(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

9 years ago


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19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 5,323 posts in this topic. You are on page 106 of 107.
#5251 3 months ago
Quoted from Jagrmaister:

Is there a video or tutorial on how to get them not to do that or can I simply bend a bit to adjust? Is this little pad supposed to be here on the door even? Seems to bind right into the contact. The game doesn't throw Tilts itself, but the switch test shows this as an active.

That's the slam switch. You don't want it touching. It's supposed to be normally open.

Just bend it. The pad is supposed to be there to isolate the switch from the door.

#5252 3 months ago

If you are serious about maintaining your pinballs, you should get the leaf adjuster tool to bend the switch blades correctly at the base. https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

You probably don't care about the slam tilt switch though, so I would not wait and just fix it by hand.

#5253 3 months ago
Quoted from clempo:

If you are serious about maintaining your pinballs, you should get the leaf adjuster tool to bend the switch blades correctly at the base. https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
You probably don't care about the slam tilt switch though, so I would not wait and just fix it by hand.

Thanks for the tip and will have to consider moving forward. I assume whenever the spinner came off the spinner switch was slightly adjusted out of whack and that wire that contacts the switch was never replaced with the flipper which is also suspiciously missing (all parts ordered so will be here soon). The spinner switch was able to be manipulated as well to stop making contact and turn off in Switch Testing mode. Both are now "off" after a minor hand adjustment. Will have to see when I get the spinner if it will trigger the sensor and may still need a tweak now for operation. Cool, though! The more you learn owning your own pin and appreciate all the effort to help here, guys.

With those two switch tests now "off" in switch test menu, placing a ball in either center eject still shows up in test so the ball is holding down those switches in the lock gates. Just don't know why when one ball is captured it allows a second to also be captured. Something isn't triggering in play on the system. I noticed playing at the expo on an F-14 that if a ball captured during the "lock" phases, it would fire the opposing ball at times after launching x, y, z. Mine seems to leave it sit in the gates. Can't say for sure the scenario but I did notice in actual play between the two machines a difference in when those balls are fired off. I was trying to dissect what was happening on mine. Still scratching my head.

Found another issue. Top RT "C" 06-54 is also not in operation. All other letters are good. Gremlins.

#5254 3 months ago
Quoted from Jagrmaister:

Just don't know why when one ball is captured it allows a second to also be captured. Something isn't triggering in play on the system. I noticed playing at the expo on an F-14 that if a ball captured during the "lock" phases, it would fire the opposing ball at times after launching x, y, z. Mine seems to leave it sit in the gates. Can't say for sure the scenario but I did notice in actual play between the two machines a difference in when those balls are fired off. I was trying to dissect what was happening on mine. Still scratching my head.

The game knows to fire them based on the wireform switch leading to them. You have to test those wireform switches with a ball, not your finger. It's relatively common for them to rotate out of the way a bit over time, just adjust them back by loosening the 2-56 screws a little bit and rotating the switch body back towards the wireform.

There is NEVER a scenario in the software that expects 2 balls to be in the same holding location. It's nice that a ball search will recover this, but it's not intended to work this way.

#5255 3 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

The game knows to fire them based on the wireform switch leading to them. You have to test those wireform switches with a ball, not your finger. It's relatively common for them to rotate out of the way a bit over time, just adjust them back by loosening the 2-56 screws a little bit and rotating the switch body back towards the wireform.
There is NEVER a scenario in the software that expects 2 balls to be in the same holding location. It's nice that a ball search will recover this, but it's not intended to work this way.

Sending a ball down the halitrail during Switch test registers the switch as active. In play, if the ball loads up the lower halitrail first (far right lock), the middle halitrail receives the next ball (left center lock), the third final ball will go down the upper short track to the center right lock. Then fire off this ball. But if the ball lands during play in the left center lock with the other locked ball that is presently in there from launch lock, that is where the game is halted until search.

#5256 3 months ago

i had your exact same problem and i know it's anecdotal but once the left pocket kicker coil snapped the bracket holding it trying to kick out two balls again and again and again the problem turned out to the be the rollthrough sensor on the wireform leading to that left pocket. the switch is https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-01

if i remember right from my time with the game, F-14 Tomcat does some heavy compensating when it thinks the game is broken in some way, or it's not getting input from a certain switch. i never could ever figure out why sometimes the second lock would go in the right pocket and sometimes the left *shrug*

#5257 3 months ago

It decides which side based on the tomcat targets it puts the ball on the side of the targets you need more of.
This way when it fires out you can shoot at them with the opposite flipper.

