Wish I had an answer. However you should always check a fuse fully pulled with a DMM, visual can be very unreliable.

I don't blame you, I recently had to buy xpin displays for mine and really did not want to shell out 200$

If you do though, they are super nice and look fantastic, I am very happy with them.

There were 14 prototypes made.

They had a X in the serial numbers.

LOL poor Gonzales.

Yes there with a few changes to F-14's over the years;

Some early ones had white lenses in the backboard.
Some had all 4 flashers in the upper playfield.
Some had the 2 of the 4 flashers pulled in the field but still have the resistors/wiring
Some had the 2 of the 4 flashers pulled at the factory and don't even have wires.
Some have a printed circuit board to hold all the backbox flashers, some had them on separate sockets.
Some had #47's under the playfield inserts.
Some had #555's under the playfield inserts.
Some had a white center beacon.
Some had a yellow center beacon.
Some had a clear center beacon.

There is a good youtube on how to re-install the removed 2 flashers, and it's not just a 'put in 2 sockets' type of operation. When the factory disabled them they also rewired the remaining two to flash as one.

The #47 and #555 insert issue is what messes up a lot of folks buying LED kits.

Been a couple posts about how people had a proto, but in the end they just had one of the not common types. Only real way to know a proto is the 'X' in the serial number as Vid states.

Oh yeah, so to get to your display issue. Sadly if you never saw it working it makes it harder to troubleshoot.

If they both went out together, then you may be lucky and have a logic issue.
If they went out one then the other, unfortunately your looking at new glass.

When the glass goes, a lot of times it just goes poof.

Look very closely at the glass, do you see any white spots in it? If yes, its trash. Do you see any big burns? If yes, it's trash.

Without a spare to swap in, you either need to unsolder and swap in new glass, find a friend who can test it, or just by an LED replacement. XPIN makes a nice RED display that would look good on an F-14.

Bottom left display, 3rd char from the left, notice how the segments look 'speckled' and not clean lines like 2nd char from left? That does not bode well.

You can purchase numeric glasses, and they are cheaper that the 2 alpha above if you know how to use a soldering iron and get out of it cheaper.

Or ignore it for now, once every couple of weeks someone posts a used System 11 display for sale/parts and just snag one of them.

At one time I had 3 machines using that display, 1 lost a glass so I replaced it with a LED, then another lost a same type glass replaced it with an LED then used the 2 broken ones to make myself a spare. Too bad both of the same type are out on yours, only hope is to find a bad one that has bad ALPHA. Or a used.

Thing with the LED display is you can fix the bad one in your free time and sell it to recoup the cost of the LED.

To me it looks like #'s 3, 4 and 5 look speckled? Should they all look like #1 and 2 ?

If this link works you can scroll down and it talks about the Early F-14 display.. Says they can "Special Order" it. I'm sure there will be a "Special" price along with that too..Haha

http://www.lakesidepinballparts.com/pinballdisplayboards.html

This place is about two miles from my house. I've also got an F-14 project coming up and was hoping to use them for some parts. I stopped by a couple weeks ago and the owners (older couple) seemed like good people, so might be worth a shot.

Good to hear that, I was going to add that I had never done business with that company. It just came up while searching Google. Thanks for the input

Bay area amusements has them in stock, that's where I got mine, also look to be cheaper.

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=XP-WMS11610-O

I looked at the two displays I have out on mine, also the bottom two. One of them looks nice and solid while the other is a little questionable.
What are some of the ways to test the displays to see if they're getting power and are not 'out-gassed" ?

Hopefully someone else chimes in, I feel like I read once you can hold up a plasma ball light to them? Totally unsure so don't do it, bumping this up hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in.

Thats is exactly how you can test if a plasma display has been outgassed. You hold it up to an $10 kids plasma ball from Spencer Gifts..

Really only good if the display is off the module, or simply mounted to a board with no logic.

Problem is if you do that while it is still attached to the module,,,, well you will be able to tell if the display is good and pretty much guarantee the chips are now all bad. One big mega electrostatic discharge....... Ouch.

http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=654

7 digit numeric displays are $50/each so you're at $100+ shipping plus labor to change them.

Used System 11 display boards usually around $60-$90+ shipping and you don't know how much life it has left.

X-PIN orange $199 and you know it works and has a warranty.

Call XPIN and ask why. I think it had something to do with the glass nipple holes on the older displays, but they can tell you and they are VERY helpful. http://xpinpinball.com/products/displays/XP-WMS11610

You can email Marcos and ask when they will be back in stock, I did when I was shopping around and they got more in stock pretty quickly.

I am having the same problem you described with F-14 player 3 and 4 displays. However, in my case, I also have a Millionaire, so I was able to confirm that the problem isn't with the display boards (both display boards/panels worked in the Millionaire, but players 3 and 4 both were out in the F-14 Tomcat). It seems like the voltages all check out OK. Was this situation resolved? Any suggestions for me??