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(Topic ID: 172113)

F-14 resto

By heni1977

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 307 posts
  • 33 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by heni1977
  • Topic is favorited by 42 Pinsiders


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#44 3 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Any one notice the problem with this picture.

You need some leg levelers.

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Any one notice the problem with this picture

Yea it looks 1000x better then my cabinet. Don't sweat the small stuff.

1 week later
#50 3 years ago

I have fallen, but I got up!

Looking good!

1 week later
#60 3 years ago

No cup holder on F -14!

What do I win?

#63 3 years ago

Or one is not a space theme.
Winner winner chicken dinner!

1 week later
#70 3 years ago

That depends on weather you want everyone to see it all the time. Under the apron is for nice and inconspicuous. Or the blue area above the pop if you want to show it off.

#76 3 years ago

You had some flashers that weren't working for sure.

#78 3 years ago

You can either remove the outer two resistors or you can remove the black wires from the board.

3 weeks later
#89 3 years ago

The #1 terminal = COM on the old switch.
The #2 terminal = NC on the old switch.
The #4 terminal = NO on the old switch.

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#92 3 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Am i correct in thinking i will need to install diodes and will the 1N4007 work?

Yep and yep.

#99 3 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Ok 7A fuses at F5,6 on power supply blown.

Looked like you had a low 5 volt causing the CPU to lock up. Now that the fuses are blown I would check the bridge on the P/S for a short. Is this an original or aftermarket board?

#100 3 years ago

I just looked back and see its an original and that it hasn't been rebuilt.

#102 3 years ago

Do you do board work? Big daddy's has a cap kit, but you will still need other parts too.

#106 3 years ago
Quoted from cletus:

What "other" parts are typically recommended?

BR1, D1 thru D6, IC1, Q-5, R1, R4, R13 and J-8 GI connector.
If you leave the game on for 12 hours a day then change ZR2 and ZR4 to the 90 volt version.

#109 3 years ago

I left out the kitchen sink.

1 month later
#111 2 years ago

Start with removing all the connectors to the p/s except the 2 rectangle one on the bottom.

#112 2 years ago

Power on pin and test the following TP1 (left of cement resistor) 5 volt. TP3 12.6 volts TP4 -14.5 volts F-2 fuse both sides 34 volts F-3 fuse both sides @18 volt F-4 fuse both side 34 volts J5 pin 3 -100 volts J5 pin 4 100 volts J5 pin 6 5 volts.

#118 2 years ago

Man your pics are almost as good as zaza's pics. I wish I could make those nice boxes, very helpful!

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#119 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Going to list this as i test, TP (test point)
TP1 5.062V
TP3 14.60V
TP4 -14.94V
Fuse 2 42.49V both sides
Fuse 3 19.66V both sides
Fuse 4 42.46V both sides
J5 Pin 3 -103.5
J5 Pin 4 104.6
J5 pin 6 5.062V

Well your power supply is perfect.
Reconnect every thing on the power supply and disconnect the sound board power wire and ribbon cable (11J3, 11J4).
Also disconnect every connector on the cpu except 1J17. Turn on the power and see what the 3 leds are doing now.

#120 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

And hopefully they won’t make the same mistakes I have.

You haven't made a mistake that I have seen yet. Unlucky maybe, when the power supply blows up most of the time nothing else happens. Puffdanny had the same thing happen to the power supply on his WW and when the CPU locked up it also locked on a bunch of coils until the fuses burnt. When it was all over he needed the p/s rebuilt, new transistors and diodes on the aux p/s and CPU and a new coil.

#125 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

+5V and PIA light still on. No blinking just solid.

Take a good pic of the CPU board. I am not very familiar with RD boards, do they have test switches on the CPU same as Williams boards. It looks as if the CPU is not booting, but I'm not sure what the PIA led is (is it the same as Williams diagnostics) for. I have been lucky so far and still have all original boards in my pins. Was there any manual with the board. I will look for some schematics for this board and see if I can figure it out from them.

1 month later
#136 2 years ago

Having the ribbon cable reversed would only have garbled the 2 top displays and not caused any damage to any boards. I hope you get your board back soon so progress can resume as this is one of my favorite threads.

1 week later
#146 2 years ago

That's great, you just raised the value of your property. Now the tax man is gunning for you. No reason that the beacons can't work like this. So in coil test for beacons do you hear a relay in the backbox clicking?