#5258 3 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

It decides which side based on the tomcat targets it puts the ball on the side of the targets you need more of.
This way when it fires out you can shoot at them with the opposite flipper.

that's badass, thanks for sharing

the best i could come up with was that Williams was maybe trying to distribute the load more evenly between those two coils but the underside of that game doesn't really speak to much foresight about operator friendliness lol

#5259 88 days ago

Occasionally my background music will dissappear. Then re-appear at the start of a new game. I know this game has sound trouble if you start a game before the famous "bong" startup sound. This is not my issue. Its happening after the game has been on for a while. The bigdaddy capacitor kit for a sys11 sound board is only 17$... Should I shotgun and throw new capacitors in?

Or does anyone else have any ideas?

#5260 88 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Occasionally my background music will dissappear. Then re-appear at the start of a new game. I know this game has sound trouble if you start a game before the famous "bong" startup sound. This is not my issue. Its happening after the game has been on for a while. The bigdaddy capacitor kit for a sys11 sound board is only 17$... Should I shotgun and throw new capacitors in?
Or does anyone else have any ideas?

Starting at the sound board is a good idea. Most likely they need replacement anyway. No change, then do the caps on the CPU board.

#5261 88 days ago
Quoted from SonOfaDiddly:

i had your exact same problem and i know it's anecdotal but once the left pocket kicker coil snapped the bracket holding it trying to kick out two balls again and again and again the problem turned out to the be the rollthrough sensor on the wireform leading to that left pocket. the switch is https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-01
if i remember right from my time with the game, F-14 Tomcat does some heavy compensating when it thinks the game is broken in some way, or it's not getting input from a certain switch. i never could ever figure out why sometimes the second lock would go in the right pocket and sometimes the left *shrug*

Was your rollthrough switch on the habitrail working in Switch test for that middle ramp into the left pocket? I only ask because my switch is working.

Fixed my spinner! Bought a new one, decals, and the wire to the switch. Quick adjustment on the switch and it works great! I was overzealous and think I put my decals on upside down. My plane is flying "upwards". Saw an old thread where the poster had them like that but apparently a couple other members posted and flight was descending. Oh well. Planes fly UP!

JUST need my "C" target fixed up and registering up top and then the ball issue.

Added 88 days ago:

Edit: Fixed "C". 99%of the way there! Just gotta figure out these middle locks capturing the second ball. Those switches are all testing fine with a ball. <Shrug>

#5262 83 days ago

AHA! I was correct. It isn't the sensors. It is the ball lock gates themselves! Anyone know specifically which two parts those center locks are or at least have closeup shots of the lock gates? They are allowing balls to enter, when it is my assumption that in a non-FUBAR game it should only allow ball exit once the ball has been put into the lock from the wireform itself! Being completely greenhorn about pins, I didn't understand that until I realized the left lane to rescue only allows the gate to exit once rescued...not actually permit the ball to enter when it is in the middle of the playfield.

Soldered my "C" wire into place. These gates are the last thing to get my game 100%! Any help on the pics or direction to parts for those center lock gates appreciated! I see this one but not sure what form they are supposed to actually take for those two center locks.

EDIT: Found the center chute ball gates on actionpinball I think. A pic would still be useful if someone can upload. Thanks!

Left: https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=12-6736
Right: https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=12-6707
Ones I had no longer have a "stop" formation at all so just allow open lane entry/exit from the playfield. This was the issue all along. Balls aren't even supposed to enter there!

#5263 83 days ago

glad you figured it out

#5264 77 days ago

Any help on this anti-rebound wire situation? Got no aid from Tech forum. Basically, the left rebound wire is pushing through underside of the playfield causing damage. On top, the retention hole will just wear wider and wider in time is my guess as balls smack it. I'm just looking to deter additional damage at this point. Do these wires just pull out of the playfield? Seems like it's in there pretty good. Doesn't appear like it's supposed to go fully through the playfield. Considered pulling out, then using wood glue/putty to strengthen that area of the playfield so no additional damage would be created. Now that all the features of the pin itself are repaired, need to squash this bit so I don't end up with a new drain hole. Love playing it with everything intact and operating as it should! Thanks.
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#5265 77 days ago
Quoted from Jagrmaister:

Do these wires just pull out of the playfield? Seems like it's in there pretty good.

