So a little clarification is needed. The first problem is that the ball was stuck in the first lock. Now when you plunge into the other two locks the game counts it as a drain immediately?

Could you take a video of the problem and post the link? That will give us a better idea of your issue.

You need to get a manual and give a good read. Then ask your question over with correct part numbers so that people can give you good advice instead of a best guess.

Start with the switch test in your manual Page 29 in your manual.

Ive seen the red wire break on the Yagov kicker. Hard to see as the coil is under the ramp. This could be your issue if fuses are good.

If you just got the game don't forget the fuse upgrades for the rectifiers in back . Will save your transformer.

You should not need that test as of yet. Try the switch test. The only switches you should see activated will be the balls waiting in the trough.
11 right ball trough
12 right center ball trough
13 left center ball trough
14 Left ball trough

You can remove these activated switches by taking the balls out of the game.

This a much better description of your issues. Certain coils is this game are at high voltage (50 volts) and need a relay to activate the high voltage. Since none of them are working I would expect that the fuse is burnt. If you look below the flipper power supply there is a single fuse by itself with a purple/yellow wire on it. Remove and test it.

Also I'm assuming you only have 4 balls installed in the game?

From memory that fuse needs to be a 2.5a slo-blow fuse, not a regular (fast) one.

This is correct. You are not likely to find slo-blow fuses at Lowes

When you replace the fuse with the correct size and type rerun the coil test. Stop at each coil for half a dozen pulses while watching the fuse. Note which one it burns out on. Report back your findings.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945742

The topic title says System 3-6 but the same thing applies to early System 11 games

After getting a new (old) game one of the first things to do is to check all of the fuse values (amps) and types (fast blow (FB) or slow blow (SB)) and replace them all with the correct fuse (see page 32 of the manual). This is cheap and you know you are starting off right. I usually have good luck calling auto parts stores for fuses.

Also, whenever diagnosing problems look for signs of previous work done, this is usually where the problems are.

Since it's an F-14 odds are one of the lock diverter coils in the top left is fried and is blowing the 50V fuse. These were wired to 50V on most F-14's when they should have been wired as 25V since they don't have a relay or a TIP36 turning them on.

If so you'll likely have to replace the melted coil and blown transistor(s) and possible a chip.

After that see this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-wiring-differences-on-diverter-coils-50v-vs-25v

That fuse will fit the fuse holder but it's the wrong type of fuse, you need a slow blow fuse. You can still use it for troubleshooting.

Here are some places to get the correct fuse.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MDL-2-1%2F2

https://www.pinballlife.com/1-14-slow-blow-fuses.html

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MDL-2.5

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton-electronics-division/BK-MDL-2-1-2-R/283-2743-ND/954323

So now you have a shorted transistor. Its easy to find if you have a DMM. Remove the 3 connectors that I have circled in the pic below.
Set your DMM on resistance, place the black lead under the ground braid cable stapled to the wood in the backbox.
Use the red lead to test the metal tabs of the driver transistors with the power turned off. There are 22 driver transistors that look like the pic below.
Note the number of the transistor when you get a low ohm reading on your meter. Let me know what you find.

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I may have not been as clear as I should of been, you need to test the pins on the board not the wire connector.

This means that the driver transistors are good but a predriver transistor maybe bad causing the driver transistor to turn on when it shouldn't. So retest this time with the power on.

Looks like your testing is fine. Did you test all 3 connectors? Could the ground braid be bad? Try retesting with the black lead on a board screw head and the red lead same as before.

Put one lead of your meter on ground (corner screw of MPU board). Put the other lead on the metal tabs of the transistors. A shorted TIP102 will beep on the meter.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/

This is a great site that can walk you though troubleshooting and fixing many problems.

It may not be a board issue. It might be a pinched wire. Leave the 3 connectors off, replace the blown fuse, turn on the power. Does the fuse still blow?

Try reconnecting one connector at a time to see which one will blow the fuse. This will narrow it down to 8 instead of 22.

Magic!!

Maybe a pinched wire.

Check the adjustment of the switch. Change the diode on the coil, make sure to install it correctly. Silver line toward the purple/yellow wire.

If your comfortable soldering moving the 25v wire is pretty straightforward. I acquired a f-14 a couple months ago and had to do a lot of the same troubleshooting.

Have you made sure the micro switch on the wireform leading to the kick out is registering. If that switch does not register it will not kick out properly. Same goes for the switch that the ball sits on.

You will need to add a diode on any coil that doesn't have one on this era machine. The electrical spike when the coil discharges can do damage to other components, the diode allows this electrical spike to drain without causing damage.

Now your pic of the divertor coils shows someone has put lubricate on the plungers. All of this crap needs to be cleaned off and the coil sleeves need to be replaced. Once everything is cleaned then you need only one drop of oil on the pivoting pins. Follow this service bulletin.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_no_number_undated_to_resolve_binding_diverter_gate_assembly.pdf

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