You have a problem. Switch wired wrong, diode on backwards, something shorting to switch wiring or to switch lugs.

You'll need to go over all of your game to find it. Could be lots of places.

LTG

Sure you can. It won't change anything or fix anything, though.

LTG

As Lloyd correctly states, you can disconnect all the tilt switches (plumb, slam, incline) but it won't fix your problem and you'll still get tilts. You'd have to disconnect the entire row 7 of the switch matrix that has the slam tilt switch on it, and that'd lose you about six other playfield switches that you need for the game to operate. The problem isn't with the switch on any one of your tilts. It's a problem with a shorted switch or a bad diode somewhere in the playfield, or a bad component on the board involving the switch matrix, that's allowing row 7 to be grounded when column driver 1 is on.

My F-14 had the same problem. Tilts caused by the slings....

copy / paste some info from old pinrepair.

SRC6* (1k/470 pfd) = resistor/capacitor network for switch matrix columns. Has 1k ohm resistors with 470 pF caps in a single package. Can not be tested in-circuit. Replace with a 1k ohm x 9 resistor bussed (10 pins) with no capacitors. Cut off pin 10 (important!), and install pin 1 (common) in pin 1 of the board. The cut pin 10 of the resistor network does not go into the board's pin 10 position. See notes below for more info on this. Mouser part# 652-4610X-1LF-1K.

I actually have the same problem with my tilt, slam, and credit button on my Embryon, pop bumpers are going off too. I replaced all the caps associated with the switch matrix but not the resistors. These carbon film resistors are notoriously prone to heat stress. They actually get lower in resistance (almost to a direct short) and once they do it causes all kinds of weird behavior.

Yeah, The AS-2518-35 MPU has 137 resistors. Most are 5% tolerance so if they fall out of that range its suspect. Time to whip out the DMM.

best way to test them is to remove one leg of the component and use your DMM to test.

I don't have the patience to test 137 resistors, once I get the parts, I'm "shotguning" the board and replacing them all.

Nope, roughly 31 different values on the board. I would estimate maybe 30-40 deal with the switch matrix of the playfield/cab, while the rest are for logic signals and power regulation. In total maybe $30 USD in parts to replace all of them on the board...and about 5 hours of pain replacing each one...

interesting, yes will only change the resistors related to switch matrix first. If it worked for you it certainly should work for me.

Wish I understood this talk... Mine is doing the same thing. help!!!

Try what Barakandi said above, I did this on my F-14 and it fixed the random tilting issues. It is very common on F-14's from what I gathered in researching this problem. Quoted from above:

I will try and put it in laymans terms. SRC6 is a component on your CPU board (the big board with the batteries in the backbox) It should be labeled as SRC6 on the board and I believe it is on the bottom edge, if not it is labeled in your manual. It is a little skinny thing. You need to remove your board and using very small wire cutters cut that off of the board. Then you need to remove the leftover pins in the board by desoldering them and remove all of that old solder. Then you take the new component you ordered from mouser (Part# 652-4610X-1LF-1K) and cut of the 10th pin on it. You will see on it a white dot, this indicates the one pin. Really cut that 10 pin off so that it does not come into contact with the board. There should be a white dot on the board itself indicating where the 1 pin goes. Solder that new one in and hopefully that will fix it. This has worked for many people in the past. Let me know if you have any other questions. I may even have a spare one laying around, I can look when I get home and mail it to you.

It sounds much more complicated than it is, I did it and have only moderate soldering and board experience.

If you ever come back, I have spare 1k ohm x 9 resistors bussed (10 pins) with no capacitors, will mail you a couple.

Friggin sweeeeet steve. Ill pm ya.

Bingo!!! There she is!

image.jpg

That is definitely the one installed from the factory, I bet replacing it fixes it.

Hey Steve, I Pm'd you also but so everybody else can see, did you mean to cut the far left pin off, and put it on the board with the black dot on the chip being pin "one" matching to the white dot on the board? For anybody following this fix I will post here and in the "let's hear it for praticalsteve thread" I started.

The lil screwdriver is pointing to the black dot

image.jpg

Yes cut the far left pin off, that is the tenth pin. Yes solder it back on so that the little black dot is on the far right like in your photo, that little white dot on the board indicates that should be the one pin. When you solder that into the board, do not solder that tenth hole, leave it clear and clean of solder. Make sure that the cut tenth pin is not in the hole at all.

If the part is bad, just cut the one pin off until you can get the new part.

Well, my buddy finally stopped by today and put the chip back in for me. I can't wait to get back home tonight and try it out cross your fingers pinheads.

Hope it worked!

So far no problems, I only got to play it for about 45min-1hr by the time I got home last night. He got the 10th pin cut as close as he could, but to me looked like it was still enough to touch the board by the time it was soldered back on. Hopefully its not enough contact to worry about because I usually run into the tilt at least once every 2-3 games. I played about 6-7 games last night with no problems!!!!! Thanks again PRACTICALSTEVE!!!! Woohoo. If I happen to run into it I will redo it myself with the extra one you sent me

Great! You can take the glass off and start multiball with your hand, and hit a bunch of targets over and over and test that way too.

Tilt issue FIXED!!! Practicalsteve is a genious folks! Haha or I'm an idiot whichever. How did u figure out that fix? What exactly is it doing with that pin being cut out anyways? Anywho thanks again bro!

I have been following this thread because I am having a similar issue on my Space Shuttle with it ghost tilting after locking a ball for multiball. It kicks out the new ball, you release the plunger and it tilts. Effectively ending your turn. This only occurs once every 8-10 games at random. SS is a system 9 game and does not have this same part so does anyone have a suggestion for me??

Ha! Hardly, I got all of that info off of old posts on here and RPG. I think that since you are replacing the resistor with a different type you need to cut that pin.

Wish I could help with this, but have no system 9 experience. Have you started a thread specifically with your problem? I bet someone on here knows.

Also, so stoked it worked!