(Topic ID: 176240)

F-14 Tomcat playfield swap club


By damageinc55

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 200 posts
  • 41 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 days ago by fissionch1ps
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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There are 200 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
#101 1 year ago

ülease delte

#102 1 year ago

Thank you !!
Problem solved .. I needet the pics to locate all cabled from the flippercoils. Checked several pictures and figured out that a brand new coil is defectice and let the fuse burn.
Used an old coil and everything is working fine.
Now its time to start the cabinett and wait for the new plastics from the US

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#103 1 year ago

Have yall reused the staple down lights? and braiding or gone with new?....if reused how do you remove?

#104 1 year ago

Personally, i'm reusing. I just cut the staples, then restapled on new PF.

#105 1 year ago

They pry up very easily too.

By the way, my swap is nearly complete. I need to order two new posts, and I'll be done. Once the bottom side was done, the top went really fast. I enjoyed the whole process and would definitely get another new playfield someday. Though, I will say, my inserts are already slightly raising on the new one...I guess that's just the clear settling though.

#106 1 year ago
Quoted from shirkle:

They pry up very easily too.
By the way, my swap is nearly complete. I need to order two new posts, and I'll be done. Once the bottom side was done, the top went really fast. I enjoyed the whole process and would definitely get another new playfield someday. Though, I will say, my inserts are already slightly raising on the new one...I guess that's just the clear settling though.

That's concerning, can you post some good pictures of the inserts in question?

#107 1 year ago

Hello to all

Its not the inserts that are raising, it is the clear coat that is settling.
That is normal. The clear coat is gassing out and schrinks.
The Inserts are very firmly glued.
In production it happens often that we have to take out cracked inserts, we have to break
the inserts to get them out.

Regards from Hamburg
Peter
www.buthamburg.de

#108 1 year ago

Yes, thats what it is ... not good but we all have to accept this. Otherwise the playfield should be stored for 10 years, than recoated and stored again.
peters clear is much much better than many many other coatds I saw on repros. Therefor ... not nice with the coat but it is how it is.
Alternate you can use a playfieldprotector on the new playfield.
I like to play on the clearcoat and my machines are there to be played. Can live with taht .

Thanks peter for the great work !!

Quoted from Buthamburg:

Hello to all
Its not the inserts that are raising, it is the clear coat that is settling.
That is normal. The clear coat is gassing out and schrinks.
The Inserts are very firmly glued.
In production it happens often that we have to take out cracked inserts, we have to break
the inserts to get them out.
Regards from Hamburg
Peter
http://www.buthamburg.de

#109 1 year ago

Got my playfield and it looks great. I am putting a light polyurethane coat on the back before I start. After that I plan to get all the T-nuts in. Does anybody have a list of what t-nuts are needed? Are people reusing the old ones? First playfield swap.
Thanks

#110 1 year ago
Quoted from mdclips:

Got my playfield and it looks great. I am putting a light polyurethane coat on the back before I start. After that I plan to get all the T-nuts in. Does anybody have a list of what t-nuts are needed? Are people reusing the old ones? First playfield swap.
Thanks

I reused some of the old ones. The new ones I got off Marco specialties will require you to drill a larger hole. Old ones fit perfect. Just bend the teeth back up straight before you reset them. I also used 30min epoxy on them so they don't come loose.

#111 1 year ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I reused some of the old ones. The new ones I got off Marco specialties will require you to drill a larger hole. Old ones fit perfect. Just bend the teeth back up straight before you reset them. I also used 30min epoxy on them so they don't come loose.

Thanks. Sounds like a good plan.

#112 1 year ago

While waiting for my last couple of parts to arrive to finish it off, I decided to take off the back wooden panel with the 6 flashers and give it a good coat of primer and satin black paint. Looks great now. The original was a very flat black on bare wood and it was just looking dull and dusty in comparison to the new playfield. Only took about 45 minutes, start to finish, and looks so much better. Recommend it!

#113 1 year ago
Quoted from shirkle:

While waiting for my last couple of parts to arrive to finish it off, I decided to take off the back wooden panel with the 6 flashers and give it a good coat of primer and satin black paint. Looks great now. The original was a very flat black on bare wood and it was just looking dull and dusty in comparison to the new playfield. Only took about 45 minutes, start to finish, and looks so much better. Recommend it!

Yes. I did exactly the same thing. I also replaced all the light sockets. 3 of them were bad. It definitely looks much better now!

