(Topic ID: 172113)

F-14 resto


By heni1977

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 282 posts
  • 30 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by heni1977
  • Topic is favorited by 32 Pinsiders

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There are 282 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.
#251 85 days ago

Nice towel!!! I haven't seen one like that for fifty years.

#252 85 days ago

Hahaha, I honestly don’t know where it came from.

#253 84 days ago

Did you get the diverter off yet? Do you think you can repair it? Or are you going to replace it?

#254 84 days ago

Replace it! Cut the bent end off. Will order a new one.

#255 80 days ago

Yep, chillin to Pink Floyd! Working on some plastics!
Notice the new diverter.

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#256 80 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Notice the new diverter?

Yep, they are getting hard to find. If you were not able to find one for sale I was going to send you my spare.
Keep marching forward!

1 week later
#257 67 days ago

Wife went out with the ladies from work. So I am working on putting diverter back together.
Also got a tumbler and did most of pf parts and lots of screws.

#258 67 days ago

Done.

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1 month later
#259 21 days ago

Ok in it goes!
The one relay board concerns me with the solder covering two traces like that.
Anybody think the same?

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#260 21 days ago

That's the A/C select Relay, those are supposed to be soldered together.

#261 21 days ago

Yikes!

#262 21 days ago

Ok,Thanks! Was wondering never seen anything like it before.

#263 21 days ago

Worked great!

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#264 20 days ago

Want to test these and make sure they work. Is it possible to do this?
Where would be the best place to get replacement relay cubes if need be?
They seem to be very expensive on Marcos site.

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#265 20 days ago

I replaced the capacitors and resistors on mine. The 1/4 watt resistors on every single one of mine were fried extra crispy. My capacitors were originally radial as opposed to the axial type you have. Here’s the thread I read through when I rebuilt mine:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-snubber-board-resistor-value

The pic is of one of my boards after the upgrades.

Edit: That’s a 2-watt flame proof resistor as kenlayton suggested using.

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#266 20 days ago

Ok, so what i remember about capacitors one leg is longer noting the pos or neg of cap. Is that correct?
Does it matter on this type of board?
What is the resistor and cap part #? I will probably order from great plains. Should I replace the 24V cubes as well?
The one noted by chipleader is a ac select, what does it operate?

#267 20 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Want to test these and make sure they work. Is it possible to do this?
Where would be the best place to get replacement relay cubes if need be?
They seem to be very expensive on Marcos site.
[quoted image]

In this pic you have 6 snubber and 1 AC relay. Do not add the cap and resistor to the AC relay as it is not needed and will do damage to the board. I have only seen one relay go bad and it was a GI relay at that, so I wouldn't replace the relays. Now I have seen many problems with the relay boards in general, so rebuilding them is a must. The number one issue is melted header pins but since there is no GI relays in F -14 this is of no concern. The next issue is cracked solder joints on the relay pins, remove and replace the solder and they will be good for another 25 years. Last big issue is the resistors on the snubber relays were a bit undersized so when replacing use a 2 watt version and you will be good.

#268 20 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Ok, so what i remember about capacitors one leg is longer noting the pos or neg of cap. Is that correct?
Does it matter on this type of board?
What is the resistor and cap part #? I will probably order from great plains. Should I replace the 12v cubes as well?
I am guessing these are all GI pcb's? The one noted by chipleader is a ac select, what does it operate?

Yes there is a logner lead which is the positive. Most also have a stripe with arrows pointing to the negative lead. And yes it very important to install any electrolytic caps in the correct orientation otherwise they will explode.
I think the resistors needed are 150 ohm 2 watt.
The relays are 24 volt DC relays not 12 volt.
The GI relay is on your power supply, these are snubber relays and one AC relay and are not interchangeable which out some some modifications. The AC relay allows the CPU board to control 16 separate circuits with only 8 control transistors. This is why the first 8 solenoid circuits are labeled 1 a and the 1 c and so on. The a side is usually 50 volt circuits and the c side is usually 25 volt circuits.

#269 20 days ago

Ok, will follow advice on changing the caps and resistors only.
cletus14 do you have the part numbers for these and where you got them?
I will de solder a board tonight and see if I can tell which leg of cap goes were.

#270 20 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I will de solder a board tonight and see if I can tell which leg of cap goes were.

The board is marked with a plus symbol for the correct orientation.

#273 20 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes they are right, but don't forget some new diodes too. Use some 1n4007.

I’m not sure where I got the parts. I did this a couple of years ago when I first got my machine. I can look.

Are diodes something that typically goes bad. I guess I should do some more soldering. grumpy you’re always adding to my to do list.

#274 20 days ago

No the diodes don't go bad very often, but if you have the board removed you might as well change them.

#275 20 days ago

Sweet, I got some of those diodes bought extras last time!

#276 19 days ago

I ordered my caps and resistors from NTE electronics as they had both in stock. I ordered 20 each because I like to have extras, you never know when you will need them. Plus my buddy has a F-14 and his could use them too!

#277 19 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

The little set of rivets came from pinrestore which I think is closing

NOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I love PinRestore! Even bought one of their in-house made rivet presses!!
NOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1 week later
#278 10 days ago

grumpy what do you think of this?
amazon.com link »

#279 10 days ago

I have never seen that brand before so I am just going by what I read in the ad. Has everything it should have and 85% of the reviews liked it. Its cheap for sure. Time will tell if it was going to last. But how long does it need to last for a 130.00 dollars. Your call on this, its your money.

#280 10 days ago

I went for it. Will post on its usability. I did see the good reviews and watched a couple youtubes on it. A little noisy but what can you expect at that price. I really needed something though, the old desoldering pump had to go!! Will still work for some things and great for a small tool to have in tool box. But for circuit boards it is a must. Quicker and won't have as much worry about lifting traces.

#281 10 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Quicker and won't have as much worry about lifting traces.

Not true, if used incorrectly these will lift traces in a heart beat. Always heat the lead and not the trace and you will be fine.

1 week later
#282 3 days ago

Rebuilding snubbed boards. Desolder gun works well, but will bump it to 700 next time. Feel more confident now with it, And per grumpy.Going to rebuild my buddy’s PS and install a nvram on his F-14 eventually.

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There are 282 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.

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