(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Charles_Kline
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There are 5,183 posts in this topic. You are on page 103 of 104.
#5101 74 days ago

Im new to the club myself. I bought a players condition however I will still break it down for a complete shop Job. Pics coming soon.
Harley D.

#5102 73 days ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Anyone have Pictures of a Hardtopped F-14? What’s your over all feeling of it?

Did mine and it looks and plays awesome!!!!
Honestly F-14 was "brutal" before" and is still brutal now, with the difference that the playfield is much smoother. I waxed my hardtop same as it was an original playfield

285214051_10159009248348022_2121582602970122883_n (resized).jpg285336026_10159009248328022_7762864054580218109_n (resized).jpg285381919_10159009248418022_6561023132264035196_n (resized).jpg
#5103 72 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

My F-14 has an original PF with the mylar removed and it's great. I also have a hard-topped High Speed and I really dislike how it plays. I am actually trying to sell the High Speed currently because I'd like to get ahold of a machine with an original PF in decent shape. The Hardtop plays like a game with a playfield protector on it...maybe worse IMO. The friction is much different from a waxed PF and the ball motion is quite different. They aren't as bad as PF protectors in that you can't get dirt under them (obviously) but I would only use a Hardtop if you have no other choice. Yes, they are easier to install than doing a full PF swap...but honestly I'd just never buy another Hardtop. It's much better to spend the extra $$ and get a repro PF and do the swap with all of the work that entails. I also get the feeling that resale value could be affected as well, especially to hard-core collectors in-the-know.
I was originally hyped up about Hardtops and was one of the first purchasers of the High Speed model...but I've sworn them off after 3 years of experience with them.

Thanks for your feedback. My brother also has High Speed Hardtopped. Some High Speeds feel a Little floaty. This increases the speed.

Quoted from A1k71:

Did mine and it looks and plays awesome!!!!
Honestly F-14 was "brutal" before" and is still brutal now, with the difference that the playfield is much smoother. I waxed my hardtop same as it was an original playfield
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks Brother.

#5104 69 days ago

Could use some assistance on a possible purchase of a Tomcat tomorrow morning. Guy is asking $1000 and says it lights up but has a "missing ball error".

It looks fairly clean in the somewhat blurry pics i have seen. This would be my first Williams so any advice you could give would be super helpful. Seeing as these are going for the mid $2000's I think, $1000 may be steep for a non working machine. I know to check the main board around the battery area for leakage and board damage. Anything else specifically that would end up being very expensive for me later if I don't catch it before buying?

Is there a price I should be aiming for? Not a ton for sale on the site so hard to gauge. Thanks!

#5105 68 days ago
Quoted from Krmnnghia:

Could use some assistance on a possible purchase of a Tomcat tomorrow morning. Guy is asking $1000 and says it lights up but has a "missing ball error".
It looks fairly clean in the somewhat blurry pics i have seen. This would be my first Williams so any advice you could give would be super helpful. Seeing as these are going for the mid $2000's I think, $1000 may be steep for a non working machine. I know to check the main board around the battery area for leakage and board damage. Anything else specifically that would end up being very expensive for me later if I don't catch it before buying?
Is there a price I should be aiming for? Not a ton for sale on the site so hard to gauge. Thanks!

BUY IT!

#5106 68 days ago
Quoted from Krmnnghia:

Could use some assistance on a possible purchase of a Tomcat tomorrow morning. Guy is asking $1000 and says it lights up but has a "missing ball error".
It looks fairly clean in the somewhat blurry pics i have seen. This would be my first Williams so any advice you could give would be super helpful. Seeing as these are going for the mid $2000's I think, $1000 may be steep for a non working machine. I know to check the main board around the battery area for leakage and board damage. Anything else specifically that would end up being very expensive for me later if I don't catch it before buying?
Is there a price I should be aiming for? Not a ton for sale on the site so hard to gauge. Thanks!

That offer is a steal

#5107 68 days ago
Quoted from Krmnnghia:

Could use some assistance on a possible purchase of a Tomcat tomorrow morning. Guy is asking $1000 and says it lights up but has a "missing ball error".
It looks fairly clean in the somewhat blurry pics i have seen. This would be my first Williams so any advice you could give would be super helpful. Seeing as these are going for the mid $2000's I think, $1000 may be steep for a non working machine. I know to check the main board around the battery area for leakage and board damage. Anything else specifically that would end up being very expensive for me later if I don't catch it before buying?
Is there a price I should be aiming for? Not a ton for sale on the site so hard to gauge. Thanks!

