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(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by vec-tor
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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 4680 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 94.
#451 6 years ago

very good idea! your work is very well made!

#452 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Thank you!
Guys, F-14 has a ton of stand up target switches. The target faces on some of mine are warped. The one side sticks out further than the other. Do any of you have a trick to get them flat again?

No suggestions?

Okay, how about this one... Anyone have a ball eject 'Cliffy' protector on their F-14?

#453 6 years ago

FiftyQuid - try blasting them with a blow dryer and then applying a clamp - it would have to be a small clamp or maybe a surgical clamp of some type.........

For the ball eject "cliffy" try a pice of mylar (I'm guessing the kicker lane?) - get the type of mylar used on expensive electric guitars - best quality.......

#454 6 years ago

Mylar... Nice one. I wouldn't have though of that.

Blow dryer huh? I didn't think enough heat would be produced but I'll give it a try. Thanks!

#455 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Mylar... Nice one. I wouldn't have though of that.
Blow dryer huh? I didn't think enough heat would be produced but I'll give it a try. Thanks!

Heat gun will get them hot enough, but be careful you don't get them so hot that they melt

#456 6 years ago

I have completed shopping the top, and some of the bottom, of the playfield. I could not believe the amount of dirt, wood, and solder flux crap all over it. It is sparkling now. It is soooooo rewarding putting everything back together (and not having any spare parts leftover) and seeing the GI light up. I replaced #44 bulbs in places I didn't know there were #44 bulbs! It looks awesome! Then I hit the start button and played a game. The playfield was freshly waxed. Holy shit the ball was moving! It was crazy! The ball was moving fast! I was making shots that I would not have dreamt possible before, getting crazy bounces, and extra distance on weak shots. Man it was exhilarating! I've had this pin for about 2 months now. My scores have been garbage. At first I wasn't even hitting the replay at the factory settings of 900,000. Tonight I still didn't make the leaderboard, but I had my best game! 3,048,000. So close! It would have been awesome putting up my initials on the new PinScore!

During one game I had that two ball multiball thing happen on me again. I mentioned it back a few posts. The second ball fired out of the ball lock on the right. I had not hit the release, it just fired prematurely. I think it fired as I spelled T-O-M-C-A-T the second time.

For reference, I reset the pin to factory settings back in May.

#457 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

During one game I had that two ball multiball thing happen on me again. I mentioned it back a few posts. The second ball fired out of the ball lock on the right. I had not hit the release, it just fired prematurely. I think it fired as I spelled T-O-M-C-A-T the second time.
For reference, I reset the pin to factory settings back in May.

Great you have the machine working again

For the mystery ball kickout, try putting the machine in switch test and thumping quite hard on the playfield a couple of times and see if you get any switch action. The right hand eject will kick a ball out if the switch at the entry of the lower habitrail gets activated - it does that to avoid the possibility of 2 balls getting into the lock which it might then have problems kicking out.

#458 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Mylar... Nice one. I wouldn't have though of that.

Oh, BURN!!!

#459 6 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Great you have the machine working again
For the mystery ball kickout, try putting the machine in switch test and thumping quite hard on the playfield a couple of times and see if you get any switch action. The right hand eject will kick a ball out if the switch at the entry of the lower habitrail gets activated - it does that to avoid the possibility of 2 balls getting into the lock which it might then have problems kicking out.

Sorry, but what is the "lower habitrail"?

I have my defective PinScore installed so I'm able to put the pin in switch test mode now. I tried this very quickly last night, but there seem to be a few different switch test modes. I'm still getting familiar with going through the menus. Is there a specific switch test I should be in?

#460 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Sorry, but what is the "lower habitrail"?
I have my defective PinScore installed so I'm able to put the pin in switch test mode now. I tried this very quickly last night, but there seem to be a few different switch test modes. I'm still getting familiar with going through the menus. Is there a specific switch test I should be in?

It's the long wire ramp that runs right across the playfield to the lock on the right hand side from the bottom of the plastic ramp on the left of the playfield. Some folks call them habitrails although thinking about it I'm not sure why they're called that. Just into that wire ramp is a switch that closes to tell the machine that a ball is on the way to the far right lock. If that's closing when it shouldn't a ball kickout could happen.

The switch test you want is the "switch edge" test. When in that mode, you can activate all the switches on the playfield by hand and you should see them appear on the display if they are working properly. So in switch edge, a thump in the centre of the playfield in theory should not activate any switch, but if one is loose or badly adjusted a thump usually triggers it.

(and thanks for the PM!)

