(Topic ID: 176240)

F-14 Tomcat playfield swap club


By damageinc55

3 years ago



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  • 210 posts
  • 43 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by stumptown
  • Topic is favorited by 28 Pinsiders

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There are 210 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 5.
#51 2 years ago

The gap that my new playfield will have is a lot larger than that of the playfield bobukcat posted above(which honestly doesn't even look like a gap at all). It will be an issue on mine, which is like the one damageinc55 posted in post #29 of this thread. I measured it at about 5mm.

#52 2 years ago

Edit:. Nevermind

IMG_20170122_183032 (resized).jpg

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#53 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

The gap that my new playfield will have is a lot larger than that of the playfield bobukcat posted above

I tested the mech, it doesn't appear to hit the wood (at least the way I mounted it). I'm wondering if in fact I could just move it forward to be flush with the route.

#54 2 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

I tested the mech, it doesn't appear to hit the wood (at least the way I mounted it). I'm wondering if in fact I could just move it forward to be flush with the route.

My photos of the original playfield shows exactly that. It can be slid forward to some degree to close the gap.

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#55 2 years ago

Just looked at mine for a while. If I push them all the way forward the arm will not bash the wood. It gets close, but doesn't actually touch, so that's good. The back of the arm, however, won't get to rest as far back as normal because the back of the channel will push it forward a bit, which I'm not sure is a bad thing or not. I'm considering pushing them all the way flush, and just filing a little bit from the channel to make it work. Probably the easiest solution for me.

#56 2 years ago

Holy hell, am I the only who who snapped the threads off of like 5 of these things?

detail (resized).jpg

#57 2 years ago

You must be dealing with loctite. Not sure if you know what that is, but you need to heat it up first with a soldering iron as close to the threads as you can get. They will come off easily then.
Most people hate loctite. I for one like it. (At least it has it's place)
)

#58 2 years ago

I'm curious as to if people are trying to match the ground braid to the original, or if people are using the newer, flatter kind. Does it even matter? Also, the best staples to use are the ones mentioned earlier in this thread?

Getting ready for a full teardown here soon. Doing it in conjunction with a friend who has two games so the cool thing is we have three PF's for 2 machines so we will always have one fully populated PF for reference.

I'm sure I will be posting often!

#59 2 years ago

I used the original ground braid. I just pulled up the original staples and desoldered it. I then stapled in new bulbs and soldered/stapled the ground braid as I went. I used the staples listed above. They're thicker than the originals, but look good. It all gets buried under so much other stuff that you'll never see it anyway.

Just a heads up to others- I'm wondering if the clearcoat might still be a tad soft. I screwed in my flasher sockets and I didn't think I went overboard screwing them in, but after removing one to reflow solder, I noticed it left a very slight impression in the clear. Also, I've also noticed it softens a little when warmed up- I was using some heat shrink tubing on my flasher sockets and shrinking it with a hairdryer when I noticed the clear felt a little soft. So, just be aware that it might not be 100% yet, in my experiences.

#60 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

used the original ground braid. I just pulled up the original staples and desoldered it.

Same here. There are only a few spots, but I pulled the staples and just transferred over.

#61 2 years ago

Hello to all

Just saw this thread now.
We will see if we can change the milling and the artwork for the next run.
We check it on our playfield, we can push the bracket to the front to make it flush.

Regards from Hamburg
Peter

#62 2 years ago
Quoted from Buthamburg:

Hello to all
Just saw this thread now.
We will see if we can change the milling and the artwork for the next run.
We check it on our playfield, we can push the bracket to the front to make it flush.
Regards from Hamburg
Peter

Hey Peter,
Looks like some originals were milled all the way to the artwork, others not. I'm not sure the next run should be changed. It looks like it will work out just fine moved forward.

#63 2 years ago

hello everyone, building my parts list for my swap, and plan to powder coat the armor for my F14 rebuild. just want to make sure these are the right parts. someone mind taking a quick peak and letting me know if I am headed down the correct road? thanks.

legs - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=868

lockdown bar - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1369

side rails - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2774

also, did someone post a count of t-nuts and their sizes? thank you for all the help! much appreciated.

#64 2 years ago
Quoted from fxdwg:

hello everyone, building my parts list for my swap, and plan to powder coat the armor for my F14 rebuild. just want to make sure these are the right parts. someone mind taking a quick peak and letting me know if I am headed down the correct road? thanks.
legs - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=868
lockdown bar - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1369
side rails - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2774
also, did someone post a count of t-nuts and their sizes? thank you for all the help! much appreciated.

Strike 1,2, and maybe 3

Legs should be the 'short rib' version. WPC legs have the 'full rib'. Its only a cosmetic difference, its up to your taste.

Side rails need to be system 11 that have the flipper button hole in them

Lock down bar - I don't know if system 11 and wpc are interchangeable. If you went with that lockbar, you might have to change the receiver to wpc style (if they are different).