Yes, just like any other wireform. You do have to work it out (putty knife with something to protect the PF where the edge of the blade sites works well).

When I get around to my F-14 swap I'm not even going to put these back in. They serve little purpose in home use (their original intention as 'biff bars' was to help prevent people from doing bang backs).

#5266 77 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes, just like any other wireform. You do have to work it out (putty knife with something to protect the PF where the edge of the blade sites works well).
When I get around to my F-14 swap I'm not even going to put these back in. They serve little purpose in home use (their original intention as 'biff bars' was to help prevent people from doing bang backs).

Roger that. Thanks for the reply. Removed and good to go!

#5267 77 days ago

Has anyone put spot lights in the left upper playfield area? I've got a dual light spot light on order to try to brighten it up a bit back there.

#5268 77 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

When I get around to my F-14 swap I'm not even going to put these back in.

Yep, mine was clearcoated and I chose not to put them back in afterwards.

I also removed all of the clear ball protectors because I think the game looks cleaner without them and I rarely ever have issues with stuck balls.

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#5269 73 days ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

Has anyone put spot lights in the left upper playfield area? I've got a dual light spot light on order to try to brighten it up a bit back there.

I ended up putting a spotlight on each side to illuminate the upper flipper area. Turned out pretty good.

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1 week later
#5270 64 days ago

I have an extra spinner if anyone needs.Used but good shape. DM me.

2 weeks later
#5271 50 days ago

Hey all! Does anybody have or know where I can get a set of these decals?

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#5272 50 days ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

Hey all! Does anybody have or know where I can get a set of these decals?
[quoted image]

ebay.com link: itm

#5273 50 days ago

Doh! Last time I looked a awhile back I couldn't find them anywhere. They were literally the first result now. If you need me ill be over here lol!

10
#5274 48 days ago

Picked up my F-14 a few weeks ago! So much fun and nostalgia! All the call outs are flash backs to my time in High School playing this game!
Plays well but most all insert decals are missing and the clear coat is yellowed and chipping off in places like the center cross hairs. Cabinet is in great shape.
Just purchased a Hardtop and plan to tear down and install it over Christmas.
While I was not Naval Aviation, I was in Army Aviation, and it fits very well along my veteran wall!

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#5275 48 days ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I ended up putting a spotlight on each side to illuminate the upper flipper area. Turned out pretty good.
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[quoted image]

Where did you get the spot lights?

#5276 47 days ago
Quoted from 2006Jackpot:

Picked up my F-14 a few weeks ago! So much fun and nostalgia! All the call outs are flash backs to my time in High School playing this game!
Plays well but most all insert decals are missing and the clear coat is yellowed and chipping off in places like the center cross hairs. Cabinet is in great shape.
Just purchased a Hardtop and plan to tear down and install it over Christmas.
While I was not Naval Aviation, I was in Army Aviation, and it fits very well along my veteran wall!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great sir. Thanks for your service to our country. I retired 3 years ago and still haven't gotten my USAF wall together like that. Yours looks great next to the F-14!

1 week later
#5277 40 days ago

Charles_Kline Did you ever find a solution for your speaker grills? I have a similar problem, though mine looks like someone laid a soldering iron on it and it melted a bit. I was thinking of making me own somehow but never got around to it.

#5278 40 days ago

Just put in a new xpin display and it's working great. In my original display, player #3 went out and didn't have the time to really troubleshoot the issue. That being said are old semi-working displays sellable, tradeable, usable? I'd hate to just get rid of it if it still has some life or use to it ... maybe that's just the hoarder in me coming out

#5279 40 days ago
Quoted from bonez0607:

That being said are old semi-working displays sellable, tradeable, usable?

Yes, the chips are useful as are the working displays for people that are fixing original display sets.

#5280 39 days ago

It's a very tedious task to replace a single display. But I did it on mine. It can be done with some patience.

