Id take it, but it says it ended with buy it now.

Does anybody have a lead on replacement chevron inserts? My F-14 still has mylar, and I was always inclined to just leave it alone, but just realized that at least 2 of the red inserts are lifting. Still not sure if I should go into high gear restoring the game, or just leave it and hope for the best. The mylar is bubbling in those areas (and a couple others) but it doesn't affect gameplay at all. Thoughts?

This is just me. But if the game plays fine I leave it be. Also if overall the game looks good leave it. A few little flaws that don't affect game play aren't worth the headache unless you want to go into full blow restore mode. Go big or go home....or just play and have fun!

Ben, you don't have to replace the inserts - I believe WOZ uses one color so those are available, but the other color is not available. Just heat the inserts with a hair dryer and clamp them down, use some epoxy glue around the edges from beneath the playfield, and let dry.

From playing your table, the chevrons DO move the ball around a little bit but not that much - be warned, if you remove the mylar, you will spend a LOT of time removing the left over sticky mess on the playfield - also, mylar tends to hide planking so you may be faced with that also once the mylar is off..................my Taxi had planking underneath the mylar that was not noticeable when it was down, so I decided to re-mylar after touchups and water-slide decals over the inserts.......

Replacement chevrons will come up eventually from pps, or so Rick has told me. Sounds like you just need to heat up the raised ones with a hair dryer, push them back level, then set them with glue. Lots of tutorials on how to do that.

My concern had to do with resetting them while still under the mylar. Seems like you could inadventently create a big mess that way.

Most likely I'll wait until replacement inserts are available before getting into it. I have to get another pin before then also, so I have at least 2 pins to play while restoring the other.

I've got a bunch of chevron inserts still in my junk playfield, they're in reasonable condition but would likely need new decals as a minimum. If they're of any use and you need them I could try and get some out.

Anybody see the used, faded, cracked chevron inserts out on Ebay for $75?

ebay.com link: williams f 14 tomcat pinball playfield plastic inserts red insert

cracked me up.

Snux - I think I'm going to let it be a sign once new ones become available. If i'm going to go to the effort, I will want to make everything minty fresh!

Curbfeeler - yep. I laughed too.

How is it that we can't 3D print these sort of things by now?

When I see listings or ads like that I feel tempted to sent the seller a message that reads simply:

"Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha...."

But then I feel bad.....and don't.

Just went into town to print up some of agodfreys cards at Walgreens from post # 747. Got in the van, started it up, then opened up the envelope to take a look at the cards to see how they turned out. What song should come on 80's on 8? Kenny Loggins "Danger Zone". Just was a cool flashback moment.

Btw the cards look pretty awesome. Looking forward to trimming them up and putting them in my F-14 when I get back home.

Sweet. Hope you like them. I think you might need to trim a little extra off than I left in black space. Also considering moving the rules a little to the right. But for less than a dollar (I think mine were 75¢) can't beat it!

Glad to hear they are going into homes and Kenny Loggins agrees!!

Probably the best 82 cents I ever spent on a pin. Mr. Loggins would most likely agree.

DSCF4620.JPG

Those are very cool. Did you laminate them?

Nope, just trimmed them to size and put them in. Works just fine as they are on good photo grade paper. I would have put the clear plastic over them, but mine are a little discolored, so it looks way better without it.

They can easily be CNC cut or even laser cut. Zitt did this very thing for his custom Star Trek Mirror Universe pin. In fact my buddy was going to cut me a batch. they would not be starburst, just solid color, 3/8 thick acrylic. But from all the plastics shops I checked, they would only order in the stock if I bought a 4x8 sheet. A 4x8 sheet of red and a 4x8 sheet of blue? What the heck would I do with 10,000 blue F-14 chevron plastics and another 10,000 red ones? Well, what would I do with 9,993 reds and 9,993 blues, I guess.

Sell 'em on Pinside, of course.

I'd buy some!

This may be a stupid question, but when changing the GI bulbs, do you do it from below the playfield like the insert bulbs?

I used Pinball Bulbs LED's in my F14 (used frosted in GI as well) - couldn't be happier

Thanks, I really like the look of your game from the pics earlier in the thread.
Did you go with the non-ghosting option?

Depends on the bulb location. Some are easiest to replace from the topside of the PF, but there are quite a few where it's just easier to unscrew the socket and remove the bulb from underneath.

Either way, it's far safer to do it with the game off.

I have changed a few easy to get to GI lamps, from the top, with the power on. However, if you have to go at it from the underside, especially if you have to remove the lamp socket, always power off first.

