(Topic ID: 176240)

F-14 Tomcat playfield swap club


By damageinc55

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 210 posts
  • 43 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 68 days ago by stumptown
  • Topic is favorited by 26 Pinsiders

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#2 2 years ago

Time to build a double-decker rotisserie?

Actually, what is the best way to move everything efficiently from one playfield to another?

Peter said the new F-14 playfields are dimpled for the early production (all lamp socket) playfields. I'm lucky in that respect. The later production (circuit board lamp holder) playfield owners might want to start by redimpling the underside of their playfields.

1 month later
#72 2 years ago
Quoted from Wes910:

Heads up this bar did not get pre drilled holes on the repo field

I'm pretty sure that bar is not on early production playfields like the one that Peter used as a template. Mine doesn't have it.

Edit: I take that back. The bar is just missing on my machine. The holes are there. Time to order a bar...

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1 month later
#141 2 years ago

I created a couple of new instruction cards. I thought I'd share here for anybody that likes them.
Print them edge-to-edge on 4x6 photo paper and just snip off the top with some scissors.

F-14 Instruction.JPG

#143 2 years ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Very nice !
Wake up forum !! No other guys working on a F-14 playfieldswap ??

I'm slowly replacing and/or repairing all of the moving parts and replacing all of the battered targets on my machine.
I'm going to wait the recommended 6 months and then throw a couple of extra coats of clear on my new playfield. I'll share more as the fun happens.

#148 2 years ago

This is my first new playfield. I want it to be perfectly smooth and last a lifetime. Six months is what the manufacturer buthamburg recommended:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demand-check-f14-tom-cat/page/8#post-3536738

I want the clearcoat to be as cured as possible before I start throwing ball bearings at it and I have plenty of other renovations to make before I'll be ready to swap anyway.

10 months later
#175 1 year ago
Quoted from stumptown:

Anyone have any tips for adjusting the shooter lane wireform? Since I reinstalled it I'm finding the ball stalls most of the time a few inches into the chute, or will not make it up with enough momentum to round the loop. The way I can get the ball to most consistently enter play is by going really light on the plunger, maybe 1/4 pull, which I can already tell is going to stymie younger and/or impatient players.
I've played other examples that launch more reliably so I know it can be dialed in better than this, wondering if anyone could advise as to what worked for you in that regard.

Mine was doing the same thing. You just need to remove the wire form and gently pry it open a little more at the shooter end. When you re-install it make sure to fasten it tightly from the bottom with some washers and locknuts.

2 months later
#178 1 year ago

Just got my playfield back from Kruzman. It’s throughly buttered. Now to try to not screw it up with my rebuild.

31D9C742-E919-424E-9156-BC140A88D53C.jpeg

#181 1 year ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Sweet !!! is it fully dimpled ?

It’s all dimpled from Peter, but i’ll still need to verify and drill every hole on the top side. It’s going to be a painstaking process.

Quoted from pintechev:

No; that comes after the ball hits it... /me ducks

#185 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I am with you Cletus! Still have to finish clear coat yet though.

You’re way ahead of me. My cabinet is stil in ruins. I’ll try to catch up though.

2 weeks later
#187 1 year ago
Quoted from apc7654:

Could someone please help me out by telling me which wires are connected to which terminal of the socket (center or shell). I'm pulling my hair out, and there is not much left. Any help is appreciated.

Hope this helps.
Orange to the center flasher and the yellow wires are soldered from it. Then blue stripe, green stripe and yellow stripe on the flashers, top to bottom.

I’m in mid tear down. My swapping will probably start this fall.

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#189 1 year ago

Most of the resistors were missing or broken when I bought my game so I only replaced the inner two and left the outer resistors off the boards. That’s the other option when switching to LED flashers.
The LEDs are fantastically blinding. I highly recommend the upgrade.

6 months later
#199 7 months ago

I’ve started my swap. Here’s the link to my restoration thread if anyone is interested in following along:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-reanimation-of-gen-yagov-an-f-14-tomcat-restoration/page/2#post-4659684

4 months later
#204 72 days ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Anyone else having this problem with the buthamburg f-14 playfield? This seems like a major major showstopper and I don't think it's anything I could have screwed up. That's because there is a hole in the playfield for the tnut and holes for the wood side rail. Never was an issue in the old game.
[quoted image]

I thought it was just me, but yes it's a tight squeeze on one out of ten rescues on mine after some adjustments.
I sanded and polished the side rail before I knew there was an issue. After I noticed the problem, I also filed and polished the lane guide down a bit. It helped. I also moved the switch closer to the rescue plunger. It pushes the ball now instead of hitting it.

It's still not perfect, but those are the things I've tried so far.

#206 72 days ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Thanks for chiming in. I'm also upset because I put the screws for the inlane bracket through the
dimples and that wasn't enough clearance on the topside. So now I have two holes in the playfield I need to figure out how to hide.
For the bottom side I'm going to try notching the bracket for the tnut holes and your suggestions

You might want to try opening up the holes on the lane guide first. Those are easy to replace from Cliffy if you mess them up. I’ll look at my t-nuts and see if there is room for adjustment. I’d really like to put the switch back where it was. I like the snappy rescues.

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