#66 2 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

Strike 1,2, and maybe 3
Legs should be the 'short rib' version. WPC legs have the 'full rib'. Its only a cosmetic difference, its up to your taste.
Side rails need to be system 11 that have the flipper button hole in them
Lock down bar - I don't know if system 11 and wpc are interchangeable. If you went with that lockbar, you might have to change the receiver to wpc style (if they are different).

Lock down bars are interchangeable. Swapped mine between tomcat and WCS and was fine.

#67 2 years ago

Heads up this bar did not get pre drilled holes on the repo field

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#68 2 years ago
Quoted from Wes910:

Heads up this bar did not get pre drilled holes on the repo field

I noticed that. Any tips, or is this just an eyeball it scenario?

#69 2 years ago

I used the post beside it as a guide. I layed a piece of paper on the old pf and traced the 4 holes. Lined up the outer holes with the ones on the new play field and marked the missing holes and drilled them.....If this makes sense...

#70 2 years ago

measure twice drill once

#71 2 years ago

I decided to take the plunge and buy a new PF (I was on the pre-order list but had to drop out for personal reasons, now Peter is hooking me up anyway). I won't be installing it anytime soon but my game does have the light boards so if any of you currently doing a swap have the light boards I'd appreciate details on how you go about addressing that!

#72 2 years ago
Quoted from Wes910:

Heads up this bar did not get pre drilled holes on the repo field

I'm pretty sure that bar is not on early production playfields like the one that Peter used as a template. Mine doesn't have it.

Edit: I take that back. The bar is just missing on my machine. The holes are there. Time to order a bar...

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#73 2 years ago
Quoted from cletus:

I'm pretty sure that bar is not on early production playfields like the one that Peter used as a template. Mine doesn't have it.
Edit: I take that back. The bar is just missing on my machine. The holes are there. Time to order a bar...

I just looked on my later production and that bar is missing on mine too, but has the holes.....is it really necessary since there is a rubber there?

....Edit: I just remembered, There was a ball guide (bar) in my coin box when I bought my machine and I couldn't figure out where it went.....posting a pic of it, is this it?

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#74 2 years ago

Hello to all

Ours war also missing this wire bar, on 2 playfields. We checked out a couple of F-14s and they had the holes, but not the bar.
We decided to leave the holes away. Bronco-Jon your bar doesnt look right, boths side should be straight.

Regards from Hamburg
Peter

#75 2 years ago

Min is a early game with socketed pf lights

#76 2 years ago
Quoted from Buthamburg:

Hello to all
Ours war also missing this wire bar, on 2 playfields. We checked out a couple of F-14s and they had the holes, but not the bar.
We decided to leave the holes away. Bronco-Jon your bar doesnt look right, boths side should be straight.
Regards from Hamburg
Peter

I agree about it should be straight, that's just how I found it when I bought the machine. if it was straight, the down bars would be the same length and the width of it is exactly the same width of the holes in the PF...I really don't think it needs it anyway. I can't imagine why a bar would be right behind a rubber anyway

#77 2 years ago

Today was pretty momentous for me- I'm done soldering! The entire underside of the playfield is back on, and all of the flashers, coils, and the switch that are on top have been soldered and screwed back in place. I polished and re-assembled the trough and got the apron back on. All that's left are the wooden rails, wire-forms, and the plastics and wire guides. I could finish tomorrow, but I need to order ONE freakin' 6-32 post. I thought I already ordered it, but either it got packed wrong or I ordered wrong because I have an 8-32 instead.

As for that wire guide mentioned above, my best guess is that it was meant to prevent balls from getting lodged behind the rubber there (by preventing the ball/rubber from stretching that far). That's all I can come up with.

#78 2 years ago

did your PF have the bar on it?

#79 2 years ago

Yes, mine has it. Mine is a very early game, too, with the prototype roms in it.

#80 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Today was pretty momentous for me- I'm done soldering!

Wow, Congrats! I started on the topside so i'm working on the harness now. So far, i've found my first PF swap to be pretty fun and not nearly as bad as some people make it out to be. Some games are a nightmare though, i'm sure.

#81 2 years ago

Thanks. Yeah, I'm loving doing the swap. I just go down to the gameroom for an hour or so in the evening when my son's gone to sleep and knock out as much as I can. I think it's really fun.

#82 2 years ago

Can someone get in touch with Mr. Toledo so he can come inspect this?

IMG_20170129_203716 (resized).jpg

#83 2 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Can someone get in touch with Mr. Toledo so he can come inspect this?

No need at this time...You got the wrong flipper coil there, (11630 goes on bottom flippers and 11722 goes in top) and your snubber board looks fried too....just sayin

#84 2 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

No need at this time...You got the wrong flipper coil there, (11630 goes on bottom flippers and 11722 goes in top) and your snubber board looks fried too....just sayin

Wow, holy hell. I'm surprised I mixed up the coils. I should take some more inspection photos

I'm pretty sure my board is okay, just a bad photo.

