Is there a diode on the coil and is is hooked up correctly? Is the coil firing in the coil test mode? Make sure you remove the fuse to test .

I'd double check the wiring on the coil (per chad's advice) and confirm you installed the switch correctly.

Also, make sure the switch is correctly gapped, but do NOT hold it closed. Even if it's hooked up correctly, you will short the circuit and burn up the transistors on the board. Do your slingshots work? Remember, it's best to work on the pop bumper with the machine turned off or else you risk shorting a lot of electronic components on the control boards, which is very easy to do!

did the old one work?

I'm wondering if the transistors associated with pop bumper are at fault.

Ed731, read through this thread where I received help for a dead pop on my F-14.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/and-the-game-room-smelled-like-a-forest-fire-f-14

Vid1900 has created a great pop bumper rebuild walk through. It save me in the past and might help

http://www.performancepinball.com/rebuilding-pop-bumpers.html

Nevermind...someone else covered it...

Check the thread I pasted above your last comments...read through it and you'll be able to identify the transistor.

Don't try to make a fix on your own unless you've had some experience working on boards. If you don't have experience, find an old clock radio or cd player and rip out their boards...and practice. Practice on those before you attempt a fix. Otherwise, you can pull your board and send it to someone for repair. Chris Hibler is a great guy to approach for repairs. He's here on pinside and is reliable.

Voltage is present at both terminals of the coil until the switch is closed.

It's Q69 (Jet Bumper). Handy on page 1 of your manual in the solenoid table.

Coil Test to Make sure Coil is Good.
Here's another method of testing coils, which is more "low-level". This will test if the coil itself is good, and that there is power at the coil.

Game is on and in "attract" mode, and the playfield lifted.
Connect an alligator clip to the metal side rail of the game.
Momentarily touch the other end of the alligator clip to the GROUND lead of the coil in question. This will be the coil lug with the single (thinner) wire attached. On coils with a diode, the ground coil lug is the one with the non-banded side of the diode connected. On FL11630 flipper coils F-14 Tomcat and later, touch the middle lug to ground.
The coil should fire (if you accidentally touch the alligator clip to the power side of the coil, the game will reset and/or blow a fuse, as you are shorting solenoid high voltage directly to ground).
If the coil does not fire, it may be a coil that is A/C relay selected. Push the center red coin door button down, and press the black button closest to the coin door. This will put the game in diagnostics mode. This should de-energize the solenoid A/C relay, and turn the power to the coil in question on.
If the coil still does not fire, either the coil itself is bad, or the coil's fuse is blown and power to the coil is not present.

Then:
A Coil doesn't Work, What To Do.
The following procedures will start at the coil, and work back to the CPU board, testing components. This will eliminate things and make finding the problem easier.

Testing for Power at the Coil.
Most pinball games (including system 11) have power at each and every coil at all times. To activate a coil, GROUND is turned on momentarily by the driving transistor to complete the power path. Since only ground (and not power) is turned on and off, the driving transistors have less stress on them. With this in mind, if we artificially attach a coil to ground, it will fire (assuming the game is turned on and in attract mode).

Turn the game on and leave it in "attract" mode.
Lift the playfield.
Put your DMM on DC voltage (100 volts or greater).
Attach the black lead of your DMM to the metal side rail.
Touch the red lead of your DMM on either/both/all lugs of the coil in question.
You should get a reading of 25 to 80 volts DC. Switch your red test lead to the other lug of the coil, and you should get the same voltage again. On flipper coils, test all the lugs of the coil for power. If you don't get any voltage reading, no power is getting to the coil. If you don't get power at all lugs, then you have a broken winding on the coil itself. Replace the coil or fix it (if the winding is an outside winding, you can remove the paper label and unwrap a turn of wire, sand the insulation off, and resolder the coil winding to the lug).
If no power is getting to the coil at any lug, it may be a coil that is A/C relay selected. Push the center red coin door button down, and press the black button closest to the coin door. This will put the game in diagnostics mode. This should de-energize the solenoid A/C relay, and turn the power to the coil in question on. If there is still no power, put an aligator clip on the metal tab of transistor Q7 (Fire! and before) or Q8 (Big Guns or later) to activate the solenoid A/C relay, and retest for power at the coil again.
A broken solenoid A/C relay can cause power to not get to a coil. But this will affect more than one coil. Cold solder joints on the A/C relay-to-board solder pads can do this too.
If no power is getting to the coil, a wire is may be broken somewhere. Trace the power wire. Remember, the power wires are "daisy-chained" together. So if there is a break in the wire at a previous coil, the coils down stream will not get power.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html

Did you check F2 on the power supply board?

Playfield solenoids: pop bumper and slingshots.

You might want to cut the wires off the coil, and one end of the diode, check diode to make sure its good, and the coil, then turn on power, if fuse doesn't blow check for power at the wires that are disconnected if you have power make sure you solder that wire to the banded side of the diode.

Yes, and for good measure (because I am thinking this still the pop that is the problem child here) disconnect power from each sling coil. Eliminate them from the picture. Once you get the pop fixed, working, and not blowing the fuse, then add each sling back into the circuit one at a time. This isolates the slings, in the event that you have multiple problems causing the fuse to blow.

