(Topic ID: 261231)

F113 blowing on demo man. Not BR2

By drsfmd

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by drsfmd
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 4 years ago

    Fired up my Demo Man tonight, and F113 blew immediately. Per this old thread (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ft-fuse-f113-blowing), I pulled the connector at J101 and the fuse does not blow, which he indicates means that BR2 is not the problem.

    Thoughts on where else to look would be appreciated.

    #2 4 years ago

    If you pull J101 the fuse won't blow because there's no AC input. Odds are really good that BR2 is bad.

    https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Using_a_Multimeter_to_Test_the_Bridge_Rectifier_and_Capacitors

    #3 4 years ago

    Thanks. I'll give that a try tonight. Pretty sure I already have a BR or three in my parts stash, so hopefully it's that simple.

    Edit: Just re-read that thread I linked to last night... it was late, I was tired, and I totally misread it. The instructions were to pull everything *but* J101. I pulled *only* J101. Whoops. Looks like I'm swapping out BR2 tonight. I'll report back.

    #4 4 years ago

    The BR can be easily tested using a DMM set to diode check.
    Black on "oddball" leg. This is the one that is out of "square".
    Red on adjacent legs. .4-.7 should be the reading.
    Red on leg catecorner from "oddball" leg.
    Black on adjacent legs. .4-.7 should be the reading.

    You may see "short", which is a clear indication of a failed bridge.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    #5 4 years ago

    So it *is* BR2 after all. Pulled the board, removed the BR. Only had lugged BRs in my stash, so I have to order the right part... I’ll report back in a few days.

    While I’ve got the board out, would you replace the other BRs as preventative medicine? Or is BR2 the only problem child?

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from drsfmd:

    While I’ve got the board out, would you replace the other BRs as preventative medicine? Or is BR2 the only problem child?

    Only the bad one. Too great a risk of doing more harm than good. Unless you like board repairs and trouble shooting through and across board continuity.

    LTG : )

    #7 4 years ago
    Quoted from drsfmd:

    While I’ve got the board out, would you replace the other BRs as preventative medicine? Or is BR2 the only problem child?

    No need to fix what is not broken. There is no reason to.
    Good on you for acquiring the right part. I've seen many BR hacks where amateurs would hack in a lugged BR using amateur methods.

    While it's out....check C2 to ensure it's not leaking. This happens frequently, affecting the 12VDC circuit.
    Check J101 and J114. If shiny and bright, move on. Otherwise, if you are up to it, replace them. Rationale: those are the power in/out connectors. They are at the top of the list for causing resets.

    I wouldn't mess with any of the big 15,000uf caps. They are hard for the typical hobbyist to remove without damaging the board. And again, don't fix what is not broken.
    --
    Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
    http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
    http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

    #8 4 years ago

    Proper wire legged BR was acquired to replace BR2. We’re back up and running... thanks for the assist gents.

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