(Topic ID: 172113)
Linked Games
F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
Topic Gallery
Decatur, IL
2 weeks later
Newmarket, ON
Quoted from heni1977:Ideas on getting these rails out of PF?
I have plastic pry tools that work pretty good. Here is a pic of what they look like, stick a rag underneath so you dont dent or scratch the playfield. I think they sell them at harbour frieght but have not used theirs.
Quoted from heni1977:Ideas on getting these rails out of PF?
I would put a wood block under the rail, then put a blue bar on top of the wood block followed by another wood block on top of the blue bar. Then lightly pry a little on each side until it works itself up and out.
Joe,
One games i have done, I have taken the rails off and then took them to one of the cabinet shops here in town and had brand new ones made. Your redoing everything on this, might as well do it all, lol. Ill give you a few places to try if you want
1 month later
So it’s been a little over a month since I last posted. Been busy with work and honey do list.
So I have time today and I am going to put another coat of clear on PF.
A couple pics for a update.
I cleaned paint booth up again just to make sure I don’t get any contamination.
Wiring harness is off and just a few things left on old PF.
79A5FF6D-1CD2-4D52-8919-845DCCB08229 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from SUPERBEE:You ever thought about sanding down the back of the playfield while you have the chance
The one I am clear coating now is a NOS that I purchased. The other one will be sanded down and gotten ready for a hard top when they come out. Hopefully!!!
Quoted from GRUMPY:You should check the 4 pin connector before the relay and fuse and see if you have 30 AC on the pair of white/blue wires. This should be powered any time the power is on. Then test the fuse. If both of these are good then remove the relay and look for cracked solder joints on the bottom of the board
Working on getting the beacons working today. Then later will do some fill in on the pf.
Getting wierd readings though.
I was too lazy to take pictures and document my restoration. Now I am kicking my self. Next time I might do a time lapse vid. 
So in your last pic, separate this connector and with the power off test the side without the yellow wires. Pick one of the wht/bl wires and check for continuity to the fuse holder until you find the correct one. Now that you have the wht/bl wire that comes from the fuse attach one of the meter leads to it, turn on the power. Now check for power with the other meter lead on the relay. One of the 2 wht/bl wires should show power any time the machine is on (note the terminal label). If this is good then put it in solenoid test and check the other relay wht/bl wire, when the relay clicks it should show power (note the terminal label).
Quoted from heni1977:So the side that says coil is showing 21 to 23v
This is .023 volts. This is just noise, consider this as zero volts.
Quoted from heni1977:And GND is showing 65v both of these not in test.
This sounds good.
Quoted from heni1977:In test it shows
Coil side shows the same in test.
Would the same be .023 volts or the 65 volts?
Quoted from heni1977:Not in test
Coil shows .023 GND shows .065
In test
Coil shows .023 GND fluctuates between.065 and .067
Something not adding up here, replace the fuse and retest.
Let's start at the beginning, just off the transformer. A pair of wht/red wires 30.60 volts AC any time power is on. Now the next connector in the back box a pair of wht/red with a pair wht/ blue wire spliced together 30.60 volts AC any time power is on. Up to the relay, clip on to the fuse with one lead and the other on the coil terminal of the relay board 30.73 volts AC any time the power is on. To test the output of the relay you need to move the test lead from the coil terminal to the grd. terminal on the relay board, you need to disconnect the connector going to the motor and place in coil test and lock it on solenoid 16. You will get a pulsing output on your meter if the relay is working. I didn't get a pic of this as I only have two hands. Try this and let us know what you find.
IMG_20180409_194150 (resized).jpg
Quoted from dudah:Any plans to Retrobrite the "clear" dome?
Someone in this thread tried it and he says it does not work on clear pastics. Worst, it can make them milky.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/UhHpNoLcEAM
Once I get my beacons going I will decide if I want to go with a different clear dome. I like to think that the yellowed dome kind of gives it some nostalgia. Where would I be able to find a clear one? And not the white one that marco sells.
Quoted from heni1977:Where would I be able to find a clear one? And not the white one that marco sells.
https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=63&search=Clear+dome
I bought all three domes from pinball Inc. They are perfect.
Ok. Jumpered that harness to the large black connector and now I get the 30v at the wht/bl 4 pin at relay. Tested the clip on fuse and to coil on relay board and get zero.
Went and looked at pf harness and it looked like it doubled back. So I jumpered it.
Quoted from heni1977:Jumpered that harness to the large black connector
I'm not following this, can you show me a pic.
I think that is a spare connector which never had anything connected to it. I would like to recheck the 4 pin connector 2 wht/bl 1 red and 1 brn wire. Check the wht/bl wires on the female side.
Quoted from GRUMPY:That doesn't look like a good idea.
This is a reply i never want from Grumpy ! 
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