#5281 37 days ago

I may be leaving the Tomcat club and am seeking advice on a fair price for my game. Tomcat is never out of my rotation for long, I’ve owned 4 so far so I’ll be back eventually. Here’s the details of my game, has a new installed buthemburg playfield, uninstalled still in the package nos plastic set and plastic protectors. The body has been sanded and redecaled, the head hasn’t been prepped and decaled yet but I have the head decals. Strong flippers and functions, beacons and alpha numeric displays are good. Only real issue is it shows a few switch errors. 28 pop bumper 57 R sling and 58 right sling. I reset all connectors and the problem isn’t fixed. Also no battery acid. Any feedback on a fair price is appreciated. Thanks

#5282 37 days ago
Quoted from athenspin:

I may be leaving the Tomcat club and am seeking advice on a fair price for my game. Tomcat is never out of my rotation for long, I’ve owned 4 so far so I’ll be back eventually. Here’s the details of my game, has a new installed buthemburg playfield, uninstalled still in the package nos plastic set and plastic protectors. The body has been sanded and redecaled, the head hasn’t been prepped and decaled yet but I have the head decals. Strong flippers and functions, beacons and alpha numeric displays are good. Only real issue is it shows a few switch errors. 28 pop bumper 57 R sling and 58 right sling. I reset all connectors and the problem isn’t fixed. Also no battery acid. Any feedback on a fair price is appreciated. Thanks

Check the fuse under the playfield near the back. That one is for the 2 slings and pop bumper.

I just recently sold my F14 for $3800 look back in the thread for photos of mine. Clearcoated playfield and powdercoated trim. My only set back was the cabinet was touched up. I took that route versus decals or re-stenciling.

Good luck with your sale. This was my 4th Tomcat as well.

#5283 33 days ago

Installed anyPIN DMD+NVRAM F14 TOMCAT and when I power up nothing going on...help!

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#5284 32 days ago
Quoted from Runnersamboy:

Installed anyPIN DMD+NVRAM F14 TOMCAT and when I power up nothing going on...help![quoted image]

Why are their pins hanging out?

#5285 32 days ago
Quoted from Runnersamboy:

Installed anyPIN DMD+NVRAM F14 TOMCAT and when I power up nothing going on...help![quoted image]

You used the wrong chip, this chip can be used on later versions of system 11 CPUs.

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#5286 32 days ago

Some things that may help you.

Consult the following image:

anyPin_DMD+.jpg

  • RED arrow: anyPin DMD+ configured as 6264. This is because all DMD games use a 6264 (64kb).
  • GOLD arrow: If you move the jumper from the 6264 to the 6116 setting, it MAY convert from 6264 pin configuration to 6116 pin configuration. The should change the ~WE signal from pin 27 to pin 23.
  • YELLOW arrow: As a 28 pin IC (6264), this is pin 3. As a 24 pin IC (6116), this is pin 1. If you perform the above modification, and the signal for ~WE is correct, then you can install the NVRAM with the indicated pin as pin 1. There should be four pins (two rows of two pins) over the edge on the other side to what you current see in your image.

Or ... you could return the NVRAM to where you purchased it from and ask for the 6116 compatible module.

#5287 27 days ago

Need a little help. During a party the bottom 4 bulbs went out for Mach 1&2, and Landing 1 & 2. I swapped bulbs with the top 2 to confirm that the 4 bulbs didn't burn out. The locks still work. No errors. Any ideas what the issue is? GRUMPY?

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#5288 27 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Any ideas what the issue is? GRUMPY?

These 4 lamps are on the same column, yellow/grey wire. I would look at the yellow/grey jumper wire on the 2nd and 3rd lamp sockets for a break.

#5289 27 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

These 4 lamps are on the same column, yellow/grey wire. I would look at the yellow/grey jumper wire on the 2nd and 3rd lamp sockets for a break.

Thanks! I will go on the hunt for the issue this weekend.

#5290 24 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

These 4 lamps are on the same column, yellow/grey wire. I would look at the yellow/grey jumper wire on the 2nd and 3rd lamp sockets for a break.

Nothing obvious yet. I will check continuity.

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#5291 24 days ago

If I jumper the yellow wire, then they all work in lamp test. Nothing is broken in 2, but looks like it needs to be replaced or maybe re-soldered. Thanks for helping to troubleshoot.

#5292 24 days ago

The yellow jumper between lamp #2 and #3 needs to be replaced. It is broken internally.

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#5293 24 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The yellow jumper between lamp #2 and #3 needs to be replaced. It is broken internally.
[quoted image]

Yes, that is what the problem is, thanks!

#5294 23 days ago

I have a question that is probably obvious to you all but I can't figure it out.

