(Topic ID: 242187)

F-14 Tomcat problems

By TOKYOSANDBLASTER

4 years ago


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#1 4 years ago

Hi all,

I got an F-14 Tomcat about a week ago. It was working great until yesterday. I couldn't get it to start a game, the launcher just popped. I realized there was a ball in the launcher still right as it comes off the initial ramp. As soon as I got it out and drained it the machine loaded up a game fine.

Now, when you launch the ball as soon as it hits either spot off the initial ramp, the game thinks the ball drained. It stays in there but does all the drain sounds and starts another ball.

I feel like theres an easy fix to this but I have no clue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

#4 4 years ago

I'll do both of these! Thanks for the suggestions. Hopefully won't take long...

#5 4 years ago

Okay here's the video of what I'm dealing with

Thanks!

#7 4 years ago

Again thanks for everybodys help. If you can't tell I'm a novice.

So I completed the solenoid test. Some of the solenoids made a clicking noise but didn't actually "pop". They were

03A ball popper launch
05A center right eject
07A Right eject
10 Center left eject
12 line of death kickback
13 rescue kickback
14 ac select relay

Would this lead me to believe it's a power issue of some sort? Again, I'm running blind as of right now but I'm learning quick. Thanks again for the help in advance!

#13 4 years ago

Yes only 4 balls. I'm gonna grab a multimeter tonight and test some fuses. Hopefully that's the issue. I'll try the switch test too.

#14 4 years ago

Yeah, that fuse definitely went. The attached picture Is the one I pulled out of it. I put a new fuse in and it worked great for about 2 minutes than blew again. I'm feeling like this may soon be leaving novice territory but I'm willing to tinker still.

I realized the fuses we're all different in the box. It calls for a 2.5amp fuse. I tried 1a and it worked for about a minute and blew, tried 3a and it blew immediately. Im gonna run back to Lowe's and find a 2.5 now that I know what I'm looking for, if that goes I assume one of the coils is bad?

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#17 4 years ago

Ah see these were time delay. I thought this was the same thing. I'll find some and report back.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

When you replace the fuse with the correct size and type rerun the coil test. Stop at each coil for half a dozen pulses while watching the fuse. Note which one it burns out on. Report back your findings.

Finding this exact fuse has been difficult. Ordered some. Should be here Wednesday. If I don't find one tomorrow I'll report back then. Thanks for the help!

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

Since it's an F-14 odds are one of the lock diverter coils in the top left is fried and is blowing the 50V fuse. These were wired to 50V on most F-14's when they should have been wired as 25V since they don't have a relay or a TIP36 turning them on.
If so you'll likely have to replace the melted coil and blown transistor(s) and possible a chip.
After that see this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-wiring-differences-on-diverter-coils-50v-vs-25v

Oh man that sounds pretty intensive but I'll definitely try to replace if it comes to it. I finally got the fuses in. Finally got 2.5a aaaaaaand they're too small. I dont understand why they have the same numbers on them. I'll keep trying to find them

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#26 4 years ago

That's what I figured. I ordered some from that site so I'll still look for them in the wild but otherwise I'll have an update when they come in.

1 week later
#27 4 years ago

So the fuses finally came in. It now pops as soon as I power up the machine. I looked into running the 25v wire to it but that seems to be over my level right now. I wanted to run the coil test again but if it pops as soon as I power it on I cant.

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So now you have a shorted transistor. Its easy to find if you have a DMM. Remove the 3 connectors that I have circled in the pic below.
Set your DMM on resistance, place the black lead under the ground braid cable stapled to the wood in the backbox.
Use the red lead to test the metal tabs of the driver transistors with the power turned off. There are 22 driver transistors that look like the pic below.
Note the number of the transistor when you get a low ohm reading on your meter. Let me know what you find.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Okay, I hope I did this right. I attached the picture of what I think I was supposed to be testing. If so this is the ohm ratings I came up with.

