Hello, pinsiders. I'm still relatively new to the world of pinball, but am loving it and living it, and trying to fit into this community.
A technical question, for any of you skilled individuals. I feel its a relatively simple fix, but it seems the more I try, the worse things get.
I recently acquired an F-14 Tomcat, which is quite a fun, fast paced game, but have only been able to safely play it for about two games.
I fried the upper left flipper solenoid after setting it up in the game room, and had played with three flippers for a while.
after replacing the FL-11722 and a new flipper bushing (original was broken), I would notice a strong humming/buzzing sound from the upper left flipper. It was beginning to cook pretty hard again.
After looking closely at the wiring diagrams in the schematics manual, (which did not have a wiring drawing for the upper flippers), it seemed the left side flippers had the blue wires reversed. After switching the blue wires to what looked like the correct position, the flipper board fuse would blow.
Now that I have switched everything back to where it was, the fuse still blows--instantly, but only when I hit the left flipper button.

I have flipper capacitors, EOS switches, and two new FL 11722 solenoids on the way, but truly am baffled by the wiring issue.

It appears that all the flipper solenoids were replaced at least once, rather a while ago.
Would anyone be willing to send me an image of what the wiring looks like connecting the flippers, switches, and capacitors for all four of the flippers?

I know I did not acquire a lemon--the fellow who had the machine in his possession takes great care of his machines--its just time for the gremlins to come out in the machine, I guess.

Thanks, Pinside!

Lloyd and Terry,
Thanks so much for your assistance. I'm working on a Laser Ball now, but will follow the advice when I get home.
I'll let you know how everything turns out!

Thanks also, Rob. My EOS was opening just fine, so I'm replacing the switch, as I believe it may be compromised internally where it fastens to the mounting bracket; however, the switch looks quite clean.
My guess, and correct me if I'm wrong, is mostly a capacitor issue; but my guesses are failing me on this fix.

I started having "Tilt" trouble as well, tilting out of the blue, despite all tilt sensor wiring has been cut carefully. Hopefully not a bad little transistor, but I do not know what to think about that.

Special thanks, vid1900 for jumping in. And no, I cannot get the machine to un-tilt when using both flippers.
Looks like all the wiring should be spot-on. If anything was wrong with the wiring, it was one blue wire to the center lug going to the short side of the leaf switch. Not sure if that is a large compromise, but the wiring seems correct.

However, I am running into conflicting information in the manual pertaining to the orientation of the diodes, and where the wires connect. I assume it is more important to follow the diagram for wiring to connect to the solenoid which vid1900 and terryb have giving, rather than have the diode bar face the consistent direction. The right side looks consistent to the diagram, and consistent to the information I am receiving from everyone here on Pinside who has very graciously jumped in to assist.
The left side has wiring (bright blue wires connecting solenoid to switch/from switch) connected to the top lug (two wire windings) and middle lug (thick wire winding) in the manual. I do not have the machine wired this way.
I have returned the wiring to where it was when I received the machine, which is consistent to vid1900 and terryb's description.

I have a Fluke flow-meter, and the Ohms all read very consistently for each diode on every flipper solenoid.

The right side works beautifully.

The left side, when I activate the upper flipper using the flipper button contact, fires, EOS opens, but the solenoid hums greatly, and heats up very quickly.
When I activate the lower flipper by itself, it does not engage at all, and the whole machine makes a brief loud hum, while the back-glass lights dim. The second time I tried this, there was a small flash at the center lug next to the lower diode on the lower flipper unit.

All flippers, when reading VDC of the solenoids while in play mode, read 74.6 at every lug. If anyone has any final thoughts before I call in a specialist, or some final test I should try, please let me know; and thanks again for all your thoughts and expertise.

Thanks for very clearly illustrating what I should do. Unfortunately, I am still having the same trouble.
No dice.
Looks like its time for a specialist.
Thanks again, gang! I'll let you know what's up.

I have replaced the caps, switches, diodes, and also have another Fl-11722, but now it looks like I may need an FL-11630 as well.
vid1900 made a perfectly clear description of the wiring, which is extremely helpful, but the flipper fuse will continue to blow. Right side is fine. Lower left still does not want to fire, upper left heats up just sitting.
Does this mean I have a short? Or is worrying wrong with the board?

DAIGNOSIS:

Diodes, like everyone said.

The older diodes I swapped were also bad, and installed poorly. When the diodes were cut, everything fired, and needed good diodes.

The overheating was caused by the switch not registering properly because of a terribly worn plunger link.
All links replaced, four new diodes on the left solenoids.

Thanks,
vid1900
Borygard
terryb
Lloyd
wayout440
kporter946286

for your assisstence and support!