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That depends on weather you want everyone to see it all the time. Under the apron is for nice and inconspicuous. Or the blue area above the pop if you want to show it off.
You can either remove the outer two resistors or you can remove the black wires from the board.
The #1 terminal = COM on the old switch.
The #2 terminal = NC on the old switch.
The #4 terminal = NO on the old switch.
Glue some magnets to the base then attach to the coil brackets so you can hold wires in place while soldering.
Do you do board work? Big daddy's has a cap kit, but you will still need other parts too.
Start with removing all the connectors to the p/s except the 2 rectangle one on the bottom.
Power on pin and test the following TP1 (left of cement resistor) 5 volt. TP3 12.6 volts TP4 -14.5 volts F-2 fuse both sides 34 volts F-3 fuse both sides @18 volt F-4 fuse both side 34 volts J5 pin 3 -100 volts J5 pin 4 100 volts J5 pin 6 5 volts.
Man your pics are almost as good as zaza's pics. I wish I could make those nice boxes, very helpful!
Quoted from heni1977:
Going to list this as i test, TP (test point)
Fuse 2 42.49V both sides
Fuse 3 19.66V both sides
Fuse 4 42.46V both sides
J5 Pin 3 -103.5
J5 Pin 4 104.6
J5 pin 6 5.062V
Well your power supply is perfect.
Reconnect every thing on the power supply and disconnect the sound board power wire and ribbon cable (11J3, 11J4).
Also disconnect every connector on the cpu except 1J17. Turn on the power and see what the 3 leds are doing now.
You haven't made a mistake that I have seen yet. Unlucky maybe, when the power supply blows up most of the time nothing else happens. Puffdanny had the same thing happen to the power supply on his WW and when the CPU locked up it also locked on a bunch of coils until the fuses burnt. When it was all over he needed the p/s rebuilt, new transistors and diodes on the aux p/s and CPU and a new coil.
Take a good pic of the CPU board. I am not very familiar with RD boards, do they have test switches on the CPU same as Williams boards. It looks as if the CPU is not booting, but I'm not sure what the PIA led is (is it the same as Williams diagnostics) for. I have been lucky so far and still have all original boards in my pins. Was there any manual with the board. I will look for some schematics for this board and see if I can figure it out from them.
Having the ribbon cable reversed would only have garbled the 2 top displays and not caused any damage to any boards. I hope you get your board back soon so progress can resume as this is one of my favorite threads.
Quoted from playernumber4:
I would like to see more than one opinion on this so I do not damage anything. Thanks guys.
That's great, you just raised the value of your property. Now the tax man is gunning for you. No reason that the beacons can't work like this. So in coil test for beacons do you hear a relay in the backbox clicking?
You should check the 4 pin connector before the relay and fuse and see if you have 30 AC on the pair of white/blue wires. This should be powered any time the power is on. Then test the fuse. If both of these are good then remove the relay and look for cracked solder joints on the bottom of the board.
So in your last pic, separate this connector and with the power off test the side without the yellow wires. Pick one of the wht/bl wires and check for continuity to the fuse holder until you find the correct one. Now that you have the wht/bl wire that comes from the fuse attach one of the meter leads to it, turn on the power. Now check for power with the other meter lead on the relay. One of the 2 wht/bl wires should show power any time the machine is on (note the terminal label). If this is good then put it in solenoid test and check the other relay wht/bl wire, when the relay clicks it should show power (note the terminal label).
This is .023 volts. This is just noise, consider this as zero volts.
This sounds good.
Would the same be .023 volts or the 65 volts?
Let's start at the beginning, just off the transformer. A pair of wht/red wires 30.60 volts AC any time power is on. Now the next connector in the back box a pair of wht/red with a pair wht/ blue wire spliced together 30.60 volts AC any time power is on. Up to the relay, clip on to the fuse with one lead and the other on the coil terminal of the relay board 30.73 volts AC any time the power is on. To test the output of the relay you need to move the test lead from the coil terminal to the grd. terminal on the relay board, you need to disconnect the connector going to the motor and place in coil test and lock it on solenoid 16. You will get a pulsing output on your meter if the relay is working. I didn't get a pic of this as I only have two hands. Try this and let us know what you find.
