(Topic ID: 149706)

F-14 jet bumper, left sling, and right sling do not work

By Starman

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 31 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#10 8 years ago

You could have got the sling switch stuck closed when you put on new rubbers, make sure there's a gap on upper and lower switch.

#15 8 years ago
Quoted from boris_37:

Correct me if i'm wrong Grumpy, but if the driver transistor is firing, the transistors are not the problem, right?

Maybe, maybe not. If a coil is locked on the TIP is either shorted or something (predriver, resistor, nor gate or pia) is turning it on, which will ruin the TIP, predriver, coil and diode in a short amount of time.

#17 8 years ago

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/tutorials/120-electronics-tutorial-transistors

Nice article Terry, a must read for most people on pinsides. Nice job.

#20 8 years ago
Quoted from Starman:

but I think that might be due to cooking the coil before the fuse blew.

Try replacing the coil sleeve with a new one, if it comes out the coil should be fine.

Now I just need to figure out why my topper is blowing another fuse

Check for shorts on the light sockets.

#23 8 years ago
Quoted from Starman:

But all that happens is the middle light vibrates.

Also if someone puts the wrong (too long) screw in it keeps the reflector from spinning.

#27 8 years ago
Quoted from Starman:

I was hoping to get a red and blue LED to match.

I will check the voltage when I get home, but I think its AC voltage not DC. If its AC voltage, then 28 volt flashers wont work. I have been thinking about doing this for a while but just haven't got around to it yet. If it is AC then a bridge rectifier and a dropping resistor will allow us to use 12 volt flasher and save money and have colored leds too.

#28 8 years ago

As I expected 30 volts AC, so full wave bridge rectifier and you have 42 volts DC. Just need to know how much current the leds draw so I can calulate for the droping resistor.

#30 8 years ago
Quoted from Starman:

Hey Grumpy,
any advise on why one of the lights for the blue arrows is out? The wire looks good, tried a different bulb and socket.

Are they black twist out sockets, if yes then pull out the green board and reflow the pins and trace out circuit until you find the right diode for that bulb and check it with a DMM. Replace it if its open. Lastly if there divots in the solder trace where the bulb locks onto, then reflow these also.

Quoted from Starman:I think that might be a little out of my league. Might just have to settle for normal lights.

If I do this I will show you how to do it yourself.

#31 8 years ago
Quoted from Starman:

I think that might be a little out of my league. Might just have to settle for normal lights.

This turned out to be real easy. All 3 lamps are in parallel, so the first thing you need to do is check that all 3 sockets are wired the same. Mine were, white was ground and white/blue was positive. At the molex plug you will have one side with two yellows and and the white and the white/blue. The other side of the connector has only the white and the white/blue. Use the side of the connector with the yellow wires. Now a couple inches away from the connector cut the white and the white/blue wires and you need to install a bridge rectifier part# KBP204. The bridge has 4 leads, pos, neg and 2 AC. The wires coming from the lamps need to go on the positive and negative lead of the bridge. Which ever color was on the center lug of the lamp socket is the positive. The two short wires coming from the molex connector go to the AC leads on the bridge. The last thing you have to do is add a 5 to 10 ohm 5 watt droping resistor in series with the bulbs to bring down the voltage to 12 volts. Install this resistor on either the positive or the negative wire going to the lamps. I used color matching Comet 13 led 5050 tower flash bulbs and they look nice.

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