaster Aluminium.JPGFlippertaster Aluminium.JPG

Next week we launch new customized sets of buttons with different options.
Just wait, I will show some pictures then.

#1322 8 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

No,
I have created button in full Aluminium - they're in outstanding quality.

Oh right, sorry, I do remember seeing you post those earlier. Those are pretty slick looking, good job.

#1323 8 years ago

Thank you, the next generation will be much more innovative.

#1324 8 years ago

Every once in a while, say 1 in 10 games, the first ball will have NO background music. Only the voice and special sounds, but not the background music.

Once the second ball starts it comes back.

Thoughts?

#1325 8 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Every once in a while, say 1 in 10 games, the first ball will have NO background music. Only the voice and special sounds, but not the background music.

Once the second ball starts it comes back.

Its normal. Just wait a sec or two longer before you hit the credit button after turning the pin on.

#1326 8 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

No,
I have created button in full Aluminium - they're in outstanding quality.
Flippertaster Aluminium.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Next week we launch new customized sets of buttons with different options.
Just wait, I will show some pictures then.

Wow, how did you do this part? On cnc lathe machine?

#1327 8 years ago

Yes, full automated cnc.
It's just another feelling with those buttons - no comparison to that plastic crap.

#1328 8 years ago

Now I'm working on the Proto-Flashers.
First step was to separate the blue and white flashers.
Now they're working how Steve had designed it.

Here you see the white and the white/black wire soldered together.

DSCN1634.JPGDSCN1634.JPG

Just unsolder the white/black wire and solder it to the connector lamp on the other side of the resistor board.

DSCN1636.JPGDSCN1636.JPG

Flasher 9 and 10 with LED.

DSCN1642.JPGDSCN1642.JPG

Now you see the blue one on flasher 9.

DSCN1643.JPGDSCN1643.JPG

The white one on flasher 10.

DSCN1644.JPGDSCN1644.JPG

And here're the isolated bulb sockets as they used to be in the proto-models and early productions.
They will work on flasher 7.

DSCN1633.JPGDSCN1633.JPG

#1329 8 years ago

This night I finished the circuit for the proto-flashers.

First I solder a black wire on the switch-board to connector A7 and lay the wire to a resistor-board with free connectors driver and lamp.

Switch-Board.jpgSwitch-Board.jpg

Next I solder the wire from A7 to the connector driver on the resistor-board.
The other wire is soldered on connector lamp and put to the proto-flashers.
The 24 volts must be taken from multiplexed lamps with orange wire.
I took a red wire back to the proto-flashers.
Don't solder the wire on the power-supply for the coils, this won't work!

Resistor-Board.jpgResistor-Board.jpg

Here the first of the two flashers - protected against short circuit.
On the backside of the target I use the same isolator as fitted frontside.
The bulb socket is isolated twice.

Flasher 7.jpgFlasher 7.jpg

#1330 8 years ago
#1331 8 years ago

Today I've finished the flashers.
All is working fine.

DSCN1669.JPGDSCN1669.JPG

My last building site - the beacons.
I'll restore them complete...

DSCN1673.JPGDSCN1673.JPG

DSCN1676.JPGDSCN1676.JPG

DSCN1693.JPGDSCN1693.JPG

#1332 8 years ago

Cleaned and polished parts of the beacons.

DSCN1712.JPGDSCN1712.JPG

#1333 8 years ago

I also have to fix the power supply and use a power reducer.

DSCN1727.JPGDSCN1727.JPG

#1334 8 years ago

The Beacons are ready - take a look, it's better then it ever was!
All parts cleaned and polished including drive.

DSCN1761.JPGDSCN1761.JPG

DSCN1762.JPGDSCN1762.JPG

#1335 8 years ago

Fantastic work Averell, better than new. I have seen F14's with lights behind the 'Williams Pinball #1 in the world'
Is that easy to add? It looks like from the pictures your machine has it fitted,

#1336 8 years ago

What exactly do you mean?
Behind the speaker panel - normally there're no lights.
You think there're light because there're sockets in the LED-Panel?
Well, this panel is same as used in the Williams Millionaire pinball, but in F-14 Tomcat, there's no function!

#1337 8 years ago

Does anyone have a scan of the RESCUE decal for the Rescue Kickback area? Mine has worn off and I want to replace it. It's the one closest to the apron by the left flipper button. PM me if you have a scan. Much appreciated!

#1338 8 years ago

Today I finished the power supply - very beautiful look.

DSCN1768.JPGDSCN1768.JPG

DSCN1776.JPGDSCN1776.JPG

DSCN1781.JPGDSCN1781.JPG

#1339 8 years ago

Here's a picture how the F-14 looks at the moment...

DSCN1787.JPGDSCN1787.JPG

#1340 8 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

What exactly do you mean?
Behind the speaker panel - normally there're no lights.
You think there're light because there're sockets in the LED-Panel?
Well, this panel is same as used in the Williams Millionaire pinball, but in F-14 Tomcat, there's no function!

Never mind, I saw an F14 at a pinball show where the owner had custom fitted lights behind the panel similar to the millionaire pinball. It looked really good.

#1341 8 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Here's a picture how the F-14 looks at the moment...
DSCN1787.JPG

Power that baby up and turn off the lights! Then take a few pics!

#1342 8 years ago

@ChoppaCade: Good idea... I think about it.

@FiftyQuid: Also a good idea...

#1343 8 years ago

nice!where did you buy the red and blue led for your diverter?

#1344 8 years ago

@pinballfan: Do you mean the led for slingshots? There are no led installed. The rest of lights are led and I've bought them in a complete set from camper (www.superfluxxer.de). But you have to keep in mind that you have to install some standard lights into the circuit to prevent "spirit lights" by the led.

#1345 8 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

But you have to keep in mind that you have to install some standard lights into the circuit to prevent "spirit lights" by the led.

Only if you leave the warming resistors in. If you disable them then you can fully LED your flashers. There are many thread on this so I won't go into it.

#1346 8 years ago

I think pinballfan meant what the lights you used for the "Lock On" (Red) and "Landing" (Blue) on the diverter housing, upper left of the playfield.

#1347 8 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

I think pinballfan meant what the lights you used for the "Lock On" (Red) and "Landing" (Blue) on the diverter housing, upper left of the playfield.

Yes, this is what he meant. I was going to ask the same question.

#1348 8 years ago

For those I used LED in all and saw no issues.

This vid was before I swapped out the flipper rubber and added more LED's to the GI.

#1349 8 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

I think pinballfan meant what the lights you used for the "Lock On" (Red) and "Landing" (Blue) on the diverter housing, upper left of the playfield.

I have full leds in every socket in the machine. No issues.

#1350 8 years ago

Yes for the diverter body upper left.blue and red.

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