For $1k you can't lose! F14 playfields are almost ALWAYS in bad shape. Check for lifting inserts, insert text missing, short-circuits between the flash lamps and the switch matrix at the upper TOMCAT targets. Look for cabinet paint flaking which is common. But as long as it isn't missing parts I'd say you can't lose! If it was bad enough you could do a full playfield swap and still be on the plus side.

Mine was a €450 ($500) turd...so I stripped the mylar, leveled all inserts, new text, paint touchups, clearcoat, etc and saved the work and money of a swap....Looks and plays great now.

#5108 68 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

For $1k you can't lose! F14 playfields are almost ALWAYS in bad shape. Check for lifting inserts, insert text missing, short-circuits between the flash lamps and the switch matrix at the upper TOMCAT targets. Look for cabinet paint flaking which is common. But as long as it isn't missing parts I'd say you can't lose! If it was bad enough you could do a full playfield swap and still be on the plus side.
Mine was a €450 ($500) turd...so I stripped the mylar, leveled all inserts, new text, paint touchups, clearcoat, etc and saved the work and money of a swap....Looks and plays great now.

Awesome thanks for the details!

#5109 68 days ago

Picked up a new playfield and installed last week. Still have some finishing touches.

Was a player and I will be doing cab as well.
6EED8F4E-9595-4201-B34E-276F99AB42C4 (resized).jpegAE8ECA5C-AC0D-447D-AD41-66E69B525DBD (resized).jpeg

Plastics and ramps still needs attachment. Should be done this weekend, then the cab.

#5110 68 days ago

Well here she is. I paid $800 and it’s missing the main board . So that will be not fun to source. Nice use of a 6mm socket LOL

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#5111 68 days ago
Quoted from Krmnnghia:

Well here she is. I paid $800 and it’s missing the main board . So that will be not fun to source.

I'm curious how the seller got it to boot up and say missing ball without the MPU board in it!

Pretty good deal otherwise. Get a replacement board from DumbAss and you'll be good to go.

F14 is a great game IMO, pretty much everyone else that's not a hardcore pinhead hates it when I have parties (I have the upper flippers set to funnel the ball to the outhole if you don't flip.)

#5112 68 days ago

What an insane deal. Even with getting a new MPU board, amazing.

#5113 68 days ago
Quoted from baltistyle:

Picked up a new playfield and installed last week. Still have some finishing touches.
Was a player and I will be doing cab as well.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Plastics and ramps still needs attachment. Should be done this weekend, then the cab.

Gorgeous work - where'd you get the PF? Peter in Germany?

#5114 68 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

I'm curious how the seller got it to boot up and say missing ball without the MPU board in it!
Pretty good deal otherwise. Get a replacement board from DumbAss and you'll be good to go.
F14 is a great game IMO, pretty much everyone else that's not a hardcore pinhead hates it when I have parties (I have the upper flippers set to funnel the ball to the outhole if you don't flip.)

When I got there it was clear he knew nothing about pins. He said “there’s no balls not sure why”. Well they were stacked ready to play but obviously nothings going to happen with no board. He had no idea it was missing a board. Had to drill out the back glass lock on site as he has no keys. I wonder what DumbAss charges for the board?

#5115 68 days ago
Quoted from Krmnnghia:

When I got there it was clear he knew nothing about pins. He said “there’s no balls not sure why”. Well they were stacked ready to play but obviously nothings going to happen with no board. He had no idea it was missing a board. Had to drill out the back glass lock on site as he has no keys. I wonder what DumbAss charges for the board?

Send him a pm. He has blank diy boards or assembled boards. Not sure about his que or wait.

#5116 65 days ago

First and second lower quadrant playfield done. Cleaned, new rubber, Leds/Flashers Mylar completely polished to factory new shine. Definitely a players but the turd has been polished! Translite cleaned new plastic lift channels installed and Leds to make it pop. Still waiting on some plastics. Upper first and Second quadrant next. Lastly under playfield Clean up and Solder Jobs. Cabinet and legs touch ups/ wax.

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#5117 65 days ago
Quoted from NPO:

Gorgeous work - where'd you get the PF? Peter in Germany?

I happened to find a person selling the bathumberg field locally two weeks ago. I am also on the list for the newest printing as well but don’t know when that will actually come so I installed this.

Was a player and working all the way through it. Really happy to have it together and just waiting on some board stuff.

Didn’t think it would be too hard but boy were there a lot of lights.

