(Topic ID: 240621)

F14 flashers


By johnny77

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by johnny77
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    15551990808083628854114318234378 (resized).jpg
    20190413_162440 (resized).jpg
    TIP122-Pin-Outs (resized).png
    and (resized).jpg
    q-14 (resized).PNG
    fl 10 (resized).PNG

    #1 3 months ago

    Hello, just turned on f14 and some of the flasher are stuck on. Looks like all flashes effected have the white black wire. I noticed that ceramic resistor was loose not on board but in side its housing. Could this be issue?

    #2 3 months ago
    Quoted from johnny77:

    Could this be issue?

    No.

    Quoted from johnny77:

    Looks like all flashes effected have the white black wire.

    This would be flasher #10. If you pull off 1J-12 connector off of the CPU board, does the flasher turn off?
    If yes, then you have a board issue on the CPU.
    If no, then you have a wire (Brown/Violet) that has been shorted to ground somehow.

    #3 3 months ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    No.

    This would be flasher #10. If you pull off 1J-12 connector off of the CPU board, does the flasher turn off?
    If yes, then you have a board issue on the CPU.
    If no, then you have a wire (Brown/Violet) that has been shorted to ground somehow.

    so i unplugged connector and lights are out.

    #4 3 months ago

    Most likely a driver or predriver has gone bad. Do you have a logic probe?

    #5 3 months ago

    I do but id never used it. Lol.

    #6 3 months ago

    Using a logic probe is easy. Find the 5 volt and ground test points on the cpu board. Connect the black lead to the ground test point and the red lead to the 5 volt test point. Select TTL on the probe. Turn on the game and put it in coil test and stop on solenoid #15. In the pic solenoid 15 is high lighted, it states that Q-14 turns flasher 10 on and off. In the next pic you see a diagram of the control circuit for solenoid #15. Now since you locked the coil test on solenoid #15, it should be pulsing the control circuit on and off. Start by placing the probe tip on U-17 pin 8. Pic #3 shows which pin is #8. It should be a low with a high pulse. Then place the probe tip on the base lead of Q-14, it should be a low with a high pulse. Pic #4 shows which lead is the base. Let me know what you find.

    fl 10 (resized).PNGq-14 (resized).PNGand (resized).jpgTIP122-Pin-Outs (resized).png
    #7 3 months ago

    This the probe i have.

    20190413_162440 (resized).jpg
    #8 3 months ago
    Quoted from johnny77:

    This the probe i have.
    [quoted image]

    Should be fine. Just move the switch to TTL.

    #9 3 months ago

    Yes it has a pulse on chip.and base

    #10 3 months ago

    Flasher 8 i get a high and low pluse on chip leg number 6 and high low Q22 collector.

    #11 3 months ago
    Quoted from johnny77:

    Yes it has a pulse on chip.and base

    Well it sounds like the transistor Q-14 is bad. I would recommend replacing it and Q-10 too. I upgrade the TIP 122 to a TIP 102 as they are 60% stronger. Q-10 is a 2n4401.

    #12 3 months ago

    Ok i replaced Q14 same issue. The radar flashers flash with all other flashers and so does flasher behind the 2 stand up targets. Flasher 7 stays on all the time. And back box flashers dont flash.

    #13 3 months ago
    Quoted from johnny77:

    Ok i replaced Q14 same issue. The radar flashers flash with all other flashers and so does flasher behind the 2 stand up targets. Flasher 7 stays on all the time. And back box flashers dont flash.

    There is more to this then you are letting on, did this just start?

    Quoted from johnny77:

    Flasher 7 stays on all the time.

    These were disconnected from the factory.

    #14 3 months ago

    Yes

    #15 3 months ago

    The top flasher around the loop

    15551990808083628854114318234378 (resized).jpg
    #16 3 months ago
    Quoted from johnny77:

    The top flasher around the loop
    [quoted image]

    This was #7 in the early versions, in the later versions this is flasher #10. Have you installed led flashers?

    #17 3 months ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    Have you installed led flashers?

    lol

    looks like it. If it has LED flashers installed you need to cut off the 330 ohm warming resistors.

    #18 3 months ago

    Yes they have leds installed

    #19 3 months ago

    So what i found out is that one of each 89 on back box flasher 9 and 10 was blown out and causing the issue with other flashers staying on. I replaced them and game went back to normal. Weird that it need as all lamps working if not it causes issues. Thanks for your help and teaching me how to use the logic probe.

    #20 3 months ago

    If you are using leds in the flashers and keeping the warming resistors, you need to keep one incandescent so that there is enough draw on the circuit to keep the leds off. But if the incandescent burns out the leds lock on. I like to remove the black ground wire from the resistor board and insulate, if you every want to put it back to original it only takes minutes to solder it back on.

    #21 3 months ago

    Ok cool man i really thank you for all your help.

    #22 3 months ago

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