(Topic ID: 242975)

F14 fuse keeps blowing


By nitrocow

9 days ago



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  • 32 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by nitrocow
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#1 9 days ago

I picked up a f14 pinball machine that worked 100% after I moved it home and got it set up I blow the 2.5 slow blow fuse
That handles the coils for the kick outs

I’ve looked for a short and can’t seam to find any

When I turn the machine on and before I start a game the fuse blows about 15-30 seconds

Any ideas on what to test ?

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#2 9 days ago

You already mapped out exactly what you need to check.
Start checking diodes, bridge rectifier and see what you get from there.
-Mike

#3 9 days ago

I think the most likely suspect is going to be that transistor. I'd check that first.

Have you recently unplugged any cables? I'd check to make sure that you have the plugs aligned correctly and not shifted by a pin. I'd also check the bridge rectifier.

#4 9 days ago

I re seated all the connectors I’ll double check and make sure they are on correctly. (The machine didn’t like the move)
No loose wires and I followed the purple and yellow wire around the cab

#5 9 days ago
Quoted from nitrocow:

I re seated all the connectors I’ll double check and make sure they are on correctly. (The machine didn’t like the move)
No loose wires and I followed the purple and yellow wire around the cab

And the transistor?

#6 9 days ago

I’ll double check those haven’t noticed anything that looks out of place

#7 9 days ago

I’m going to pull the boards and check the back side and make sure I don’t have a short or any thing strange going on

#8 9 days ago

One more thing to check is the coil itself. It could have an internal short which is causing the fuse to blow when it activates.
I've had this happen on several games, mainly on pop bumper coils. If resistance is too high or too low you can have problems.

#9 9 days ago
Quoted from nitrocow:

I’ll double check those haven’t noticed anything that looks out of place

Short of a catastrophic failure, you won’t *see* anything wrong with it. You have to test it.

#10 9 days ago

I did have a coil that wasn’t able to move freely, the kick was hitting the rail

#11 9 days ago
Quoted from nitrocow:

I did have a coil that wasn’t able to move freely, the kick was hitting the rail

Nice, so problem solved?

#12 9 days ago

No I replaced the fuse and same problem
So i either damaged the coil or have another issue

#13 9 days ago

Is a coil stuck on startup of a game?
I'm currently working on a Whirlwind and because of a stuck popbumper, a fuse on the aux power board keeps blowing.
Maybe you've got the same problem

#14 9 days ago

Everything seams to be ok I’ll have to test all the coils and see if one went bad and is causing the short

Thinking I shook something out of place during the move

#15 9 days ago

Snip the single wire to the coil. Then power on.

#16 9 days ago

Most likely one the two diverter coils is locked on. If it was one of the other coils it would burn the fuse in one second. Look for a shorted transistor in the special solenoid section. You don't need to remove the board for testing.

#17 9 days ago

I’ll give those a double check and test the coils

#18 9 days ago

Ok so tested all the coils they all Seam to test the same

Double checked all the connections

When I turn the machine on I hear one big click and the fuse pops

If I unplug power to the board no fuse pop.....

If I unplug the flipper side no fuse pop

Not sure what else to try

Still new to pinball repair

#19 9 days ago
Quoted from nitrocow:

When I turn the machine on I hear one big click and the fuse pops

You have a shorted transistor. Disconnect these 3 connectors in the pic below. Use a DMM to test the 22 drive transistors to find the one that is shorted.

Quoted from nitrocow:

Still new to pinball repair

Do you have a DMM? Do you know how to use it?

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#20 8 days ago

I do have a digital multi meter
I did notice I had to transistors touching
One was Bent over

#21 8 days ago
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#22 8 days ago
Quoted from nitrocow:

I do have a digital multi meter
I did notice I had to transistors touching
One was Bent over

Those two rows of transistors are to control the computer controlled lamps. You need to look at the transistors next to the red circles on the pic I posted. Place your DMM in ohms and stick the black lead under the ground braid that is stapled to the wood of the back box. Then with the power off use the red lead and test each of the 22 transistors metal tabs. Note the transistors number that has a low resistance. Let me know what you find.

#23 8 days ago

I’ll give them a test when i get home
And thanks for the help so far

#24 8 days ago

Here is the testing I did hopefully I did it right ?

Also when I unplug the plug that comes from the flipper board to the play field (one under the pf) the fuse doesn’t pop

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#25 8 days ago

I had a similar issue with my f-14, the coil would lock on at startup. It ended up being the diode on the coil.

#26 8 days ago

I had a coil plunger get stuck on the drop rail from the diverter lane and it feels sluggish and I’ll have to go test all the diodes

#27 8 days ago
Quoted from nitrocow:

hopefully I did it right ?

Did you remove the 3 connectors before testing?
I colored your list, green circles are good readings.
Red circle looks bad to me. These are the diverter coils.
If you cut the blue/black and the blue/green wires off of the divertor coils and insulate with tape you should be able to replace the fuse and turn on the power with out burning the fuse.

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#28 7 days ago

When I have the 3 sets of wires disconnected I get ol on every test

I disconnected the diverter coil wires and the fuse still blew

#29 5 days ago

Leave all 3 connectors off, replace the fuse. Turn on the power, does the fuse blow now?

#30 1 day ago

Yes fuse still blows

#31 1 day ago
Quoted from nitrocow:

Yes fuse still blows

Well then you have a short on the purple/yellow wire. Not that easy to find. With the fuse removed and the 3 connectors removed, connect your DMM to the purple/yellow wire on one of the affected coils and black lead connected to ground. Set DMM to diode test. Your DMM will be buzzing because there is a short. Now start looking for a pinch wire or a broken wire that is touching metal or the ground braid. If the buzzing stops while moving the wires around, keep looking for the problem in that area. It can be as simple as a coil lug is touching a lamp bracket. Once the metal lamp bracket is bent away so the two aren't touching, problem solved. F-14 is very tight under the PF and things get bumped when serviced.

#32 16 hours ago

I’ll give that a try and triple check everything

Thanks for the help

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