I think that is a spare connector which never had anything connected to it. I would like to recheck the 4 pin connector 2 wht/bl 1 red and 1 brn wire. Check the wht/bl wires on the female side.
Follow those 2 wht/blu wires down and see if they go to the molex connector by the flipper power supply where they are spliced to the wht/red wires.
Ok, you got my curiosity up when I saw this pic. I couldn't think of any reason for Williams to have 30 volts AC going to the play field, so I looked in my pin and found this same connector. I followed it and it only loops back up the the backbox. This pair of white/blue wires are connected thru the play field connector and with the play field not connected this has caused the break in the circuit going up to the replay thus stopping the beacons from turning on. The jumpers that you installed is the same as if the play field is installed, so with the jumpers in the beacon will work again.
A missing coil diode can cause some weird or erratic game behavior. You should check the other coils while the hood is up.
If you don't have a vise right now, then use a small socket on the floor and set the shaft on top of the socket with the pin inside the socket. Then tap the other side of the pin with a hammer until flush, then finish with the punch and hammer.
No, roll pins are hardened and don't drill good.
Your punch isn't hardened, and is very long and thin. So it will bend easy. If you were to cut it off so that the thin part was only 3/4 of an inch you will have no problems finishing this. You should replace the roll pins with new ones during reassembly.
Did you get the diverter off yet? Do you think you can repair it? Or are you going to replace it?
Quoted from heni1977:
Want to test these and make sure they work. Is it possible to do this?
Where would be the best place to get replacement relay cubes if need be?
They seem to be very expensive on Marcos site.
In this pic you have 6 snubber and 1 AC relay. Do not add the cap and resistor to the AC relay as it is not needed and will do damage to the board. I have only seen one relay go bad and it was a GI relay at that, so I wouldn't replace the relays. Now I have seen many problems with the relay boards in general, so rebuilding them is a must. The number one issue is melted header pins but since there is no GI relays in F -14 this is of no concern. The next issue is cracked solder joints on the relay pins, remove and replace the solder and they will be good for another 25 years. Last big issue is the resistors on the snubber relays were a bit undersized so when replacing use a 2 watt version and you will be good.
Quoted from heni1977:
Ok, so what i remember about capacitors one leg is longer noting the pos or neg of cap. Is that correct?
Does it matter on this type of board?
What is the resistor and cap part #? I will probably order from great plains. Should I replace the 12v cubes as well?
I am guessing these are all GI pcb's? The one noted by chipleader is a ac select, what does it operate?
Yes there is a logner lead which is the positive. Most also have a stripe with arrows pointing to the negative lead. And yes it very important to install any electrolytic caps in the correct orientation otherwise they will explode.
I think the resistors needed are 150 ohm 2 watt.
The relays are 24 volt DC relays not 12 volt.
The GI relay is on your power supply, these are snubber relays and one AC relay and are not interchangeable which out some some modifications. The AC relay allows the CPU board to control 16 separate circuits with only 8 control transistors. This is why the first 8 solenoid circuits are labeled 1 a and the 1 c and so on. The a side is usually 50 volt circuits and the c side is usually 25 volt circuits.
Yes they are right, but don't forget some new diodes too. Use some 1n4007.
No the diodes don't go bad very often, but if you have the board removed you might as well change them.
I have never seen that brand before so I am just going by what I read in the ad. Has everything it should have and 85% of the reviews liked it. Its cheap for sure. Time will tell if it was going to last. But how long does it need to last for a 130.00 dollars. Your call on this, its your money.
I did my window wells and my back patio in landscaping blocks. Lots of hard work, but we'll worth it.
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