How do I identify which snubber drives which solenoid? I'm having trouble with both the A and C side of Solenoid 6 and I don't hear clicking or anything between them. It seems to be the only one where everything is dead. I've already removed, tested and rebuilt all of the resistance boards so I think it's either a Snubber or one of the transistors on the CPU.

The other problem I'm having is the slings and pop are real weak. Not snappy at all like they are in other games I've owned.

Thanks in advance for any advice/training you can give.

#5295 23 days ago
Quoted from TheClownpuncher:

I have a question that is probably obvious to you all but I can't figure it out.
How do I identify which snubber drives which solenoid? I'm having trouble with both the A and C side of Solenoid 6 and I don't hear clicking or anything between them. It seems to be the only one where everything is dead. I've already removed, tested and rebuilt all of the resistance boards so I think it's either a Snubber or one of the transistors on the CPU.
The other problem I'm having is the slings and pop are real weak. Not snappy at all like they are in other games I've owned.
Thanks in advance for any advice/training you can give.

Since both A and C side for solenoid #6 are not working, I would briefly ground the correct transistor metal tab to see if the snubber relay and coil work. If the snubber clicks or the coil fires then the wiring to the play field is good and you need to look at the cpu board. If you do not know how to ground a transistor or don't know how to find the correct transistor just let me know.

#5296 23 days ago
Quoted from TheClownpuncher:

The other problem I'm having is the slings and pop are real weak. Not snappy at all like they are in other games I've owned.
Thanks in advance for any advice/training you can give.

The weak pop is a common problem on F14. It will never be fast action since the pop is alone, it pops towards higher ground and the targets are a fair distance from it. You will likely want to replace the coil sleeve, the spoon and the pop bumper body. Also check the bounciness of the rubber between the blue and the red targets. Counter-intuitively, on mine I also had to increase the strength of the plunger spring.

#5297 23 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Since both A and C side for solenoid #6 are not working, I would briefly ground the correct transistor metal tab to see if the snubber relay and coil work. If the snubber clicks or the coil fires then the wiring to the play field is good and you need to look at the cpu board. If you do not know how to ground a transistor or don't know how to find the correct transistor just let me know.

I'm not sure how to ground/test the transistor. From reading the wiring diagram Q19 (2N4401) and Q23 (TIP 122) are the two that are in line for solenoid 6.

I haven't looked at the board yet, hopefully they are marked on there because the manual map/diagram is quite blurred when looking at transistors.

#5298 23 days ago
Quoted from TheClownpuncher:

I haven't looked at the board yet, hopefully they are marked on there because the manual map/diagram is quite blurred when looking at transistors.

Here is a better pic and I highlighted the predriver transistor Q-19 and the driver transistor Q-23. The driver transistor is the larger of the two and has a metal back for heat dissipation. The metal is also tied to the collector lead internally. When working correctly the collector lead will go to ground potential when the cpu activates this circuit. You can fake this activation by using a jumper wire with clips, you connect one clip to ground (the ground braid in the back box or the metal back plane that the circuit boards are screwed to) and briefly touch to other clip to the metal tab on top of the driver transistor. When you do this you should hear the knocker pop each time you make contact with the jumper. If this works then you have a cpu board issue, if not then you have a wiring issue. Let me know what you find.

cpu (resized).PNGpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#5299 20 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Here is a better pic and I highlighted the predriver transistor Q-19 and the driver transistor Q-23. The driver transistor is the larger of the two and has a metal back for heat dissipation. The metal is also tied to the collector lead internally. When working correctly the collector lead will go to ground potential when the cpu activates this circuit. You can fake this activation by using a jumper wire with clips, you connect one clip to ground (the ground braid in the back box or the metal back plane that the circuit boards are screwed to) and briefly touch to other clip to the metal tab on top of the driver transistor. When you do this you should hear the knocker pop each time you make contact with the jumper. If this works then you have a cpu board issue, if not then you have a wiring issue. Let me know what you find.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry it took me a couple of days to get to this. I grounded it and got nothing. Just to be sure I was doing it correctly, I did a couple of others and it worked on them. I tried it with the game on and in attract mode (which the knocker should have fired) and after starting a game (which a flasher should have lit) Didn't get anything.

So, I'm thinking, as you said, it's down in the playfield. I'd like to check the relay snubber board as I read there are problems with those but I just can't figure out which one is for #6.

#5300 20 days ago

Got the Hardtop installed over Christmas holiday. Was a great experience tearing down and learning the game inside and out.

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