#149 2 years ago

You should check the 4 pin connector before the relay and fuse and see if you have 30 AC on the pair of white/blue wires. This should be powered any time the power is on. Then test the fuse. If both of these are good then remove the relay and look for cracked solder joints on the bottom of the board.

1 week later
#152 2 years ago

Just DO IT!

2 weeks later
#160 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Ideas on getting these rails out of PF?

I would put a wood block under the rail, then put a blue bar on top of the wood block followed by another wood block on top of the blue bar. Then lightly pry a little on each side until it works itself up and out.

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1 month later
#168 2 years ago

Good to see some movement here.

Life sure gets in the way of fun!

#171 2 years ago

When in beacon test does the relay click or not?

#175 2 years ago

So in your last pic, separate this connector and with the power off test the side without the yellow wires. Pick one of the wht/bl wires and check for continuity to the fuse holder until you find the correct one. Now that you have the wht/bl wire that comes from the fuse attach one of the meter leads to it, turn on the power. Now check for power with the other meter lead on the relay. One of the 2 wht/bl wires should show power any time the machine is on (note the terminal label). If this is good then put it in solenoid test and check the other relay wht/bl wire, when the relay clicks it should show power (note the terminal label).

#177 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

So the side that says coil is showing 21 to 23v

This is .023 volts. This is just noise, consider this as zero volts.

Quoted from heni1977:And GND is showing 65v both of these not in test.

This sounds good.

Quoted from heni1977:In test it shows
Coil side shows the same in test.

Would the same be .023 volts or the 65 volts?

#179 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Not in test
Coil shows .023 GND shows .065
In test
Coil shows .023 GND fluctuates between.065 and .067

Something not adding up here, replace the fuse and retest.

#181 2 years ago

Let's start at the beginning, just off the transformer. A pair of wht/red wires 30.60 volts AC any time power is on. Now the next connector in the back box a pair of wht/red with a pair wht/ blue wire spliced together 30.60 volts AC any time power is on. Up to the relay, clip on to the fuse with one lead and the other on the coil terminal of the relay board 30.73 volts AC any time the power is on. To test the output of the relay you need to move the test lead from the coil terminal to the grd. terminal on the relay board, you need to disconnect the connector going to the motor and place in coil test and lock it on solenoid 16. You will get a pulsing output on your meter if the relay is working. I didn't get a pic of this as I only have two hands. Try this and let us know what you find.

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#184 2 years ago

Damm my pics are backwards again!

#189 2 years ago

Go back to this connector and retest with a test lead on each of the wht/bl wires.

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#195 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Jumpered that harness to the large black connector

I'm not following this, can you show me a pic.

#197 2 years ago

That doesn't look like a good idea.

#199 2 years ago

I think that is a spare connector which never had anything connected to it. I would like to recheck the 4 pin connector 2 wht/bl 1 red and 1 brn wire. Check the wht/bl wires on the female side.

#202 2 years ago

Follow those 2 wht/blu wires down and see if they go to the molex connector by the flipper power supply where they are spliced to the wht/red wires.

#203 2 years ago

Ok, you got my curiosity up when I saw this pic. I couldn't think of any reason for Williams to have 30 volts AC going to the play field, so I looked in my pin and found this same connector. I followed it and it only loops back up the the backbox. This pair of white/blue wires are connected thru the play field connector and with the play field not connected this has caused the break in the circuit going up to the replay thus stopping the beacons from turning on. The jumpers that you installed is the same as if the play field is installed, so with the jumpers in the beacon will work again.

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#205 2 years ago

Keep moving forward.

Soon you will play again!

#207 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Want to get a game in!!!!

You need to add a diode from the grey yellow wire to the middle lug with the band toward the grey yellow wire and the the loose green wire goes with the black blue wire.

#209 2 years ago

A missing coil diode can cause some weird or erratic game behavior. You should check the other coils while the hood is up.

#211 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I think I enjoy working on them as much as playing them sometimes!

Me too!

Quoted from heni1977:

Did not notice diode till I was already gone.

Never leave home without them.

1 month later
#212 2 years ago

#214 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

What do you know about hot tubs?

Probably enough to get in trouble, why whats up?

#216 2 years ago

Sounds like you have it all under control.

1 month later
#219 2 years ago

That just sucks! Keep your head up and move forward.

