(Topic ID: 176240)

F-14 Tomcat playfield swap club


By damageinc55

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 192 posts
  • 38 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 33 days ago by lordloss
  • Topic is favorited by 21 Pinsiders

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There are 192 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
#151 1 year ago
Quoted from Radius118:

6 months is what it takes for the clear to reach maximum hardness. But if you think they game won't develop dimples because you waited.. well... not gonna happen. There is no way to avoid dimpling.

Yes, dimples are unavoidable. But play enough games on it and they all blend together and are not noticeable. Otherwise install a Playfield Protector on it. It's easy.
Cheers!

#152 1 year ago

Right now I am waiting for a nice day to go outside and sand down the cabinet and backbox right sides. I have a decal set but only want to install them on the right sides. The left sides and front are in such good condition that I can just touch up air brush them. I may be selling the left side and front decals on ebay to recoup some of the money. Not sure if this is a good idea. Any opinions appreciated. Other than that, I'm all done with playfield swap. I replaced over half the light sockets and rebuilt everything. I replaced a lot of those stupid little yellow wires that kept breaking off everything. That's what all the nice bright yellow wires are in the pictures.

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#154 1 year ago

Very nice with the Chrometrim .. looks a little stern´ísh but ... very nice !!

2 months later
#155 1 year ago

Well I finally installed my F-14 decals with the metal leg protectors and the legs still dug into the decals and cut them, but below the protectors.. It appears that they may have cheapened up the leg protectors by making them thinner metal. Had they been thicker, this wouldn't have happened. I bought these protectors from Pinball Life "Metal Cabinet Protectors (set of 4) 535-0599-00" I should have checked closer before tightening them down. But this is B.S. So be warned. The legs are brand new Williams system 11 legs too. Sorry no picture.

#156 1 year ago

Trim the decals around the leg protectors.

#157 1 year ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Well I finally installed my F-14 decals with the metal leg protectors and the legs still dug into the decals and cut them, but below the protectors.. It appears that they may have cheapened up the leg protectors by making them thinner metal. Had they been thicker, this wouldn't have happened. I bought these protectors from Pinball Life "Metal Cabinet Protectors (set of 4) 535-0599-00" I should have checked closer before tightening them down. But this is B.S. So be warned. The legs are brand new Williams system 11 legs too. Sorry no picture.

This is a bummer. Mine wrinkled a bit too.

#158 1 year ago
Quoted from mschonbrun:

Trim the decals around the leg protectors.

Yes, I did trim the decals around the protectors. It wrinkles down lower where the legs touch. If the protectors where thicker this wouldn't happen. The legs dig right into the cabinet.

#159 1 year ago

You could maybe try a felt layer underneath the leg spacer. Just a thought

#160 1 year ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Yes, I did trim the decals around the protectors. It wrinkles down lower where the legs touch. If the protectors where thicker this wouldn't happen. The legs dig right into the cabinet.

That’s such a bummer. Agree with trying felt.

2 weeks later
#161 1 year ago

Ya, too late now. The damage is done. Now I may have blown a chip on MPU board. Stupid ass pop bumper. Oh the pain!

1 month later
#162 10 months ago

Finish project pictures on page 55 of the F14 Tomcat Owners Club thread.
Cheers!

#163 10 months ago

Anyone out there know of an available F-14 play field

2 months later
#165 7 months ago

I have my used PF up in the classified section. Not perfect by any means, but if yours is trashed this is maybe a reasonable alternative, especially with a little TLC..

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/57479

1 month later
#166 5 months ago

Got everything put back together save the clear guards which I'm kinda considering leaving off since they're yellowed badly. Still a lot of work to do as I have no individually addressable lamps, pop bumper, or slings working yet. But, you can play a game on it now which is more than I could say for the past several years.

The repro playfield was worth every penny. It looks amazing and the quality of the art and clear is tops. Few spots where the dimpling was a bit off but that's to be expected for anything with as much variation in production as a pin. Only real disaster I had during the swap was having a spot where two screws met coming from the top and bottom of the PF and I had the one coming down from the top break off... Made a real mess of that to get it cleared out and create a spot to put a small machine screw through to anchor both items together, it's ugly but thankfully under a bunch of other mechs and plastics so I'm the only one who'll know my shame To anyone else making this swap, be careful with the stuff under the bank of flashers mid-playfield on the right side!

