(Topic ID: 176240)

F-14 Tomcat playfield swap club


By damageinc55

1 year ago



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  • 198 posts
  • 40 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by SDFworker
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There are 0 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
#1 1 year ago

Around 100 people are due F-14 Tomcat reproduction playfields. Let's discuss our work, questions, and everything else here. Welcome!

#2 1 year ago

Time to build a double-decker rotisserie?

Actually, what is the best way to move everything efficiently from one playfield to another?

Peter said the new F-14 playfields are dimpled for the early production (all lamp socket) playfields. I'm lucky in that respect. The later production (circuit board lamp holder) playfield owners might want to start by redimpling the underside of their playfields.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from cletus14:

Actually, what is the best way to move everything efficiently from one playfield to another?

A three minute hack!

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from dri:

A three minute hack! » YouTube video

This is honestly kind of helpful! Watching the technique and process seems logical.

#5 1 year ago

Does anyone have very detailed photos of the f14? I bought mine it was partly disassembled. Im not sure what hardwhere goes where. Machined vs wood screws in areas. plastic spacer locations..

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Wes910:

Does anyone have very detailed photos of the f14? I bought mine it was partly disassembled. Im not sure what hardwhere goes where. Machined vs wood screws in areas. plastic spacer locations..

I don't have my F-14 anymore, but do have teardown pics of it from shopping it out. PM me your e-mail for pics.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Wes910:

Does anyone have very detailed photos of the f14? I bought mine it was partly disassembled. Im not sure what hardwhere goes where. Machined vs wood screws in areas. plastic spacer locations..

I'll be taking lots and lots and lots of pics as I tear mine down for the swap. I'll post a link up in here when I start doing so.

#8 1 year ago

its been due for 4 years now, any news on this pf?

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from cletus14:

Time to build a double-decker rotisserie?
Actually, what is the best way to move everything efficiently from one playfield to another?
Peter said the new F-14 playfields are dimpled for the early production (all lamp socket) playfields. I'm lucky in that respect. The later production (circuit board lamp holder) playfield owners might want to start by redimpling the underside of their playfields.

Does anyone have a picture of the differences of these? I am curious as to which I have..

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from lordloss:

its been due for 4 years now, any news on this pf?

Mine was delivered this week

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from drjbeyer:

Mine was delivered this week

From what source?

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from drjbeyer:

Does anyone have a picture of the differences of these? I am curious as to which I have..

Early runs have individually socketed #44 bulbs under the inserts. Later runs had circuit boards with 555 bulbs. Check it out here:

Early: https://thepinballreview.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/photo-mar-29-1-07-23-pm.jpg
Later: http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=804&picno=11544

There are other differences as well, but this is the main one concerning the dimples that these new playfields have. Peter used an earlier machine as his template.

#14 1 year ago

Anybody else receive their playfields? Looking for inspiration - I'll be receiving my playfield mid January, and also an F-14 that has a nice cabinet and needs a new playfield. I think I've got my work cut out for me, it'll be my first playfield swap. Advice and tips appreciated!

#15 1 year ago

How many T-Nuts and wich ones do we need?
My old PF is stored in my parents house some a 100 miles away and i would like to order the parts i have to replace next week .
Thank you.

#16 1 year ago

I have an early run machine. No light boards. Many light sockets are soldered to a common ground braid wire, stapled to the bottom of the playfield. I am not going to buy a special stapler. Any suggestions on how to reattach the braid wire?
Thanks

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I have an early run machine. No light boards. Many light sockets are soldered to a common ground braid wire, stapled to the bottom of the playfield. I am not going to buy a special stapler. Any suggestions on how to reattach the braid wire?
Thanks

I was looking at it and kinda wondering the same thing....Is a standard out door staple gun like you hand xmas lights with not ok?

#18 1 year ago

It will work but it will not match the original stapes. The originals are 22 gauge. the standard T50 hand stapler I believe is 18 gauge.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from Wes910:

I was looking at it and kinda wondering the same thing....Is a standard out door staple gun like you hand xmas lights with not ok?

