You need some leg levelers.

Yea it looks 1000x better then my cabinet. Don't sweat the small stuff.

I have fallen, but I got up!

Looking good!

No cup holder on F -14!

What do I win?

Or one is not a space theme.
Winner winner chicken dinner!

That depends on weather you want everyone to see it all the time. Under the apron is for nice and inconspicuous. Or the blue area above the pop if you want to show it off.

You had some flashers that weren't working for sure.

You can either remove the outer two resistors or you can remove the black wires from the board.

The #1 terminal = COM on the old switch.
The #2 terminal = NC on the old switch.
The #4 terminal = NO on the old switch.

pasted_image (resized).png

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjCtfngwKjXAhUICGkKHc3OD7kYABAOGgJpcQ&sig=AOD64_1FT--yVgj9wAQXyJy47IwPO6zGpA&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwizx_HgwKjXAhWL24MKHTTQDrYQww8ILg&adurl=

Glue some magnets to the base then attach to the coil brackets so you can hold wires in place while soldering.

Yep and yep.

Looked like you had a low 5 volt causing the CPU to lock up. Now that the fuses are blown I would check the bridge on the P/S for a short. Is this an original or aftermarket board?

I just looked back and see its an original and that it hasn't been rebuilt.

Do you do board work? Big daddy's has a cap kit, but you will still need other parts too.

BR1, D1 thru D6, IC1, Q-5, R1, R4, R13 and J-8 GI connector.
If you leave the game on for 12 hours a day then change ZR2 and ZR4 to the 90 volt version.

I left out the kitchen sink.

Start with removing all the connectors to the p/s except the 2 rectangle one on the bottom.

Power on pin and test the following TP1 (left of cement resistor) 5 volt. TP3 12.6 volts TP4 -14.5 volts F-2 fuse both sides 34 volts F-3 fuse both sides @18 volt F-4 fuse both side 34 volts J5 pin 3 -100 volts J5 pin 4 100 volts J5 pin 6 5 volts.

Man your pics are almost as good as zaza's pics. I wish I could make those nice boxes, very helpful!

pasted_image (resized).png

Well your power supply is perfect.
Reconnect every thing on the power supply and disconnect the sound board power wire and ribbon cable (11J3, 11J4).
Also disconnect every connector on the cpu except 1J17. Turn on the power and see what the 3 leds are doing now.

You haven't made a mistake that I have seen yet. Unlucky maybe, when the power supply blows up most of the time nothing else happens. Puffdanny had the same thing happen to the power supply on his WW and when the CPU locked up it also locked on a bunch of coils until the fuses burnt. When it was all over he needed the p/s rebuilt, new transistors and diodes on the aux p/s and CPU and a new coil.

Take a good pic of the CPU board. I am not very familiar with RD boards, do they have test switches on the CPU same as Williams boards. It looks as if the CPU is not booting, but I'm not sure what the PIA led is (is it the same as Williams diagnostics) for. I have been lucky so far and still have all original boards in my pins. Was there any manual with the board. I will look for some schematics for this board and see if I can figure it out from them.

Having the ribbon cable reversed would only have garbled the 2 top displays and not caused any damage to any boards. I hope you get your board back soon so progress can resume as this is one of my favorite threads.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-fire-club/page/3#post-2340409

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-system-11-display-problem#post-3078089

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swords-of-fury-sfx-and-voice-but-no-music-display-garbled#post-760693

That's great, you just raised the value of your property. Now the tax man is gunning for you. No reason that the beacons can't work like this. So in coil test for beacons do you hear a relay in the backbox clicking?

You should check the 4 pin connector before the relay and fuse and see if you have 30 AC on the pair of white/blue wires. This should be powered any time the power is on. Then test the fuse. If both of these are good then remove the relay and look for cracked solder joints on the bottom of the board.

Just DO IT!

I would put a wood block under the rail, then put a blue bar on top of the wood block followed by another wood block on top of the blue bar. Then lightly pry a little on each side until it works itself up and out.

pasted_image (resized).png

Good to see some movement here.

Life sure gets in the way of fun!

When in beacon test does the relay click or not?

So in your last pic, separate this connector and with the power off test the side without the yellow wires. Pick one of the wht/bl wires and check for continuity to the fuse holder until you find the correct one. Now that you have the wht/bl wire that comes from the fuse attach one of the meter leads to it, turn on the power. Now check for power with the other meter lead on the relay. One of the 2 wht/bl wires should show power any time the machine is on (note the terminal label). If this is good then put it in solenoid test and check the other relay wht/bl wire, when the relay clicks it should show power (note the terminal label).

This is .023 volts. This is just noise, consider this as zero volts.

This sounds good.

Would the same be .023 volts or the 65 volts?

Something not adding up here, replace the fuse and retest.

Let's start at the beginning, just off the transformer. A pair of wht/red wires 30.60 volts AC any time power is on. Now the next connector in the back box a pair of wht/red with a pair wht/ blue wire spliced together 30.60 volts AC any time power is on. Up to the relay, clip on to the fuse with one lead and the other on the coil terminal of the relay board 30.73 volts AC any time the power is on. To test the output of the relay you need to move the test lead from the coil terminal to the grd. terminal on the relay board, you need to disconnect the connector going to the motor and place in coil test and lock it on solenoid 16. You will get a pulsing output on your meter if the relay is working. I didn't get a pic of this as I only have two hands. Try this and let us know what you find.