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#167 5 months ago

I personally left the clear guards off as well, and I had brand new ones. I think it just looks better without them.

#168 5 months ago

I also left the clear guards off the game when I redid my first one.

#169 5 months ago

Anyone have any tips for adjusting the shooter lane wireform? Since I reinstalled it I'm finding the ball stalls most of the time a few inches into the chute, or will not make it up with enough momentum to round the loop. The way I can get the ball to most consistently enter play is by going really light on the plunger, maybe 1/4 pull, which I can already tell is going to stymie younger and/or impatient players.

I've played other examples that launch more reliably so I know it can be dialed in better than this, wondering if anyone could advise as to what worked for you in that regard.

#170 5 months ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

I personally left the clear guards off as well, and I had brand new ones. I think it just looks better without them.

Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

I also left the clear guards off the game when I redid my first one.

Get these decals for your clear plastics. Trust me, they make the game look amazing !

ebay.com link » Sticker Mod Set Decal For F 14 Tomcat Williams Pinball Machine Lift Off Yagov

#171 5 months ago
Quoted from stumptown:

Anyone have any tips for adjusting the shooter lane wireform?

I had a similar problem. Not sure what was wrong, but I solved it by installing a stronger spring on the shooter rod.

I'm sure I used a workaround, but the ball whips up and around pretty fast which is cool.

#172 5 months ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Get these decals for your clear plastics. Trust me, they make the game look amazing !
ebay.com link » Sticker Mod Set Decal For F 14 Tomcat Williams Pinball Machine Lift Off Yagov

Funny you mention that, my new F-14 had them on there. The guy who owned it before I did put them on. They do look good, but I removed the one over top of the ball diverters in the upper left. I like being able to see the diverters open and close.

#173 5 months ago

I'm about to begin my playfield swap. I have disconnected the playfield connections, and I'm at a loss how to easily remove the playfield from the cabinet.

What is everyone's experience on the best way to remove the playfield, without killing your back or hands? Also, is there anything on the playfield I should remove before removing it?

#174 5 months ago

Don't try to remove it by yourself. You need an extra set of hands. Not hard with 2 people. You can also take the legs off and remove the playfield with the cabinet on the ground. Does make it easier on the back but not really necessary if you ask me. You don't have to remove anything on the playfield before removing it.

#175 5 months ago
Quoted from stumptown:

Anyone have any tips for adjusting the shooter lane wireform? Since I reinstalled it I'm finding the ball stalls most of the time a few inches into the chute, or will not make it up with enough momentum to round the loop. The way I can get the ball to most consistently enter play is by going really light on the plunger, maybe 1/4 pull, which I can already tell is going to stymie younger and/or impatient players.
I've played other examples that launch more reliably so I know it can be dialed in better than this, wondering if anyone could advise as to what worked for you in that regard.

Mine was doing the same thing. You just need to remove the wire form and gently pry it open a little more at the shooter end. When you re-install it make sure to fasten it tightly from the bottom with some washers and locknuts.

2 months later
#176 3 months ago

I'm about to start my playfield swap by placing it into the rotisserie. The question is, do I remove the (6) flash lamp board at the back of the playfield prior to mounting it in the rotisserie, or do I just leave it attached?

#177 3 months ago
Quoted from cletus14:

Mine was doing the same thing. You just need to remove the wire form and gently pry it open a little more at the shooter end. When you re-install it make sure to fasten it tightly from the bottom with some washers and locknuts.

Cross-posting the solution that worked for me (from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/63#post-4231291 pics attached to that post):

It wasn't the ramp at all! I adjusted the position of the shooter lane assembly itself and was able to completely eliminate airballs even with the ramp damaged as it is. It came down to re-positioning the shooter rod to match the alignment of the new PF shooter lane. Before, it was way off to the right and I'm assuming putting some odd spin or bounce on the ball. Once I got it into the position you see here it started launching the ball consistently with no failures or airballs. Before, it was often hitting the right upper part of the wireform or bouncing violently enough to launch into play or onto the top of the wireform ramp. You can see by the paint wear on the cabinet in the pictures how much adjustment it took, around a quarter inch the left from the original position of the shooter assembly. I was able to accomplish this just by loosening the shooter assembly screws and moving it over before retightening them, no drilling required.

