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(Topic ID: 143756)

F14 Backglass lighting problem


By Grasshopperski

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Grasshopperski
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

I just had my wife's F14 pinball game restored and it is awesome from what it was prior. We have the LED lighting upgrade amongst other items that needed to be replaced eg: digital display and some other chips on the motherboard that got fried due to the leaking battery pack. I've noticed that some of the lights on the backglass do not light up. I used my DMM and set it for continuity and traced the wires (brown and white with 2 brown hash marks) back to the main power board. I have good continuity but I think there is no power going to the circuit from the power board. What do I need to do next to check for power. I've seen that there are aftermarket companies that make new power boards which appear to do away with the massive heat sink etc. Would this be a good thing to do, upgrade the power board with the thought of providing a more consistant power supply??? Any help would be appreciated.

#2 4 years ago
Quoted from Grasshopperski:

I have good continuity but I think there is no power going to the circuit from the power board.

You are going to need to take voltage measurements to be certain, instead of guessing here. You've identified the branch that has failed, and these split off after the relay at connector 3J8 and are fused after it (4 separate fuses. The one you would be looking to check has the wht-brn wire)

Upgrading to a digital display and/or new power supply is money well spent IMO. I have a Rottendog PS and Pinscore display in my F-14.

11GI.jpg

#3 4 years ago

How do the connectors look on the board, are they burnt? I would be a bit upset if you just spent money to have this restored and they gave it back to you with these lights not working? Have they ever worked?

#4 4 years ago

Thank you both for responding. As far as the lights go, I should have elaborated earlier, I have partial lighting, the top and the right side of the lights work, its the left / lower side that is dark (brown wire and the white / hash marked brown wire. One thing I did notice that the plug that plugs into the circuit board, if I hold one end of the DMM on either the brown wire on the backboard, or the wht-brn wire, and take the other end of the DMM and touch any of the wires that go into this plug I have continuity. Does this plug have a shared ground within it? I have checked all of the fuses and they have continuity across them. I remember when I picked the game up from the restorer, the backglass seemed brighter. So I do not know if the drive home, and subsequent trip down the basement steps via handtruck jarred something loose, or it's a 28 yr old piece of electronic has just failed.

The plug and the connector at the board both look fine, no discolouration. I checked the white brown wire at the fuse and across it and I have continuity. There is a yellow relay that the wires via the circuit board lead into, and I wonder if the contact has failed inside, and the only way I'd be able to tell is to power it up, which I am leery on doing.

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from Grasshopperski:

if I hold one end of the DMM on either the brown wire on the backboard, or the wht-brn wire, and take the other end of the DMM and touch any of the wires that go into this plug I have continuity. Does this plug have a shared ground within it?

Yes you will have continuity, as pins 6-9 on J8 are tied together on the board (circled in red on the diagram). GI is AC voltage, so you don't measure this with respect to ground. Set DMM to AC volts and measure from the corresponding striped branch wire to its solid color counterpart on J8 to check all 4 branch circuits. You are going to need to turn on the power to do this. The relay turns on/off ALL the GI lighting. So if you have partial GI, the relay isn't the problem.

11GIb.jpg

#6 4 years ago

You might check for a cold solider joint on that pin on the board.

#7 4 years ago

You need to remove the fuse to test it! It will always read good in circuit.

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to remove the fuse to test it! It will always read good in circuit.

It won't always read good in circuit. The main reason to remove a fuse in circuit is sometimes the glass separates or cracks off the end caps. Pressure in the fuse holder might hold it tight enough for a good reading, when the fuse could actually be intermittent and about to fail. Sometimes you'll pull the fuse out and the end cap falls right off or spins.

#9 4 years ago

GI fuses will test good in circuit because your reading the bulb and the transformer.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

GI fuses will test good in circuit because your reading the bulb and the transformer.

Agreed

3 weeks later
#11 4 years ago

First off I apologize for not getting back to everyone sooner, I found my problem. I traced all of my wires from backboard to the fuse block and then down to the transformer. I unplugged a couple of connections (yel / wht) and reinserted them the lights worked for a little bit, back to tracing wires, the fuse holder on the power supply board had a little bit of corrosion on the fuse, so I cleaned the metal ends and the sockets and low and behold let there be light. THANK YOU ALL for your responses here. Does anyone have tips on how to use this website? Question is that I would like to post directly to the F14 game thread, rather than general. Thought being is that people have a tendency to go direct to their game and more people would see the question at hand.

#12 4 years ago

For small issues you can go to the F14 Tomcat "owners club" thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome

Larger issues you can post in the appropriate forum and "tag" what game the thread is about (above the first post). That way your thread can be easily found if you go to the game-specific page.

#13 4 years ago

Thank you

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