#5118 64 days ago
Quoted from Krmnnghia:

Well here she is. I paid $800 and it’s missing the main board . So that will be not fun to source. Nice use of a 6mm socket LOL
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

https://www.pinballlife.com/rottendog-williams-system-9-11-11c-mpu-board.html

#5119 62 days ago

I ended up ordering a completely new/populated kit with some upgrades from DumbAss . Since I have no roms, and no CPU's from the original unit, he was able to put together a solution that includes everything. He's a month and a half or so out on the build but I just can't trust the rottendog boards. Too many people having issues with them.

2 weeks later
#5120 48 days ago

Anyone have any tips or tricks on cleaning up beacons? My clear beacon is very yellowed.

Can't wait to install 13SMDs in them!

#5121 48 days ago
Quoted from Homeslice666:

Anyone have any tips or tricks on cleaning up beacons? My clear beacon is very yellowed.
Can't wait to install 13SMDs in them!

Hydrogen peroxide, and an entire day in the sun or under UV lights. This removed the yellowing from my old Taxi topper I would assume it will do the same for the yellowed beacons.

Here's what I used.

16566997083434739123066080518785 (resized).jpg
#5122 47 days ago
Quoted from Homeslice666:

Anyone have any tips or tricks on cleaning up beacons? My clear beacon is very yellowed.
Can't wait to install 13SMDs in them!

Check to make sure your led bulbs are the correct voltage. I believe the beacons are 28V if I remember correctly.

#5123 46 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Hydrogen peroxide, and an entire day in the sun or under UV lights. This removed the yellowing from my old Taxi topper I would assume it will do the same for the yellowed beacons.
Here's what I used.
[quoted image]

Interesting. The beacon may be a PITA to submerge. I'd have to get creative.

Quoted from ita47:

Check to make sure your led bulbs are the correct voltage. I believe the beacons are 28V if I remember correctly.

Correct. They need to be dropped to 12V. Grumpy came up with a method awhile back and others have had success with it.

#5124 46 days ago
Quoted from Homeslice666:

The beacon may be a PITA to submerge.

Can't you just put it in like a pail (open side up) let it fill with liquid, then turn it over?

#5125 45 days ago

Hey all! I have a brand new playfield I don’t need. Send me a message if you are interested in buying it. Asking $750 shipped But I am open to offers!

B7705E99-71CC-4091-8669-1A6D6BBB24F2 (resized).jpeg
#5126 44 days ago

Just joined the F-14 owners club!

Right now I'm going through my machine and have identified various little issues:

-Flippers are kind of sloppy and wobble a lot on the upper playfield when they get hit by the ball. Likely need to be adjusted, or rebuilt.
-Pop bumper is kind of weak with the triggering, not sure if that's just dirty contacts or the pop bumper needs to be rebuilt.
-The diverters for the ball is kind of wonky/stiff, and sometimes doesn't properly divert. For example, one diverter will pop out, but then be very slow to return when the ball comes up to divert. Is it just dirty?
-Slingshots are okay, but not super strong.
-One of the ball gates (the right side one) on the upper playfield is not preventing the ball from going in.
-The middle beacon appears bent, and I haven't seen them spin or work yet, both lights and the motor.

#5127 43 days ago

The weak pop bumper is common. I rebuilt mine and it was still too weak for my taste. I ended up installing two springs instead of one and that finally did it for me.

#5128 43 days ago
Quoted from Homeslice666:

Interesting. The beacon may be a PITA to submerge. I'd have to get creative.

The stuff I shared is a cream. You dont need to submerge it. Just paint it on the inside and outside, then set it on a piece of aluminum foil in the hot sun (the shiny foil reflects the rays back at your piece). Then leave it in the UV light for the whole day. Its available at most beauty stores.

#5129 43 days ago

This video explains the process in more detail.

#5130 43 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

This video explains the process in more detail.

He actually says in a later video that submerging in the liquid stuff is better than the cream to not create splotching.

#5131 43 days ago

This whitening process is called retrobright
https://retr0bright.com/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retr0bright

#5132 39 days ago

I have a question on the pop bumpers. I just completed the refurb of my machine with a hardtop, new coils, WMS external flip springs, etc. It plays fantastically fast except for the pop bumper. I have adjusted everything and its free moving. Been digging through pinside and have been coming up empty handed. Anyone know of a way to make the pop more lively and less lazy? Different coil, etc?

#5133 39 days ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

I have a question on the pop bumpers. I just completed the refurb of my machine with a hardtop, new coils, WMS external flip springs, etc. It plays fantastically fast except for the pop bumper. I have adjusted everything and its free moving. Been digging through pinside and have been coming up empty handed. Anyone know of a way to make the pop more lively and less lazy? Different coil, etc?