#461 6 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

It's the long wire ramp that runs right across the playfield to the lock on the right hand side from the bottom of the plastic ramp on the left of the playfield. Some folks call them habitrails although thinking about it I'm not sure why they're called that. Just into that wire ramp is a switch that closes to tell the machine that a ball is on the way to the far right lock. If that's closing when it shouldn't a ball kickout could happen.
The switch test you want is the "switch edge" test. When in that mode, you can activate all the switches on the playfield by hand and you should see them appear on the display if they are working properly. So in switch edge, a thump in the centre of the playfield in theory should not activate any switch, but if one is loose or badly adjusted a thump usually triggers it.
(and thanks for the PM!)

Habitrail. I was just calling it the lower wire guide. I learned something new.

Switch 'edge' test it is. I will check this out tonight. This makes sense though. When the two ball multiball started I had one ball in the right lock. The second ball I had just plunged. I remember the second ball starting to head down the second (or middle) habitrail to the center lock. I think it was just about to drop when the ball in the right lock fired out. Then the second ball fired out of the center lock. It happens pretty fast when it happens. It's difficult to remember. I need to try to reproduce it.

#462 6 years ago

@Nate - That wasn't meant to be a burn. I was being serious. I wouldn't have thought of it.

Okay, switch edge tests pass. I manually pressed each switch a few times and they all registered. Then I pounded on the PF a few times and nothing registered. Finally I gave the pin a good push tilt shove and still nothing.

When I originally posted this issue there were two other possible solutions. One was the habitrail not touching the center ball lock properly and the ball falling out. I have checked this and adjusted it. There is no possibility of it happening, besides it seems the culprit is the right lock, not the center.

The other was a diode issue I believe. This is a little deeper than my skill set right now. I think I need to play a few games without the glass and try to duplicate the issue to narrow down what exactly is happening.

[EDIT] I didn't do the switch test with actual balls. Will redo all tests now…
[EDIT2] Passed.

Hmmm… Now what?

#463 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I think I need to play a few games without the glass and try to duplicate the issue to narrow down what exactly is happening.

This

#464 6 years ago

50Quid, no problem, it just sounded funny - was poking more fun at myself - glad to make some valid suggestions!

Has anyone followed Vid's advice on "bulletproofing" a Sys11? I just got a Taxi and was wondering how long/involved doing all that board work took??

-Nate

#465 6 years ago

I've followed Vid's in the past for many things I'm doing, but not for bulletproofing. I didn't think Sys11's really needed any board bulletproofing. I've read about older Bally (Xenon) and Gottlieb needing work, but nothing specific for F-14 or even High Speed.

Added the 'sticker mod' to the lock/landing clear piece of plexi-glass tonight. I can't decide if I like it or not. I would say I'm 50/50 as of right now. Don't get me wrong, this is a quality sticker that is very much worth the price. The colours match up to the PF very very well. The overall look of the sticker I would say is a little more modern. I am not sure if it is a seamless blend, at less not to me (yet). Personally I was never a fan of the "L" shaped cover over the black area to begin with. I'm not really sure why Williams ever bothered covering it.

f-14sticker.jpg
^^^ This is only an example, this is not my pin.

Has anyone ever thought of painting it another colour? Red perhaps?

#466 6 years ago

Vids guide to bullet-proofing Sys3-7 has some useful advice in for Sys11. Things still wear out, so it's a good read. For Sys11 the particular one to take care of is adding the 2 missing fuses to protect against rectifier failure. Direct link to that is here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945742

#467 6 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Vids guide to bullet-proofing Sys3-7 has some useful advice in for Sys11. Things still wear out, so it's a good read. For Sys11 the particular one to take care of is adding the 2 missing fuses to protect against rectifier failure. Direct link to that is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945742

+1 Can't argue with putting those fuses in. Game fires (and house fires) are no joke.

System 11s are fairly robust, but these games have been around a very long time - much of the bulletproofing tips cover items of concern that are most likely to fail, helping to make/keep your game reliable into the future.

#468 6 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Vids guide to bullet-proofing Sys3-7 has some useful advice in for Sys11. Things still wear out, so it's a good read. For Sys11 the particular one to take care of is adding the 2 missing fuses to protect against rectifier failure. Direct link to that is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945742

This is great to know. Thanks guys, I had no idea. I honestly haven't looked under the hood much except to look under the playfield. Having two kids, and this being my first machine, I want to protect both. Adding this to my life of "to do's".