Makes sense. And how do you change the diverter bulbs? I looked around but didn't find any obvious way of doing it.

Just push down and twist and they should pop up and out.

I'm having a few issues with my game.

1. Sound issue as the game warms up the back ground music gets distorted. (Someone suggested the ym3012 chip so I'm ordering a new one).

2. Extra segments in the displays. (Not sure what's going on there but a new LED display might be going into it if I can't figure it out).

3. Left center target switch 25 fault on power up. ( found green and yellow wire was removed and attached to right green and yellow wire on right target. I moved it back and now habitrail switches don't register. )

So my question. ...is there a green and yellow jumper wire from right switch to left switch ??? I'm thinking it was removed for some reason. I got 0 volts at the left green and yellow wire. I checked the cpu with a jumper on 1j10 and 1j8 and my rows and columns are good. Anyone want to take a pick of the wires under the two center targets? I would greatly appreciate it.

This what I have now. As a pose to both green and yellow on right switch when I got them game.
20141208_165255.jpg

Mine has a wire between the two.

image-475.jpg

Ahh Thanks so much. That wire was missing altogether. So the green wires are on the right with one wire going to the left. I kept coming back to the same switch thinking its got to be missing a jumper. But I didn't want to hook one up till it was verified. Didn't want to blow the switch matrix. lol

Thanks again.

Well believe it or not...I actually found that little wire way in the back of the cabinet. Soldered it on and the first game I played, was the best game I ever had on it. I doubled my previous high score. I kept getting extra balls. Lol
If you can't read it, due to the extra segments its...7,904,090
20141208_203624.jpg

These can be a pain in the ass, but they just untwist like the others. The divertor bulbs are the hardest ones to change, at least on my pin.

No, the only place I have noticed it being a problem is on the lock lights and then it seems to be only during attract mode.

rottenrobert1313 - first thing I would do is resolder the pin connections on your sound board and your display board. Then measure the power supply inputs on the board and make sure you are getting proper voltage.

Is the right display (or the lower ones for that matter) also affected with extra digits?

I noticed on the score card "TOP SECRET: Multi-Ball special". Is there some super secret multiball mode I am missing out on?

Yes that is correct.

I really want to join the club.... Just need to find one!

So what's the deal with LEDs in the flashers? I read that you either have to remove warming resistors or leave the 6 flashers in the backbox with incandescents.

I left the 6 backbox flashers intact and swapped the rest out with Comet 5 SMD flashers. Some of the flashers stay on all the time (2 behind the translite, 2 on the playfield, and a couple under the playfield), while the rest work properly. Why do some stay on and others don't?

Thanks, I'll give it try. Just the uppers have the extra segments. But I'll resolder the pins and make sure there is isn't any solder bridges from pin to pin. Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-warming-resistors

Can I join up? Here is a shot of my F-14 PF that I had restored by Captain Neo last year. He did a fantastic job, I could not have been more pleased! He touched up all the visible artwork, located and installed the red arrow inserts, applied new insert decals all around and clear coated the hell out of it. With a set of CPR plastics and a set of plastic protectors, this is how she came out:F-14-610.jpg
Sorry for the glare of the overhead lamp!
I've since installed the PF into the cabinet and she's up and running 100% with a NOS translite in the backbox and Rottendog displays.
I did install a complete set of Cointaker LEDs and flashers, you damn near sunglasses to play it!

Looks like those flippers could use some fine tuning...

Yep. Plus some whitening. I can't stand yellow flippers on F-14.

In that photo they are just resting in place, untightened.

Personal preference, I like the yellow.

What was the original colour? I thought white, but I may be wrong.

You are correct, white was the original color.

Hey Gents. What would the price be on a routed F14 with LED upgrades. Game played decent and everything was working. Playfield was in decent shape as well.

Saw this one for sale and was curious if the price was high (I thought so)

In your location? Probably $1200. Price up here in the Great White North is closer to $1500.

that was my thought as well. Guy had a tag of $2500 on it. Knew he was nuts.

Pretty cheap. Good luck finding one in the locally in the Toronto area for that price unless its a little beat up.

Im wondering if anyone else has had this happen. When i first turn on my F14 and plunge the first ball , all the sound effects are there but no music. Once i lose that ball and start my second ball , music is there and all is good for the rest of the game and all other games . Doesnt happen every time but quite often and only when i first turn the machine on. Not a big deal but curious if anyone has experienced this or knows what would be causing this ?

Yup, mine does that sometimes. You are not alone.