I may install new sockets and wiring for all those with common braid. I would think that you don't want any type of fastener that penetrates the wood more than 1/4".

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#20 1 year ago

.

#21 1 year ago

Anyone start yet? I'm countersunk the holes for the the screws that hold down the wooden rails. I'm hoping to drill some pilot holes and get the GI light stapled in soon. Then it'll be quick moving from there. Mainly waiting on parts.

#22 1 year ago

Let the fun begin!
IMG_20170109_193406 (resized).jpg

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from master_of_chaos:

How many T-Nuts and wich ones do we need?

I'm wondering this as well.

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Let the fun begin!

When did you get your PF?

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

When did you get your PF?

Arrived yesterday.

#26 1 year ago

I have just finished rebuilding all the flipper assemblies per vid's guide (thanks again vid) and unsoldering all the hardware from the harness and labeling the wires and rebuilding all the snubber boards with new R1 resistors and capacitors. Waiting for new flush mount (staple) 44 sockets for lamps. I will not use the old ground braid wire. Next is to rebuild the pop-bumper and then any other moving parts that need it. Make sure to replace the caps on pop-bumper and slings.
I will wash the wiring harness in the dishwasher. I'm sure you know to remove the snubber boards first! You don't want to get water in the relays.
Cheers!

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#27 1 year ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I have just finished rebuilding all the flipper assemblies per vid's guide (thanks again vid) and unsoldering all the hardware from the harness and labeling the wires and rebuilding all the snubber boards with new R1 resistors and capacitors. Waiting for new flush mount (staple) 44 sockets for lamps. I will not use the old ground braid wire. Next is to rebuild the pop-bumper and then any other moving parts that need it. Make sure to replace the caps on pop-bumper and slings.
I will wash the wiring harness in the dishwasher. I'm sure you know to remove the snubber boards first! You don't want to get water in the relays.
Cheers!

Are you going to put stapled down ground braid down on the new PF? I know it would probably be more work, and make the game less original, but I don't think I'd want to solder that many points up against a brand new PF so I'd want to use feature sockets and run ground wires between them all instead. Just curious what the predominate method is when doing a PF swap.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Are you going to put stapled down ground braid down on the new PF? I know it would probably be more work, and make the game less original, but I don't think I'd want to solder that many points up against a brand new PF so I'd want to use feature sockets and run ground wires between them all instead. Just curious what the predominate method is when doing a PF swap.

No, I will use the flush mount lamp sockets and insulated wire. I will staple it with the 1/4" staples listed above. But all the soldering will be done on my bench before it is stapled to playfield. I am going to use the flush mount sockets because it will allow clearance for the wiring harness and other hardware. I think the bracketed sockets would be a problem here.

#29 1 year ago

Found a show stopper. The old pf is flush with the ball locks/kickouts. New pf has a gap that will no doubt blow out if not addressed. Any ideas?

IMG_20170114_092530 (resized).jpg

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#30 1 year ago

I would think some clear epoxy to fill in and level out, then maybe a small piece of removable mylar to go over the area.

I have used 1 side of laminating sheets as a removable mylar, easy to lay in place and easy to peel off later. Instead of an epoxy you could also use a clear super glue to fill in, may be a couple small layers to get to the right height.

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Found a show stopper. The old pf is flush with the ball locks/kickouts. New pf has a gap that will no doubt blow out if not addressed. Any ideas?

Could it be that the original one wasn't routed out properly? Mine was all the way up to the blue and the nos one was the same.

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

#32 1 year ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Could it be that the original one wasn't routed out properly? Mine was all the way up to the blue and the nos one was the same.

Interesting. So your metal kickouts run flush to the blue paint? I have an early production without light boards.

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Interesting. So your metal kickouts run flush to the blue paint? I have an early production without light boards.

Same. Early production. Clear lamps at the back. Flashers hooked up at top targets and proto roms.

