F-14 Tomcat playfield swap club


By damageinc55

1 year ago


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  • 182 posts
  • 37 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by SUPERBEE
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders

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There are 182 posts in topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
#151 1 year ago
Quoted from Radius118:

6 months is what it takes for the clear to reach maximum hardness. But if you think they game won't develop dimples because you waited.. well... not gonna happen. There is no way to avoid dimpling.

Yes, dimples are unavoidable. But play enough games on it and they all blend together and are not noticeable. Otherwise install a Playfield Protector on it. It's easy.
Cheers!

#152 1 year ago

Right now I am waiting for a nice day to go outside and sand down the cabinet and backbox right sides. I have a decal set but only want to install them on the right sides. The left sides and front are in such good condition that I can just touch up air brush them. I may be selling the left side and front decals on ebay to recoup some of the money. Not sure if this is a good idea. Any opinions appreciated. Other than that, I'm all done with playfield swap. I replaced over half the light sockets and rebuilt everything. I replaced a lot of those stupid little yellow wires that kept breaking off everything. That's what all the nice bright yellow wires are in the pictures.

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#154 1 year ago

Very nice with the Chrometrim .. looks a little stern´ísh but ... very nice !!

2 months later
#155 10 months ago

Well I finally installed my F-14 decals with the metal leg protectors and the legs still dug into the decals and cut them, but below the protectors.. It appears that they may have cheapened up the leg protectors by making them thinner metal. Had they been thicker, this wouldn't have happened. I bought these protectors from Pinball Life "Metal Cabinet Protectors (set of 4) 535-0599-00" I should have checked closer before tightening them down. But this is B.S. So be warned. The legs are brand new Williams system 11 legs too. Sorry no picture.

#156 10 months ago

Trim the decals around the leg protectors.

#157 10 months ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Well I finally installed my F-14 decals with the metal leg protectors and the legs still dug into the decals and cut them, but below the protectors.. It appears that they may have cheapened up the leg protectors by making them thinner metal. Had they been thicker, this wouldn't have happened. I bought these protectors from Pinball Life "Metal Cabinet Protectors (set of 4) 535-0599-00" I should have checked closer before tightening them down. But this is B.S. So be warned. The legs are brand new Williams system 11 legs too. Sorry no picture.

This is a bummer. Mine wrinkled a bit too.

#158 10 months ago
Quoted from mschonbrun:

Trim the decals around the leg protectors.

Yes, I did trim the decals around the protectors. It wrinkles down lower where the legs touch. If the protectors where thicker this wouldn't happen. The legs dig right into the cabinet.

#159 10 months ago

You could maybe try a felt layer underneath the leg spacer. Just a thought

#160 10 months ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Yes, I did trim the decals around the protectors. It wrinkles down lower where the legs touch. If the protectors where thicker this wouldn't happen. The legs dig right into the cabinet.

That’s such a bummer. Agree with trying felt.

2 weeks later
#161 9 months ago

Ya, too late now. The damage is done. Now I may have blown a chip on MPU board. Stupid ass pop bumper. Oh the pain!

1 month later
#162 7 months ago

Finish project pictures on page 55 of the F14 Tomcat Owners Club thread.
Cheers!

#163 7 months ago

Anyone out there know of an available F-14 play field

2 months later
#165 4 months ago

I have my used PF up in the classified section. Not perfect by any means, but if yours is trashed this is maybe a reasonable alternative, especially with a little TLC..

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/57479

1 month later
#166 85 days ago

Got everything put back together save the clear guards which I'm kinda considering leaving off since they're yellowed badly. Still a lot of work to do as I have no individually addressable lamps, pop bumper, or slings working yet. But, you can play a game on it now which is more than I could say for the past several years.

The repro playfield was worth every penny. It looks amazing and the quality of the art and clear is tops. Few spots where the dimpling was a bit off but that's to be expected for anything with as much variation in production as a pin. Only real disaster I had during the swap was having a spot where two screws met coming from the top and bottom of the PF and I had the one coming down from the top break off... Made a real mess of that to get it cleared out and create a spot to put a small machine screw through to anchor both items together, it's ugly but thankfully under a bunch of other mechs and plastics so I'm the only one who'll know my shame To anyone else making this swap, be careful with the stuff under the bank of flashers mid-playfield on the right side!

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#167 84 days ago

I personally left the clear guards off as well, and I had brand new ones. I think it just looks better without them.

#168 84 days ago

I also left the clear guards off the game when I redid my first one.

#169 84 days ago

Anyone have any tips for adjusting the shooter lane wireform? Since I reinstalled it I'm finding the ball stalls most of the time a few inches into the chute, or will not make it up with enough momentum to round the loop. The way I can get the ball to most consistently enter play is by going really light on the plunger, maybe 1/4 pull, which I can already tell is going to stymie younger and/or impatient players.

