Hey all, sorry for another tech post. I'm checking out an F14 and when powered on, there are several things that don't happen, and one thing that does that have me really scratching my head. I've tried looking at the guides, but I'm not confident that the boot up issues addressed there match what's going on with the game.

When powered on:
1) No displays, no diagnostic LED, no startup tone (obviously, since I'm not even getting through the initial diagnostics.

2) Left sling coil energizes momentarily. Pressing the flipper buttons causes the flipper coils to energize.

Again, you can't start a game, nothing comes up on the displays either. The only thing I've isolated, is that when 1J8 is disconnected (opto/switch on MPU), the coils previously mentioned aren't energized, however, it doesn't boot up either.

Lastly... There should be a harness for those GI wires on the PS, yeah?

Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

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The PS could mess with the game not booting?

So I'm lucky enough to have access to another working F14. We took the 5+ power from that game and hooked it to my MPU. The +5v came on, but nothing else. The guy helping me wanted to check the procesor ICs, 6820s. He plugged them in to the working f14 and the game did not boot or go into diagnostics. We then plugged the good 6820s from the working game into the non working board and it still didn't boot up. He said at this point it's really a shot in the dark as to where to go next. Thoughts?

Yeah I'm comfortable with it! I need the experience either way.

So I just went through the guides and tested all of the PIAs with my meter and found that pin 9 on U51 is shorted out. Probably a good idea to start by replacing that PIA, yeah?

I don't have a test rom, just ordered a logic probe and computer power supply. I also have the manual and schematics.

I checked u11 and u13 as well.

Following this: If either of these two chips is bad, the game will never boot. Check both of these chips using your DMM with the game off. Set your DMM to the "diode" setting, and put the red lead on ground (pin 10). Then put the black lead on pins 1-9 and pins 11-19. You should get a reading between .4 and .6 volts. If you get a short (zero) reading, replace that chip.

On pin 16 of u 11, I got a reading of 0.088. I'm kind of confused because the schematic only shows 8 lines that lead into u15 (which didn't work in the working f14 either) and I'm assuming this is because 10 is ground?

Lastly, U2 and U3 are giving me crazy readings. If I'm reading the schatic right, pin 2 is the ground in those chips. I'm getting readings from 0.071 to 0.869 from leg to leg.

Edit:

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So I've replaced the MPU after trying to repair the old one myself and after being given advice that it's likely a giant paperweight now.

Now the game boots up and is playable!

UNTIL..... the right coil got so hot that it melted the coil sleeve and locked the flipper bat into place. I had a hell of a time getting the old coil off and the new one on. After verifying the correct wiring of the right flipper coil, I got the new one installed and started a new game. Within two or three minutes, it was definitely starting to get warm with very little use. The left coil wasn't even warm to the touch.

I was instructed to check and see if the appropriate fuses were in the game, and they are. What direction should I head in now?

Thanks, pinside!

Also, I've checked to see that there aren't any other wires touching and tried visually inspecting for shorts with no luck.

Thanks way-out. Can those caps be tested in circuit?

Here are pictures of the open and closed EOS. I'm going to go ahead and replace it. In test mode, it only registers one out of every three or four activations that is being hit.

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Thanks.

That issue is fixed. Is was the EOS switch. Just when I thought this thing was good to go, something ELSE goes wrong. I have a Rottendog MPU with te daughter board for the sound. I hadn't put the daughter board on yet because I needed a new chip for the 3802(?) spot. I finally got that, plugged it in, turned the game on, heard a pop, and now I have zero sound. I detached the daughter board (which is how I had it, but had sound before) to no avail. Did I blow out my sound board or something? I'm not even getting a test tone on power up.

Im still getting the constant hum, and I just played a game and in the middle of the game I got the start up tone... Any ideas?

The game never rebooted, just randomly got the startup tone. Ill go check now.

Voltages are all fine.

I've pulled each of the power cables, ribbon cables, and ground cables. Upon doing so, I get no sound at all, not evens the static I could hear when everything is plugged in.

However, upon inspection of the EPROMs, one leg was bent and not in the socket. I reseated the EPROMS and am now able to hear only two sound effects, the launch noise off the plunge and the bonus x noise when you shoot one of the inner loops. I can also hear the test tone upon power up now as well.

I should also note that you can't hear these in test mode either.

Here's where I'm at. Again, I had the daughter board from the MPU011A (Rottendog) off and had sound before all of this started.

In this series of events, no sound means even in test mode.

Since Monday, I've done the following while working with the D-11581 sound card:
1) Took a deep breath.
2) Installed two 6802 IC's into the U3_D and U24 on the Rottendog Daughter Board.
3) Powered on game, heard a pop from the speakers and turned off the game.
4) Removed daughter board, powered on game, no sound, no boot up tone, nothing.
5) Unplugged and reseated connections at J1, J2, J3, and the ribbon cable at the analog I/O. Powered on game, no boot up tone, no sound.
6) Reseated ROMs at U4 and U19 on the D-11581 and the music roms on their respective locations on the daughter board. Boot tone present, no other sounds.
7) Reseated 6809 at U8. Boot tone present, get the plane launch and bonus x noises while in game, no other sounds in game play, no sounds in test mode (even those present in-game).
8 ) Powered game on without J1 plugged in (while all others), no sound.
9) Powered game on without J2 plugged in (while all others), no sound.
10) Powered game on without J3 plugged in (while all others), no sound.
11) Powered game on without Analog I/O plugged in (while all others), no sound.
12) Upon physical inspection of the card, found that the 6809 U8 was very warm.

Could my IC at U8 be shorted? Could I have shorted out the 6821 at U12 somehow? I feel like I've looked at everything and can't figure out why this is happening.

To make matters worse, the schematic online and in my manual are for the other model sound card that was used prior to this one, so I have no reference point to look upstream of either one of those to figure out what could have gone out. Womp.

Any further guidance is appreciated.

Morning bump

The D-11581 was used after the first 5000 games produced according to pinwiki

Also, the sound has worked completely before.

I may have mistyped. Sorry.