#469 6 years ago
Quoted from jodini:

Just got mine last night! It was a win/win because I didn't have the plastic shield on top, so used this decal for a templet and made one. The colors match nicely with the playing field.
Now...do I upgrade to LED's? Do you guys go all white or do you match the playing field? Suggestions?

PB131334.JPG 2.6 MB

PB131335.JPG 2.5 MB

I have a hand dryer in my shop used it for that mod decal helped it a lot to fit form but be easily ruined if you over heat it.

image-654.jpg

#470 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I've followed Vid's in the past for many things I'm doing, but not for bulletproofing. I didn't think Sys11's really needed any board bulletproofing. I've read about older Bally (Xenon) and Gottlieb needing work, but nothing specific for F-14 or even High Speed.
Added the 'sticker mod' to the lock/landing clear piece of plexi-glass tonight. I can't decide if I like it or not. I would say I'm 50/50 as of right now. Don't get me wrong, this is a quality sticker that is very much worth the price. The colours match up to the PF very very well. The overall look of the sticker I would say is a little more modern. I am not sure if it is a seamless blend, at less not to me (yet). Personally I was never a fan of the "L" shaped cover over the black area to begin with. I'm not really sure why Williams ever bothered covering it.

^^^ This is only an example, this is not my pin.
Has anyone ever thought of painting it another colour? Red perhaps?

I really think the designed graphics fits the 80's era pretty good it completes the play field personally for me. I only had this game two months felt something lacked visually saw that mod sticker on eBay bought it right away.

f-14sticker.jpg 303 KB

#471 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I can't decide if I like it or not.

Yea... I purchased this as well, and then took it off. I just like watching the ball more.

#472 6 years ago

I just followed the instructions to install it. It basically goes on like a water slide decal. Wet the plastic, throw the sticker on top, slide it around into position, squeegee out the water with a credit card, allow to dry. Viola! Then trim after it is dry. I find the sticker blocks my view of the "Mach 3" bulb due to the angle. I also don't like how "Mach 3" is where the screw hole is and interrupts the lettering. I think it was short sighted of the designer not to align the "Mach" and "Landing" lettering to the right instead of the left. I could have just not cut out the hole, but I cut it out from the back and didn't realise it until I went to install the black post.

Back to my two ball multiball misfiring… I had to play quite a few games before it happened. It happens on the 2nd multiball. Ball 1 is in the right lock. Ball 2 is plunged and drops into the center lock (right side). It ejects and hits the T in T-O-M-C-A-T to complete the word and all the flashers go off to alert the player that she/he can lock another ball. This is when Ball 1 launches prematurely.

I "think" this is what is happening. Again it's hard to catch and it happens infrequently and I am not able to replicate it manually with my fingers or using the balls. It's an odd one. I'm going to try and see how many games inbetween instances it actually happens. Unfortunately I don't set off a 2nd multiball often so my results may be skewed.

#473 6 years ago

Played another 10 games tonight. No misfire. The mystery deepens…

In other news. I took the two KILL stand up targets out. The left was shifting left every time the ball hit it. Pulled it out with the intention of using vice grips to crimp down the rivet. I look closer and I see the point of a nail sticking out of it. I peel back the tape and find an ancient nail. I guess the rivet broke sometime in the past and the repairman decided to quick fix it with a nail and electrical tape. I removed the nail and put in a proper rivet.

I love (and hate) finding things like this. I think it's cool to find a piece of history like this. Some point in the past someone worked on this exact same target and this was the fix she/he decided on to get the game running again.

#474 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I love (and hate) finding things like this.

Muttering "wtf?" while laughing is my standard response when I find these things. Good detective work.

1 week later
#475 6 years ago

Thinking of changing to LED in the flashers - which ones have those that have done this used?

I am looking at the 8 SMD #89 SUPER BRIGHT TOWER FLASHER from Comet, but wanted to see what others say. It is also mentioned that on Comet's website that these are a bit wider than normal, so is the a problem?

Thanks

#476 6 years ago

For Flasher LEDs, I believe you need to first make an adjustment to the board by removing the warming resistor. I don't know how to do that, do there are threads about it.

#478 6 years ago

Has anyone added mirror blades to their F-14? If so, I would like to see it. Thank you.

#479 6 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

For Flasher LEDs, I believe you need to first make an adjustment to the board by removing the warming resistor. I don't know how to do that, do there are threads about it.

Thanks - but I am aware of that already.

Just wondering which LEDs people are using (too many choices/makers).

Quoted from Fifty:

Has anyone added mirror blades to their F-14? If so, I would like to see it. Thank you.

