Is your EOS switch properly adjusted?

No diodes on the flipper coils, correct? Correct number coil? Check the coil with your ohmmeter- it may have shorted turns from overheating, reducing the resistance and increasing the current. Compare to known good coil.
Check voltages to make sure they are correct. Not sure how you could get too much voltage but check to make sure.
You can run without the yellow cap, it's there to reduce contact arcing, but I can't see it causing the problem.
Don C

Yes, this is baffling. Thanks for posting the schematic.

I am going to suggest more diagnostics. I am going to assume you confirmed all wire colors in connectors, and they are the correct wires in the correct spots on the connectors. If adjusting the EOS does not help, here are some ideas:

My crackpot theory is that you have a sneak path to ground, fairly high resistance, that heats the coil continuously but is not sufficient to pull in or hold the flipper. I suspect it's in the wiring unique to the right flipper with the coil that overheats, from the coil thru two connectors to the cabinet flipper switch blade for that coil.

Meter method:
Game off: Remove the Blk-Yel wire from one right flipper and the Blu-Vio wire from the other right flipper. Meter between the end of the Blk-Yel wire just removed to ground. Should be very high ohms, like Megohms. Press flipper button and it should drop to near zero. Now meter from the end of the Blu-Vio wire to the same ground. Again, should be very high resistance. If there is a difference between the two, then current may be sneaking to ground somewhere along the wiring from the coil thru the cabinet flipper buttons to ground, probably thru the flipper button capacitors or dirt with metal particles in it built up on the switch insulators.

No meter method:
1. Try removing the capacitors on the cabinet flipper buttons (if they are there). If leaky, they could create a current path through the coils but with the flipper button open. Maybe enough current flows to heat the coil but no enough to pull the coil in. Also, if the cabinet flipper switches and their little bakelite spacers are covered in the typical black dirt, clean that up in case that is leaking current. See if problem persists.

2. Again along the leaking current theory, disconnect the (Blk-Yel or BluVio, whichever is the right front one) ground side wire of the coil that heats up (at the coil terminal), and disconnect the wire running from connector at the point where it is soldered to the cabinet flipper switch blade (eliminates all cabinet wiring and connectors 8J3 and 7J1 between the coil to the actual switch contact). Then run a jumper wire from the coil direct to the switch blade. This eliminates all wiring not common to the upper switch. See if problem persists.

Don C.

It certainly sounds like the EOS switch not opening fully when the flipper is 'up'. Remember there are 2 switches on the flipper bracket. One should open, that's the high power to the flipper which would then just leave the hold power. The other switch should close and that's the one on the switch matrix which the game uses for triggering lane change etc.

Can you throw here a few pictures of the wiring and switches? Sometimes a second set of eyes provides that "D'oh moment"...

Mark

The more I look, the more I see. More ideas:

F14 is the transition game to parallel wound coils from serial wound. Clay's guide for System 11 has a very good section on this.

What were the symptoms when the flipper originally went bad? How long had it worked correctly, how did you notice the problem?

This schematic you posted is for parallel wound coils, so it is correct. In the schematic, when the EOS is closed, both coils are energized when the cabinet button is pushed. When the EOS opens, the power coil has no path to ground, and only the hold coil is energized. A leaky EOS switch capacitor or Hold coil diode would run current through the power coil even when the EOS is open, causing extra heating. You can temporarily disconnect the cap to check.

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From Clay's Guide:

FL23/600-30/2600: series wound, "standard" flipper strength, and used on games High Speed to Millionaire only. Requires one flipper diode. Same strength as FL11630.
FL11630: parallel wound, "standard" flipper strength, as used on nearly all system 11 games. Requires two flipper diodes. Same strength as FL23/600-30/2600.

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What if the ones you are installing are the series wound? Not sure what would happen if you had a series coil in a parallel circuit (unlikely because you said that you got new ones), but the game may have been miswired for a long time, but the first coil somehow survived. Check the wiring against Clay's guide and the schematic. Which lug has the thick or thin wire and how they are connected are critical.

If everything is right, then you can still try my ideas about the wiring between the coil and the flipper switch in my earlier email.

So, Mark has the best idea so far, take some photos and let us puzzle over it.

Don C

As a new tomcat owner - i'm not the most versed on this machine yet - but i can contribute this:

If you EOS is TRULY not opening - i'd be apt to think you'd pop a fuse on the flipper power board within a handful of average length games (at least i did).

Ah-ha!!!

Congrats, hope it is solved.

Don C