#178 89 days ago

Just got my playfield back from Kruzman. It’s throughly buttered. Now to try to not screw it up with my rebuild.

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#179 87 days ago
Quoted from cletus14:

Just got my playfield back from Kruzman. It’s throughly buttered. Now to try to not screw it up with my rebuild.

Sweet !!! is it fully dimpled ?

#180 87 days ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Sweet !!! is it fully dimpled ?

No; that comes after the ball hits it... /me ducks

#181 87 days ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Sweet !!! is it fully dimpled ?

It’s all dimpled from Peter, but i’ll still need to verify and drill every hole on the top side. It’s going to be a painstaking process.

Quoted from mschonbrun:

No; that comes after the ball hits it... /me ducks

#182 87 days ago
Quoted from cletus14:

It’s all dimpled from Peter, but i’ll still need to verify and drill every hole on the top side. It’s going to be a painstaking process.

Well i recently did a Getaway swap with one of Peters playfeilds and yes, double check the holes as not all were perfect (i think thats normal) but on the bright side, Ive played the shit out of it the last couple of weeks and the clear seems to be holding up great !

#183 86 days ago

Marcos is out of stock of these labels. Is there a trick to remove these labels and reuse them?

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#184 86 days ago

I am with you Cletus! Still have to finish clear coat yet though.

#185 85 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I am with you Cletus! Still have to finish clear coat yet though.

You’re way ahead of me. My cabinet is stil in ruins. I’ll try to catch up though.

2 weeks later
#186 71 days ago

I'm nearing the finish of my playfield swap, and have come to stop. I didn't take close enough pictures during disassembly in the area of flashers 5,6 & 7.

I cannot figure out how these are all interconnected. And then there is a yellow wire that connects all three.

Could someone please help me out by telling me which wires are connected to which terminal of the socket (center or shell). I'm pulling my hair out, and there is not much left. Any help is appreciated.

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#187 70 days ago
Quoted from apc7654:

Could someone please help me out by telling me which wires are connected to which terminal of the socket (center or shell). I'm pulling my hair out, and there is not much left. Any help is appreciated.

Hope this helps.
Orange to the center flasher and the yellow wires are soldered from it. Then blue stripe, green stripe and yellow stripe on the flashers, top to bottom.

I’m in mid tear down. My swapping will probably start this fall.

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#188 70 days ago

Thanks Cletus! That definitely helps. Good luck on your PF swap.

I plan on putting LED flashers in the game, and from what I have read, I just have to disconnect the ground connection on the warming resistor boards.

#189 70 days ago

Most of the resistors were missing or broken when I bought my game so I only replaced the inner two and left the outer resistors off the boards. That’s the other option when switching to LED flashers.
The LEDs are fantastically blinding. I highly recommend the upgrade.

1 week later
#190 62 days ago

Playfield swap is completed, and just have to place it back into the cabinet.

After working with the playfield, I'm wondering what has been everyone's experience with the durability of the clearcoat. Is there any evidence of dimpling due to ball hopping? Does anyone feel that mylar should be installed in high wear areas, like the pop bumper or where the ball is diverted and drops onto the playfield from the lower ramp?

#191 59 days ago
Quoted from apc7654:

Playfield swap is completed, and just have to place it back into the cabinet.
After working with the playfield, I'm wondering what has been everyone's experience with the durability of the clearcoat. Is there any evidence of dimpling due to ball hopping? Does anyone feel that mylar should be installed in high wear areas, like the pop bumper or where the ball is diverted and drops onto the playfield from the lower ramp?

The only thing I've noted on mine so far is an insert that developed a small crack. Nothing as far as dimpling or other damage to the clearcoat. That said I'm considering putting a circle of mylar on that spot you mentioned where the ball drops down from the wireform just as a proactive measure.

3 weeks later
#192 33 days ago

Anyone know what paint color specs would be the best for a re stencil job?

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There are 192 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.

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