Do you do board work? Big daddy's has a cap kit, but you will still need other parts too.

What "other" parts are typically recommended? I rebuilt my power supply with the BigDaddy cap kit. I'm ready to bulletproof and upgrade further.

I'm running a few laps behind heni1977 with my F-14 teardown and rebuild. I may start a restoration thread after this one wraps up.

BR1, D1 thru D6, IC1, Q-5, R1, R4, R13 and J-8 GI connector.
If you leave the game on for 12 hours a day then change ZR2 and ZR4 to the 90 volt version.

Haha. Wow. So pretty much everything?

I left out the kitchen sink.

Start with removing all the connectors to the p/s except the 2 rectangle one on the bottom.

Power on pin and test the following TP1 (left of cement resistor) 5 volt. TP3 12.6 volts TP4 -14.5 volts F-2 fuse both sides 34 volts F-3 fuse both sides @18 volt F-4 fuse both side 34 volts J5 pin 3 -100 volts J5 pin 4 100 volts J5 pin 6 5 volts.

I was in the same boat as you (new to diagnosing these problems). Grumpy was an invaluable help, so I'll copy/paste his advice to me for how to test the voltages:

"Use a DMM to test the DC outputs. Set DMM to DC 200 volts and stick black lead under the ground braid and use the red lead for testing."

I've put red boxes around the test points. Test point 1(TP1) is in the top box, and test points 2-4 are in the bottom box. The orange box has the two connectors to leave connected. I'm not sure which fuse is which, but you may have a fuse chart in the head that will show you which fuses are F2, F3, and F4.

Good luck!

F14 Power Board-edit (resized).jpg

Man your pics are almost as good as zaza's pics. I wish I could make those nice boxes, very helpful!

pasted_image (resized).png

Well your power supply is perfect.
Reconnect every thing on the power supply and disconnect the sound board power wire and ribbon cable (11J3, 11J4).
Also disconnect every connector on the cpu except 1J17. Turn on the power and see what the 3 leds are doing now.

You haven't made a mistake that I have seen yet. Unlucky maybe, when the power supply blows up most of the time nothing else happens. Puffdanny had the same thing happen to the power supply on his WW and when the CPU locked up it also locked on a bunch of coils until the fuses burnt. When it was all over he needed the p/s rebuilt, new transistors and diodes on the aux p/s and CPU and a new coil.

Any plans to Retrobrite the "clear" dome?

Thanks! The boxes are pretty simple. You can even do them using Microsoft Paint.

Take a good pic of the CPU board. I am not very familiar with RD boards, do they have test switches on the CPU same as Williams boards. It looks as if the CPU is not booting, but I'm not sure what the PIA led is (is it the same as Williams diagnostics) for. I have been lucky so far and still have all original boards in my pins. Was there any manual with the board. I will look for some schematics for this board and see if I can figure it out from them.

For electronics troubleshooting, I would check the drive transistors if any are shorted 0 ohms. Also I would check the diodes across the coils, they also blow shorted.

I completely agree !!

It is funny, what makes sense today seems silly tomorrow. That, or people just get lazy.

My garage isn't insulated either, it's driving me crazy.

To the OP:

Are you sure you have not flipped over the ribbon cable that goes to the display on one end? I thought that cable should have stayed with the red trace on the right side of your display when in its vertical position. Someone please correct me if I am wrong because I have my rottendog display out for repair right now after having board repairs done that caused an over voltage situation and probably damaged my board. Unfortunately I did not take a picture of that cable before taking things apart and when I reassembled it with the trace on the right side of both plugs I still had display issues similar to before I started doing the repairs. I would love to know that I have it 100% correct when I reinstall it after the repair.

I am referring to the pic in post #65

Having the ribbon cable reversed would only have garbled the 2 top displays and not caused any damage to any boards. I hope you get your board back soon so progress can resume as this is one of my favorite threads.

What about on the display? Does the red tracer go on the right side also or to the left as in the other pic? I would like to see more than one opinion on this so I do not damage anything. Thanks guys.

I just found a pic from an archived one for sale that showed the red trace on the ribbon cable to be on the right side at both ends.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-fire-club/page/3#post-2340409

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-system-11-display-problem#post-3078089

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swords-of-fury-sfx-and-voice-but-no-music-display-garbled#post-760693

This is my line of work. I hope you went back with Felt and Ice & Water Shield under the shingles.

Slapnuts you are correct. I spoke to rottendog and they said the red trace of the ribbon is on the right side of the mainboard, and on the left side of the display. He said if its wired up backwords the top row of displays is jibberish and the bottom row is fine.

Thank you.

That's great, you just raised the value of your property. Now the tax man is gunning for you. No reason that the beacons can't work like this. So in coil test for beacons do you hear a relay in the backbox clicking?

You should check the 4 pin connector before the relay and fuse and see if you have 30 AC on the pair of white/blue wires. This should be powered any time the power is on. Then test the fuse. If both of these are good then remove the relay and look for cracked solder joints on the bottom of the board.