I have considered it, but wasn't sure if it was worth it since the left side would be mostly covered - have also thought about adding some art as well, but didn't go much further on that either. But would also like to see if anyone has added blades.

#480 6 years ago

Its not on F14 but this is what your flasher boards should look like when modified for leds.
013.JPG

You just need to remove the 330 Ohm resistors or add a 10 ohm resistor to 1251 sockets to use 12V leds If you look at the 2 center flashers in the center of the panel a resistor has been added to convert to 12v bulbs or leds.

#481 6 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

Thinking of changing to LED in the flashers - which ones have those that have done this used?

I've changed some over on mine. I used Coin Taker's super #89

http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=473&categoryId=8

I plan on converting all flashers to LED eventually.

#482 6 years ago

So if I buy a set of blades from Cointaker I can transfer them onto another Williams/Bally game down the road right? Sys11 isn't a specific cut or anything?

#483 6 years ago

I put some on my Grand Lizard, you have to cut a piece out that's under the PF, if you want to move them to a different game later WPC etc, it would be underneath and not noticeable...

#484 6 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

I put some on my Grand Lizard, you have to cut a piece out that's under the PF, if you want to move them to a different game later WPC etc, it would be underneath and not noticeable...

Would you mind sharing a photo of how it looks?

#485 6 years ago

Can do, where the pivot is bolted on the sys 11 is where I had to notch them out, but its well below the pf, u can see the 2 nuts on both side shots....here are side shots closed, and under pf shots, I do plan on doing my F14 with black mirror blades I am pulling from my MM after my pingrafix loot arrives

IMG_0312.JPG IMG_0313.JPG IMG_0314.JPG IMG_0315.JPG IMG_0316.JPG IMG_0317.JPG
#486 6 years ago

Awesome! Thanks for the photos. I think it looks pretty good! It's not Fish Tales, or WPT, but I still think it adds to the look and is worth the price. Especially if you can move them out and into another machine later.

Thanks again!

#487 6 years ago

That's a great looking pf on your GL. Mine is nearly as nice, but most are blown out from what I've seen. Kudos to you sir.

#488 6 years ago

I just picked up and F14 this weekend. I only grabbed it up because it was a good price. I figured I'd clean it up and sell it shortly there after. After cleaning it up and adjusting some switches it plays 100% now and looks great. I put a bunch of games on it last night to test it all out.....Now I just might have to keep it! Damn it's a fun game! Especially for the money these go for. I'll have to read through this whole forum post, but I'm in the club now!

#489 6 years ago

D ont sell your f14...

#490 6 years ago

F-14 is like a drug. Well, pinball is the drug, but F-14 is like your re-up.

#491 6 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

F-14 is like a drug. Well, pinball is the drug, but F-14 is like your re-up.

I agree. I love my F14 !!

#492 6 years ago

Is it weird that I have a brand new Iron Man and I can't stop pressing start on F14 all night????

#493 6 years ago

Any news on the repro playfields?

#494 6 years ago

I d ont know why cpr d ont do a repro playfield...and backglass...

#495 6 years ago

Unsure why CPR dont make a playfield but it could be a insert availability problem or i think i might have heard some other company might be doing them instead.

#496 6 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Is it weird that I have a brand new Iron Man and I can't stop pressing start on F14 all night????

F-14 is a great game. There's a certain uniqueness about it, a distinctive fast flow, the lighting/sounds/theme are the icing on the cake - a good reason that approximately 14,502 Tomcats were produced. Now press that start button again.

#497 6 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

Unsure why CPR dont make a playfield but it could be a insert availability problem or i think i might have heard some other company might be doing them instead.

PPS is currently doing the playfields. We talked to Rick at TPF and he said they were in production back then, they were just waiting on them to get done. Hopefully they will arrive soon than later.

#498 6 years ago

Does anyone else have a bitch of a time getting the landings during multiball? I've had the game for 6 months, and I don't consider myself a novice, but I have yet to put my name on the high scores. I have failed…

#499 6 years ago

Once you get the shot down and figure out how to get the balls under control it isn't bad. Being able to bank that shot from the right flipper off of the center numbered targets makes it a lot easier though. Once you get on in the landing it is easier to get the others as the first ball stays in the lock for several seconds, giving you time to get another clean shot.

#500 6 years ago

Yeah, I'm still having problems with that banked shot off the 5. Maybe 1 out of 10 I hit it properly. That use to be 1 out of 20 or 30 before I waxed the playfield. My "5" target is warped so it doesn't deflect properly. I'm waiting to place an order for a few new ones.

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