The pop will always be slower than you are used to because it bounces against far away targets. Like I said 3 days ago, I rebuilt mine and I had to increase the strength of the spring. It might be counter-intuitive since the spring works against the coil, but that did it for me. You should also change the rubber at the top to make it bouncier.

#5134 39 days ago

Quick vid of the finished game with new inserts and a hardtop

https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cf1eHzrLZv0/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

#5135 39 days ago
Quoted from clempo:

The weak pop bumper is common. I rebuilt mine and it was still too weak for my taste. I ended up installing two springs instead of one and that finally did it for me.

Maybe this is simpler than I'm thinking, but how do you install two springs together for the pop bumper? Wouldn't they intertwine and get hung up on each other?

#5136 38 days ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

Maybe this is simpler than I'm thinking, but how do you install two springs together for the pop bumper? Wouldn't they intertwine and get hung up on each other?

Yes, exactly. I had two weak springs available and instead of sourcing a stronger one, I put them side by side and pushed them inside each other to obtain a spring with the same length but the equivalent of twice the number of windings. This works better if the pitch of the windings is similar.

I don't really know why it made the pop bumper stronger. One theory is it pushed the ring higher so it has a longer distance to travel and therefore a longer time to push the ball when going down.

#5137 37 days ago
Quoted from Homeslice666:

Anyone have any tips or tricks on cleaning up beacons? My clear beacon is very yellowed.
Can't wait to install 13SMDs in them!

When you put the leds in the topper can you post a picture of what they look like?

#5138 35 days ago

If anyone in Colorado is interested in it, I have a brand new F-14 Hardtop for sale. $300 picked up in Golden (or we could meet somewhere around the metro area)

IMG_4829 (resized).jpg

Thanks,
-Charles

Added 29 days ago:

Claimed.

#5139 31 days ago

after doing a lot of work i finished getting my f-14 together. but there are still issues. the topper isn't working, i put all Leds in besides the topper, could that have anything to do with it. also the spinner and bonus x switch are not working. other than those three things it works great.

#5140 31 days ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

If anyone in Colorado is interested in it, I have a brand new F-14 Hardtop for sale. $300 picked up in Golden (or we could meet somewhere around the metro area)
[quoted image]
Thanks,
-Charles

could you ship?

#5141 30 days ago
Quoted from pinballboy:

after doing a lot of work i finished getting my f-14 together. but there are still issues. the topper isn't working, i put all Leds in besides the topper, could that have anything to do with it. also the spinner and bonus x switch are not working. other than those three things it works great.

The bulbs for the beacons are 28V #1683 bulbs. Make sure you didnt put #89 flasher bulbs in them.

#5142 30 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

The bulbs for the beacons are 28V #1683 bulbs. Make sure you didnt put #89 flasher bulbs in them.

i made sure to put the right bulbs in, though for the led flashers i did the mods so they dont lock on could that be anything to do with it?

#5143 30 days ago
Quoted from pinballboy:

i made sure to put the right bulbs in, though for the led flashers i did the mods so they dont lock on could that be anything to do with it?

Yeah if you clipped the resistors they won't light.

#5144 30 days ago

Sent you a PM.

#5145 30 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Yeah if you clipped the resistors they won't light.

which ones?

#5146 30 days ago

The beacon lights are switched via a relay in the backbox (center of the backbox).
The motor is connected parallel to the lights.
If the lights don't work, the motor won't work.
No resistors used for the beacon lights.
They aren't flashers.
Make sure the fuse below the relay board is not broken. (4Amp SB).
It is common for the motor to break down.
The wires often break with no possibility to repair them.
You might need to replace it.
This motor is hard to find and expencive.
I used a 24VDC motor (90 RPM) from AliExpess for only a few bucs.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886966857.html
Put in a small rectifier to change the 28VAC to 28VDC for the motor only.
It works perfectly.

#5147 30 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I used a 24VDC motor (90 RPM) from AliExpess for only a few bucs.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886966857.html
Put in a small rectifier to change the 28VAC to 28VDC for the motor only.
It works perfectly.

Nice!! Forgive my lack of knowledge: the stock motor runs off of VAC?

#5148 30 days ago
Quoted from NPO:

Nice!! Forgive my lack of knowledge: the stock motor runs off of VAC?

Yep, and so does the lamps.

#5149 30 days ago

thanks everyone, i will try to fix next chance i get.

#5150 30 days ago

Ok so I tested to see if power was getting to it there is no power, it has a brand new tested fuse and the relay seems to be working, is there a transistor it’s connected to that’s bad?

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