Unsolder one end (or remove completely) and test as shown:
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/2.html

Is that resistor in series with that cap just a kludge for a lower value cap that wasn't available? Most debounce caps are like .047uf, not 1uf+ electrolytic caps... If that even is a debounce cap. All I know is that my pinbot doesn't use them at all. Not sure if F-14 needed to for whatever reason, I haven't check the schematics.

it would be shown in the switch matrix diagram

Diode is 1n4004 or 1n4007. You can remove the resistor and take your DMM and get the value of it. Cap value is written right on the side of it (uF, Voltage, & polarity). Your new switch stack is missing the switch for the EOS for the pop. I'd recommend reading through Vid's guide to rebuilding pops.

It's not in the schematics.

From the online repair docs:
"Also the the special solenoid playfield switch trigger has a 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and a 22 mfd 100 volt electroylic capacitor (the positive lead connected to the resistor) in parallel to the switch. This is different than CPU controlled coils that use a switch matrix switch to turn them on (switch matrix switches only have a 1N4004 diode on the switch).

That'll work fine, as long as it is clean. Use the business card/card stock method to clean the switch contacts. Never fails.

google "williams system 11 repair guide" - first link

Williams System 11 repair guide:
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm

Williams System 9 - 11 - PinWiki:
www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11

You got it. Except the theory, its not sending a signal- think of it as closing a switch.

The transistor is only used to fire the coil in diagnostic mode. During gameplay the coil is driven directly by the switch (or is driven by another transistor which is biased by the switch to keep high voltage out of the switch circuit and prevent arcing).

No, this is not how the special solenoids work. The coil is still "driven" by the transistor in any case. (acutally the output transistor completes the ground path). The difference is when the microprocessor controls the switch, or a playfield switch tells the transistor to turn on.
s11ssol0.gif

Right, a transistor is used all the time (I said a switch or a transistor).

If it was working and stopped working, I'm going to guess that since you just pulled the CPU board to work on it that you may have a cable issue, make certain the ribbon cables are plugged in and not off by one pin left or right and that none are bent. Sometime reseating those cables may reveal an intermittent.

Another possibility is you might have broken a component on the top side of the mixer section of the CPU while having it on the bench.

Was the sound working completely before executing the repair?

The service switch that latches in the up or down position (Auto-Up/Manual-down) needs to be down to enter the test mode. It looks to me like either the switch is up, or there is something wrong with it - because you are getting Au and Ad (AUdits and ADjustments)

Reviving this thread to hopefully help someone else out..

I currently have an F-14 I am working on for a friend. This one has me baffled.

Brief history of this machine. It was a re-import machine from Australia. It has had some less than stellar done to it.
Flipper would eat the coil if right flipper button was held. EOS switch gapped correctly.. Etc. Looked at it after it ate the second coil replacement and found it was wired totally wrong. Rewired it correctly, now works perfectly. And it goes on..

So now that you have an idea what I am up against, you will get the picture and understand what I am up against....

Now to the problem at hand.. The Pop Bumper. The coil was replaced somewhere along the line and is dead. Below is a list of what I have done so far.

Pulled coil and removed diode noting direction of diode and what side wires were connected.
Coil Ohms out with same resistance as new coil of same number out of my stock of new parts.
Installed new diode same direction as diode I removed.
Fixed solenoid driver feed wire that was cut off at connector by someone.
Removed TIP121 that was installed in Q69 and installed new TIP122
Removed pre=driver Q68 Transistor and installed new replacement.
Removed 7402N and installed replacement.
Reconnected as I removed it per pictures.
Adjusted switches so trigger and EOS switch were working correctly.
Tested and transistor TIP122 Q69 ate itself and overheated.
Replaced TIP122 in Q69
Figured out coil was wired wrong before I got it to fix.
Flipped wires to coil so power feed side was on side with line of diode. (I should have noticed this sooner.. My bad!)
Tested coil.
Coil fired 2 times correctly then TIP 122 at Q69 overheated and ate itself again.

I cannot figure this one out. It has me baffled!

What am I missing? What could be cooking that transistor in only 2 quick fires of it?

Thanks in advance to any assistance!!!!

87XR

Test ZR-5 for a short.

I will definitely check ZR-5 for a short.

Just curious though.. Does that coil have a relay snubber board somewhere? I won't be working on it again until tomorrow.. But if I recall correctly, the driver side of that coil seems to go straight to the TIP122 instead of through a snubber like the other Solid State driven coils.

If it doesn't have a snubber, I think I am going to wire one in anyway to ease stress on that transistor.

No not for this coil, not really needed. What helps is when you replace the TIP to use a TIP 102 its 60% stronger. You can also fuse the coil at 1.5 amp SB and it will burn before the 8 amp TIP 102.

I did that to my F-14 a long time ago. It makes the coil
react slower, I had dubbed a 24-900 at 50 volts to the
pop to give more action. I later found that dubbing
a tip36c circuit under the playfield was better.

Exactly and with a single pop it is already crappy enough as it is.

Yes this is the best way to make some improvement. You can add a high current driver board from a later machine also.