Around 100 people are due F-14 Tomcat reproduction playfields. Let's discuss our work, questions, and everything else here. Welcome!
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Around 100 people are due F-14 Tomcat reproduction playfields. Let's discuss our work, questions, and everything else here. Welcome!
Quoted from dri:A three minute hack! » YouTube video
This is honestly kind of helpful! Watching the technique and process seems logical.
Quoted from master_of_chaos:How many T-Nuts and wich ones do we need?
I'm wondering this as well.
Quoted from Boof-Ed:Could it be that the original one wasn't routed out properly? Mine was all the way up to the blue and the nos one was the same.
Interesting. So your metal kickouts run flush to the blue paint? I have an early production without light boards.
Thanks for the info guys. Looks like I likely have a unique situation here. Curious if it will pop up for anyone else.
Quoted from nightsearcher:Looks like I'll have to fill mine in about 1/8", as my brackets looks shorter also. Will likely put a small Mylar over it, once filled.
What are you going to use to fill it?
Wow. Amazing that those were sold like that. At least they held up better than I would have expected.
Quoted from shirkle:The gap that my new playfield will have is a lot larger than that of the playfield bobukcat posted above
I tested the mech, it doesn't appear to hit the wood (at least the way I mounted it). I'm wondering if in fact I could just move it forward to be flush with the route.
Quoted from shirkle:used the original ground braid. I just pulled up the original staples and desoldered it.
Same here. There are only a few spots, but I pulled the staples and just transferred over.
Quoted from Buthamburg:Hello to all
Just saw this thread now.
We will see if we can change the milling and the artwork for the next run.
We check it on our playfield, we can push the bracket to the front to make it flush.
Regards from Hamburg
Peter
Hey Peter,
Looks like some originals were milled all the way to the artwork, others not. I'm not sure the next run should be changed. It looks like it will work out just fine moved forward.
Quoted from Wes910:Heads up this bar did not get pre drilled holes on the repo field
I noticed that. Any tips, or is this just an eyeball it scenario?
Quoted from shirkle:Today was pretty momentous for me- I'm done soldering!
Wow, Congrats! I started on the topside so i'm working on the harness now. So far, i've found my first PF swap to be pretty fun and not nearly as bad as some people make it out to be. Some games are a nightmare though, i'm sure.
Quoted from bronco-jon:No need at this time...You got the wrong flipper coil there, (11630 goes on bottom flippers and 11722 goes in top) and your snubber board looks fried too....just sayin
Wow, holy hell. I'm surprised I mixed up the coils. I should take some more inspection photos
I'm pretty sure my board is okay, just a bad photo.
Quoted from bobukcat:R1 does look toasty, just like every single one of them were on mine. I put larger power resistors in to replace them as something is clearly inadequate in this design.
All of them are in about this condition. What P/N did you use as a replacement?
If anyone else is looking into this see: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-snubber-board-resistor-value
Copy/paste:
What most people did was use a 150 ohm resistor of 2 watts rating to replace the burnt resistor. Williams had drastically undersized the wattage rating and had only used a half watter there.
Quoted from bflagg:I haven't given up......yet. Previous owner did. Based on what I see, I don't think he had a good approach
Not referring to you, was referring to the previous owner. How's it going btw, able to make some sense of it?
Quoted from dozer1:Something to check here. I recently did a PF swap in my Fire. I had a short in 1 GI string. It turned out to be one of my staples very near a GI socket. It was on the hot tab of the socket and the staple angled over and touched the socket ground.
Good tip, thanks. I have a feeling that might be the issue.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:Well I finally installed my F-14 decals with the metal leg protectors and the legs still dug into the decals and cut them, but below the protectors.. It appears that they may have cheapened up the leg protectors by making them thinner metal. Had they been thicker, this wouldn't have happened. I bought these protectors from Pinball Life "Metal Cabinet Protectors (set of 4) 535-0599-00" I should have checked closer before tightening them down. But this is B.S. So be warned. The legs are brand new Williams system 11 legs too. Sorry no picture.
This is a bummer. Mine wrinkled a bit too.
I personally left the clear guards off as well, and I had brand new ones. I think it just looks better without them.
Quoted from stumptown:Anyone have any tips for adjusting the shooter lane wireform?
I had a similar problem. Not sure what was wrong, but I solved it by installing a stronger spring on the shooter rod.
I'm sure I used a workaround, but the ball whips up and around pretty fast which is cool.
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