(Topic ID: 235380)

F14 tomcat kill yagov misfire

By Zero4199

5 years ago


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  • 59 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#16 5 years ago
Quoted from Zero4199:

I went through and checked the switch diodes.
No problems found

Did you do a switch test in the menu, with the balls removed, insuring that only one switch shows on the display for for 3 cycles.

You should straighten out the switch blades. The blade with the weight should touch the square pad on the door. The clear tubing should cover the metal lead of the diode.

Quoted from Zero4199:

Can the LED lights mess with it and cause these issues?

No, but SCR6 has been known to cause some switch issues, but look at the other options first.

#18 5 years ago

Don't know if you are able to replace SCR 6 yourself but that is where I would go next.

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from Zero4199:

Where is it, and what does it look like

It's on the CPU, near connector 1J-8. It looks like the pic below. It's no longer made like the original. But it can be replaced with something similar. In the first pic you see that the resistor array has a ground connection on pin 10, this is because the original part had capacitors and resistors. The ground connection was for the caps to remove noise from the pulsed signals. If the caps start going bad they can cause false signals to be introduced in the circuit. The replacement parts do not have the caps and the 10th pin is no longer needed. So when you purchase the replacement part you can purchase a 8 resistor array and leave the 10th pin hole exposed on the circuit board. Some people don't like the look of this and want a more original looking part so you can buy a 9 resistor array and cut off the 10th pin of the resistor before installing it on the board. After installation it will cover the 10th pin hole on the board and look more like the original. The dot on the resistor array is a label for pin 1.

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#21 5 years ago

Here is the 9 pin version that solders in without cutting, but pin 10 on the circuit board is exposed.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4609X-101-102

Here is the 10 pin version that needs the 10th. lead cut off and installed so it doesn't contact the 10th. hole on the board.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4610X-101-102

#23 5 years ago

If you are capable of replacing this part, then I would buy the 10 pin version as it looks better to me when finished.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4610X-101-102

When you are ready I can walk you thru the replacement. I just don't any pics of before and after.

#25 5 years ago

Yep. Looks like Q-49 needs some attention too.

#28 5 years ago

It looks like it was soldered in from the top side.

#31 5 years ago

Yes they are 2n3904 transistors.

#33 5 years ago
Quoted from Zero4199:

what tools do I need?

This sounds like you do not have any circuit board repair experience. This is a 400.00 board, nothing to be experimenting on. Do you know someone close by that can help you with this?

#37 5 years ago
Quoted from Zero4199:

Maybe I can practice on some old boards.

Yes do this. Also check out Terry B pinball site, lots of great stuff there.

https://pinballrehab.com/

If you find that you can not find some one near by to help let me know.

#39 5 years ago

30.00 dollars.

1 week later
#47 5 years ago
Quoted from Zero4199:

This area behind the white things was hot at one point
[quoted image][quoted image]

This is normal, those are high wattage resistors and are very warm when the game is on.

#52 5 years ago

Do you think that the old resistor pack was cracked in the middle before you removed it?

#57 5 years ago
Quoted from Zero4199:

Its installed in the machine and has fixed the gameplay issue.

Playball!!

1 year later
#59 3 years ago
Quoted from Lpilot1:

Could someone tell me what’s on the SCR6 cluster? I can’t seem to find it in the schematics. Thanks!

Page 56 of the manual.

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