IMG_20170131_101627 (resized).jpg

#85 2 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Wow, holy hell. I'm surprised I mixed up the coils. I should take some more inspection photos
I'm pretty sure my board is okay, just a bad photo.

R1 does look toasty, just like every single one of them were on mine. I put larger power resistors in to replace them as something is clearly inadequate in this design.

#86 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

R1 does look toasty, just like every single one of them were on mine. I put larger power resistors in to replace them as something is clearly inadequate in this design.

All of them are in about this condition. What P/N did you use as a replacement?

#87 2 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

All of them are in about this condition. What P/N did you use as a replacement?

Ask Pinsider "Grumpy", He will know

#88 2 years ago

If anyone else is looking into this see: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-snubber-board-resistor-value

Copy/paste:
What most people did was use a 150 ohm resistor of 2 watts rating to replace the burnt resistor. Williams had drastically undersized the wattage rating and had only used a half watter there.

#89 2 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

If anyone else is looking into this see: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-snubber-board-resistor-value
Copy/paste:
What most people did was use a 150 ohm resistor of 2 watts rating to replace the burnt resistor. Williams had drastically undersized the wattage rating and had only used a half watter there.

Good find, thanks

#90 2 years ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

If anyone else is looking into this see: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-snubber-board-resistor-value
Copy/paste:
What most people did was use a 150 ohm resistor of 2 watts rating to replace the burnt resistor. Williams had drastically undersized the wattage rating and had only used a half watter there.

I couldn't find 150 ohm 2 Watt resistors at any of my usual suppliers but they did have 300 ohm 1W so I used two of them in parallel. Not as clean looking as using a single higher wattage component though.

#91 2 years ago

What am I doing wrong? I installed the spinner, then both roll-under gates/switches in the top loop. Spinner seems to work perfectly, but the two other gates get stuck up in one direction when a ball goes through. They bend the contact underneath so much that it bends all the way until the tip of it gets stuck in the hole. I've tried adjusting, bending, etc., but it still gets stuck.

#92 2 years ago

Does anyone recommend sealing the backside of the new playfield? It seems that it would make it easier to clean in the future. If so what do you use?

#93 2 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

I agree about it should be straight, that's just how I found it when I bought the machine. if it was straight, the down bars would be the same length and the width of it is exactly the same width of the holes in the PF...I really don't think it needs it anyway. I can't imagine why a bar would be right behind a rubber anyway

Hi, my bar was missing when we first got the machine, and balls would quite frequently climb over the rubber, and get trapped where the bar should be! Hope this helps!
Elliott

#94 2 years ago
Quoted from makeittogo:

Does anyone recommend sealing the backside of the new playfield? It seems that it would make it easier to clean in the future. If so what do you use?

Clean the bottom-side in homeuse ?! Mhhh ....

#95 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I couldn't find 150 ohm 2 Watt resistors at any of my usual suppliers but they did have 300 ohm 1W so I used two of them in parallel. Not as clean looking as using a single higher wattage component though.

I ordered these from Mouser.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ERG-2SG151V/?qs=bb%252b1MDm7h6JM9FdKe2bTJQ%3D%3D

#96 2 years ago

I took all the junk I had sitting on top of the playfield glass and removed the glass today to get a game plan on doing my new PF swap.....
I just can't bring myself to do the swap at this time.
The new pf is beautiful I know, but I just can't see doing the swap right now.
the original pf isn't really all that bad at all and it still has all the original maylar on it.
Something I need to think about a bit.
Heres a couple pics of my original still in the machine

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#97 2 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

I took all the junk I had sitting on top of the playfield glass and removed the glass today to get a game plan on doing my new PF swap.....
I just can't bring myself to do the swap at this time.
The new pf is beautiful I know, but I just can't see doing the swap right now.
the original pf isn't really all that bad at all and it still has all the original maylar on it.
Something I need to think about a bit.
Heres a couple pics of my original still in the machine

Just do what the drug companies do. Jack up the price on it 1000 times beyond what it costed you and sell it to someone who desperately needs one.

#98 2 years ago

I bought a project .... F-14 with new playfield. All in parts
Too bad the seller did not picture everything pretty well.
So my question: Can somebody provide me many many pictures from *before*
swapping the playfield. It is like a funny puzzle with thousands of parts.

100_1621 (resized).JPG

#99 2 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Hi - this is a link to a random bunch of photos I took when swapping my F14 playfield, maybe they're of some use....
https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/pinside/Tomcat+Refurb.zip
It's 175Mb, might take a while to download

Try this

#100 2 years ago

I'm working on a getting an old F-14 up and going right now, so if you need pictures of the "original" layout, pm me, and I'll take a pic of whatever you need.

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