I've played other examples that launch more reliably so I know it can be dialed in better than this, wondering if anyone could advise as to what worked for you in that regard.

#170 84 days ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

I personally left the clear guards off as well, and I had brand new ones. I think it just looks better without them.

Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

I also left the clear guards off the game when I redid my first one.

Get these decals for your clear plastics. Trust me, they make the game look amazing !

ebay.com link » Sticker Mod Set Decal For F 14 Tomcat Williams Pinball Machine Lift Off Yagov

#171 84 days ago
Quoted from stumptown:

Anyone have any tips for adjusting the shooter lane wireform?

I had a similar problem. Not sure what was wrong, but I solved it by installing a stronger spring on the shooter rod.

I'm sure I used a workaround, but the ball whips up and around pretty fast which is cool.

#172 84 days ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Get these decals for your clear plastics. Trust me, they make the game look amazing !
ebay.com link » Sticker Mod Set Decal For F 14 Tomcat Williams Pinball Machine Lift Off Yagov

Funny you mention that, my new F-14 had them on there. The guy who owned it before I did put them on. They do look good, but I removed the one over top of the ball diverters in the upper left. I like being able to see the diverters open and close.

#173 81 days ago

I'm about to begin my playfield swap. I have disconnected the playfield connections, and I'm at a loss how to easily remove the playfield from the cabinet.

What is everyone's experience on the best way to remove the playfield, without killing your back or hands? Also, is there anything on the playfield I should remove before removing it?

#174 81 days ago

Don't try to remove it by yourself. You need an extra set of hands. Not hard with 2 people. You can also take the legs off and remove the playfield with the cabinet on the ground. Does make it easier on the back but not really necessary if you ask me. You don't have to remove anything on the playfield before removing it.

#175 79 days ago
Quoted from stumptown:

Anyone have any tips for adjusting the shooter lane wireform? Since I reinstalled it I'm finding the ball stalls most of the time a few inches into the chute, or will not make it up with enough momentum to round the loop. The way I can get the ball to most consistently enter play is by going really light on the plunger, maybe 1/4 pull, which I can already tell is going to stymie younger and/or impatient players.
I've played other examples that launch more reliably so I know it can be dialed in better than this, wondering if anyone could advise as to what worked for you in that regard.

Mine was doing the same thing. You just need to remove the wire form and gently pry it open a little more at the shooter end. When you re-install it make sure to fasten it tightly from the bottom with some washers and locknuts.

2 months later
#176 8 days ago

I'm about to start my playfield swap by placing it into the rotisserie. The question is, do I remove the (6) flash lamp board at the back of the playfield prior to mounting it in the rotisserie, or do I just leave it attached?

#177 3 days ago
Quoted from cletus14:

Mine was doing the same thing. You just need to remove the wire form and gently pry it open a little more at the shooter end. When you re-install it make sure to fasten it tightly from the bottom with some washers and locknuts.

Cross-posting the solution that worked for me (from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/63#post-4231291 pics attached to that post):

It wasn't the ramp at all! I adjusted the position of the shooter lane assembly itself and was able to completely eliminate airballs even with the ramp damaged as it is. It came down to re-positioning the shooter rod to match the alignment of the new PF shooter lane. Before, it was way off to the right and I'm assuming putting some odd spin or bounce on the ball. Once I got it into the position you see here it started launching the ball consistently with no failures or airballs. Before, it was often hitting the right upper part of the wireform or bouncing violently enough to launch into play or onto the top of the wireform ramp. You can see by the paint wear on the cabinet in the pictures how much adjustment it took, around a quarter inch the left from the original position of the shooter assembly. I was able to accomplish this just by loosening the shooter assembly screws and moving it over before retightening them, no drilling required.

#178 2 days ago

Just got my playfield back from Kruzman. It’s throughly buttered. Now to try to not screw it up with my rebuild.

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#179 15 hours ago
Quoted from cletus14:

Just got my playfield back from Kruzman. It’s throughly buttered. Now to try to not screw it up with my rebuild.

Sweet !!! is it fully dimpled ?

#180 15 hours ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Sweet !!! is it fully dimpled ?

No; that comes after the ball hits it... /me ducks

#181 13 hours ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Sweet !!! is it fully dimpled ?

It’s all dimpled from Peter, but i’ll still need to verify and drill every hole on the top side. It’s going to be a painstaking process.

Quoted from mschonbrun:

No; that comes after the ball hits it... /me ducks

#182 13 hours ago
Quoted from cletus14:

It’s all dimpled from Peter, but i’ll still need to verify and drill every hole on the top side. It’s going to be a painstaking process.

Well i recently did a Getaway swap with one of Peters playfeilds and yes, double check the holes as not all were perfect (i think thats normal) but on the bright side, Ive played the shit out of it the last couple of weeks and the clear seems to be holding up great !

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