(Topic ID: 324807)

F-14 Tomcat Restoration 2022

By blackknight2000

5 months ago



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    #1 5 months ago

    Hello Everyone - I’ve been restoring arcade cabinets for 4 years now and recently took on my first Pinball Restoration project and boy is it a doozy! To be honest it doesn’t make me flinch - it should be a pretty easy restore. All the important parts like the playfield, plastics and boards are in great shape. The wood on the backbox is good too - just needs a little edge repair- nothing a little Bondo can’t fix. The bottombox on the other hand has some pretty extensive water damage and I believe I will need to recreate - it which is something I am able to do. The game came with all new art however I am considering getting stencils. Well I know I’ll need some help so I am starting this thread. I’ll post my first question in the next post. Thanks for reading and if you have any suggestions as to some modifications please feel free to post em.

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    #2 4 months ago

    I would change the topper domes to red-clear-blue, and the six red flashers in the back of the playfield to clear. There's nothing quite like the bright spectacle of the light show on this game. Have fun!

    #3 4 months ago

    I’ll consider it - current update - I routed out a copy of the front panel, I’m gonna attempt to replace the front and bottom of the body of the cabinet. I also started cleaning various part. I need to remove everything from the head so I can restore it first. Also does anyone know the name of the spacer part in the last photo? I need a few to replace the broken ones on this cabinet. They are from the back of the little score LCD screens and they attach it to the PCB.

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    #4 4 months ago

    Well last weekend we installed Frank’s Lithium Battery Mod - the battery box was removed before I got this machine so we had not been able to boot it up properly. After the install and figuring out the door wasn’t grounded we got the game to boot. For the most part it seems every is working. I’ll post a video in a few days.

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    #5 4 months ago
    Quoted from blackknight2000:

    Also does anyone know the name of the spacer part in the last photo? I need a few to replace the broken ones on this cabinet. They are from the back of the little score LCD screens and they attach it to the PCB.

    self adhesive PCB mount?

    https://www.newark.com/multicomp/apcs-6/pcb-mounting-round-nylon-17-8mm/dp/81N2586

    #6 4 months ago

    Thanks - I was able to find them at a local store prior to buying them online. I replaced all but one of the pegs today. Slowly tackling one issue at a time.

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    #7 4 months ago

    This game has a group of 50 volt coils on a single 2.5 slow blow fuse. The pair of divertor coils are part of this group, but are lower current draw then the rest. The problem is when one of the divertor coils locks on its not enough current draw to pop the fuse right away, so it sits there and cooks until something catches fire. An easy fix is to add a 1 amp fuse to each of these coils. An in line fuse holder like this just takes a few minutes to install.

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    #8 4 months ago
    Quoted from GRUMPY:

    This game has a group of 50 volt coils on a single 2.5 slow blow fuse. The pair of divertor coils are part of this group, but are lower current draw then the rest. The problem is when one of the divertor coils locks on its not enough current draw to pop the fuse right away, so it sits there and cooks until something catches fire. An easy fix is to add a 1 amp fuse to each of these coils. An in line fuse holder like this just takes a few minutes to install.
    [quoted image]

    Thanks for the heads up - a friend that is working with me on this game will be able to make out a bit more of what you are saying here. We will definitely attempt to address this issue.

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