F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987I didn’t either, but was expecting it!!
Ok removed jumpered wiring. Here is the retest.
I will take a pic of pf wiring harness tomorrow. So you can see what you think. But it looks as if it loops back around and into that harness. It does have two wht/bl wires coming out of it.
Follow those 2 wht/blu wires down and see if they go to the molex connector by the flipper power supply where they are spliced to the wht/red wires.
Ok, you got my curiosity up when I saw this pic. I couldn't think of any reason for Williams to have 30 volts AC going to the play field, so I looked in my pin and found this same connector. I followed it and it only loops back up the the backbox. This pair of white/blue wires are connected thru the play field connector and with the play field not connected this has caused the break in the circuit going up to the replay thus stopping the beacons from turning on. The jumpers that you installed is the same as if the play field is installed, so with the jumpers in the beacon will work again.
Cool! I was thinking that was the case. I am going to hold off on beacons until the pf is back in. I have the second coat of clear on and sanded. Now I have to do the filling of low spots, then Install water slide decals and clear again.
It will take some time to rebuild pf. Since it was never dimpled.
Quoted from heni1977:Want to get a game in!!!!
You need to add a diode from the grey yellow wire to the middle lug with the band toward the grey yellow wire and the the loose green wire goes with the black blue wire.
A missing coil diode can cause some weird or erratic game behavior. You should check the other coils while the hood is up.
Will check next week.
Cleaned leaf switches and played a couple games. Did not notice diode till I was already gone. Will fix it and rebuild pop bumper next week.
I think I enjoy working on them as much as playing them sometimes!
Good catch Grumpy!
Quoted from heni1977:I think I enjoy working on them as much as playing them sometimes!
Me too! 
Quoted from heni1977:Did not notice diode till I was already gone.
Never leave home without them.
Quoted from heni1977:What do you know about hot tubs?
Probably enough to get in trouble, why whats up?
Oh , I just have a leak I am trying to hunt down. Think I got the issue solved last night but will see when I get home from work! Have a Solana tx and pulled the bottom off after draining then put up on blocks and refilled half way to find leak. While doing this I noticed the drain valve was loose so that might have been the issue the whole time. Also fixed the heater yesterday as well. I HOPE!!!!
So, I got back to working on PF. Well lets just say I F#$%ed up.
When I was wet sanding the low spots that I filled in, following vids guide. I was not paying attention enough, and wet sanded through the clear and into the paint (will post pics). I believe I should have put a heavier layer of clear on and should have been paying more attention!!! I will be sending it off to be fixed as it is out of my depth now and I would like to have it done properly!
I will continue working on rebuilding the GI boards under the PF for the time being and cleaning switches and wiring on the harness under PF.
Like I said in the first comment of this thread, I hope people learn from my mistakes!!!!! 
Quoted from heni1977:So, I got back to working on PF. Well lets just say I F#$%ed up.
That totally sucks Heni!!! Did you choose where you’re going to send it out to?
Just to show you that I kind of know how you feel, I didn’t wait long enough before putting the yellow layer when stenciling my cab last night. The yellow mask pulled a bunch of my red paint right off the box. I am going out right now to attempt a fix.
Quoted from cletus:The yellow mask pulled a bunch of my red paint right off the box
Damn, that sucks! As Grumpy said,
Quoted from GRUMPY:Keep your head up and move forward.
Quoted from heni1977:Damn, that sucks! As Grumpy said,
@grumpy is the least grumpy guy on pinside.
Quoted from cletus:The yellow mask pulled a bunch of my red paint right off the box.
It is this kind of crap that makes me only want to do decals.
Quoted from heni1977:Desolder and replace these old ones with new. Just the two inside ones will be replaced. Outsides will be removed.
Just a couple hacks here!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Are you planning to do a full upgrade to LED flashers? I did mine and it is insanely blinding and I love it regardless of what the haters say.
Quoted from heni1977:Yes I am going full blinding! Was thinking of using the the frosted for inserts first to see how they look.
I tried almost every type of bulb on mine.
I used Comet’s 2SMD fluted dome bulbs in every single socket. Matrix and general illumination.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smdfd.htm
I used Comet retrobrites for my white inserts because the 2SMD bulbs were too much especially in the kill targets.
http://www.cometpinball.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=1RETROLED
I recommend the cool white for this game because the plastics are mostly blue and the cool white really makes them pop.
Edit: Also, make sure to color match insert with bulb color. I prefer yellow bulbs under amber inserts.
Quoted from heni1977:Anyone know the right caps to buy for flipper switch stacks?
Grumpy I know you know this!
[quoted image]
I believe it’s these .1 uF 500v discs. You can probably get them cheaper from Digikey or Mouser.
Quoted from heni1977:Grumpy I know you know this!
heni1977 your alive!!
And yes I know this answer, but Bellagio beat me to it. ^^^^^^^
Quoted from heni1977:Suggestions on getting this last pin out?
Put the assembly on top of a vise, open the vise just enough for the pin to fit between the jaws. Start tapping with a hammer until the pin is flush with the shaft, then use the correct size punch and tap it thru the shaft.
Quoted from heni1977:Just another excuse to buy a small vise!
If you don't have a vise right now, then use a small socket on the floor and set the shaft on top of the socket with the pin inside the socket. Then tap the other side of the pin with a hammer until flush, then finish with the punch and hammer.
Quoted from heni1977:Drill?
No, roll pins are hardened and don't drill good.
Quoted from heni1977:But it’s bending my punch now.
Your punch isn't hardened, and is very long and thin. So it will bend easy. If you were to cut it off so that the thin part was only 3/4 of an inch you will have no problems finishing this. You should replace the roll pins with new ones during reassembly.
This is the tool I use for my plastics. It has worked like a champ. Used it for space station plastics and still going strong. I suggest it, I wish I could remember where I got it from. The little set of rivets came from pinrestore which I think is closing 
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Decatur, IL
Keep your head up and move forward.