#223 2 years ago
Quoted from cletus:

The yellow mask pulled a bunch of my red paint right off the box.

It is this kind of crap that makes me only want to do decals.

#226 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I will do it!!!!!!!

#229 2 years ago

Just wear shades!

3 weeks later
#235 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Grumpy I know you know this!

heni1977 your alive!!

And yes I know this answer, but Bellagio beat me to it. ^^^^^^^

2 weeks later
#239 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Suggestions on getting this last pin out?

Put the assembly on top of a vise, open the vise just enough for the pin to fit between the jaws. Start tapping with a hammer until the pin is flush with the shaft, then use the correct size punch and tap it thru the shaft.

#241 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:Just another excuse to buy a small vise!

If you don't have a vise right now, then use a small socket on the floor and set the shaft on top of the socket with the pin inside the socket. Then tap the other side of the pin with a hammer until flush, then finish with the punch and hammer.

#243 2 years ago

No, roll pins are hardened and don't drill good.

Quoted from heni1977:

But it’s bending my punch now.

Your punch isn't hardened, and is very long and thin. So it will bend easy. If you were to cut it off so that the thin part was only 3/4 of an inch you will have no problems finishing this. You should replace the roll pins with new ones during reassembly.

#246 2 years ago


#251 2 years ago

Nice towel!!! I haven't seen one like that for fifty years.

#253 2 years ago

Did you get the diverter off yet? Do you think you can repair it? Or are you going to replace it?

#256 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Notice the new diverter?

Yep, they are getting hard to find. If you were not able to find one for sale I was going to send you my spare.
Keep marching forward!

1 month later
#267 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Want to test these and make sure they work. Is it possible to do this?
Where would be the best place to get replacement relay cubes if need be?
They seem to be very expensive on Marcos site.
[quoted image]

In this pic you have 6 snubber and 1 AC relay. Do not add the cap and resistor to the AC relay as it is not needed and will do damage to the board. I have only seen one relay go bad and it was a GI relay at that, so I wouldn't replace the relays. Now I have seen many problems with the relay boards in general, so rebuilding them is a must. The number one issue is melted header pins but since there is no GI relays in F -14 this is of no concern. The next issue is cracked solder joints on the relay pins, remove and replace the solder and they will be good for another 25 years. Last big issue is the resistors on the snubber relays were a bit undersized so when replacing use a 2 watt version and you will be good.

#268 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Ok, so what i remember about capacitors one leg is longer noting the pos or neg of cap. Is that correct?
Does it matter on this type of board?
What is the resistor and cap part #? I will probably order from great plains. Should I replace the 12v cubes as well?
I am guessing these are all GI pcb's? The one noted by chipleader is a ac select, what does it operate?

Yes there is a logner lead which is the positive. Most also have a stripe with arrows pointing to the negative lead. And yes it very important to install any electrolytic caps in the correct orientation otherwise they will explode.
I think the resistors needed are 150 ohm 2 watt.
The relays are 24 volt DC relays not 12 volt.
The GI relay is on your power supply, these are snubber relays and one AC relay and are not interchangeable which out some some modifications. The AC relay allows the CPU board to control 16 separate circuits with only 8 control transistors. This is why the first 8 solenoid circuits are labeled 1 a and the 1 c and so on. The a side is usually 50 volt circuits and the c side is usually 25 volt circuits.

#270 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I will de solder a board tonight and see if I can tell which leg of cap goes were.

The board is marked with a plus symbol for the correct orientation.

#274 2 years ago

No the diodes don't go bad very often, but if you have the board removed you might as well change them.

1 week later
#279 1 year ago

I have never seen that brand before so I am just going by what I read in the ad. Has everything it should have and 85% of the reviews liked it. Its cheap for sure. Time will tell if it was going to last. But how long does it need to last for a 130.00 dollars. Your call on this, its your money.

#281 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Quicker and won't have as much worry about lifting traces.

Not true, if used incorrectly these will lift traces in a heart beat. Always heat the lead and not the trace and you will be fine.

10 months later
#292 1 year ago
Quoted from cletus:

Yes! Finally!
I’m almost ready to do my second restoration on my F-14.


3 months later
#300 10 months ago

I did my window wells and my back patio in landscaping blocks. Lots of hard work, but we'll worth it.

7 months later
#303 81 days ago

Just do it!

2 months later
#305 8 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Vid1900 did a Awesome job

WOW you know the legend.

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