#114 1 year ago

Are all of the clear plastics even necessary? Like the one over the black diverter ramp?

#115 1 year ago

Uploaded a few pictures. Wanted to show off my progress!

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#116 1 year ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Uploaded a few pictures. Wanted to show off my progress!

Faster than me
Have to wait for new plastics from the US ... but cabinet was clearcoated today ...

#117 1 year ago

So far ....

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#118 1 year ago

Is that a giant Fifth Element Poster on the wall?? I frickin LOVE that movie!

The F14 is looking awesome!!

#119 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Is that a giant Fifth Element Poster on the wall?? I frickin LOVE that movie!
The F14 is looking awesome!!

Yes it is
"Borrowed" it in a cinema ... Uhhh, have to bring it back .. anytime, later, maybe ...
This is my working area .. the gameroom is behind ...

#120 1 year ago

If anyone here has a spare F14 spinner that they don't need, I'd be interested in buying it.

#121 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Yes it is
"Borrowed" it in a cinema ... Uhhh, have to bring it back .. anytime, later, maybe ...
This is my working area .. the gameroom is behind ...

I always thought that would be a great theme for a pinball game, collect the four elements, save Lee-loo, etc. and then save the earth. I'm sure it was too much of a cult hit to actually make it to a game and the license for Bruce Willis' likeness, clips, etc would probably be too expensive but I can still dream. Can you imagine custom Chris Tucker call-outs though?!?!?! Sorry to derail the thread, please keep posting updates on your progress.

#122 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

So far ....

tomdk
I love the look of the black rails and lockdown bar. Id love to see some pictures once it's all back together. I may do mine the same. I did a playfield swap about 12 months ago. I had a nos playfield. I feel for all you guys with early production models. So many lamps. Mine wasn't dimpled either just to add to the fun.

#123 1 year ago

Tom, you do an amzing good job.

#124 1 year ago

Tom- Are those cabinet decals? Where'd you get yours, and how did you go about clearcoating them? Your playfield is looking great- everything looks so polished.

#125 1 year ago

To answer is a row ...

my machine is ready for take off ... just adjusted some siwtches today and it plays greeeeaaattt ... hell of noise and action !

Yes, I like the black powder, so called my F-14 the "black widow" but it was just for cost reduction. I bought the machine as a project with the new playfield bukild together 50% but nothing soldered. The pre-owner became "cold feet" about all the work due it is a early game. Good for me
I had the legs in spare, black podercoated with structure. The lockdownbar was not so nice anymore, same to the siderails. Buying this all
new would be around 250 Euro, powdercoating was around 50 Euro , so this was my reason. But I like it, fits perfect to the F-14. Only have to paint the screwheads in black as well.

This is a original cabinett, no decals. Just the corners from backbox where scratched and some smaller scratches on the cabinet. The red on the front was nearly gone. So I fixed this with painting with cans and airbrush. The result was clearcoated with opaque clear , for the budget done myself not the painter

I got many help from Averell, so I am also waiting for the parts to connect the 4 lamps in the display shield as he dir. Averell also modded his driverboard to get a boost with a little switch that the coils get little more power .. will check this out. I protected the new repro plastics mostly with transparent washers. The beacon motor and the domes are also new parts, the old motor was burned.
All bulbs are replaced with new ones , no LED .. I am oldschool

In it all I have for around 2K EURO a very nice and well playing F-14 with new playfield and plastics. That is what I wanted.

here are some more impressions. Will make later on pixs when the macjhine is in the gameroom and set up correctly.

Cheers and thanks for all your comments !

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#126 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

To answer is a row ...
my machine is ready for take off ... just adjusted some siwtches today and it plays greeeeaaattt ... hell of noise and action !
Yes, I like the black powder, so called my F-14 the "black widow" but it was just for cost reduction. I bought the machine as a project with the new playfield bukild together 50% but nothing soldered. The pre-owner became "cold feet" about all the work due it is a early game. Good for me
I had the legs in spare, black podercoated with structure. The lockdownbar was not so nice anymore, same to the siderails. Buying this all
new would be around 250 Euro, powdercoating was around 50 Euro , so this was my reason. But I like it, fits perfect to the F-14. Only have to paint the screwheads in black as well.
This is a original cabinett, no decals. Just the corners from backbox where scratched and some smaller scratches on the cabinet. The red on the front was nearly gone. So I fixed this with painting with cans and airbrush. The result was clearcoated with opaque clear , for the budget done myself not the painter
I got many help from Averell, so I am also waiting for the parts to connect the 4 lamps in the display shield as he dir. Averell also modded his driverboard to get a boost with a little switch that the coils get little more power .. will check this out. I protected the new repro plastics mostly with transparent washers. The beacon motor and the domes are also new parts, the old motor was burned.
All bulbs are replaced with new ones , no LED .. I am oldschool
In it all I have for around 2K EURO a very nice and well playing F-14 with new playfield and plastics. That is what I wanted.
here are some more impressions. Will make later on pixs when the macjhine is in the gameroom and set up correctly.
Cheers and thanks for all your comments !

