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(Topic ID: 102841)

F-14 Pop Bumper Problems


By Ed731

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 69 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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Pop Bumper schematic.jpg
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There are 69 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago

ZR5 diode is not shorted.
I like the idea of using A TIP102 and a fuse. However, I am still concerned of stress on this transistor. Are there any heat issues using this setup?

I like the idea of using a later model driver board even better. Does anybody have any suggestions on part numbers to use for this?

Someone that worked on this machine had no clue what they were doing. I found the snubber board for flasher 7 flashers wired completely wrong and used a C-12232-1 instead of a C-11232. This makes 3 things so far with this machine wired completely wrong!

I really appreciate everyone's help!
-Chris

#52 3 years ago
Quoted from 87xr:

I like the idea of using A TIP102 and a fuse. However, I am still concerned of stress on this transistor.

There is no problems using a tip 102 in place of a tip 122. I would not suggest anything that has not been proven to work 100%. That being said I also would not change any tip 122 to tip 102 if there are working properly now, wait until they blow up first.

Quoted from 87xr:I like the idea of using a later model driver board even better. Does anybody have any suggestions on part numbers to use for this?

Get your machine 100% first then if you still want to do this I will show you how.

Quoted from 87xr:Someone that worked on this machine had no clue what they were doing.

This 95% of all repairs that I fix.

#53 3 years ago

Lets recap here..
1. Both switches on the pop are open and the skirt moves freely and pops back to center.
2. Coil has 4 ohms resistance and a good diode installed the correct way.
3. Coil sleeve isn't melted and plunger moves up/down freely.
4. With connector 1J19 removed, connector 1J18 pin 4 measures 5 volts when game is on and in attract mode, then measures 0 volts when the skirt is pressed.
5. With power off and connector 1J19 removed, pin 6 reads open to ground on an ohm meter.
6. If all of this passes the test then there is a board problem.

#54 3 years ago

I like the idea of using a TIP32C circuit and 50v feed a lot!
I have a C-13509 High Current Driver board from a WPC I am thinking about using. I have a few questions for those that have already done this..

Can I drive the TIP36C directly off of Q69 TIP122 without anything in between but a fuse?
(I am adding a fuse to keep it from eating itself in case of failure)
Should I swap out the TIP122 with a TIP102 to match how the WPC boards trigger the board or is a TIP122 sufficient?
Where is a recommended place to pull the 50v?

-Chris

#55 3 years ago

Grumpy, I will get back to this machine in the next few days.

Steps 1 - 3 all pass.
Steps 4 & 5 I will reconfirm with the new TIP122 that I installed and have not yet put back in the machine.
Step 6 - Don't you mean if all tests pass, there is NOT a board problem?

Thank you again for the assistance!
-Chris

#56 3 years ago
Quoted from 87xr:

Don't you mean if all tests pass, there is NOT a board problem?

No, if it passes the tests and it is overheating the tip there is some leakage current on the board that is partially turning on the tip.

Quoted from 87xr:Steps 4 & 5 I will reconfirm with the new TIP122 that I installed and have not yet put back in the machine.

If there was a board problem it maybe fixed now as the tests were to be done before board work. Now that the board is out you may as well replace the predriver too.

Lastly if you want to add the high current driver to power the pop, wait until all problems with the pop are corrected first.

2 weeks later
#57 3 years ago

Just to give an update.. I have not gotten back to the pop bumper problem. I have been fixing other problems found with the machine first. I will give an update once I get back to this problem.

Chris

#58 3 years ago

Grumpy is the man.
That dam zr5.. lol.
I want my pop bumper to be stronger.. lol

#59 3 years ago

Grumpy is the most patient guy to wall threw problems on here..
Good dude...

#60 3 years ago

My pal eerie eric loves my f14 so much he got it tattooed.. lol

IMG_20170307_234855 (resized).jpg

#61 3 years ago

IMG_20170307_221255 (resized).jpg

#62 3 years ago

He better get the American pilot on his other bicep.....

3 weeks later
#64 3 years ago

Just got f14 with same problems

#65 3 years ago

Yeah looks right my issue is i replaced q69 q49 still have column 2 out. If i hit right flipper couple times in a row it sometimes regesters in switch test same with tilt everthing else in column is out. Any ideas?

#66 3 years ago

Heres a picture of switch doesnt seem right

20170503_171544 (resized).jpg

1 year later
#67 1 year ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Heres a picture of switch doesnt seem right

It is not!... that switch setup is for a EM pop bumper not an SS pop bumper.
WTF, no cup spoon??? Ouch!

1 year later
#68 4 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Lets recap here..
1. Both switches on the pop are open and the skirt moves freely and pops back to center.
2. Coil has 4 ohms resistance and a good diode installed the correct way.
3. Coil sleeve isn't melted and plunger moves up/down freely.
4. With connector 1J19 removed, connector 1J18 pin 4 measures 5 volts when game is on and in attract mode, then measures 0 volts when the skirt is pressed.
5. With power off and connector 1J19 removed, pin 6 reads open to ground on an ohm meter.
6. If all of this passes the test then there is a board problem.

Hey Grumpy - I didn’t have the exact problem described here but your posts help me get to the bottom of some similar shit happening on my Space Shuttle - much obliged

#69 4 months ago
Quoted from AlonzoMoselyFBI:

Hey Grumpy - I didn’t have the exact problem described here but your posts help me get to the bottom of some similar shit happening on my Space Shuttle - much obliged

Glad it helped.

Playball!!

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There are 69 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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