IMG_20180409_194150 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180409_193412 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180409_192944 (resized).jpg

Damm my pics are backwards again!

Go back to this connector and retest with a test lead on each of the wht/bl wires.

heni (resized).jpg

I'm not following this, can you show me a pic.

That doesn't look like a good idea.

I think that is a spare connector which never had anything connected to it. I would like to recheck the 4 pin connector 2 wht/bl 1 red and 1 brn wire. Check the wht/bl wires on the female side.

Follow those 2 wht/blu wires down and see if they go to the molex connector by the flipper power supply where they are spliced to the wht/red wires.

Ok, you got my curiosity up when I saw this pic. I couldn't think of any reason for Williams to have 30 volts AC going to the play field, so I looked in my pin and found this same connector. I followed it and it only loops back up the the backbox. This pair of white/blue wires are connected thru the play field connector and with the play field not connected this has caused the break in the circuit going up to the replay thus stopping the beacons from turning on. The jumpers that you installed is the same as if the play field is installed, so with the jumpers in the beacon will work again.

pasted_image (resized).png

Keep moving forward.

Soon you will play again!

You need to add a diode from the grey yellow wire to the middle lug with the band toward the grey yellow wire and the the loose green wire goes with the black blue wire.

A missing coil diode can cause some weird or erratic game behavior. You should check the other coils while the hood is up.

Me too!

Never leave home without them.

Probably enough to get in trouble, why whats up?

Sounds like you have it all under control.

That just sucks! Keep your head up and move forward.

It is this kind of crap that makes me only want to do decals.

Just wear shades!

heni1977 your alive!!

And yes I know this answer, but Bellagio beat me to it. ^^^^^^^

Put the assembly on top of a vise, open the vise just enough for the pin to fit between the jaws. Start tapping with a hammer until the pin is flush with the shaft, then use the correct size punch and tap it thru the shaft.

If you don't have a vise right now, then use a small socket on the floor and set the shaft on top of the socket with the pin inside the socket. Then tap the other side of the pin with a hammer until flush, then finish with the punch and hammer.

No, roll pins are hardened and don't drill good.

Your punch isn't hardened, and is very long and thin. So it will bend easy. If you were to cut it off so that the thin part was only 3/4 of an inch you will have no problems finishing this. You should replace the roll pins with new ones during reassembly.

WOW!

Nice towel!!! I haven't seen one like that for fifty years.

Did you get the diverter off yet? Do you think you can repair it? Or are you going to replace it?

Yep, they are getting hard to find. If you were not able to find one for sale I was going to send you my spare.
Keep marching forward!

In this pic you have 6 snubber and 1 AC relay. Do not add the cap and resistor to the AC relay as it is not needed and will do damage to the board. I have only seen one relay go bad and it was a GI relay at that, so I wouldn't replace the relays. Now I have seen many problems with the relay boards in general, so rebuilding them is a must. The number one issue is melted header pins but since there is no GI relays in F -14 this is of no concern. The next issue is cracked solder joints on the relay pins, remove and replace the solder and they will be good for another 25 years. Last big issue is the resistors on the snubber relays were a bit undersized so when replacing use a 2 watt version and you will be good.

Yes there is a logner lead which is the positive. Most also have a stripe with arrows pointing to the negative lead. And yes it very important to install any electrolytic caps in the correct orientation otherwise they will explode.
I think the resistors needed are 150 ohm 2 watt.
The relays are 24 volt DC relays not 12 volt.
The GI relay is on your power supply, these are snubber relays and one AC relay and are not interchangeable which out some some modifications. The AC relay allows the CPU board to control 16 separate circuits with only 8 control transistors. This is why the first 8 solenoid circuits are labeled 1 a and the 1 c and so on. The a side is usually 50 volt circuits and the c side is usually 25 volt circuits.

The board is marked with a plus symbol for the correct orientation.

Yes they are right, but don't forget some new diodes too. Use some 1n4007.

No the diodes don't go bad very often, but if you have the board removed you might as well change them.

I have never seen that brand before so I am just going by what I read in the ad. Has everything it should have and 85% of the reviews liked it. Its cheap for sure. Time will tell if it was going to last. But how long does it need to last for a 130.00 dollars. Your call on this, its your money.

Not true, if used incorrectly these will lift traces in a heart beat. Always heat the lead and not the trace and you will be fine.

?

I did my window wells and my back patio in landscaping blocks. Lots of hard work, but we'll worth it.

Just do it!

WOW you know the legend.

Remember the big picture, It will all be worth it in the end.

Playball!!

This drop of DNA could be what solves the stolen pin case of the future. Much better than the serial number as they can be reproduced.

As Jessie once said you ain't got time to bleed, you got to playball!

+1 for the big right hand draino.

This is a good number for the 2 white kill targets. But not the other 18 targets. I will need to look at my machine tonight to find out what the differences are.

Basically any diode will work for the lamps. I use 1n4007 diodes as I can use the same diode for coils and lamps.

heni1977 the only thing that I can see that makes these switches different is a heat shrink tubing on all of them except the 2 kill targets. The switches with the heat shrink have lamp sockets in between the switches. Very close quarters and the heat shrink will insulate the switch matrix from GI AC voltage. I would just buy the switches you listed for all of them and then apply your own heat shrink to them.

Some people actually pay money to exercise, you got a good workout for free! Looking good sir.

I say yes!