(Topic ID: 195336)

F14 Flasher troubleshooting

By Toyguy

6 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by GRUMPY
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#3 6 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

Can I perform a typical "ground the transistor" test as I would to test a solenoid, stopping the test on Flasher 4 then briefly grounding the tab?

Yes you can. On a flasher you don't have to be brief as the pair of flasher bulbs will not melt like a coil will.

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

I should have Solenoid B+ on the bulb all the time and the driver circuit just provides ground, so I ought to be able to meter for around 35V, right?

Yes and no, Yes it's B+ @ 32 volts dc but this is switched voltage between the A side and the C side. Default is the A side for the coils. So you need to put it in solenoid test for the A/C select and then you should see a pulsing voltage on the orange wire on the bulb socket. Then the voltage goes thru the bulb to the 5 ohm resistor on the resistor board and then to the diode board and then to the CPU board and ground at the TIP.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

Any other thoughts on how to go about troubleshooting this

Read some of this and do some more testing and tell us if you run into more problems.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-flashers-not-working/page/3#post-3044898

#10 6 years ago

Lets see a pic of the new flasher board.

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

One thing I did differently was splitting the two ground wires to both sides as the holes were a little small. I can't see that this matters as the trace is fully connected across both.

This is fine.

Quoted from Toyguy:

I metered the second white/yellow wire down to the molex at the bottom of the playfield where it goes back to the rear lamps. With the lead disconnected, no continuity between the lead and the orange voltage wire. With the lead jumpered to the socket, good continuity, so I think the main playfield wiring is good.

Yes.

Quoted from Toyguy:

Metering the orange and white/yellow pins on the other side of the molex also shows continuity but now Ieed to try and get that darned bulb out of there to see it the continuity opens when it's removed.

I wonder if the bulb filament is shorted in the bulb, this could cause the other bulb to not light as there would be b+ on both sides of the good bulb. I had assumed that you had already changed both bulbs before posting, that's what I get for assuming.

#16 6 years ago

So the socket is shorted keeping both bulbs from lighting. Nice find.

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