That's really nice! I really do like the black trim.....If I were to choose to do mine in any color that's the color I would choose.. Nice!

#127 1 year ago

Man, anyone else finding the last 10% to be the hardest? I feel like i've lost all of my steam.

#128 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Man, anyone else finding the last 10% to be the hardest? I feel like i've lost all of my steam.

Offense go, offense go !!
Yes, there comes a point when you say: I just want to have it playable ! Otherhand isn´t it nice to see the effort on the evening , seing
the machine becoming more and more complete.
And now the hard stuff ... If done ou will find switches not working, ball hangers ......

You will make it !! The result will be a great Sys11 !!

1 week later
#129 1 year ago

Just got my PF from Peter on Friday, it's a 2nd with a couple minor blemishes but wow is it beautiful, the clear coat looks SO good. I'm going to let it sit for several months before I embark on my first PF swap ever but one thing is for sure, I'm going to have to re-finish the cabinet. I thought I could get by with leaving it as is but this PF looks too damn nice to put it in there.

#130 1 year ago

I'm in the same boat. I finished my swap a couple weeks ago, but I can't throw it into an ugly cabinet! This summer the cabinet's going to get some work done to it.

#131 1 year ago

Well I accidentally wired the three 89 flasher sockets on the right side of playfield in reverse polarity (ground to socket pin and hot to socket) and decided to test another 89 socket out on my Sharkey's Pinball machine by connecting it with jumper clips. It still flashes in reverse polarity as well so no need to rewire them. I just made sure sockets were insulated well. I have coin taker LED 89 Super 5 flashers and pinball life LED flashers are supposed to work this way as well according to them.

#132 1 year ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Well I accidentally wired the three 89 flasher sockets on the right side of playfield in reverse polarity (ground to socket pin and hot to socket) and decided to test another 89 socket out on my Sharkey's Pinball machine by connecting it with jumper clips. It still flashes in reverse polarity as well so no need to rewire them. I just made sure sockets were insulated well. I have coin taker LED 89 Super 5 flashers and pinball life LED flashers are supposed to work this way as well according to them.

An incandescent bulbs is never going to care about polarity, LEDs will if they don't have diodes in them to deal with it. I assume you removed your warming resistors to make them work as well. The other thing to watch for is that many games (mine included) have flashers wired in series rather than parallel. I haven't decided if I want to switch it back to the original design per Vic's guide when in do mine.

#133 1 year ago

Yes, incandescent makes no difference. I stated that I am using LED flashers. Mine are wired in parallel. Yes, I removed the warming resistors. They all worked well before the playfield swap. I just wanted to state that Cointaker Super 5 Flasher don't care about polarity. Some older flashers will not work in reverse. Maybe they all do now.
Awesome pinball collection bobukcat!

#134 1 year ago

FYI, I installed a .75mm Makrolon playfield protector from Bay Area Amusements. I bought this back before I got on the list for a new playfield. I was going to use it on my old beat playfield. I discovered that it is fairly easy to blow any particles out that get under it with compressed air. I use 90 PSI. You need some serious air. Not that canned air B.S. Yes, you would have to remove some plastics, but on F-14 it's easy. Just lift up a spot and blow it out. Works great. I guess some machines may be a PITA but not F-14.
Cheers!

#135 1 year ago

Looks like I'm joining the f14 swap club. Picked up a machine that the owner started the swap and got overwhelmed. I basically have a box of parts and a ton of work ahead of me. None of the hardware is labeled and it's all a mess. It will be a couple months before I mess with it, but should be fun.

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#136 1 year ago

I believe you're the second "I give up" swapper.

#137 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

I believe you're the second "I give up" swapper.

I haven't given up......yet. Previous owner did. Based on what I see, I don't think he had a good approach.