#34 1 year ago

This is one of the pictures I used to put mine back together. Not my machine. Maybe off ipdb? But the same out to the blue.

image (resized).png

#35 1 year ago
Quoted from damageinc55:

Found a show stopper. The old pf is flush with the ball locks/kickouts. New pf has a gap that will no doubt blow out if not addressed. Any ideas?

Would have to look at mine but if it is like yours i will be welding in a piece of same thickness sheet metal, than metal finishing it off so it looks like nothing was done to it.

#36 1 year ago

Thanks for the info guys. Looks like I likely have a unique situation here. Curious if it will pop up for anyone else.

#37 1 year ago

I just looked at my original one. Metal kick-outs are flush with the blue too.

#38 1 year ago

Here's a picture from the other side.

image (resized).png

#39 1 year ago

Mine is like damageinc55's playfield. My original was not routed up to the blue, there is a definite gap there. I measured it- it's about 5mm difference, which is a pretty large gap. Mine is also a pretty early production- I have "proto" ROMs and even have the wiring for the flasher bulbs behind the top right targets.

I wonder if Cliffy could make something for the people who were affected. With the metal 6-32 posts on each side of it, and a couple of screws in the ball lock, there are plenty of spaces to hold down a flap or something that would cover that gap. A lot of originals had wear there anyway.

#40 1 year ago

Original playfields were made by 3 different manufacturers....
Move the whole eject bracket to close the gap?
Better put steel posts/rubbers on before the bracket to make a perfect center in between.
Mine is an early production.....
Right Eject (resized).JPG

#41 1 year ago

I looked at moving the whole bracket closer, but the slot for the switch and the kicker holes in the playfield don't line up with the holes in the bracket then, and the kicker would likely bash the wood in front of it because it would be too close. I may have to take a picture to explain better.

#42 1 year ago

Looks like I'll have to fill mine in about 1/8", as my brackets looks shorter also. Will likely put a small Mylar over it, once filled.

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from nightsearcher:

Looks like I'll have to fill mine in about 1/8", as my brackets looks shorter also. Will likely put a small Mylar over it, once filled.

What are you going to use to fill it?

#44 1 year ago

Not sure what I'll use to fill the gap, but likely will install kick out brackets first , mask off playfield. Then fill with some polyurethane high build clearcoat or something else, but worried about using a product that will eat into the clear or not adhere to it at all. My second option will be to have the brackets built up and then file them off to fit

#45 1 year ago

I have a later production and my original PF has a gap in front of the ball kick out.
There is no sign of ball wear in that gap area (between the blue and the wood), however there is slight wear just past the blue, like the ball jumped that "gap" every time.

#46 1 year ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

I have a later production and my original PF has a gap in front of the ball kick out.
There is no sign of ball wear in that gap area (between the blue and the wood), however there is slight wear just past the blue, like the ball jumped that "gap" every time.

Same here - pardon the blurry photo but I don't have the game here right now to take a new picture.

F14 Ball Lock (resized).jpg

#47 1 year ago

Wow. Amazing that those were sold like that. At least they held up better than I would have expected.

#48 1 year ago

Anyone making progress? I've just about finished the underside of the playfield swap. Just have the pop bumper coil and the two ball lock coils left to get in. Waiting on getting a few t-nuts and a couple nails for the pop bumper. After that I'll be on to the topside. I'm not sure I picked the best order to put everything in- some things were really tough to get to when screwing them in.

Still not sure what to do about the gap we were talking about last week.

#49 1 year ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Still not sure what to do about the gap we were talking about last week.

That's something I'm not even gonna worry about. Why would I when It never became or caused an issue on my original from the manufacture that has that gap?

#50 1 year ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

That's something I'm not even gonna worry about. Why would I when It never became or caused an issue on my original from the manufacture that has that gap?

Based on where the damage is in all the pictures I think I would put some mylar down at the eject path to help protect that spot.

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