Bottom left, left to right

1-.7
2-.08
3-.7
4-.7
5-.6
6-Not used
7-.68
8-.08

The one to the right of it had no ratings. Multimeter just had OL the whole time. Open loop?

The vertical one on the right, from top to bottom.

1-OL
2-.09
3- not used
4- .09
5- .09
6- .1
7- .1

I hope this made some sort of sense. Let me know how off I am here. And as always a tremendous thank you for your help.

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#31 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I may have not been as clear as I should of been, you need to test the pins on the board not the wire connector.

That's what I thought initially but I didn't get a reading on any of them. All OL. I didn't think I was doing it right but if I got the readings somewhere then I guess I was. I had the machine off that's correct right?

#33 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This means that the driver transistors are good but a predriver transistor maybe bad causing the driver transistor to turn on when it shouldn't. So retest this time with the power on.

Hmm, still not getting anything. I included pictures, this is what you're telling me to do right

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#35 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Looks like your testing is fine. Did you test all 3 connectors? Could the ground braid be bad? Try retesting with the black lead on a board screw head and the red lead same as before.

Tried that too, still nothing. It's not because I don't have the fuse in right?

#38 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/
This is a great site that can walk you though troubleshooting and fixing many problems.

Wow that's great I can't wait to dig into that.

I'll try again soon but I can't get a resistance reading on the transisters at all. The MM is pretty much brand new so I'm not sure what the issue is.

#40 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

It may not be a board issue. It might be a pinched wire. Leave the 3 connectors off, replace the blown fuse, turn on the power. Does the fuse still blow?

The 3 connectors that the other poster had circled? I'll try that when I get home I'll let you know.

#41 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

It may not be a board issue. It might be a pinched wire. Leave the 3 connectors off, replace the blown fuse, turn on the power. Does the fuse still blow?

Nope, left them disconnected and the fuse did not blow. I left it on for about 5 minutes. Fuse is fine.

#43 4 years ago

So, newest update. I tried the connectors one by one to see which one popped the fuse. Tried all 3 and none popped. Tried them in different combinations, none popped. Tried all 3, and it was fine. Just played two games as if nothing happened. I'm still worried long run but what the heck could have caused it to work all of the sudden??

#45 4 years ago

Well I played a game and got the multiball. Both balls stuck in the right solenoid. I checked though and the fuse didn't pop.

Turned it off and turned it back on, all the coils popped and the balls drained. Thought I was in the clear. Played another game, same deal. Looked at the fuse popped. Back to square one. This pinball stuff can be frustrating!

#47 4 years ago

I attached pictures of both solenoids in question. I tested the coils with The multimeter and they all seem fine. I see the diode on the diverters coils but not the upper solenoids.

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#50 4 years ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

If your comfortable soldering moving the 25v wire is pretty straightforward. I acquired a f-14 a couple months ago and had to do a lot of the same troubleshooting.
Have you made sure the micro switch on the wireform leading to the kick out is registering. If that switch does not register it will not kick out properly. Same goes for the switch that the ball sits on.

That was mentioned one other time. Ive soldiered in the past but I'm not sure I trust myself enough for this type of thing. If I was positive which wires to use I would probably try it. I've read that the red wire is supposed to come from the pop bumper?

#56 4 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

Yours is already wired to the 25V from the factory. Some came this way. I just had an early sample F-14 late last year and it was wired 25V from the factory.
25V is the Red wire with the white stripe
50V is the Purple wire with the yellow stripe.

Looks like it is the 50v wire

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#59 4 years ago

So my diverters are actually hooked up with the red wire so those should be good. Once again I put a fresh fuse in and nothing went wrong. I ran the coil test and every coil popped 20 times with no fail. So something has to be shorting under the playfield or like somebody else said a pinched wire.

#61 4 years ago

This is getting insane. I don't know how many games I've played but it's been fine. This is with the playfield down. I finally close the back box and put the glass on and it doesn't go one game without blowing the fuse. Something has to be catching in the backbox. The glass wouldn't change anything would it?

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