#138 1 year ago
Quoted from bflagg:

I haven't given up......yet. Previous owner did. Based on what I see, I don't think he had a good approach

Not referring to you, was referring to the previous owner. How's it going btw, able to make some sense of it?

#139 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Not referring to you, was referring to the previous owner. How's it going btw, able to make some sense of it?

Not yet. I have a Star Pool project I need to finish before I dig into the f-14. Funny thing is I have an F14 now but I'm selling it at Texas Pinball Festival. Would be nice to have one to compare it with. Fortunately most of the bottom parts are still on the old playfield with some of the top moved. The rest are in a box. I have pictures of the topside assy from when I tore down the other one for in depth cleaning etc.

So there is a bright side.... plus many helpful people here if I get stuck.

#140 1 year ago

Peter,
I should have posted this sooner.
I think it would be a good idea to not route the center kicker troughs slots so much after all. Although I was able to push the troughs up to close the gaps, I had to grind off quite a bit of steel off the kicker arms to prevent them form hitting the back of the troughs. This may weaken the arms and caused them to bend easier. Time will tell. But, had the route not been as great, the adjustment would have been simple and no steel would have had to be removed.
Everything else went great!

#141 1 year ago

I created a couple of new instruction cards. I thought I'd share here for anybody that likes them.
Print them edge-to-edge on 4x6 photo paper and just snip off the top with some scissors.

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#142 1 year ago

Very nice !

Wake up forum !! No other guys working on a F-14 playfieldswap ??

#143 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Very nice !
Wake up forum !! No other guys working on a F-14 playfieldswap ??

I'm slowly replacing and/or repairing all of the moving parts and replacing all of the battered targets on my machine.
I'm going to wait the recommended 6 months and then throw a couple of extra coats of clear on my new playfield. I'll share more as the fun happens.

#144 1 year ago

I'm so close to done, it's ridiculous. Life is getting in the way. I have a short issue, I keep blowing the upper playfield GI fuse. Additionally, hitting the upper TOM targets is triggering a ball drain for some strange reason. Have to work out the gremlins, but other than that, I'm there.

#145 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

I keep blowing the upper playfield GI fuse.

Something to check here. I recently did a PF swap in my Fire. I had a short in 1 GI string. It turned out to be one of my staples very near a GI socket. It was on the hot tab of the socket and the staple angled over and touched the socket ground.

#146 1 year ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Something to check here. I recently did a PF swap in my Fire. I had a short in 1 GI string. It turned out to be one of my staples very near a GI socket. It was on the hot tab of the socket and the staple angled over and touched the socket ground.

Good tip, thanks. I have a feeling that might be the issue.

#147 1 year ago
Quoted from cletus14:

I'm slowly replacing and/or repairing all of the moving parts and replacing all of the battered targets on my machine.
I'm going to wait the recommended 6 months and then throw a couple of extra coats of clear on my new playfield. I'll share more as the fun happens.

Hehe ... who tells this with the 6 month ?
I am renovating playfields for more than 10 years, my coating is done by a professionel auto painter with standart quality automotive coat.
If he painted a car, the owner never has to wait 6 month until he can use his car or go to the carwash

inserts can also sink after the 6 month ... and if you coat an other layer ... will you wait an other 6 month because the new coat can also become damaged ?

However .. you will be on the very safe side , thats for sure. My F-14 has now around 250 games with the new playfields, yes ... you see small dimples from the steelball , its a pinball machine ! I could not resist 6 month

#148 1 year ago

This is my first new playfield. I want it to be perfectly smooth and last a lifetime. Six months is what the manufacturer buthamburg recommended:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demand-check-f14-tom-cat/page/8#post-3536738

I want the clearcoat to be as cured as possible before I start throwing ball bearings at it and I have plenty of other renovations to make before I'll be ready to swap anyway.

#149 1 year ago
Quoted from cletus14:

This is my first new playfield. I want it to be perfectly smooth and last a lifetime. Six months is what the manufacturer buthamburg recommended:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demand-check-f14-tom-cat/page/8#post-3536738
I want the clearcoat to be as cured as possible before I start throwing ball bearings at it and I have plenty of other renovations to make before I'll be ready to swap anyway.

6 months is what it takes for the clear to reach maximum hardness. But if you think they game won't develop dimples because you waited.. well... not gonna happen. There is no way to avoid dimpling.

#150 1 year ago

Has anyone with light boards on the underside done the swap yet? Curious how hard it will be since the new PF is dimpled for individual sockets.

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