(Topic ID: 191785)

F14 switch help and wiring help needed.


By Arcade

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Arcade
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There have been 18 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

f14 flipper power board (resized).png
IMG_1836 (resized).JPG
IMG_1839 (resized).JPG
IMG_1842 (resized).JPG
Buttons (resized).jpg
IMG_4159 (resized).JPG
IMG_4158 (resized).JPG
IMG_20170621_224840_179 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170621_224845_913 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170621_224853_580 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170621_224902_835 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170621_225101_102 (resized).jpg
IMG_3960 (resized).JPG
My lock switch (resized).jpg
my trough (resized).jpg
power board (resized).png

#1 2 years ago

Just got a project F-14. It needs some TLC and I need help from some experts out there.
I will post pretty detailed photos below with yellow circles or highlights next to what I am describing.

There are really two problems that I need to tackle. The first and most complicated are three under playfield switches I need to order that do not seem to be available from any source I have searched.

There seem to be two switches in the trough area that I need. Numbers 10 and 11 on the chart.
And also switch #21 that is in the mid ball shooter lane area where the ball locks in place.

Switch 10 is listed as 17-1067 and my game seems to have a home made switch rigged up and circled in red in my photo. according to the diagram I will post below it should be up and to the right in the yellow circled area.
Can someone please take a photo of the ball trough area so I can see what this is supposed to look like? Because the diagram below from the manual is a bit different from what is actually under my playfield.

Switch 11 listed as 5647-12073-07 is just a flat leaf switch so I'm sure I can just cut one to size.

And my other problem is that someone pulled all the wires out of a 9 pin molex 3J3 on the power board.
The wires I have do not match the manual diagram below for the wire colors.
It says I should have two voilet blue wires and I do not have those colors.
So a photo of that plug pictured below would be most helpful.

Switches playfield (resized).jpg

Trough assembly (resized).jpg

power board (resized).png

my trough (resized).jpg

My lock switch (resized).jpg

IMG_3960 (resized).JPG

#2 2 years ago

Bump for photos of the underside of ball trough and connector 3J3 on power board.

#3 2 years ago

Here you go, ramrod

IMG_20170621_225101_102 (resized).jpg

IMG_20170621_224902_835 (resized).jpg

IMG_20170621_224853_580 (resized).jpg

IMG_20170621_224845_913 (resized).jpg

IMG_20170621_224840_179 (resized).jpg

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

Here you go, ramrod

That is exactly what I needed. Can't thank you enough sir.
Now I see my suspicion is confirmed about the make shift ball trough switch on the left in my photo.
Should not even be there at all.
Crazy things we find in pinball games huh?

#7 2 years ago

All parts have been ordered to get this game back to stock.
Special thanks to gutz for providing the excellent photos.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

All parts have been ordered to get this game back to stock.
Special thanks to gutz for providing the excellent photos.

And how the manual could be so far off on the wiring for 3J3 on the power board is amazing. Glad I asked now.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

And how the manual could be so far off on the wiring for 3J3 on the power board is amazing. Glad I asked now.

Manuals do have errors, unfortunately. Sometimes they reused pictures/schematics from previous games and didn't change the differences. Or maybe the factory ran out of violet-blue wire and didn't want to halt production

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

Manuals do have errors, unfortunately. Sometimes they reused pictures/schematics from previous games and didn't change the differences. Or maybe the factory ran out of violet-blue wire and didn't want to halt production

yea.
If you look at the schematic I posted above it lists a violet/blue wire on pin 5 which is not even used.
And a violet blue wire on pin 4 which is a red/white in reality.
That is what was confusing the heck out of me.
I have two more 9 pin connectors that the previous owner pulled all the wires out of as well but the manual seems to be correct on those.

1 month later
#11 1 year ago

I now have all the above problems sorted out.
My CPU board is back from Chris Hibler and is booting up and going into attract mode.
Getting close now.

My next issue is that the game will not credit up or start.
This is probably due to the mess at the menu buttons. (Photo below)

The game came to me with a totally broken button and lots of wires cut off of it an the other buttons.
I have no idea where to begin putting this mess back together. I will need photos of a proper button wired up at the least.
I have checked online and of course no one makes system 7 or 11 button sets anymore.
I do have an old 4 button set that was clipped off of a WPC game, but not sure it will help me any. (Photo below)

Here is what currently happens when I power on the game.
1. It boots into attract mode but for some reason all 4 flippers are active if I press the flipper buttons. (Strange)
2. Can't put a credit on with switches.
3. If I press the game start button it fires all the coils like a ball search, but will not start a game.

Any ideas or photos of a working button set are much appreciated.

IMG_4158 (resized).JPG

IMG_4159 (resized).JPG

#12 1 year ago

Found this photo online but not really clear enough for all wire colors.
Plus it even looks like a diode is involved.

Buttons (resized).jpg

#13 1 year ago

Maybe these will help...

IMG_1836 (resized).JPG
IMG_1842 (resized).JPGIMG_1839 (resized).JPG

#14 1 year ago

Thanks a million. Those are great.

Also just came across this product from Siegecraft.
Looks like it replaces the coin door button entirely.
And for $6.00 would save me a ton of work.
Anyone know about this product?
http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=20&controller=product&id_lang=1

1 week later
#15 1 year ago

Ok figured I could not go to wrong for $6 so I just got the little Siegecraft board in.
However is says to plug into 1j4.
But 1j4 on my board is a large 9 pin power plug. Not a 4 pin.
I have looked at all the 4 pin connectors and can't get continuity on any of the to my coins door.
Any idea what plug on the board controls the coin door switch inputs?

My best guess is 1J14

Edit... ok it was 1J14
It worked!!!!
Got my game in free play mode and started up a game.
No flippers or pop bumper but everything else seems good.

1 week later
-1
#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcade:

No flippers or pop bumper but everything else seems good.

These items still not working? If not, there are a few fuses you need to check that are mounted to the bottom side of the playfield. Hopefully, you have a burnt one.

Far as flippers, check the fuse on the flipper power board to the right of the MPU board. If the fuse is blown, then sounds like the bridge rectifier is shorted (mounted just below the fuse circled in yellow).

f14 flipper power board (resized).png

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

These items still not working? If not, there are a few fuses you need to check that are mounted to the bottom side of the playfield. Hopefully, you have a burnt one.
Far as flippers, check the fuse on the flipper power board to the right of the MPU board. If the fuse is blown, then sounds like the bridge rectifier is shorted (mounted just below the fuse circled in yellow).

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

These items still not working? If not, there are a few fuses you need to check that are mounted to the bottom side of the playfield. Hopefully, you have a burnt one.
Far as flippers, check the fuse on the flipper power board to the right of the MPU board. If the fuse is blown, then sounds like the bridge rectifier is shorted (mounted just below the fuse circled in yellow).

We did get the flippers working by re seating the U50 IC chip on the main board.
However the slings and pop bumper are still dead.
Some say it is probably still the U50 chip and that it may need a new socket put on the board.
But I will double check the fuse you circled out of circuit first.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcade:

But I will double check the fuse you circled out of circuit first.

The fuse I circled would be for flipper power.
Check under the playfield, there are at least 2 fuses there, one should be near the pop bumpers.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

The fuse I circled would be for flipper power.
Check under the playfield, there are at least 2 fuses there, one should be near the pop bumpers.

Got it.
Thanks again.

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